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which, in round numbers, is 36 years, 267 days, 15 hours, and change.

Good thing I started downloading the page just before the Apollo 11 moon landing, otherwise I'd still be waiting.

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come on now .. it might be a nice toy ..

But everyone needs a robot that can play socer not bowling as that is for Old ladies.

http://www.gideontech.com/content/articles/316/1

even though it doesn't do as much. It is a far more intertaining.

Where do I get a 250-300 watt powersupply with 12 SATA power connectors?

The PC power supply will give you the wattage/current you need to operate most if not all your DC devices. You will need to wire the power supply so that it will stay on without being hooked up to a motherboard. For ATX p/s' here is an article on how to do it.

That will give you +/- 5 VDC and +/- 12 VDC. To get the 9 VDC used by many devices you need to add some circuitry. Basically you want to use a voltage regulator to reduce the +12 VDC to 9 VDC. This can be done with as few as 1 part but adding a few more for safety is recommended. Here is a quick primer on the LM78XX series voltage regulators (your looking for a 7809, like this) .

Regardless of what some posters say this does not have to be a big ugly noisy box. You will need some sort of case with ventilation for the ATX p/s and additional circuit. The fan in the ATX p/s should be enough to cool both the ATX p/s and the additional voltage regulators. If you use a bypass transistor to increase the current output of your voltage regulator or if you run the voltage regulator close to the max current you should attach them to a heat sink.

Also, from places like Digikey (or Jayco in AU) you can by barrel connectors (like the wallwarts have) to hook up so that you can plug/unplug your low voltage cables from your spiffy new box.

Overall this is a great first project to try so hop to it. Just make sure to post all the pictures and description of your project so we can /. your server. :-)

The above is not intended as a step by step howto instruction. It is intended as a starting point to research the correct way to construct your project. Tread carefully. You can also find lots of electronics sites that probably have the circuits you want and you can post to sci.electronics for help.

Merlin.

Good advice.

When I started to switch to digital photagraphy (still), I started by buying a fairly cheap 2040 olympus. When I had had it about a year, I knew what I really wanted in a digital camera and eps. what I didn't want.

Anyway, it's like sex in a relationship. If is works it's only 10% of the relationship, but if it doesn't work it suddenly become really important.

Buy any old camera the works and is easy to operate. If you spend 300$ now and make a short film and get a hell of a lot of experience, you can easily save a ton of money later.

Okay, the 300$ camera will not look as impressive as a 10.000$ camera, but if that's what you are going for maybe you could try case modding it ;-).

Ok, so it's a clock... It doesn't look that great, that paint he used is going to come off easily, the screws should have been painted over so they don't stick out like sore thumbs and the holes to set the clock look a little shoddy.
There's an excellent article on vinyl dyes on that site though, you should all check it out if you're into modding... Supposedly it works much better than paint on plastic. I'll be getting some blue dye and doing my monitors, keyboard and mouse soon. Check it out: http://www.gideontech.com/guides/vinyldye/

Acctually, this could have been done simpler and a lot nicer with a LCD. With an lcd you can have it display whatever you want for around $25. (Example)

While I'm far from a material's engineer, (and Karmically down from stopping to feed the trolls on an OT post) there has been much discussion of this both at Icrontic Forums and Gideon Tech Forums

From the general views of young overclockers (myself included) water is really the only way to go, though concepts involving chilled mineral oil have been floating around. If there's no debris on your electronics, you could run them under de-ionized and de-mineralized water, but as that so rarely happens in the real world, it's generally best to just go with good water, in a well tubed system.

Tygon(r) tubing is wonderful stuff, that very rarely kinks, and can sustain many bends before it's strucural integrity is comprimised. Just clamp the tubes down tightly, and I'd be willing to use the system with no more fear that an aircooled desktop. Aircooled laptops scare me more, those things can heat up very quickly, and the airflow in them is low to none.

Mineral Oil just doesn't transfer heat well enough to be practical, and water runs the risk of shorting things out. What we need is non-viscous non-conductive Arctic Silver! : )

- Jones