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Making Casings for Prototype Electronic Devices?

kiddailey asks: "I'm working on a project for self-enrichment that involves creating a working prototype of an electronic device. I've made a model of the basic shape of the device out of Sculpey (tm) and want to use it as a mold to make the actual plastic housing that I can then insert the electronics into. Has anyone done something like this before? Is there any way to achieve this without a significant R&D buget?"

22 comments

  1. Depends how small it is by Yarn · · Score: 4, Informative

    I generally use wood, light, strong, cheap, but labour intensive to shape. And flammable :)

    --
    -Yarn - Rio Karma: Excellent
  2. You are asking about material science by forkspoon · · Score: 1, Informative

    You are discussing the job of people who practice materials science. Materials scientists study a lot of chemistry and some physics and also learn a lot about shaping solids. Other areas of interest are molecular structures of certain materials and manipulating various structures tiny scales either chemically or mechanically to produce the indented material or structure.

    Try finding a machinist or a materials science firm that does designs for and implements commercial plastic or metal housings for consumer products. These firms are few and far between, and most material scientists work directly for companies that mass produce products, but you should be able to find someone to help you. The best bet for you would be to come up with a detailed design for the housing and hire a firm to produce prototypes for you according to the design. The shaping of plastic and metals is not something you can really do in your home, unless you are a materials scientist or you have a great deal of knowledge and experience with such things.

    Thanks,

    Travis
    forkspoon@hotmail.com

  3. 3d printing? by Bazzargh · · Score: 4, Interesting

    You could send your design as a cad file to Toybuilders and they'll 3d print you one.

    However as you've already made your model you'll want it scanned. There are companies that will do this for you too - though they dont quote prices like Toybuilders do, so I guess it'll be expensive.

    I noticed from Neco's page that a Rapid Prototyping and Manufacturing exhibition is taking place in Cincinatti on Tuesday (29th April) until May 2. If you get the list of exhibitors I am sure someone will be able to help.

    Cheers,
    Baz

  4. sculpey/fimo clay by digitalmuse · · Score: 0, Redundant

    well, if you're really going for a simple/lo-tek/ghetto solution, check out sculpey polymer modeling compound. It's easy to find, simple to work with, non-toxic, and once you bake it, you're all set. The only immediate draw-backs are the fact that you're going to have to pre-form at least a starting hole for any screw-mounts (unless you want to get fancy and use pre-tapped cores...) and your project may end up looking like a bad craft project. Then again, I have to suggest it for simple DIY factor and simplicity. Shape, trim, bake @ 250, done!.
    But then again that's just my 2 cents and I already use it for some craft projects, so YMMV. I do have to agree that there are some nice 'professional' resources that are now available to hobbyists with the expansion of 3-D printing and virtualization for one-offs and short-run, but for ~$2 an ounce, you can't beat sculpey for a fast and dirty way to mock a case. A friend of mine did a replacement faceplate for his old Nokia and was offered $60 for it. go figure...

    --
    "If I wanted your input on my pet project, I'd stick my hand up your ass and use you like a sock-puppet." - Muse
    1. Re:sculpey/fimo clay by Guspaz · · Score: 0

      He's already using Sculpey for his models. Read the article better next time.

    2. Re:sculpey/fimo clay by Usquebaugh · · Score: 1, Flamebait

      RTFQ he's already using sculpey, he wants something better.

  5. Moldmaking.. by RapaNui · · Score: 3, Informative

    You could always use that as a 'plug' (male model) from which to make a female mold (out of glassfibre or plaster).
    You can then make a thin shell casing from the female mold, in glassfibre or carbon (looks _very_ cool).

    Hydrocal is a hard plaster/cement type compound that works _really_ well for short run molds, or for one-off parts, generic plaster works well. If the shape is complex, eg. has undercuts, then you'll need to make the mold from silicone. Check out Special Effect Supply, they seem to stock a lot of the stuff.

    Once you have the mold, you can then lay up a part using polyester (Yuck!) or epoxy resin and glass, carbon or kevlar fabric. Glass fabrics are now also available in colors (I've seen red, silver and blue) if you don't want to paint the final part. Another option is to cast the part using a polyurethane resin, (try ProCast
    )
    You will probably have to make a multi-part mold in order to define a wall thickness, though.

    Maybe check out FibreGlast for some ideas.

    There are _much_ more elegant ways to do this (eg. CNC machining), but molded glass or polyurethane is probably about the easiest / cheapest method of prototyping this sort of thing. With a bit of effort, you can get _really_ professional looking results.

    1. Re:Moldmaking.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      using polyester (Yuck!) or epoxy resin and glass

      Could you please elaborate on your "Yuck" remark. I'd be interested in your comparison of polyster to epoxy resin. I've used polyester resin in a project to repair a rusted out floor of an automobile. The results were very nice. I realize that theoretically epoxy resin bonds better to wood and metal, and that one should never use polyester resin in boat construction. But epoxy resin is about 5 times more expensive. I used polyester resin because it was cheaper. I was able to get a gallon of polyester resin at Home Depot for about $22.

      Since I've never worked with epoxy resin, I'd really be interested in why it seems preferable to you. The polyester resin has a very strong fume factor, and I would recommend using a painter's respirator to avoid the fumes. It also disolves latex gloves which I found out the hard way ...

    2. Re:Moldmaking.. by RapaNui · · Score: 1

      My 'Yuck' was mainly due to the fact that it's physically nasty to work with - ie. the fume factor, (and the 'goo factor), and sometimes it's curing is somewhat unpredictable (mainly due to going off while you're working with it).
      Epoxy does have somewhat better mechanical properties (if your application demands it), and you can generally tailor the cure to your needs (most epoxies have different hardeners for different tasks). Also you can get epoxies with _very_ low viscosity (almost like water) for tricky jobs.
      Epoxy _is_, however, even nastier than polyester chemically (physiologically), and is _way_ more expensive.

  6. Depends on how crazy by CharlieG · · Score: 2

    It depends on how crazy you want to get. If it's going to metal, try going down to your local machine shop and asking them, OR post a question on Rec.crafts.metalworking

    Even if it needs to be cast, that can be done (esp if you want it done in Al) - you could look up "Backyard Foundry"

    Of course, now we're talking about a REAL geek hobby - Metalworking! Hot metal, dangerious tools, and it takes a brain

    --
    -- 73 de KG2V For the Children - RKBA! "You are what you do when it counts" - the Masso
  7. Limited production runs? by orn · · Score: 1

    How about the same question but with limited production runs? How could you build say 20 to 100 plastic or metal (whatever is cheap) small electronic cases?

    The small time inventor is back.

    Rudy

    --
    1. 2.
    1. Re:Limited production runs? by CharlieG · · Score: 2

      CNC Machining - Perfect - we used to have it done all the time

      Charlie

      --
      -- 73 de KG2V For the Children - RKBA! "You are what you do when it counts" - the Masso
    2. Re:Limited production runs? by NoMoreNicksLeft · · Score: 2

      Well, sheet metal is easy, it's stamped. For about $500 for a decent compressor, and another $200 for a 40 ton hydrraulic press (this is how much pressure, not how much it weighs) you'd have the basic machinery. Small dies would be rather cheap, maybe as little as 5-10 hours work, and $100 raw materials. A die, by the way, fits in the press, and acts like a cookie cutter. It can cut, bend, and stretch metal, even into shapes that you wouldn't think possible.

      I've been wanting to do this for awhile, but even the simplest die still requires a decent machine shop. Harbor Freight Tools does have a cheapy mill (metal cutting/shaping tool) for about $300....

      Plastic pieces require an injection molding maachine. The molds are carved out of aluminum generally, and would be cheap to make. They're chemically treated (anodized), and I've found a local firm that will do it cheaply (about $20 per). Generally, even used injection mold machines are too expensive for the hobbyist ($5000+) but I've heard of people building their own.

      If you'rer serious, but strapped for cash, a dremel and some vises can do alot for simple things. It is only sheet metal, after all, and if you're careful, you can bend it precisely and attractively. Never been able to make them look as slick or mass produced, though.

  8. Check out Lindsay's books by bluGill · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Check out Lindsay books. Make sure you get a dead tree catalog, not all their books are online. They have books on how to do a lot of cool things that you can apply. Glass, sheet metal, poured metal, pottery, Plastic (injection or vacuum) molding. All on a dot it yourself from scraps. Most of their books are from the early 1900's, so they are obsolete compared to modern mythods, but still useful. Note that you would have to be crazy to do some of what they will tell you how to do. It would still be fun to do it though.

    Yahoo has a group of Hobbicast If you are interested in metal casting (my personal interest). I'm sure there are other groups for those interested in other materials.

    Have fun!

  9. Mouldable Plastic by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I purchased a few strips of mouldable plastic. I'll check into the brand information if I can find them. Basicly you heat up the plastic in water, or with a heat gun and it melts, you pour, or mould (depending on the consistancy you want) the plastic into the form you want.

  10. Re:carbon fibre.... by Zurk · · Score: 1

    note that carbon fibre parts are *expensive* and dangerous to work with even though they look nice. always wear a organic respirator and gloves to prevent carbon fibres entering your skin (which they do pretty easily) and the resin from overwhelming you with fumes.
    molds can typically be made for 400 bucks and the part for another 500-600 bucks. fibreglast.com gives all the info including technical brochures anyway.

  11. QuickParts.com by diegoq · · Score: 1

    QuickParts will make a part for you out of various materials. You send them a 3D file (STL) and they send you the part. Pretty cool, really.

    They have an online automatic quote generator for most rapid prototyping. It's a bit pricey, a small half-dollar size part I had quoted was around $150 (+/- $50 depening upon materials, size, complexity, etc..).

    --
    --Tim
    1. Re:QuickParts.com by kiddailey · · Score: 1

      I didn't want to disclose the details of my design to a 3rd party, but it looks like QuickParts may be exactly what I need. Thanks!!

  12. Vacuumforming Plastic: Star Wars armor techniques by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    It's not clear exactly what you are trying to do... Or why existing project containers would not suffice.

    But you might find the techniques involved in building Star-Wars style stormtrooper armor useful... At the very least, it's an interesting read...

  13. Re:Vacuumforming Plastic: Star Wars armor techniqu by kiddailey · · Score: 1

    The reason that existing project containers would not suffice is because my project is an exercise in shape design as it applies to usability.

    Basically, I'm trying to create a working prototype so I can test how usable it really is -- and a lot of that usability depends on the form factor of the device.