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Custom Metal Computer Cases?
Sarreq Teryx asks: "I'm looking to buy a new case for my system, to fit in a particular space (20¼" tall x 11" wide), I've found plenty that fit the height (I personally like the Lian-Li PC-6089A out of that bunch), but all the cases I've seen are either the too-too narrow 7½" to 8¼" wide consumer tower cases (that Lian-Li included), or the super wide 13" to 20" wide server cases (which tend to be on the unbearably ugly side), both of which are the wrong width.Does anyone happen to know if any PC case company makes cases that are ~20" tall x ~10¾" wide, or of any company makes custom cases from the plate metal up? I've never done any metal working, so if I were to make one myself, it'd end up being made of wood, and I don't particularly like that idea."
Make sure you've got plenty of airflow to the back - no fun hooking it up, only to find that all that pressured air behind it makes it rocket out of your nook!
No, seriously, make sure that it doesn't overheat - either a vent back there, a vent above, or airflow in/out of the front/side.
HIV Crosses Species Barrier... into Muppets
HardOCP ran an article about one of those today.
Repeal the DMCA!
How exactly is metal a good material for cases? It is more expensive, it absorbs heat and doesn't let it out having as a result a hot case that kids should keep away, heavier, for some people uglier, and of course, it has that "steven spielberg's" sci-fi feeling on it.
I prefer synthetic cases. Not the ones with that massive white plastics ion them, but those beatifull transparent and painted in all sorts of wild colors.
Of course, supporting synthetics is supporting oil production, is supporting all these latest wars, but it's still nicer that stupid metal.
wow, that would be nice
you would need a hand brake and ofcourse, a nice drill press, and i would also recomend a shear the ones given are mearly examples of what you would need tool wise. you can sometimes get them in an all in one combination.. brake press to bend the metal, shear to do your big straight cuts and a drill press for precision holes.. you would need airplane shears and a few other assorted tools like perhaps a scratch awl and what not..
-- botsex is {grep;touch;strip;unzip;head;mount}
It's hard to think of anything that would be more dangerous than a computer case made of wood.
Maybe a computer case made of gasoline?
My favorite bookstore Has a number of books that will help anyone planning to make their own computer case. Not to mention all the fun science things that can help you do. Get the dead tree catalog, it has many books that are not online.
Then I guess there's no company that makes them approx this size stock then?
Go for some wood spacers on both sides of the narrow case, sand the parts smooth, then paint to match a nice aluminum Lian-Li PC case. Not that hard, and requires only the ability to cut the wood to size, various grits of sandpaper, and either some paintbrushes, or an airbrush (would look better done with an airbrush - you can find cheap ones at hobby shops now).
That is all...
Anyone know of any good vandal resistand metal cases? for school and kiosk levels of torture :)
Slashdot - The one stop shop for procrastination
Alright, at the risk of sounding like an ass:
A CD drive is ~5.75 inches wide... 2 * 5.75 inches = 11.5 inches
Why would anyone build a case almost wide enough for two CD drives but not quite?
I hate to say it, but have you thought "outside the box"? Why not just use a regular case and build a wooden frame to occupy the unused space? As this sounds like it might not have a lot of clear area behind it, what about using the extra space for air return from the back of the case? (Did you think that far ahead) You could build the frame to make it look like the surrouding area was larger, or the case was bigger, either way will work. Seriously folks, I know we're mostly Engineers here, but we can think about the Real World factors a bit.
Kurdt
I'm not anti-social. Just pro-technology.
What I want is a good anti-theft system. I want to keep my computer from being stolen (again). What's the best setup for keeping a setup from getting ripped off (or vandalized, since that's what they did to the ones they couldn't steal).
Get a really large server case, that has a deep (more than a foot) well of none occupied space at the bottom, with no electrics or other servicable items in the area, and then fill with large block of lead. That should pretty much do it.
Regards,
Ryan Pritchard
Fun Extends All Basic Life Expectancies
Your greatest expense with metal working will be in the tools, not the metal itself (ok, metal is more expensive than wood - and don't get me started on retail pricing of thick plate steel - but that is why you get your metal scrap, surplus, or wholesale). If you have tools for woodworking, you probably have the bare minimum of what you need (electric drill and jigsaw). You will need different bits and blades for those (mark the blades with an indelible ink so you know which is which, unless the blade is an "all purpose" - this goes doubly so if you use a fine blade for plastics). You will probably also want to get a drill press, if you don't already have one. Those are the basic tools.
With those tools, you can build quite a lot - if you don't mind bolting/screwing things together. You can also get very creative with JB Weld (that stuff is *very* strong if used properly), if you want. If the metal is very lightweight stuff, soldering with a torch is possible, too (use acid core solder here). Also, look into brazing and alluminum rod soldering (it is like a form of brazing, but it used special rod for alluminum and a stainless steel brush) - both tried and true techniques for quick, easy, and strong metal joining (most bicycles are held together via brazed joints, not welded joints).
After that, you get into "heavier duty" metal work - which also translates into more expense (most generally for the tools). Believe me, when you cut your first piece of plate steel using an oxy-acet torch (look at the running molten slag, feel the heat, smell the burning steel - don't let it hit your feet!) - you won't want to do it any other way. Alright, you don't *need* such a torch, but it is a handy (though expensive) tool. Really, for entry level work here, you need a low-power arc welder, and some kind of cutoff tool.
When you first start looking, you will find there are many types of arc welders, and most of them are pretty expensive. If you have the money, get a 220V AC/DC welder with a nice range setting, and have an electrician wire up an outlet for you with a dedicated breaker. Sometimes, you can make a conversion cord for the AC outlet an electric dryer or water heater is connected to (generally 220V appliances) - you need such a cord or box because the plug on "consumer" 220VAC and "industrial" 220VAC machinery are different. However, you won't be able to run both at the same time.
These welders tend to be expensive (and hiring an electrician to run a line increases this expense) - so if you have to get one, get a good one. I would personally reccommend a Lincoln 225 (the AC/DC type - not AC only - they make both) - it will do everything you are likely to throw at it. It is a rod arc welder (there are wire feed welders, both gas and gasless - but they can be more expensive still - get used to rod, then move to wire later). You will need to get a helmet, chipping hammer, gloves, steel brushes, and a place to work (typically, your driveway or back porch - you may want to invest in some 1/4-1/2 inch piece of plate steel as a surface protector - a 3x3 foot piece should suffice for many things). You will run into a lot of difficulties welding - the biggest one is the rod sticking (this is where DC comes in - DC sticks less). If the rod sticks, wiggle it to break the rod away, or release the "stinger" from the rod to break the circuit. There are a number of other issues (blowing holes, starting the arc, keeping the arc going, running the bead, etc) - so many numerous things I can't describe them all here (maybe I should make a FAQ?). It can be frustrating, but also fun. Never look at the arc directly. Always wear a dark t-shirt when welding (the flash can get under the helmet, and while y
Reason is the Path to God - Anon
Except for the strength issue (don't use balsa...), all of those issues are easily solvable by gluing copper or aluminum foil on the inside of each wood panel, or some sort of wire mesh (window screening will work...)
I would take the nice look of a wood case over a light one any day for my main desktop system. (A LAN party system would be a different story...) With the right wood, a wood case can be MUCH stronger than a metal one.
retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
They will work but you'll need to go to a bit
of trouble to shield it. Either RFI paint or tacking foil onto the wood making sure you have a passable farad cage.
Metal would be easier, using inserts as someone else said and a standard case would be best.
I'd go on a Vegan diet but the delivery time from Vega is too long. --brownkitty
Hate to point out the obvious, but a 6U case is about 19" x 10.5". On its side, that's about the right size to fill this space.
Personally I'd use 6U of space for more than a single box computer, but to each his own.
- J
+ He added an LCD display displaying the CPU & overall temps, and he drilled holes in a line under the switches (1 for each switch) and put in LEDs so he would know which (if any) fans were turned on! I don't know if this might sound a tad advanced for you but either way, lemme tell ya, that was a HELL of a cool case to check out, especially in action!
*fiddles with the switches* Fans go on! *fiddles again* Fans go off! *fiddles some more* Fans go on!...
how is babby formed?
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how is babby formed?
Consider using the narrow case, you'll be computing instead of building much faster.
http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/
This company does custom metal work that is reasonable priced. They have a neat downloadable application for designing your parts too. They can also be helpful with email and telephone support.
They will likely be able to get you a near match to the LiAnn metal and you'll have the ability to have logos' notation and holes added for any switches or widgets you might be thinking about.
Dont forget when designing anything that some one else will build for you, measure once, cut twice... or something like that.
plexiglass, lexan, acrylic? anyway I don't like clear cases, I don't even like windowed cases. I'm just looking for a normal nice looking metal case that will fit into a particular space without any gaps.