"You should check your facts. High pressure/low rolling resistance tires reduce contact patch area by _design_."
There are tires which deliberately drop a stiffer beginning sidewall for a stronger and more flexible tread to adapt to road conditions or lacking tire pressure. They're called run-flat tires.
You could find higher energy densities in gassified lithium (lithium/oxygen, for example.) Doesn't mean you're going to harness that energy to the utmost efficiency.
Not only did I earn high marks in that but I earned perfect scores in basic engines classes in high school in the 90s and was one of the guys to push my high school past 900MPG mark in the SAE supermileage comp. (1130MPG) You can keep on talking with your under-supported education and lack of engine experience.
My face when you can't think of simply letting your foot off the gas (even in manual transmissions, just barely release the clutch, fools!) to let yourself remain at idle yet still be moving.
Hell, I've pulled 50MPG just riding my clutch in stop and go traffic. What's your problem? Don't have a problem? Then don't relate other people's problems to your own.
I haven't paid for fuel for my Volvo in almost 5 years (modify my own fuel with anti-coagulants.) My pal hasn't paid for fuel for his in the TEN years since i installed a greasecar retrofit kit, except for the regular diesel fuel needed to start the car and warm up the greasetank.
"Tires are safe at higher pressures but you get a harsher ride and less traction"
Totally ignoring any potential specifics regarding design and contact surface, are ya?
No wonder you post as AC. You don't know shit.
Harsher rides are almost PURELY dependent upon the suspension and springs/airbags. Not the tires themselves.
Traction is a function of surface area in contact with another surface plus whatever friction-reducing material is present. There are several tires made that will take over-inflation plus bulge out at the bottom as if under-inflated, yet still maintain traction across most any surface.
95 MPG? Please. High schoolers competing in the SAE Supermileage competition get 10x more than that on a regular basis, for about 1/3 the fucking cost, at comparable speeds.
And yet you'll trust a 'professional' auto maker on their MPG ratings.
"Three door models probably do much better than 5 doors models - but don't sell well in the American market because you have to be agile enough to climb into the back seat..."
That's what the third door is for - access to the back seats. Ever driven an extended cab truck before?
That's why you drop the extra 5 grand for a diesel, and add another greasecar tank and retrofit for another couple grand. Then you can run on waste fuels all day long with minimal cost to yourself as long as you're in good with places that dispose of said waste fuels (fast food, Chinese restaurants [these are the best places since most fast food joints caught on via corporate.])
Not even. I've tested so many cars on rainy days with 'aquatread' and supposedly superior anti-slip traction control. I've defeated it every time while it's on.
Memphis is great for testing in adverse weather conditions. I made it a point to test during shit weather just to gauge how well the salesman trusted the vehicle while riding with me.
The white-knuckle grip tell-tales showed me that they don't even believe the bullshit they spout.
We're not talking MPG, we're talking KPL here (kilometers per litre)
Anecdote time to counter your anecdote: With the exception of cars I've modified ('87 Toyota Tercel hatchback, '87 Pontiac Recaro T/A Firebird, '98 Ford Taurus SE) none of them have met their estimated MPG/KPL within 25% margin.
If I replaced the worn-out seals around my car's windows, I could probably drop my aerodynamic drag a good 5% ('98 Ford Taurus, the weather-stripping and window seal strips are sticking outwards, thanks to warping from the hot CA sun.)
That increase in fuel efficiency alone (especially at higher speeds) would more than make up for the $30 in DIY stuff to replace it all by hand.
"How many $20 LED lamps have you bought? How many $10 ones? ALL SHIT."
The $4 GU-10 LED bulbs I bought are fucking top-notch quality.
Don't buy them from crappy places like Home Depot and such, and go direct to the manufacturer, usually in China.
Alibaba and Aliexpress are your friends.
Oh, and it helps to actually KNOW SOMETHING about the technology.
My Samsung LN32A550 uses an S-IPS panel and has zero 'ghosting' or 'burn-in' issues, and I've had it for almost 5 years, now.
Yes, in fact you can and they have, specifically FOR road testing of actual MPG.
And if you made that same error trying to recall some fluorine chemistry, you'd be dead right now.
Think about that.
You talk chemistry, you make damned sure you're right. Otherwise people get hurt.
Saying the person with sulfuric acid vapor burns down his entire esophogeal tract because of a stupid teacher in high school.
"You should check your facts. High pressure/low rolling resistance tires reduce contact patch area by _design_."
There are tires which deliberately drop a stiffer beginning sidewall for a stronger and more flexible tread to adapt to road conditions or lacking tire pressure. They're called run-flat tires.
Yep, though the top speed mandated is only achieved in a straight-way or downhill.
Only by the bonds, not by the molecule itself.
You could find higher energy densities in gassified lithium (lithium/oxygen, for example.) Doesn't mean you're going to harness that energy to the utmost efficiency.
Not only did I earn high marks in that but I earned perfect scores in basic engines classes in high school in the 90s and was one of the guys to push my high school past 900MPG mark in the SAE supermileage comp. (1130MPG) You can keep on talking with your under-supported education and lack of engine experience.
My face when you can't think of simply letting your foot off the gas (even in manual transmissions, just barely release the clutch, fools!) to let yourself remain at idle yet still be moving.
Hell, I've pulled 50MPG just riding my clutch in stop and go traffic. What's your problem? Don't have a problem? Then don't relate other people's problems to your own.
You must've failed your basic 4chan troll classes.
Not surprising, your older UID gives credence to this since when your UID came out 4chan didn't quite fully exist, yet.
And barely worth a shit it was. I've got an old Prelude double the weight that gets better MPG/KPL.
I haven't paid for fuel for my Volvo in almost 5 years (modify my own fuel with anti-coagulants.) My pal hasn't paid for fuel for his in the TEN years since i installed a greasecar retrofit kit, except for the regular diesel fuel needed to start the car and warm up the greasetank.
Even a lead foot can only consume so many MPG/KPL
"Tires are safe at higher pressures but you get a harsher ride and less traction"
Totally ignoring any potential specifics regarding design and contact surface, are ya?
No wonder you post as AC. You don't know shit.
Harsher rides are almost PURELY dependent upon the suspension and springs/airbags. Not the tires themselves.
Traction is a function of surface area in contact with another surface plus whatever friction-reducing material is present. There are several tires made that will take over-inflation plus bulge out at the bottom as if under-inflated, yet still maintain traction across most any surface.
Go back to 4chan where you belong.
That'd be anthrAcite, thank you.
*holds about seventy pounds of the coal carried by the original Memphis Belle.*
No, they don't as they're 7-digit UID holders well past the one million mark.
You can safely assume this ignorant fool is a troll.
And yet another 7-digit fool shows their colors and ignorance of chemistry.
Yes, a REAL Mini, by about 30 kilograms.
Didn't count on my stepbrother having a weight-sensitive lift, did ya? He runs a full-course auto shop, down to inspections for emissions.
95 MPG? Please. High schoolers competing in the SAE Supermileage competition get 10x more than that on a regular basis, for about 1/3 the fucking cost, at comparable speeds.
And yet you'll trust a 'professional' auto maker on their MPG ratings.
Yep, the idiocy of 7-digit UIDs continues on.
"Three door models probably do much better than 5 doors models - but don't sell well in the American market because you have to be agile enough to climb into the back seat..."
That's what the third door is for - access to the back seats. Ever driven an extended cab truck before?
That's why you drop the extra 5 grand for a diesel, and add another greasecar tank and retrofit for another couple grand. Then you can run on waste fuels all day long with minimal cost to yourself as long as you're in good with places that dispose of said waste fuels (fast food, Chinese restaurants [these are the best places since most fast food joints caught on via corporate.])
"Good tires are for wet and dry"
Not even. I've tested so many cars on rainy days with 'aquatread' and supposedly superior anti-slip traction control. I've defeated it every time while it's on.
Memphis is great for testing in adverse weather conditions. I made it a point to test during shit weather just to gauge how well the salesman trusted the vehicle while riding with me.
The white-knuckle grip tell-tales showed me that they don't even believe the bullshit they spout.
Considering I weigh 150 pounds soaking wet, and am American, you're an ignorant lowest-common denominator troll.
We're not talking MPG, we're talking KPL here (kilometers per litre)
Anecdote time to counter your anecdote: With the exception of cars I've modified ('87 Toyota Tercel hatchback, '87 Pontiac Recaro T/A Firebird, '98 Ford Taurus SE) none of them have met their estimated MPG/KPL within 25% margin.
Depends on where it's placed, but yes.
If I replaced the worn-out seals around my car's windows, I could probably drop my aerodynamic drag a good 5% ('98 Ford Taurus, the weather-stripping and window seal strips are sticking outwards, thanks to warping from the hot CA sun.)
That increase in fuel efficiency alone (especially at higher speeds) would more than make up for the $30 in DIY stuff to replace it all by hand.