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I'm not sure, but how big a jukebox do you need? Here are a couple random links... But I guess u gotta shop around :)

CD Server Controller box for an audio CD changer

Ideally, a little PIC MCPU in front of it would take a lot of the programming away from what a host computer needs to do. It's a pity - the slink-e is a neat idea that's been stagnant for 3-4 years. It had potential to be a key home automation piece.

Finally:
And a laptop has both a built in UPS, the USB you need, makes less heat that a full blown MoBo and I bet you could find a powerbook with a dead LCD from somebody. Far less power and less cooling needs than a corrupted^Wconverted desktop mobo

If you just need something that goes beep every once in a while, then don't bother to read this.

I'm one of those people with a PC at the heart of their entertainment system. I use it as to control my sony CD jukeboxes with the nirvis controller. I also use it as an MP3 jukebox and to play DVD's scaled up to high resolution for my HDTV rptv and my front-projector system. I use it to scale standard-defintion tv up to HDTV resolution with dscaler. I use it as a tuner and PVR for HDTV using the MyHD hdtv tuner card. And I also play games on it.

So, if you are like me you probably want the following:

1) External USB2 or firewire based ADC boxes to support input from all the external devices like CD jukes, SACD, DVD-A, satellite tv and a few sp-dif inputs too.

2) External USB2 or firewire based DAC boxes to connect directly to external amplifiers without having an intervening receiver or pre-amp device.

3) Software support for all the consumer audio formats like Dolby Digital, DTS, SACD's DirectStream Digital, DVD-Audio's MLP (Meridian something or another), Dolby Prologic 2, Logic 7, etc.

4) Support for all the gaming sound formats, OpenAL, DirectSound3D, EAX, etc.

5) Open flexible software to tie it all together and to provide a good WAF (wife acceptence factor).

The reason #1 and #2 are outboard boxes is to keep them away from the electrically noisy interior of the PC. The idea here is to create an all-in-one audio device that can replace a high-end multi-thousand dollar pre-amp with a ~$1k PC that may look uglier but is both more functional and much easier upgraded to new functionality as it arrives in the marketplace.

Divices such as the SLink-e (that the inquisitor has) allow pulling the TOC over a Sony S-Link to serial connection. If you own one a Sony multi-changer (or two or three) with several hundred CDs loaded, you should really look into dropping a couple of hundred on one of these. Or build your own. Lots of information starting here

Can I get a sound card with SPDIF input and start ripping thru the digital optical connection? Will this be the same quality as the CDDA data streams?

Every bit of audio present on a CD will be retrieved with a SPDIF connection. Enough quality for ya? ;-)

As for the interface and ease of writing discrete MP3 tracks when the SPDIF stream changes, tagging, etc., well, that's where a SPDIF connection becomes more of a hassle than normal ripping. But that's all really just a software issue -- all the hardware is available. Like the poster, I also have a Slink-e from Nirvis. Great box and it lets you pull approximate TOC info from the CD in a single or multi-disc Sony player (via an S-Link cable) to retrieve CDDB (or equiv) info for tagging or naming. You'll need another connection (S-Link, for example) alongside the SPDIF connection for player/disc/track data.

The Slinke hardware is platform independent, though the software the give away with it is entirely Windows. Search around and you'll see some Linux and Apple support for the Slink-e also...

in Python
someone's project & some links
HA support

By the way, the Slink-e is great for general infrared in/out in addition to controlling Sony (and a few other manufacturers') CDs, MDs, receivers, TVs, etc.

Okay, background, SMTPE, described before, tosses timecode onto the tape (in video blanking interval?). Critical to professional editing.

There are consumer versions of time code. Not as locked down to the frame, but for most purposes, enough.

Professional editing:
2 or more VCRs playing to one recording VCR. (actually in modern times, VCRs are replaced by these computer things - loaded from 1" digital tape for holding the volumes of data that no computer can).

These VCR's (or VTR - the C just came in after reel tapes disappeared) all talk to each other over something that looks serial like. Modern ones may have RS-422 or 232.

Let's now visit consumer land:

Control-S (sony) is simply a wire send of their IR protocol.
This is actually really useful. Same signals as IR means that if you can demodulate the IR. A device called the (slink-e does this, albeit the software is on Windows only last I checked. (cool toy)).

LAN-C/Control-L. Described HERE, and I quote:

Control-L, otherwise known as LANC, stands for Local Application Control. This protocol is used as a pro-sumer edit control protocol on a variety of Sony equipment. Other manufacturers such as Nikon and Canon also use LANC in some of their equipment.

This 2-way communication happens at 9600 baud, and is organised as 8 byte data packets sent every field.

For a good reference on LANC see, with details on the data packet format and various commands - see:
http://home.t-online.de/home/mb.koenig/lanc.htm

There are serial adapters. Or you can do your own and save the money and spend the time.

Check out the Slink-e. It will let you control S-Link, Control-A, Control-S and infrared stuff over an RS-232 port.