In Search Of The Perfect Geek Desk?

FooBard asks: "I am looking for a new computer desk, but I just can't find anything that floats my boat. All the desks I seem to find (and I've been looking hard) are made for the average Joe who wants something that looks like a desk and fits his 15" monitor, or for the business manager that needs some place to hold his computer for the one hour a day he uses it. I need something that's ergonomic and power-user-centric, will facilitate a large (21") monitor and allow me the ability to work for several intense programming hours without hurting. Has anyone found a desk that fits this bill? I can't find one that's seems to be made for the programmer, even if I crank my budget up to $1500. " How timely! I'm in the market for something like this myself.

Comments

Build it

[eyousey]

Just build it.

I got an apartment at my school this year, and thus no longer had a desk supplied. So I took some old PVC pipe that I had lying around and a piece of plywood and several 2x4's and made a deck.

I made the top first. This is what the 2x4's and the sheet of plywood are for. Just cut the plywood to the desired deminsions, mine is about 30in. x 80in., but make it whatever size you want. I made mine long for computer and homework space, and it works great. The thicker the plywood the better. Mine is almost to thin at 1/2 in. If I did it again I would use like 3/4 or 1 in. Then you use the 2x4's around the edge on the underside to make it stronger.

Then you build the PVC pipe legs. Make a PVC frame that fits inside the 2x4s and build your legs down from there. I would suggest that you make sure that you put in bracing, both lateral and diagonal. This helps to prevent rack. If you really want to get technical, you could use pipe of diffenet diameters so that could make it adjustable. When the PVC support frame is built, it should like almost like a table, but without a surface.

Now put your top on and it all should fit together all nice like.

Since (most) plywood is not the smoothest surface, unless you got a vinered (sp?) one, but that stuff is pretty expensive. You need to make it smooth. What I used is stuff that is like 50 coats of varnish. I think that it was called Bahr (pronounced "bear") 50. It can be found at a good home supply center like home depot. Put that on in a two coat process and it dries to be about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick and clear. Besure to follow the directions on the package. If you do it where there are bugs (like I did) then you can use a propane torch and a tooth pick to help to get them out, just need to be delicate.

Once it dries, you have a desk, and the satisfaction that you made it yourself. If you want to paint it, besure to sand the PVC pipe before you put it together, and the 50 stuff should be paintable too, just sand it too.

Hope that helps. I'm sure you could get really elaborate if you wanted too, like mutliple levels that are adjustable and such.

Total cost for me about $100, I think. It was about $50 for the Bahr 50, I think. The plywood and PVC were "borrowed" from mine and my father's unfinished projects. I really have no clue what it all would cost new, maybe like $200, but I'm not sure on that one.

Re:Build it

[technos]

Behr.. Decent stuff if you want it pretty, but any old exterior spar varnish will wear harder. Cheaper too! You could laminate an entire 8x10 sheet of plywood for $10. Painting over it isn't a terribly good idea though. You get 'bubbles' if you use anything but high-VOC enamel, and that is quite pricey and unpleasant smelling. PVC for a frame is a darn good idea. Strong, light, and easily machined. I wouldn't glue the all the corners though. Drill a hole through and secure with a pin and clevis or some plain old nuts and bolts. Easy to disassemble or adjust. Some wavy lock washers on both sides will help keep the bolt or bar seated. PVC can really be made 'adjustable' too. The common sizes are too widely spread to be a tight fit though. You might be able to get away with using filed down converting couplers. Remove the lip from the smaller side of the coupler with a file or Dremel tool, and drill some spaced holes in the small pipe and a single hole through the coupler. I'd almost recommend drilling the coupler oversize and using brass t-bushings set with pipe cement if they are to be adjusted often; PVC is abrasion prone, and those bolt threads are going to work like a file each and every adjustment. Oh, and I'd secure the top down with pipe strap or double-sided hangers. Use small hex-head bolts and countersink the top so that the bolt heads don't present an obstacle. Gravity isn't always reliable!! (Screws are always unreliably removable.) The price? Bells, whistles and nice laminated plywood shouldn't set you back more than $50. PVC and fittings are cheap. No real tools needed, as the lumber yard will prolly be happy to cut the top to size, as will the hardware store be happy to cut your PVC. Just have everything spec'd before you go!!