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Cheap and Easy Heatloss Detection?

Posted by Cliff on from the checking-your-insulation dept.

Monty asks: "I'd like to measure heat loss to find out where to insulate and then find out if that is working. What can be done cheaply? Can I use my Sony's Nightvision and just cover up the IR emitter? Are there cheap but useful infrared cameras? What about plain infrared film? Or how about temperature data loggers? Where's a good place to ask these questions?"

4 of 23 comments (clear)

  1. Different kinds of infared by ka9dgx · · Score: 5, Informative
    The Sony and other CCD based devices do have some sensitivity in the near infared. This means they could (in theory) respond to a very hot source, such as a soldering iron glowing a dull red. (An experiment someone should try). They will NOT, however respond to the longer wavelengths of infared that you're looking for.

    A heat sensor based on thermal radiation can only detect items that are warmer than itself, at a bare minimum, due to the laws of physics. That's why heat imaging cameras are so expensive, they have to cool the sensor down, usually using a Peltier effect junction, or in the case of a Sidewinder missile, a form of gas cooling.

    I hope this all makes sense, and helps answer your question.

    --Mike--

  2. I'm no physicist... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

    ...but I believe you'll find that any IR functionality your video camera might have isn't the right "range". I can't remember which is which ... infra-red can be categorized into "near infrared" and "far infrared". One is a measure of heat (and is hard to detect well enough to form a decent image from), and the other is just the common stuff used in VCR remotes, etc. (and is cheap and common to detect).

  3. Why you can't... by DaoudaW · · Score: 3, Informative

    While looking up info on IR film I came across * Why you can't record heat with IR film, nor with ordinary videocams: IR & heat.

    Apparently anything longer than red is IR, but the film or sensor only goes slightly past visible.

  4. Call your utility, and then guess. by bluGill · · Score: 3, Informative

    Call your local utility. Often at least one of them will have a program where they do an "energy audit" on your house for cheap or free.

    If that doesn't work, attics, windows, walls, floors, in that order.

    Start with the attic, it is normally cheap and easy to add more, though there is a point of diminishign returns. If you have more than 12 inches up there, you are probably just fine.

    Then windows. Low-e windows really make a difference. Unfortunatly low-e windows are expensive. If you need to replace your windows anyway, then get low-e glass. Otherwise window insulator shrink-wrap kits are cheap and work well.

    Walls are harder. I you need to tear off the covering anyway, then add something, other wise it is really hard to do something. A professional can pump foam into walls, but this leaves holes all over the house, so I don't know if I would recomend it. Get a bid and decide if it is worth it. Often walls are best ignored until you build new.

    floors are almost a non-issue. Still an uninsulated floor will get cold. carpet is about all you really need though.