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Do-it-yourself UPS

Giampiero writes "Over at dansdata.com some guy named Dan creates a UPS out of some spare parts. To sum it up, "if you're looking for an industrial-capacity UPS solution, and don't like the prices of the off-the-peg options, it might be easier than you think to roll your own."" Of course you can mentally substitute U.S. 110 volts for Australian 220 volts wherever necessary...

31 of 388 comments (clear)

  1. Be Careful by TibbonZero · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Please, everyone take caution when working with high voltage and moreso, high ampre compenents. We don't want any fried ./ers

    --
    Tibbon
    tibbon.com
    1. Re:Be Careful by GigsVT · · Score: 5, Informative

      People often misunderstand the electrocution hazards presented by electricity. Yes, technically it's the amps that hurt you, but the volts have to be there too.

      I could hold a 1 volt 300000 amp power supply's leads all day and not be hurt. The reason is Ohms law.

      Your body generally has a pretty high resistance. Ohms law states that amps=volts/resistance. Your body is probably between 20,000 and 300,000 ohms, depending on which part you are talking about. Wet or sweaty parts have lower resistance. Higher voltage is more dangerous, because more amps will flow through your body. A 500 volt at 1 amp power supply would probably be lethal, especially if you had wet hands.

      A rule of thumb is that anything above 50 volts should be treated very carefully. This is about the threshold of where you will normally start to conduct possibly dangerous amounts of current. If your hands are sweaty or wet, or you are grounded well for some reason, better cut that down to 30 volts.

      Here's a link

      The parent post is correct though, be careful in any case. Don't try this stuff unless you know what you are doing around electricity.

      --
      I've had enough abrasive sigs. Kittens are cute and fuzzy.
    2. Re:Be Careful by lostchicken · · Score: 3, Informative

      A lesser known danger is that, at least on my APC BackUPS 450, when the system is on backup after one has pulled the power main to the ups (unplugged it), the male plug that would go into the wall is still hot!

      I haven't measured it, but it felt like 110VAC across the prongs to me when I discovered this effect by accident. Be very careful with these things...

      --
      -twb
    3. Re:Be Careful by stienman · · Score: 5, Insightful

      This indicates that something is seriously wrong with your UPS. If it did drive a current or voltage across the input power plugs it'd be powering the building grid which is not only illegal, but those doing so are liable for any damage to the power grid and associated line workers. They take just as much protection for a downed grid as a live one for stupid users who try to power a downed grid, but several die each year because someone's power went out and their generator/UPS/alternative power system was back feeding the utility company when the grid was down. Connecting two mismatched live grids together is fun for the whole family.

      If your UPS is UL listed then there are several regulations which govern just this sort of action. Report the problem to APC, if they don't do anything about it (!!!) then report it to the UL and/or BBB.

      I'm being completely serious. For it to go this bad there is certian to be more wrong with it. I wouldn't trust it to power anything worth more than $10.

      -Adam

    4. Re:Be Careful by Fulcrum+of+Evil · · Score: 3, Informative

      A more paranoid approach is to check wattages

      Cue the story of the navy engineer that killed himself with a muultimeter (runs on a 9V). See, he wanted to measure his internal resistance (which was fairly low), so he held the leads, one in each hand, and punctured his thumbs. Long story short, he discovered that 80mA across the heart = 1 dead Seaman.

      --
      "We returned the General to El Salvador, or maybe Guatemala, it's difficult to tell from 10,000 feet"
  2. Do it yourself UPS? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Funny
    I for one do not have time to truck all my packages individually across the country!

    Oh ... um ... never mind.

  3. Do-it-yourself UPS? It's been done. by TheFrood · · Score: 5, Funny

    I've been doing this for years. I have a big brown truck, and whenever I want to send something to someone else, I just put it in a box, hop in the truck, and drive it over to them. I've even got a little portable touchpad for them to sign on, so it feels like the real thing.

    TheFrood

    --
    If you say "I'll probably get modded down for this..." then I will mod you down.
  4. I don't know... by bravehamster · · Score: 4, Funny
    ..."rolling my own" world-wide shipping conglomerate sounds like a little too much work to save a few bucks on shipping. I'll just stick with Pullman Brown, thank you very much.


    On the other hand, would I get to wear the little shorts? Chicks seem to dig those.

    --
    ---- El diablo esta en mis pantalones! Mire, mire!
  5. Why convert DC to AC to DC? by cyberformer · · Score: 4, Interesting
    A major part of the description on the site (and the cost of a "real" UPS) is how to convert the DC output of a UPS to the AC power required by most PCs.

    Of course, PCs don't actually use AC power: there's a big box in the back that converts all the AC input back to DC. So why not save some money and bypass this, by running the PC straight off the battery (like a laptop)?

    1. Re:Why convert DC to AC to DC? by delta407 · · Score: 3, Informative

      Well, for one, your computer isn't simply running 12V -- you need 5V and in most cases 3V as well. (Possibly others.) Additionally, some components (AMD processors in particular) have very narrow operational ranges in terms of how much juice they get, and battery levels fluctuate.

      Yes, you could work around this without going to AC, but it's easier and more flexible to just provide AC and let the power supply worry about the rest.

    2. Re:Why convert DC to AC to DC? by seanadams.com · · Score: 3, Insightful

      So why not save some money and bypass this, by running the PC straight off the battery (like a laptop)?

      A latop doesn't run "straight off the battery". It has a switching power supply circuit which is not entirely unlike your desktop's AC->DC supply. Most of the stuff in there runs at 3.3V, whereas the battery is 18V or more. So you still need a power supply.

      For desktop PCs, a 110V->5V supply is cheaper than a DC-DC supply.

    3. Re:Why convert DC to AC to DC? by Phosphor3k · · Score: 3, Informative

      ATX Mobo connectors have to supply voltages of +12v, -12v, +5v, -5v and +3.3v. The molex connectors supply +5 and +12.

      As a tip, if you need alot of voltage for a fan, you can splice the -12v going into the mobo, and put the fan between that line and a +5 or +12 to get a potential of 17v or 24v to run your fans off of. My Athlon almost runs at non-nuclear temps using this trick.

    4. Re:Why convert DC to AC to DC? by steveha · · Score: 5, Interesting

      I have, for years, wished for a DC input on the PC's power supply, and a standard for UPSes that would plug in to that DC input.

      Taking DC, converting to AC so the PC power supply is happy, then the power supply converts to DC... it would be nice if it could just be DC all the way.

      The problem is that your monitor, modem, etc. all expect AC power. It's easiest just to make a UPS that provides standard AC power, and plug everything in.

      Someday, I think we will have "smart" plugs. Wall power outlets will not be live by default; they will only serve power when a proper coded request goes in over a smart plug. The device will be able to tell the wall outlet what kind of power it wants, and the outlet will be able to tell the device what kinds of power it can offer. Then little kids will stick butter knives into wall outlets and not get fried; PCs and monitors will ask for +5 and +12 volts DC and get it; and UPSes will be able to feed +5 and +12 volts DC to those PCs and monitors.

      Actually, if you have the complicated smart power system I envision, there will probably be a UPS integral to the system. When your home loses power, the smart power system would broadcast a "power interrupted" signal and devices like your refrigerator and your laser printer will power themselves down; your PC will run for about 5 minutes and then power itself down (unless you are there and override it) and medical devices will run indefinitely. Maybe only the DC devices in your home will be on the UPS by default?

      steveha

      --
      lf(1): it's like ls(1) but sorts filenames by extension, tersely
  6. Basically what I've got for my emergency radio by Beryllium+Sphere(tm) · · Score: 5, Informative

    Coupla caveats:

    Put a "battery isolator", or at least a power diode with a heat sink, between the power supply and the battery. And allow for the fact that it will drop .3 or .7 volts.

    Don't even think about wet cells inside the house. Sulfuric acid belongs out of doors. There's a reason you're allowed to ship the Concorde battery without declaring it hazardous: it won't spill. Further, a non-sealed battery will release hydrogen while it's being recharged. Is your computer room free of all ignition sources?

    Fred KC7YRN

    (I've seen a commercial 500 VA unit for US$40)

    1. Re:Basically what I've got for my emergency radio by morcheeba · · Score: 3, Informative

      I'll second the diode - it's essential!!

      Some power supplies (even some fancy lab power supplies - I've seen people kill them this way) don't have a diode on their outputs, so if you turn off the supply (or, say, the power goes out), then the battery will attempt to put energy into the power supply. If the power supply isn't made for this, it could smoke and/or catch fire. A diode ensures that power only goes *into* the battery. Put the cathode end (with the band, "negative") towards the + side of the battery, with the anode (the other end of the diode) towards the + side of the power supply. Make sure that the diode can handle the current (most diodes drop ~0.7v, so dissappated power=I*E=Charging current * 0.7v)

      Second, I'd be really cautious about putting power supplies in parallel to achieve more current. While this will usually work, the same problem exists that exists: power supplies don't always behave well when connected to another supply. With one diode isolating each power supply and current-limiting supplies, this should work safely, but the voltage regulation may be poor and the supplies may not share equaly - things not of great importance here. The general problem in paralleling output transistors is that, depending on the circuit, increased temperature can lower the resistance of the transistor, which causes more current to flow through it (relative to the other transistors in parallel), which causes more heat, etc... until it blows (or the current limiting of the supply kicks in).

      For another project, I wonder about UPS modding. I've got a UPS that puts out the right amount of power, but the battery is kindof small. It seems that I could replace it with a higher capacity car or motorcycle battery of the same voltage.

  7. Re:Expanding batteries by El_Nofx · · Score: 5, Funny

    When I did tech support for Gateway I got a guy who worked for APC, he had a UPS on his Fridge, his microwave, his TV, his stereo, and his pc but forgot to protect his phone line, Lightning struck by his house and took out his modem, along with his mobo. After he told me all that I laughed so hard he hung up, I wonder what ever happened to him, hehe

    --
    It's not the OS it's the user that sucks. If it's user friendly, you get stupider people. - clinko
  8. UPS maintenance by PD · · Score: 3, Interesting

    These do-it-yourself UPS thingies are going to require maintenance. Car batteries are designed to deliver about 3400 amps directly into the alternator of a car, only during the time that you turn the key. They they trickle charge very slowly off the engine mains.

    By contrast, UPS batteries are designed to discharge at a slower rate, but charge very very quickly to be able to work if the power suddenly cuts out two or more times in a row.

    The problem with using one battery where another is required is that a memory effect can develop. That slow discharge on a car battery can cause it to lose capacity and in as little as 6 months it'll be useless for any power failures over about 5 seconds.

    How much does a car battery cost? about $50. But, you're going to need one every 6 months or so, making a home built UPS actually many times more expensive than one you buy at Comp USA.

    I know it's counter-intuitive, but many things about batteries are.

    1. Re:UPS maintenance by Compuser · · Score: 3, Interesting

      As a physicist I had to design a portable
      experiment. Imagine an industrial table
      full of physics equipment. It drew more power
      than any desktop or small server but needed
      to run for hours. We bought a single AGM sealed
      valve regulated deep cycle battery for $80 and
      it has worked well. It provided power continuosly
      for more than 4 hrs and as far as we can tell
      has not lost much capacity yet (i.e. after a few dozen fairly deep discharge cycles). It has also
      worked for a couple of years now without a hickup.
      So from personal experience, this scheme works
      very well, but a quality setup will run you ~$300.
      Look at boating and RV sites and newsgroups for
      names of good battery manufacturers and compare
      prices. We have nothing but good things to say
      about Concorde's Chairman batteries.

  9. speaking of conversion... by trb · · Score: 3, Informative

    $1.00 AUD = $.56 USD = €.60 EUR

  10. The Remains by peterdaly · · Score: 5, Informative

    Be careful with this stuff. Batteries can be nasty. At my previous job we had a "switch room" which housed out 50,000kva (yes "K"va) UPS. On the wall across from it were huge "grab the handle and yank" circuit breakers...which were covered in battery acid from the previous UPS.

    Now this wasn't your home little ups box, this thing would blend in with three refrigerators side by side, and would run a 500 person electronics factory, and 500 person office (PC's at least) for 8+ hours. That was a kickass battery box.

    Just remember, UPS's can go "BOOM" and I wouldn't want to try my hand at making my own and seeing it for myself. Some things are better left to APC and crue.

    -Pete

  11. Comment removed by account_deleted · · Score: 3, Informative

    Comment removed based on user account deletion

  12. Re:Fixing APC Smart Rack UPS by plover · · Score: 3, Informative
    The author cautions about taking an existing UPS and trying to add more, bigger or extra batteries. The power supply inside is built (cheaply) to deliver only the amount of current required to charge the battery it was designed for, and no more.

    However, you can probably replace the battery in your UPS with a similar model for less than the cost of a new UPS. Either find the manual for your UPS, search for your UPS model on line, or open up your UPS and see if it has any labelling regarding the battery capacity, or (better) a "replace battery with XXXXXX model or equivalent." Find an equivalent on line (thanks, Google!)

    Check with a battery store (most major metropolitan areas will have several.) It may be worth the drive, as batteries are heavy, cost much to ship, and can only be delivered via ground (slowly.) And if you're uncomfortable working with live circuits or very hazardous materials, they'll probably be able to replace it for you for a small fee.

    Finally, PLEASE RECYCLE YOUR OLD BATTERY! In most states, it is illegal to dispose of any lead acid batteries in the garbage or in a landfill. They are filled with corrosive toxic sludge. Please be responsible.

    --
    John
  13. http://auction.apc.com/ by MattRog · · Score: 5, Informative

    Or, you could visit:
    http://auction.apc.com/

    And get refurbished, and sometimes brand-new, warranteed APC power units for pennies on the dollar.

    Two years ago I purchased two 420VA refurbished backups for around $50 each. They're currently protecting my three boxen, one of which I'm on now, and have been flawlessly through brown-outs, sags, surges, etc.

    Typically the refurb'd units are from companies who have agreements with APC to buy many UPSs and return them when the batteries run out. Why? Customers used to return UPSs marked as 'defective' when in fact it was simply a dead battery. So, they tape over the battery bay and simply have the customers return the units with dead batteries and pick up a new one. They replace the battery and sell the ok unit again as refurbished.

    --

    Thanks,
    --
    Matt
  14. Re:Do-it-yourself UPS? It's been done. by Fulcrum+of+Evil · · Score: 5, Funny

    I've even got a little portable touchpad for them to sign on, so it feels like the real thing.

    If you really want it to feel like UPS Ground, shouldn't you kick the box around the back of the truck en route?

    --
    "We returned the General to El Salvador, or maybe Guatemala, it's difficult to tell from 10,000 feet"
  15. Myth. by mindstrm · · Score: 3

    Totaly myth.

    Not possible.

    Even if the resistance was only 1000 ohms, and it was most certainly a great deal higher, he would only have 9 mA, not 80.

    1. Re:Myth. by Uller-RM · · Score: 3, Informative

      Not quite. Your skin's resistance is quite high... but once it pierces your skin (it takes an arc about 400V to do it, but if you stab yourself, tada), inner muscle and soft tissue racks up about 10 ohms an inch. And if applied across the heart, 9mA is enough to trigger fibrillation.

      You don't need to be paranoid when working with lethal voltages... but you do need an ounce of common sense. Work with one hand.

      (Cue web surfing while masturbating joke here - but I'm quite serious.)

  16. Some words of advice on UPSes by NewtonsLaw · · Score: 5, Informative

    I have two UPSes -- I used to have three but one died a horrible death for no apparent reason.

    The smallest unit I have is a 600VA no-name Taiwanese box with two 7A SLAs. It has no fan and, although it's just an SBS, it still runs hot as hell.

    As a result of this hot running, I discovered that the SLAs tend to dry out rather quickly such that you get a much shorter time than you'd expect when the mains power goes off (as I discovered just the other night :-(

    My other box is a Siemens 1KVA full-time UPS with forced ventilation and a bunch of other cool features.

    It's worth noting that even a fan-cooled UPS such as the Siemens can run way too hot -- as I discovered about a year after I installed it.

    Without warning, the UPS started screeming at me with a continuous alarm buzzer. It was still working but it was not at all happy.

    On touching the case I discovered why -- it was too hot to touch.

    I shut things down really quickly and opened up the case to see what was wrong...

    Dust!

    The intake holes in the front panel have a fine wire mesh over them and, since this UPS (like most others) lives on the floor under my desk, enough dust had been sucked into the holes to totally block them.

    So here's a DC-AC inverter busy delivering about 500W of power to several computers and monitors -- but without the benefit of any cooling. No wonder it wasn't happy.

    I blew the filters out with compressed air, checked that the fan was okay and put it back together. It's been working fine for nearly two years since -- albeit that I check and clean the intake meshes every few months now.

    That the Siemens box was smart enough to warn me it was in distress (rather than just failing) shows that nobody ever regretted buying quality.

    So.. rules of thumb for UPSes...

    If it runs hot-- expect the batteries to last just 18 months to 2 years -- and don't wait until the power fails to find out that you should have changed them already.

    If you have a fan-cooled UPS mount it up off the floor or check that the cooling holes are clear at regular intervals.

  17. And the idea scales well! by zerofoo · · Score: 3, Informative

    I did some network consulting at a lawfirm that had offices in a high-rise tower. They couldn't get the EPA permits granted for a diesel powered backup generator, so they built a "UPS" room.

    The inverter came from these guys here.

    They hooked up half a room full of 12 volt lead-acid batteries to charging systems and inverters and put the whole system under a vent hood. We never did figure out exactly how much runtime their server room had.

    -ted

  18. Re:Awesome! by BLAG-blast · · Score: 3, Informative
    Even though you specifically mention that you provide ventilation, I bet you will still get people yapping at you that your setup is dangerous because of the hydrogen :-)

    To a large extent the danger of explosion can be reduced by using hydrogen catalyst battery caps on all cells of the lead acid battery. These can be purchased from Hydrocap, 975 N.W. 95 Street, Miami Florida, 33150,(305)696-2504.

    --
    M0571y H@rml355.
  19. Re:Fixing APC Smart Rack UPS by ncc74656 · · Score: 3, Informative
    If you got it for cheap, used, its batteries are probably shot. Like most laptops, replacing the batteries on an older UPS would often be more expensive than simply replacing the UPS.

    UPS batteries tend not to be as expensive as notebook batteries...there aren't as many different varieties, so they tend to be somewhat standardized. I recently replaced the two 12V 7Ah batteries in a UPS at home. That UPS cost about $170 when I bought it. New batteries were about $40 for two. Given that the UPS is a 900VA unit that can keep a dual-P!!! server running for about half an hour, $40 isn't a bad deal to keep it running.

    --
    20 January 2017: the End of an Error.
  20. beowulf cluster batteries? by thogard · · Score: 3, Informative

    At work we bought a 3kva upsonic ups. Its good for about 10 minutes. That just would not do so we hooked up 16 deep cycle batteries to the thing. Now it will run for about 4 hours on a full load and a very long time when we start pulling things offline. It takes 4 days to recharge the thing.

    We got a UPS because it has a good inverter and auto switching and a built in charger. An inverter would have cost more. I've got a snmp card so I can measure different things.

    You have to be careful about these things beause you get a large voltage and massive amounts of current. Our system has two 96 volt banks and good for at least 300 amps. That can kill and it can also cause batteries to explode. Treat these with the respect they deserve. We have a small circut that goes between each battery that has 4 led's that let us know if any one of the batteries go bad. Its also hooked to a monitor system so we can get real time alarms if anything goes bad.