Building a Laptop Trickle Charger?
chimpo13 asks: "In 18 months, I'm planning on riding around the world on a 1966 Ducati 250 single. I have some problems, but there's one that can hopefully be answered on Slashdot. I think my Powerbook G3 will take the vibration of the bike, but I'm trying to find out how to trickle charge the laptop battery on my bike. It's a 6 volt bike that will be converted to a 12 volt. Has anyone built a trickle charger for a laptop?"
Trickle charge to your laptop, huh? I want to do this too. Computer? No, I don't need a computer.
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Why not just hook an inverter up if you are going to convert it to 12 volts?
If it ain't a Model M, it's a piece of crap.
I don't know if your notebook can be easily connected to trickle charge. Most laptops' DC in are designed for a full-current connection, and the charging circuitry won't function properly with a less-than-optimal supply.
There are two possibilities I can see; one is, to remove your battery (or get a spare) and trickle-charge it outside of the laptop; or to trickle-charge an external battery and use that as a voltage input. I recommend the latter; I don't know what the Powerbook's battery terminals are like, but I suspect it'd be inconvenient to hook up to.
this guy built one and it seems rather trivial.
I hit it on the first link of a yahoo search. So, for that, you get the big middle-finger-in-the-face award.
1. In 18 months time handhelds will be even more capable than they are now, not to mention more energy effecient and easier to get online. Plus becuase they use different power schemes, you have more options for recharging the units via the sun, or your bike, etc... Plus, it makes sense to bring a cell phone. A blown tire, or God forbid, a wipe out, could leave you in a tight spot if you have no way to contact somebody. Why not combine your computer and your cell phone in a handheld? NO there are not really great examples of these devices right now, but there WILL be in 18 months!
2. I assume your trip is similar to backpacking in which we think about every ounce as basically "costing" us carrying energy and the ability to bring something. In this case, taking a computer like a Powerbook G3 (like the Walstreet, Pismo, or Lombard) is pretty expensive weight-wise, if HAVE to take a computer, bring a 12" iBook.
3. If you choose to go the PDA route, think about using the weight you save to bring a really nice SLR digital camera, instead of a little canon Elph or something... Also, GPS would be nice, but by that time i imagine it will be in the PDA that i describe above.
Mind you, i am putting a bit of faith in the steady progression of handheld devices, but i don't think that is unreasonable given the inevetiable convergence of cell phones and PDA's...
Now a question for you....
How did you get off work for that long!!!?!?!?!?!??!
Good luck!
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Circumnavigation is best done with a ship. Do you plan on rafting the Ducati over the oceans, or driving on the sea floor?
Oh...and your G3 will be dead in 18 months. And if the vibration doesn't kill it, nothing will. And...just get an inverter and run 12volts to the saddlebag. You don't have to leave it plugged in all the time.
...
..if that bike runs it's electrical on a magneto I can guarantee you don't want to hook it directly up. Spike city. Your best bet is to get a 12 VDC car adapter, charge the batts separate,out of the laptop somehow, or let them recharge from your bike batt when it's stopped. Don't try to run the laptop with the motor running in other words. You can also get a flexible solar PV panel you can strap on top of your gear, so it will get some juice while you are driving and stopped. Unisolar makes them, different sizes, you can google for them, easy to find. I have two of them, work great! We have those for our backpacks here, to recharge small batts, so I guess a laptop batt isn't much different, just need to make sure you watch them, the voltage is unregulated, brighter sun, higher voltage. To get around that you can use a "charge controller" thing. Very large batts like car batteries don't need it, but I am just not sure about smaller drycells, although I've done it, I haven't done it a *lot* like for the time lengths you are suggesting, I just know it's possible. Might be a good idea to install dual batteries for the bike itself, so one can be recharging the laptop at night while camping say, leaving one for running the bike in the morning, switch them around or re-attach in parallel before you take off for that day's ride in the morning. I don't know if that bike is kick start only or electric or both, but you need some juice to start it either way as far as I know.
Besides that, NEAT TRIP MAN! Sounds like lotsa fun!
You say that you are going on a world tour on your bike. This is Slashdot, anything mentioned here must have a website associated with it. So where is your website and photos of your bike?
There are probably 6v to 120vAC power inverters which should do the job just fine, and will be the easiest and fastest way to go. Just plug your power adaptor into it and then into the laptop and you're done.
I suspect they are rather expensive though.
The other alternative is to make an adaptor that goes directly from the battery to the powerbook. Since you didn't give any specs on the power requirements of the laptop you're talking about (and yes, the different powerbooks and ibooks have different power adaptors) then I can only give some general suggestions.
Unless you are an EE (or aspiring to be one) then don't get involved with switching regulator design and go with the option above. If you must, then go to National Semiconductor, Linear Technology or Maxim and look at their parametric guides to the power regulators. What you need is a switching boost regulator. If you are exceptionally lucky, you'll find just the part you need with the exact application note for input voltage, output voltage, and supply current. I doubt it though. Then you'll need to buy the parts and assemble it. Getting all those tiny surface mount parts on a bread board is only half the fun, though you can still get many parts in through hole.
Of course, neither of the above two methods result in a 'trickle' charge. It'll still suck power from your bike while charging, which leaves the last option:
Charging the battery directly. Just don't. If you don't know enough that you must ask slashdot (of all the places...? Why not sci.electronics.design or something? Egad...) Sorry, uh... Yeah, like I said, if you think the best place to find out is slashdot, then you don't know nearly enough to properly charge your battery directly without damaging it. Plus you still have the problems of building a step up switching regulator on top of the charger, since the battery will need a higher voltage than your 6v motorcycle cell.
However, I will give you a general overview: Battery charging is essentially a current (not voltage) operation. You force a certian amount of current in for a period of time, and the battery releases some as heat and stores the rest. Lithium Ion batteries are very finicky when it comes to charging. You will reduce your batteries capacity by 10% or more each time you charge it incorrectly. If a battery costs you $100, then it's worth doing it right, and in your case I think the only 'right' way is to use an inverter and the laptop's internal charger. Furthermore, Lithium Ion batteries do not like being trickle charged. When done properly it doesn't hurt them, but it doesn't give them a good full charge, either. Lastly, LiIon batteries are well known for their inability to take many charges. Early cells couldn't handle more than 500 charge cycles without losing most of their useful capacity. State of the art cells now don't go over 800. Trickle charging excacerbates this issue.
If you can get NiMH batteries for your laptop then I'd say you have a good chance, since you can go to your local hobby shop can get a charger from them, but they still take 12v so we're back to square one. If your LiIon is only 10.8v then you can get LiIon chargers from the model airplace community, but those are also usually 12v or 120vAC.
So, in closing, I'm still strongly advocating usage of a regular inverter with the laptop's own power brick.
Good luck on your trip!
-Adam
Yet another reason I loathe Apple (not the products, the company): they don't have power specifications on their website about the laptops. The have the input specs to the power brick, but not its output or the laptops input and current requirements, nevermind the battery V and I. I know they have to dumb things down for the average user, but at least put some real technical specs on the technical specs page instead of the fluff they currently have there.
When I do my motorcycle touring, I usually use the credit-card-camping technique (restraunts and motels). Motels provide a simple place to plug in the laptop overnight, and even in a restraunt you can get an hour or so of charging time while you eat.
I get the impression that you will be roughing it more than I do. But if you aren't using the laptop much, you won't need much charging time. So you may be able to get away with finding somewhere to plug it in every few days, and not worry about overloading your bike's electrical.
Which brings me to my second point. If you are going to install any extra electrical on your bike, I suggest you talk to your mechanic about replacing your bike's rectifier with a stronger one. I don't know how good or bad your bike's electrical system is, but I do know that on my bike, adding any electrical load (including extra-bright lights) will cause the rectifier to burn out after a few months use.
I hate it when I make a joke and I get modded "+5 insightful". Mod the stupid comments "funny", not "insightful", pleas
Ask Greg Frazier. He writes many stories for Rider magazine on circumnavigations via motorcycle. I believe he was wired with laptop for his latest jaunt.
As far as charging, I'd look into some of the solar rechargers. Don't think a vintage Ducati's charging system could keep up.
I found this address with a quick google search: gregfrazier@yahoo.com
Jesus was all right but his disciples were thick and ordinary. -John Lennon
... It's probably bad karma to reply to my own post, but what the heck!
I used the word "rectifier" without much of an explaination of what it is. This is mostly because I'm not an EE, and I don't know in great details what it does. In general terms, however, it's part of the system that takes the power from your alternator, and smoothes, polishes, and munges it into a form that's suitable for charging your bike's battery and powering your bike's electrical system. It normally generates heat (perhaps that's how it gets rid of excess energy?), which is why it has a heatsink attached to it. If you increase the bike's power usage, youu increase the amount of power going through it, which increases the heat. Which, as I said before, causes it to burn out and stop working after a few months of over-use.
When it stops working, you don't get charging power to your battery. Which means that after an hour or so, your battery is dead, and so is the bike.
Is there someone out there with some specific info about what you need to do if you want to safely increase the current load on your bike? Like "replace your AB-240 model thingy with a newer CD-999 model thingy ($22.96 at Radio Shack)"?
If not, maybe you can find a discussion list dedicated to your bike model, and there should be someone there who can tell you how to safely add electrical load to your bike without long-term damage.
I hate it when I make a joke and I get modded "+5 insightful". Mod the stupid comments "funny", not "insightful", pleas
I know it isn't specifically what you asked for, but you can buy a:
Solar powered 12V trickle charger (about $40) to run into the bike's battery, then get a auto/air adapter for the powerbook($80), and a lighter/accessory outlet (about $5, with cable at Radio Shack or your local auto parts store) if you need one. This way, the alternator is feeing the charging usually, and the solar panel is 'topping off' the bike's battery, whether or not the bike is running -- handy to have for a trip around the world, even without the laptop, I'd imagine.
Have you considered hooking a solar panel up to the laptop for charging and cutting the bike out of the equation completely? Not as reliable, and doesn't solve the 'I ran out of juice at night' problem, but worth a thought as you're undoubtedly going to be putting massive stress on the bike's battery and alternator. Googling for "laptop solar cell" will bring dependable results.
Best of luck, sounds fun.
Lind Electronics sells adapters for a variety of laptops. Check the "Auto Air Adapters" section.
I've been installing Lind power supplies for the last 3 years to power mobile-mounted, Panasonic Toughbooks. Out of hundreds installed I've only had one go bad and it was jump-started by an idiot. I've had a higher failure rate on the Toughbooks. As far as the laptops are concerned, they think they're hooked to their normal AC adapter.
The adapters we've been buying are completely potted with rubber inside and can be easily weather-proofed by putting a bead of silicone caulk around each connector.
Disclaimer: It worked for me.
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I agree, why not use an inverter? They can be small, cheap (less than $50), and simple. I don't know how much your time is worth, buy unless I could solve this problem is less than an hour, I would probably go down to the warehouse store and buy one off the shelf. regards, michael.
if you're riding a '66 ducati 250 you'll be their enough that you won't even need a battery.
leave it at home.
unless you plan on riding and geeking out at the same time.
or did you want to sit out in the fields of flowers and compose love sonnets and haiku to your jelly tanked moto bolognese.
"Oh, I'm a janitor. I used to be a computer geek, but I got wacked in the head". --Dave um... "Smith"
If your bike is being converted to 12v, see MCE Tech's Auto power adapters, which run about $30.
I'd have to recommend doing a 12v conversion just for your sanity of finding parts on the road. You probably already know that it's not a question of if but when it will break, so try to make it easy on yourself to repair. Maybe even get a list of repair shops along your route before you set out.
The full power adapter requiment of 45 watts is designed to be enough to run the PowerBook and a few Firewire/USB powered accessories, while also charging the battery. If you have the machine sleeping or even powered off while doing highway speeds, you may have enough juice from your alternator to charge it and keep your cycle's battery charged, while running the headlight.
Happy trails!!
Why not invest in a small powerful solar panel to charge your laptop and your bike! You may find the following site useful for this kind of technology www.FutureEnergies.com
Use pencil and paper you moron! And film cameras.
"trickle charging" the laptop itself will not likely be possible - Almost all laptops expect full current for charging. (Even when turned off, my dad's Dell Inspiron 8000 would overload and shut down our old inverter, which was too cheap and too small.)
Trickling the batteries - Be VERY careful. Li-Ions cannot be constantly trickle charged. You SHOULD be safe giving the battery a low-current charge if you use a regulator set to 4.1 or 4.2v/cell (Depends on the exact battery chemistry, the type of electrode changes the nominal voltage slightly.) with a current-limiting resistor. But don't leave the battery in the charger, this will be bad.
The way Li-Ions are supposed to be charged is a current-limited charge, but with the charge voltage never exceeding 4.1 or 4.2 volts per cell. At this threshold, the charger must go into constant voltage mode. Once the current goes below a certain threshold, the charger should start a timer and then shut down at the end of 30-60 minutes. Trickle-charging it beyond that 30-60 minutes is BAD. NiMHs and NiCds can be trickle charged at low currents (C/16 or less, the lower the better for the battery's health), and lead-acids (gel cells are a variant of lead-acid) like having a "float" charge of a constant voltage (Around 13-14 volts for a 12v lead-acid battery I think) applied constantly or regularly. (Car alternators typically provide this charge in automotives.)
Note that even "deep cycle" lead-acids or gel cells should not be cycled deeply on a regular basis. lead-acids like to be topped off, as do those rechargable alkalines.
Problem is that the pinouts and connectors for almost all laptop batteries are nonstandard, and some expect various control lines to be connected while charging. These connections are never documented.
retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
Or I suppose just plug in the laptop to the inverter - how boring is that? ;)
"I can't give you a brain, so I'll give you a diploma" - The Great Oz (blatently stolen sig)
If that were the case, your bike battery wouldn't recharge. Your generator produces AC, the it is regulated and rectified down to ~12v DC.
You have a 12v DC system that will have a tendency to fluctuate within a couple volts of 12. So, high RPMs will give you ~13-14v (depending on the regulator) and low will hopefully not drop below 10.
Considering you have a 1cyl bike, that means relatively low rpms (unlike my 4 cyl sport bike, which redlines at 14k), so hopefully the cycles won't be as bad as that.
I would add a second battery as the another poster mentioned to guarantee ~12v, not too mention it is damn handy. My bike died after having the lights on for a 45min traffic jam in Barcelona; 2500km from home. Thankfully, I had a friend and a busy tourist alley (Las Ramblas!) to push start. grin.
Hook the laptop to the second battery.
Also, having traveled extensively on a bike, I would highly recommend getting one of those super small laptops. The 800x400 display isn't nice to work on full time, but the extra space is priceless.
Good luck.
current of 1/20 of the pack's capacity when the pack
is charged.
So if it is a 1000 milliamp-hour pack, pick a series
resistor to give a 50 milliamp charge rate.
Automotive electronics live in a really bad environment. There are occasional high voltage spikes, and all other kinds of nasties.
:-)
I have seen after market devices designed to allow you to use your laptop in a car (ie plug into cigarette lighter) - I've been meaning to buy one for my Toshiba. I'd buy one of these and simply wire up a lighter socket to your 12V battery. If you just want to trickle charge your laptop, leave it switched off.
Otherwise you're looking at building a switchmode DC-DC converted with a high tolerance for bad electrical environments - a challenging task and probably not cost effective.
I'd stay away from the Inverter scenario - apart from the bulk of the thing, it's going to be far more inefficient and only worth persuing if you have other mains powered devices (can't be that much space on a Ducati).