Removing Cross-Threaded Screws from Hardware?

TeaDaemon asks: "I currently have an expensive (dual CPU) motherboard mounted in a rack case. One of the mounting screws is cross-threaded, preventing me from removing the board. The case is designed to prevent access to the back of the risers, so that's not an option. Does anyone have experience with this sort of problem? Can anyone suggest a reliable way of removing said screw without damaging the board or any of it's components? The screw is next to the PCI slots, and has a couple of capacitors and ICs near by. Any help would be greatly appreciated."

Comments

Just a thought, might work, might not

[Webmoth]

Tools needed: 1 Dremel Moto-Tool (or equivalent) and an appropriate burr bit; 1 vacuum cleaner with smallish wand; 1 clear "safety cap" from a bottled water bottle; clear adhesive tape as needed.

Here's the idea: using the moto-tool, drill a hole in the TOP of the safety cap just big enough for the bit to pass thru. Also drill a hole in the side of the cap you can attach the vacuum cleaner wand to with the adhesive tape.

Now here's how to use it: turn the vacuum cleaner on and place your fashioned hood over the screw. The suction may keep it in place, or you may need a helper or duct tape. Now stick your moto-tool in the top of the hood and grind away. Hopefully, the vacuum cleaner will suck away the filings well enough to prevent damage to the motherboard.

Here's another thought: if you can access the edge of the motherboard, you might be able to get a hacksaw blade between the mobo and the case and cut the offending standoff off.

Re:The mechanic's friend

[sporktoast]

I recall using Superglue once in just such a situation. I had an old XT box and I wanted to shoehorn a 286 into it. The old mobo had a mounting screw that I'd managed to strip and couldn't get out to save my life. I thought about drilling it, but a friend suggested the Superglue route. I went to the hardware store and found a cheap-but-sturdy-enough nutdriver. I glued it into place, waited extra long for it to set and just removed it all together. If I'd been feeling extra thrifty (or pessimistic about possible repeat circumstances), I might have used some nail polish remover and salvaged the nut driver.

I had considered the Vise-Grip method, but even the needle-nosed models were still a bit bulky for that particular tight spot.