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Clammy Modding

japala writes "Some people tend to have cold hands while they type the keyboard or use the mouse. Equally as many suffer from sweaty palms and that feels really annoying while using the mouse. MetkuMods have made couple of tutorials in true DIY spirit that will try to make your life easier. These devices may have started as a joke but trust me, they do work. See the MouseFan and BreezePad."

8 of 191 comments (clear)

  1. Palmar hyperhidrosis by sstory · · Score: 4, Interesting

    People who have this condition so bad that their mouse shorts out have Palmar Hyperhidrosis, and it can be treated by applying antiperspirant to your palms several times per week. I read an article about it. It's totally weird. dripping hands all the time.

  2. How about babypowder ? by bobo333 · · Score: 3, Interesting

    just a thought. Good enough for MJ before a game.

  3. Sweaty Palms -- Dirty Mouse Pads by srw · · Score: 5, Interesting

    I used to work in a computer store. One of our staff would spend most of the day sitting at a computer in the showroom playing Everquest or whatever other game was new at the time. Another employee would daily replace the grimey mouse pad. Seriously, after 8 hours of gaming the mouse pad would have a very noticable, ugly stain on it.

  4. the Peltier effect is cool! by sentientbeing · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I thought those ideas were a bit lame. I know the mouse fan was a joke, but I wouldnt want the fan generating all sorts of harmonics on the 5v power line anyway. Screw all the signals up I reckon. Especially on the optical variety which uses signal processing.
    A Peltier cooling device on the 'other hand' (no pun intended) would be ideal and it can be molded to almost any shape mouse, and it uses constant current. Utilised in this project

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    1. Re:the Peltier effect is cool! by SharpFang · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Not really. The mouse has 4 wires - 2 for data and 2 for power, and it has pretty high tollerance for power (at least my logitech has :). Even the data lines are quite "strong". I tapped into the data lines, connecting them to amplifier, powered it from power lines and made a LED "activity indicator" that blinks whenever something on the PS2 line happens (i.e. the mouse is moved :)

      Note it's digital transmission, not analog, so you need quite strong line noise to break it.

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  5. Okay, but what about heating? by SharpFang · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Can I get enough power to the mouse over existing wiring to add some heater device or do I have to replace the cable? What would you suggest as the heater - will a few plain higher-than-minimum power resistors suffice? Will I be able to run it from built in computer ATX power supply or do I need some extra external power?

    (that metal "inertia wheel" is very cool for fast scrolling but it gets damn cold in winter.)

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  6. Keyboard condoms... weird, but have their place by redwolfoz · · Score: 3, Interesting

    If you send them a photocopy of your keyboard, most companies will produce a reasonable keyboard skin for you.

    It's still very much a love it or hate it thing... you have to weigh up whether the weird rubbery texture and lack of key feel is worth ignoring to keep crap out of your keyboard. But if you're really jittery with your first caffiene source in the morning, it may be a cheaper option than constantly replacing fried keyboards.

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  7. Re:Now if only... by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Now if only...

    ...he'd hooked the BreezePad up to the exhaust of a vacuum cleaner rather than a wimpy little computer fan.

    HoverMouse, anyone?

    I should try mousing on the air hockey table to see how slippery it is....

    Seriously, too. To cut acrylic (or most other plastics) neatly, use masking tape along the line you're cutting (helps avoid chips). Don't use metalworking tools if you can avoid it, the teeth are too fine and get clogged. Saw *slowly* because the friction will melt the plastic. Pouring water (ie. from a garden hose) as you cut is good to wash away chips and keep the piece cool. Leave the paper backing on the plastic until you're done *all* the cutting and drilling. Deburr the holes by using a countersinking bit BY HAND for a couple of turns. And finally, always remember: measure once, cut twice! [grin]

    If you need this to work with an optical mouse, make sure any LEDs in the pad are a very different color. Mine, for example, has a red LED and I'd imagine that its sensor is designed for that, so blue LEDs would probably upset it very little... but I haven't tested it.

    Once you've got the cutting and drilling done, you could take off the paper backing and take the piece to a sandblasting shop and have them blast it gently with walnut shells or other soft blasting media. That should frost it nicely so that it works with an optical mouse, and the whole thing would glow, too.

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