Rewiring Your Home Phone System?
the_2nd_coming asks: "Back when I moved into my house, the phone system was in need of immediate upgrade. The house was built in 1964, and it still had the original spaghetti phone lines running through the walls. The phone jacks were in odd places, and to top it all off, the line would melt after I would dial up to my ISP. I took immediate and drastic action. I pulled all the phone wires out of the walls, patched over the holes where the jacks use to be, and started drilling. I bought 2000 feet of Cat5 (I was going to be putting in a home network in the future). A day later, I was cursing and bitching because the old phone system used a 3 screw junction box to connect the house to the phone company, making it very difficult to have multiple jacks.What is the best way to rewire my phone system so that adding an extra 2 or 3 jacks would not be such a chore?"
"I eventually got all the wires hooked up, but very poorly due to the shoddy junction box. Since then I have added a phone jack, and will be adding 2 more in preparation for DirecTV service. My problem is that I did not set up the system to be expandable: just adding one jack was a hack job, and with 2 more on the way I have decided it is time to rewire this system with expandability in mind. I have looked around at Home Depot and Radio Shack, but all their solutions seem sub-par."
Note that those thee terminals belong to the phone co!
In my last house (built 1955) I had similar problems. The wiring was crumbling, and I was getting a lot of noise and cross-talk between my two lines and solved most of my problems just by calling my phone co. and having them come out and install a modern demarcation point with capacity for 8 lines and modular jacks on my side of the demarc for debugging. I replaced all the wiring with Cat5, just in case, and this helped enormously.
Note that my current house (built 2001) isn't much better. Yes it has a modern demarc, but the builder skimped on the internal wiring and it's still wired the old fashioned way with only one pair of wires going to each phone line daisy-chained to other outlets. The house was "prewired" with Cat5 and RG6 but was not designed for flexibility as some of the outlets are in the wrong place for me, or don't have all the right connections. (e.g. I wanted a second RG6 and phone line for my DirecTV Tivo, but have so far been unable to find a way to route the wires there.My next house will have conduit in the walls
Balamthe line would melt after I would dial up to my ISP.
Forget rewireing until you get your modem looked at. It shouldn't by pumping out nearly enough amps to do that.
-- MarkusQ
You'll probably want to use a 66 block. Just attach the top set to the junction box, and punch as many lines as you have space for (often 24, so up to 23 lines). You can also use various jack schemes to produce a "patch panel", or you can use an actual patch panel, but it's simplest and cleanest to use a 66 block (or a 110 block, depending on your needs, but probably a 66 block), especially if you plan on making the connections semi-permanent and don't expect to change them frequently.
I did not design this game/I did not name the stakes/I just happen to like apples/And I am not afraid of snakes-AniD
On block "B", in the forth row, I punched down every jack in the house. I labelled every pair, and had a map of where they were in the house.
You then run patch cables from column 4 block "A", to column 1 block "B", and use the metal clips to complete the circut. Thus any time I wanted to change out wires, all it took was a small run of wire from block A to block B. The original wires from the phone company or to the jack, never had to be touched to manipulate the system. You want to get the wires from the phone company, and the wires from the jack so you, never ever touch them. It makes trouble shooting lots easier, and you'll never run out of cable.
I might have introduced some line noise due to the way I duplicated the lines on block A, but I don't use dialup, so that was never an issue.
Now, if you want to get really fancy, wire each cat 5 cable into a patch panel. Thus you can put phone, or ethernet to any jack in your home. Now you can skip block "B" (the patch panel acts like the punch down block). Now, use row 4 of punchdown block A, and take phone jacks straight to the patch panel. You'll have eight copies of each line to distribute around the house as you see fit. When you want to move a line, just change the port it's plugged into on the patch panel. Unless you do phone, and network, this is really overkill. Just running the punchdown blocks will work great.
I figure that if the phone company uses punch down blocks, they are good enough for me. The tools are kinda expensive ($50-80 for a punch down tool, and the heads you'll need to do it). The punchdown blocks themselves are dirt cheap, like $8 bucks a piece. The patch panels are pretty expensive.
Kirby
I thought you said you went to the local... oh nevermind.
This is a great resource for many kinds of in-home wiring.
If you reply, do so only to what I explicitly wrote. If I didn't write it, don't assume or infer it.
You already ripped out the old cables. Did you do that just because you like using the phrase "fish tape"? Even if they were routed the old standard way - daisy-chained from jack to jack, if they could be pulled out, they were still useful.
Really, the daisy chain is the telephonically-correct way to wire. If you do a star topology, like they did in my house, it's a big impedence mismatch. Of course, the fact that it's ok to have multiple unknown ringer equivalencies on the line means there's some leeway.
Anyway, run the CatV or whatever from where you have signal to where you want it. Terminate it where you want it, and connect the other end to the signal source. Then, plug in the equipment you want on the phone system (at the aforementioned terminations). Note: There are several types of wall terminations. The only one's I've seen are screw terminal and insulation-piercing quick-installs. For POTS, the screws are better. If you're putting RJ45s all around, so each jack might be phone or ethernet, the quick-installs are actually a bit better for a while (the drier you climate, the longer that is). Note: You can use one CatV to carry ethernet AND up to two POTS signals. The blue and Brown pairs are dead in standard wiring, so you might as well split them out and make them available for other purposes. I wouldn't recommend it for 1000bT (in some implementations, all 4 pairs are used anyway), but for a home 10 or 100 network, it's just good economic sense. Radio Shack carries a dual-jack outlet - RJ45 & RJ-11 (though an RJ-11 plug will work just fine in an RJ-45 jack). Of course, if you're doing the whole house, you're probably buying from a real supplier(it took me 2 trips a week apart to get two of those wall-plates).
THe best way is to make a central 'phone closet'. Run a 6pr cable from the demarc to this closet This will give you a maximum of 6 incoming lines before you have to run more. Punch that down to one 66 block. Run new cables from each jack to the phone closet and puch them down to another block. Use splice wire to go between the two blocks using the non-cutting side of the punch tool to create loops.
Wiring Code:
for 66 blocks
(primary in bold)
Pr 1:White Blue | Blue White
Pr 2:White Orange | Orange white
Pr 3:White Green | Green White
Pr 4:White Brown | Brown White
Pr 5:White Slate | Slate White
Pr 6:Red Blue | Blue Red
for 'biscuit' jacks and wall plates
Wire from Cable | Wire on Jack
White/Blue | Green
Blue/White | Red
White/Orange | Black
Orange/White | Yellow
White/Green | White
Green/White | Blue
When it comes to wiring the jacks, only the green/red wires are really necessary. These wires carry the dialtone that everything uses. The Black/Yellow wires are for a seccond line, or data as in the case of a phone system. You will fid black/yellow hooked up more commonly on houses with two lines. This is how they make two line phones that have only one cord. Just as a suggestion, wire them all up as if you were putting two phone lines everywhere. This will make it easier if you decide to go to a phone system with extensions, etc. (Psst.. if you do go to a phone system, get an Avaya/Lucent/whatever their name is Phone system called the Partner system. It's one of a rare few that you can connect a home type telephone/cordless/modem up to and use without additional hardware. You can get them for good prices on Ebay.)
Hope this helps
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