Integrated Reflector Could Lead to Ubiquitous LEDs

Andreas writes "Professor Schubert says he has found a way to raise the efficiency of LEDs to 99%. From an article on Advanced Technology: "Until now, all lighting systems, especially incandescent bulbs, generated more heat than light. But our 99-percent efficient reflectors for LEDs makes them the first candidate for light-bulb replacement that generates more light than heat," said Schubert."

Comments

110/230V AC

[EnglishTim]

Okay, so let's assume all our lightbulbs start being made from LEDs... At some point soon we're going to have to start changing our lighting circuits to 5V, or something like that. It's madness that each lightbulb will have to contain it's own little transformer - it'll make the bulbs vastly more expensive and wasteful.

There are a selection of appliances that work well with 110/230V AC - things that require a lot of power like kettles, hoovers, heaters, washing machines, hobs, tumble driers and the like. However, there's an increasing number of appliances in a modern household that would be much better served by a 12V DC supply.

How long do you think it'll be before we start changing over?

Re:110/230V AC

[rco3]

A few points to note, realizing that not many posters around here are EE's:

1) LED's are not voltage mode devices. There IS a typical voltage drop associated with an LED, but it can vary appreciably between devices. One sets the operational point of an LED by controlling the current through it, and allowing the voltage to settle to whatever value it wants. Typically, one would want to see around 30 mA through a normal T1-3/4 LED. Depending on the chemistry of the LED, this could result in a voltage anywhere between 1.5V and 3 or 4V. This, as I said, will vary somewhat between different LED's of the identical type. If you try to set the voltage, you'll get wildly varying currents and a lot of dead LEDs.

2) Stringing together LEDs in series to get something approaching 120V drop is a good idea, but you still have to limit the current. Leaving a few volts between the nominal operational voltage of your LED string and the nominal supply voltage is a good idea, because you can then use an active (or passive) current limitation scheme which operates within that voltage gap. The simplest way is with a single resistor, sized such that R= (Vsupply-VLEDS)/ILEDS. This is subject to variation due to device mismatch, temp variation, etc, and dissipates some power in the resistor. Another way to do this, which allows for the LED to be operated from a much higher voltage than it's rated for, is to use a series capacitor. The determination of proper capacitor size is a bit more tricky, but you can successfully run a single LED from a 120V supply. The indicator in my waterbed heater has run this way for a couple of years now. Nice part is that the capacitor does NOT dissipate any power as heat. Enough of them might screw up your power factor enough to piss off the power company, though :-)

Important messages to take home from this: you can't set LED operating point from the voltage across it, at least not safely and reliably; you can operate LEDs from 120VAC using a capacitor as the gain setting element, which is appreciably cheaper than using a transformer.