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How to Keep Your Computer Cool
ThinSkin writes "ExtremeTech is featuring a how-to article on keeping your computer cool by adopting an efficient airflow strategy for your PC case. The article goes into detail on what types of fans are optimal for your computer and your needs, where you should place them, and how to make your own fan mounts. From the article: 'With an efficient cooling strategy, there's no reason a case should ever grow so warm. Good airflow is critical to keeping your PC operating and extending the life of the components. Keep the air flowing!'"
And for the serious overclockers, we have low powered cryogenics coming down the pipeline. It turns out that Intel is considering the possibility of using Pulse Tube Coolers for the next generation of thermal management. (Hey Intel, you think that over 100 watts might be just a *smidge* much for a processor?)
:-)
While there's something to be said for this step being rather extreme, it might lead to the development of cryogenic computers. These futuristic processors could utilize super-conducting transistors and wires to improve performance and eliminate waste heat.
Kind of a weird thought, but there you have it.
Personally, I'd like to see Stirling or Pulse Tube Coolers replacing existing phase-change air conditioners. In the name of "energy efficiency", you can't buy a decent apartment AC and are forced to deal with putting one in every room. Stirling engines could provide better cooling for less energy! Now if we could just get the buggers mass produced to bring down the cost...
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Actually, they say your computer is much better off with its case closed. Airflow is actually quite important.
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I just built a new PC with an Athlon64 3700+, an XFX 6800gt, and a 74gig Raptor. These things would tend to add up to a few degrees.
But I put it into a cheap ($50) Cooler Master Centurion case with an 80mm front fan and a 120mm rear fan.
CPU runs at 29c idle, 36c max
Case runs at 33c idle, 39c max
GPU runs at 60c idle, 65c max (those buggers run hot!)
The point is that you don't need anything particularly fancy to keep a decent spec system cool. Just do a little homework. The Cooler Master case was excellent value.
Just leave the case open.
That may not be as good of an idea as you think. Cases todays are designed like wind-tunnels with the air moving from the front to the back. As the air passes over areas, it draws away the heat and is exhausted out the back.
When the case is off the PC, the wind tunnel effect is lost and most of the air is left standing. As a result, your ability to cool your system is actually reduced. This can lead to overheating and ultimately, failure.
If you value your computer, you'll get a nice large case with properly installed fans.
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That is near the danger level. Typical for a desktop system is 25-35C at idle, going up to 50-55C during peak use. Most thermal cutoffs (extreme downclocking, automatic shutdown) activate at or near 75C. I would be worried, with your system, that hot days and heavy use would cause lockups or the aforementioned throttling. Even if that doesn't happen, consistent operation at those temperatures is going to markedly reduce the life expectancy of your hardware.
I haven't read anything recently about Peltier cooling in regards to CPU cooling. I know there can be issues regarding condensation, but assuming that's accounted for, is this a bad way to go?
Yes, it is a bad way to go. The problem with Peltier devices is that their thermal transfer efficiency is dependent upon their current draw, and if you're generating more heat than they can transfer, that heat is going to build up on the "cold" side and your CPU will end up being hotter than if you just used a good passive solution. To make matters worse, there is no free lunch; and that current draw responsible for that heat transfer also generates additional heat (over and above that being transferred); so you now have more overall heat in your case than you would if you'd just used a passive solution.
They are a decent answer to some niche cooling problems, however, if you can be certain that the peltier unit is both reliable and has a thermal transfer rating greater than the theoretical max wattage of the CPU you're using and that the additional system heat they generate can be eliminated somehow; the problem is that such CPUs are still usually cooled quite well with just a passive heatsink.
My comp runs fine, but what about my ROOM?! I have central air cond, but my bedroom is the only room in the house that is boiling hot in the summer. As a power user who doesn't like turning off his comp, that sucks :P
Two things:
1. Open your window - if you need a screen on it, then get one.
2. Mount your PC so it's in the shade, with the exhaust going towards the window and the air intake coming from the shade.
3. Buy a box fan for your window, or put one so it pushes the hot air out.
4. Stop painting your room black when it faces south.
5. Put a large flat tray of water right after the box fan, so that the air moving towards the computer is cooled by evaporation. Make sure this does not result in condensation on your computer after 30 minutes at say 3 pm (hottest time).
6. If you can, buy louvred slats to cover your window and reflect out the sunlight but permit the airflow.
7. If you're not at home, make sure your computer has sleep mode - and use it. Most heat is generated by your monitor, so buy an LCD flat screen monitor (lower energy usage, lower heat generation, quieter).
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You need a decent heatsink designed for 1U use, and a motherboard with 1U use in mind.
Motherboard considerations: The chip socket should be as recessed as possible considering the board standoffs, no large capacitors, as many right-angled cable connectors as possible, etc.
Also, the chip sockets have to be oriented so they are not obstructed by board components (such as filled RAM slots).
The heatsink has to be full of fins oriented front-to-back. Then you need to install an assload of 60mm fans, and some plastic or carboard airflow guides/hoods to force that air into and out of the CPU heatsink while bypassing everything else. A few of the remaining fans that don't funnel into the CPU cooling "tunnel" will be cooling the power supply on one side, and a few more for general MB/chipset cooling on the other.
You will absolutely need fans in the front and back, as close to the front and rear ventilation holes of the case as possible.
Also helpful are HSFs that are horizontally oriented designed for 1U mounting to various socket types... but they are rare.
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