Fixing Windows Boxes that Crash After Blackouts?

UnseenTomorrow asks: "Everytime there's a power outage in my house, my Gateway computer crashes. It's only 2.5 yrs old. After the crash the computer just will not allow Windows to boot (yes, this includes "Safe Mode" and every other boot option in that menu). Should I explicitly say that I'm tired of rebuilding or restoring the image everytime? Does anyone have any idea of what could be the problem. I've other computers running fine after the power outage with the same OS but different hardware manufacturer. Any clues or suggestions would be greatly appreciated."

Comments

Think ahead

[TheWanderingHermit]

That's why God invented the UPS. The last one I bought was $90, but you can get them for much less, use the networking connections, and install the software that'll automatically shut down the system.

I don't use a huge UPS (actually I have two). I've noticed that if we get a power outage that's more than a flicker (i.e. lasting longer than 2 minutes, while circuits reset), that it'll likely be out for 45 minutes or more. So I don't worry about keeping my systems going for longer than 5 minutes (which is the 2 minutes plus 3 to shut them down -- which will change when I finally have time to set them up to communicate with the UPS).

Re:Think ahead

[Anonymous Coward]

Size constraints (you know what it takes to make a UPS sans batteries, right?). Its challenging enough to make computer power supplies fit into smaller and smaller spaces (while increasing the DC power output as computers need more and more power).

and, biggest of them all:

battery.

these things don't last forever and they're a liability. a friend of mine had their UPS explode and catch fire due to a bad battery at a local ISP. Batteries don't last forever either. they have to be replaced. Oh, and they're heavy as hell. You're looking at several pounds per battery, even for a modest one.

I'm pretty sure the industry (you know, those strange looking guys with pocket protectors, high IQ's, and engineering degrees to be qualified to know these things) is fully aware of these issues but has chosen not to consider them for very good reasons (i.e. what was stated above).

This is why a UPS is an external accessory.

Re:Think ahead

[walt-sjc]

This comes up everytime the subject of UPS's are mentioned.

No, you don't want car OR marine batteries (car batteries are worse, but both are inappropriate.)

In these batteries, the plates are more like lead sponges designed for high current output for short periods of time. What you want are industrial type batteries that are designed for many recharge cycles and long-term use - fork-lift batteries, or golf cart batteries are generally good choices. They have thick lead plates that hold up. Since they are not sealed, you have venting issues, and need to keep an eye on the water/acid levels.

Re:Think ahead

[Anonymous Coward]

I have two as well. For my 600VA unit, I pulled the stock 7VA battery and hooked up a car battery. Works real good.

Your UPS probably isn't delivering enough charge current to support a car size battery, so the car battery will degrade much faster than it should. Lead-acid batteries that are charged too slow, and that aren't given enough current in their brief "over-charge" state at the end of a charge will sulfate and fail rapidly.

You might get a lot of use per power failure cycle out of a car battery used in this way, but you'll get far fewer charge/discharge cycles than you should.

Re:Think ahead

[unitron]

"For my 600VA unit, I pulled the stock 7VA battery and hooked up a car battery."

Car batteries (or tractor or marine or anything along those lines) do not belong indoors, and are probably a good way to void your homeowner's or renter's insurance, assuming that you're still alive to care.

Um . . .

[Seumas]

Yeah, it sucks and all and that kind of thing can tend to happen with a hard shutdown... But you know, it could all be avoided with a reasonable backup power supply unit. Either one big one for all of them or several small ones. YOu just need enough time for them to shut down gracefully. If you're running Windows they often come with software that will instruct the systems ot safely shutdown after the outage is detected and before the juice runs out.

Sure, they're not free or cheap, but figure if you make $30-$40/hr and if you spend eight hours rebuilding a bunch of boxes, you might as well have just spent a few hundred on a nice power supply...

What's running?

[NanoGator]

Is something running on that computer that isn't running on others? I'm wondering if an important boot file is being left 'open' and never successfully closes unless Windows shuts down. Since you mentioned it being a Gateway computer, I would look closely at this. Maybe they have a recovery app that's shadow-copying your boot stuff so you can recover it later. (Maybe even the Windows save state for system files...?)

On a different topic, years ago I had a problem where Windows 98 would hose itself if you shut it down. It'd actually wipe out the FAT table. Why? The HD was new with a bigger cache than most discs had at the time. Windows would shut the power off to the drive before the disc was done writing data from the cache. I don't have high hopes that this has anything to do with your computer, but if I had nothing else to try in your situation, I'd see if the problem happens with a different HD.

Your likely problem...

[redheaded_stepchild]

Ok, here's your answer. I'm guessing your Gateway has GoBack on it. GoBack does not play well with other software or hardware, and likes to shit itself^H^H^H^H^H and can cause data inconsistencies when you pull the plug.

Basically, what it takes to fix it is get rid of the problem (GoBack) This will require, when you boot up, hit the space bar and turn GoBack off. Leave it off. Then, do what all the other nice people on /. are telling you to do, and get a UPS and plug a new computer into it.


To the editors: ARE YOU SERIOUS?? What, today is 'any old story will do' day?

CHKDSK

[RzUpAnmsCwrds]

Looks like your system crashed during a write and NTFS is unclean. Boot off a Windows CD. Press "R" to run the recovery console, log in, and type "chkdsk /f c:".

9 out of 10 times, chkdsk will be able to restore FS consistency. If not, do a "repair" operation to put down fresh OS files. Unplug the net until you enable the firewall, though.

Re:CHKDSK

[x69]

Since this seems to happen to the OP faily often I'd suggest installing the recovery console to the hard drive so that you don't have to fumble around looking for the windows cd every time it happens.

Check out http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb; en-us;307654 for more details

-Gerard

important Information

[Jamesie]

You left out some important information, like ...
There are several versions of windows, which one are you using?
What actually happens when you try to reboot? Is there an error message? A blank screen?
Which model gateway are you using?

Here are a few things to try.
Try googling that model with 'reboot' and any other useful info about the problem.
Could it be the cmos battery? Swap with another pc and see if that works.
Could the power supply be on it's last legs? Swap in one from another pc
While I am not suggesting you switch operating systems, the 'try linux' idea could narrow down the problem. Try booting off a knoppix or other livecd, if that doesn't work try installing linux (back up your system first!) and seeing if there are still boot problems.

If its not a software problem...

[spleck]

It could be the fact that its a Gateway. Cheap powersupply, motherboard, hard drive. My guess is that something is not behaving properly during the low power condition. I believe the PS should shut off completely when its not able to maintain 5/12V, but due to a design flaw or defect, yours may still be outputting, leading to unknown states in various components of your system.

Easiest answer: UPS.

Otherwise, a fresh, clean install of Windows; swap power supplies; swap hard drives; swap motherboard, etc.