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Lab Created Diamonds Come to Market

E writes "Technology is putting some new sparkle in the world of diamonds. Until recently, naturally occurring, mined diamonds were unchallenged in their quality and desirability. But now laboratory-created diamonds, which possess the same properties as naturals, are poised to give them a run for their money. A new company, Adia Diamonds, has quite the variety in their inventory. They have the same chemical and physical properties as a mined diamond and come in white, blue and yellow. Both GIA and EGL grading labs are offering certifications for lab created diamonds. Seems like a good, high-tech alternative to the DeBeers diamond cartel."

24 of 578 comments (clear)

  1. Real importance beyond jewelry? by dada21 · · Score: 5, Interesting

    The article hints more at the new synthetic process' value for jewelry, but I'm not so certain that most jewelers will appreciate it -- especially the jewelers that cater to the most extravagent tastes. Diamonds have always been an oddity for me -- I understand the diamond's purpose in industrial applications (drill bits, saw blades, abrasives, and even in semiconductors) but the De Beers Group situation is not one I've ever understood -- even when trying to "think like a lady."

    I'm guessing the De Beers Group isn't worried about these synthetic diamonds, either -- they have such a great relationship with most jewelers because the De Beers Group spends a LOT of money in how they market the diamonds: marketing that provides diamonds for the bling-bling rappers, the royal families, the Hollywood stars and whoever else needs something sparkling to wear in public. That's what the jewelers want: they don't care if it's cheap, they get a great marketing campaign and still make huge profit margins.

    From Adia's website, we see only one retailer that resells their diamonds. Here's a company that has been around a few years, and they don't have a lot of support.

    For industrial applications, though, is the De Beers Group really a powerhouse? I'd always heard that a lot of flawed diamonds end up in the industrial applications, and the flawed ones are significantly cheaper than the "perfect" clarity versions used in jewelry.

    As a sidenote, my lady doesn't wear diamonds unless they're family heirlooms -- I've gotten her to move to 22K and 24K gold jewelry. It is shiny, sparkles like crazy if cut right, and when it wears down, I have it swapped for a new piece of jewelry in any Indian neighborhood (or in India) for a relatively competitive price. Diamonds are sort of boring for her now -- she sees how little they store value over time versus gold, and they're not very useful in a financial emergency (versus gold or platinum). Plus the fact that she can "trade-up" her softened jewelry for something else really captivates her -- the last ring she wore we "exchanged" for a set of earrings that was traded for bangles a few years later. With the diamond, she's mostly stuck.

    1. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by WindBourne · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Actually, De Beers is terrified. Over the last decade, they have pushed "genuine diamonds". Cool. A good jeweler and a bit testing could determine the difference between natural and artificial. Note, that I do not call it real vs. fake. The reason is, that they are both real. The problem is that the new artificial are not only indistinguishable, but it appears that better larger ones may be available soon for less than the cheaper "real" ones. De Beers would LOVE to kill these folks. But it is way too late for that. All in all, an investment in a diamond mine or even in a diamond ring may be a very bad investment. OTH, a nice gold ring may be a good one. In particular, if it has some disappearing scribbling inside.

      --
      I prefer the "u" in honour as it seems to be missing these days.
    2. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by BJH · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Interestingly enough, it IS possible to distinguish the new artifical diamonds from natural ones.

      The artificial ones have fewer impurities and inclusions ;)

    3. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by eln · · Score: 5, Insightful

      A diamond ring has always been a bad investment, because the same marketing push that has been so successful at convincing everyone that diamonds are somehow rare and valuable have also convinced people that second-hand diamonds are nearly worthless. You will never get anywhere near what you paid for a diamond ring on the secondary market unless you happen to have a diamond with some historic significance.

      The DeBeers story, and the history of the diamond as jewelry, is simply the story of the most successful marketing campaign in history. It is simply astonishing how the DeBeers cartel has managed to turn a fairly ordinary (but shiny) stone into one of the most expensive, sought after stones around. A stone that is so valuable that not only is it worth 2 MONTHS salary, but is so personal that it should never be purchased second hand.

    4. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by _KiTA_ · · Score: 5, Interesting
      I'm guessing the De Beers Group isn't worried about these synthetic diamonds, either -- they have such a great relationship with most jewelers because the De Beers Group spends a LOT of money in how they market the diamonds: marketing that provides diamonds for the bling-bling rappers, the royal families, the Hollywood stars and whoever else needs something sparkling to wear in public. That's what the jewelers want: they don't care if it's cheap, they get a great marketing campaign and still make huge profit margins.


      Actually, there was an article on /. about this a long time ago (3+ years?) when this tech first started really taking off. It mentioned two technologies, 1 which was basically putting carbon in a box and crushing the holy living out of it, another which was taking a slice of diamond and "growing" new diamond on top of it with essentially carbon "rain." -- then taking a slice of the new, artificial diamond and growing more diamond on that.

      One of the guys reported getting repeated death threats by people he traced back to De Beers, attacked at Trade Shows, attempts at blackmailing them into selling or destroying the tech, etc. DeBeers was offering free devices for dealers to detect these diamonds (they're TOO perfect, chemically, some deformations that should be there are not), etc. At the end of it all there was a diamond dealer who examined the synth diamonds and basically said "eh, my customers wouldn't care that it's synthetic, they just want a diamond."

      Basically DeBeers was freaking RIGHT out about the whole thing. Small wonder since they keep such a stranglehold on the diamond trade using whatever legal (and illegal) pracitices they can get away with.
    5. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by ravenshrike · · Score: 5, Informative

      Ding!. The DeBeers cartel has over a 400 yrs supply of diamond stock. If artificial diamond tech takes off and they can't get a stranglehold, that stock becomes essentially worthless.

    6. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by Jane+Q.+Public · · Score: 5, Interesting

      This may be true, but if so it is also completely asinine.

      Diamond prices are based almost completely on the various measures of quality. Other than cut, those measures are entirely determined by the purity (lack of trace elements), and the "flawlessness" of the crystal. Flawlessness weighs very heavily in the price calculation.

      Adding imperfections to make the diamond look "natural" is equivalent to shooting oneself in the foot; it defeats the whole purpose. The existing controllers of the diamond markets may try to shift prices toward "natural" diamonds, but as you and others have stated that can be faked too. So any such action would be a finger in the dike with a tsunami on the way. Thanks, but if it were me I would rather stand clear.

    7. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by dhovis · · Score: 5, Informative

      Actually that tester tests the thermal conductivity of the stone. Cubic Zirconia is virtually indistinguishable from diamond. A really well trained gemologist can tell the difference some of the time, but not the people who work in jewelry stores.

      OTOH, diamond has a very high thermal conductivity and cubic zirconia does not. When CZ first hit the market, jewelers really flipped out, because people could buy diamond rings, replace the diamond with CZ, and then return the ring with the CZ for full price. At first, the only surefire test was to measure the density, but that required removing the stone from the setting, something that takes some time. The company that created CZ then also produced a tester which at its tip had a small heater and a temperature probe a little ways away. If you touch the tip to a diamond, heat will transfer from the heater to the probe, whereas with a CZ, it will not. The company made more money off the patent for the detector than they ever did off CZ.

      Of note, a few years back, a new lab-created diamond alternative hit the market: Moissanite. It is a form of silicon carbide, and it actually has a higher index of refraction than diamond (it sparkles more). It also has a high thermal conductivity, so it would fool the old testers. Moissanite is easier to distinguish from diamond under a loupe, however. It is birefringent.

      --

      --
      The internet is the greatest source of biased information in the history of mankind.

  2. Great! by Average_Joe_Sixpack · · Score: 5, Funny

    My Real Doll will never know the difference

  3. anything is a good alternative to DeBeers by yagu · · Score: 5, Informative

    Lab manufactured diamonds is an interesting concept, but if DeBeers gets its metaphorical finger in machine, it will ensure these diamonds either never get manufactured, or if they are manufactured never hit the marketplace with the name "diamond". The DeBeers monopoly is too dear and too powerful for disruption like this.

    You can argue the "blood diamond" political aspects of the diamond mining industry, but even tossing that aside DeBeers' behavior and domination and control of the diamond industry transcends any other monopoly. There's a reason DeBeers isn't a U.S. company (among many others...), DeBeers' monopolistic practices and domination and heavy handed control of the diamond market would not likely pass legal muster in the U.S.

    If you ever get a chance (/. "girlfriend" jokes aside), buy the lab diamonds, or buy your to-be a genuinely rare gem such as a Ruby (diamonds are not rare).

    The sooner the myth that is diamonds is de-mythed, the better. Read more about diamond myths here.

  4. this is good on so many levels by circletimessquare · · Score: 5, Interesting

    -challenges one of the most egregious monopolies in the world: debeers

    -undermines the economic incentive for blood diamonds

    -removes the financial drive behind a classist symbol, the diamond ring

    -unlocks thousands of new technological and scientific advances, due to diamond's unique properties of hardness and optics, that were previously economically unfeasible

    a diamond is just carbon. a very common element. it's just arranged in particularly difficult to achieve crystal. not anymore

    on so many levels, in so many ways, when something that was previously scarce is now plentiful, the world has become a better place, progress has been achieved

    --
    intellectual property law is philosophically incoherent. it is your moral duty to ignore it or sabotage it
  5. they're missing an element by macadamia_harold · · Score: 5, Funny

    Seems like a good, high-tech alternative to the DeBeers diamond cartel.

    Not really. They're missing an element; a human element. I expect bloodshed and slavery with my diamonds. They make the diamonds more special.

  6. Much more detailed article by Gregoyle · · Score: 5, Informative

    Wired did a much more in depth article on this subject a couple years ago.

    One thing to keep in mind is that saying the lab-created diamonds possess the same qualities as natural diamonds is a little misleading. They are certainly diamonds, in that they are the same type of crystal form of carbon, but they *are* distinguishable from natural diamonds.

    What I find very interesting is just how expensive and advanced equipment needs to be to tell the difference, and how much Debeers is shelling out to ensure that the biggest diamond testing labs have that equipment. Check out the linked article for more on that.

    If you want to do something about challenging the DeBeers cartel and their questionable business practices, check out Canadian Diamonds, also here and here.

    --

    "He's more machine now than man, twisted and evil."

  7. It's not love . . . by 93,000 · · Score: 5, Funny

    It's not really love unless a 12 year old lost a finger cutting it out of the wall of a mine.

    (Kudos to whomever I'm paraphrasing/ripping off in saying that -- I know it's not my own.)

  8. Indistinguishable? by Nefarious+Wheel · · Score: 5, Informative
    My late father was a jeweler and certified diamond rater (whatever that meant, but he studied hard for it). He said that all natural diamonds and sapphires, no matter how pure they look, have little inclusions and flaws in them. The way to tell them from the synthetic gems was that the synthetic gems were too perfect, and didn't have those microscopic flaws.

    He also told me how to tell an artificial pearl from a real one -- the real one, he said, will dissolve in vinegar. Strange sense of humor he had.

    --
    Do not mock my vision of impractical footwear
    1. Re:Indistinguishable? by Jane+Q.+Public · · Score: 5, Informative

      That was not a joke. Back in the day it was a relatively easy and useful way to tell a genuine batch of pearls from fakes. Take random samples and see if they would begin to dissolve.

      Of course you would not want to dissolve the whole pearl. That would be silly.

    2. Re:Indistinguishable? by Orlando · · Score: 5, Funny

      Apparently the new ones can be designed to have flaws.

      I hear they spoke extensively to Microsoft to find the best way to consistently achieve flaws.

      --
      -= This is a self-referential sig =-
  9. The purpose of the diamond ritual... by inviolet · · Score: 5, Funny

    The purpose of the diamond ritual is to require the male (or whoever) to put his money where his mouth is, to prove that he is sincere about the relationship. And what's the old saying? "Money has a truthfulness. If a man speaks of his honor, make him pay in cash."

    The diamond is idea for this purpose because it has almost no resale value. It's a way for the male to make a demonstratively extravagant purchase, one which the female (or whoever) is not able to whip back around for a cash refund.

    Of course, it didn't have to be diamonds. Were it not for the DeBeers' marketing savvy, any arbitrary rare object could've sufficed. If technology had evolved differently, women might now be wearing tiny LCD displays on their fingers which play a video loop of their husbands throwing a bundle of cash into the ocean.

    --
    FATMOUSE + YOU = FATMOUSE
    1. Re:The purpose of the diamond ritual... by humberthumbert · · Score: 5, Funny

      Isn't society fucked up? I wish we would stop
      bringing up children to harbor such retarded notions
      of what love is about.

      Well, I don't know what love is, either. But it's not
      Hollywood, it's not dinners and flowers, and it's not
      about all the bullshit games that people play.

      But thanks to the mass media and the continual
      dumbing down of the populace, I reckon I will
      die alone.

      I know, I know, I'm a real downer at parties.

  10. If she insists on a "real" diamond... by humberthumbert · · Score: 5, Insightful

    ...run, not walk, away from your woman.

    Especially if you have explained to her what a scam DeBeers has perpetuated
    upon the world, and it has not changed her mind.

    Sure, you can offer her a non-blood diamond. But you have to ask yourself
    if a person like that is someone you want to spent time with.

    Of course, I carry a cellphone with tantalum capacitors in them. The world's a fucked up place.

  11. Re:A great article on the subject by onx · · Score: 5, Interesting

    From the wired article: "In an ambiguous April 2001 ruling, the Federal Trade Commission said that it was "unfair or deceptive" to call a man-made diamond a "diamond,""

    I agree completely with the FTC, it is very misleading to call a diamond a diamond! Man-made diamonds are identical to so called natural diamonds, differing only in the fact that natural diamonds are pulled out of the ground and man-made ones are not.

    I love our government.

  12. Double Extra Irony Points for This One by germansausage · · Score: 5, Interesting

    For many years De Beers has been marketing diamonds and saying that the _very_best_ diamonds are flawless.

    Here is a quote : "_Flawless_ is the very highest grade of gem stone, where no internal inclusions or surface imperfections are visible."

    They are going to have a tough time convincing people that lab made diamonds are "too flawless".

  13. diamonds are forever by apunahasapeemapetala · · Score: 5, Interesting
    with all this jibba-jabba about diamonds, etc, there are a couple points that might be made:

    first of all, jewelers don't make a "huge profit margin" on diamonds, in fact they generally make very little, unless you walk in there waving a huge wad of cash. there is a very well known document called the "rap sheet" (aka rappaport sheet) which is published weekly and lists the wholesale prices for various grades and types of diamonds. if you know even a little, you can get a jeweler to give you 5% over rap, which is hardly a huge margin compared to media/software/drug companies.

    secondly, diamonds are definitely an item for which you get what you pay for. can you overpay? absolutely. but a $5000 diamond from a good retailer (like whiteflash or blue nile) is going to be twice as good as a $2500 diamond when it comes to the all-important flashyness factor (amount of light returned through the top of the stone) also, any good retailer will buy your diamond back for what you paid for it originally if you want to trade up (like the gold guy)

    third, I never understood what all the fuss was about diamonds, until I bought my fiancee (now wife) one. I'm a pretty miserly guy in general but I have to say splashing out for a 1ct SI1 with excellent cut and symmetry was an amazingly good decision (for me) in retrospect. she gets complements on it every day (years later), and, sad to say EVERYONE JUDGES OUR RELATIONSHIP BASED ON THE FRICKING ROCK. I can't tell you how many times she's heard "oh he must really love you" -- gak -- sad but true.

    finally, to get a bit of historical perspective, the fall of DeBeers has been predicted for quite some time now.. I recommend Ed Epstein's fantastic article from The Atlantic.. if you don't look at the date you might think it was just published: http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/198202/diamond and for those who want a fantastic and unbiased source for diamond info, I highly recommend http://www.pricescope.com/

  14. Pearls by jenara · · Score: 5, Informative

    You can also tell real pearls from fake ones by rubbing them against your teeth. The real ones feel grainy (like sand) and the fake ones are smooth. I'm a big fan of pearls, and the thought of them dissolving in vinegar makes my skin crawl.