Using The GIMP (or Photoshop) to Improve Photos?
Nom du Keyboard asks: "Is it possible to use The GIMP (or Photoshop) to improve my digital photos? I have a mid-range 7.1MP Olympus camera capable of shooting in Raw mode. When I inspected a section of clear blue sky on a bright, sunny day (which I've long believed to be relatively good reference of uniform color and brightness) I was surprised (disappointed, since I expect digital perfection) at the variance in adjacent pixels. It's also a quick way to identify any bad pixels. Surprisingly, actual photos from this camera look pretty good despite this variance so far. Moving on from that point it led me to wonder that, if you shot a uniform white surface, perhaps blurred as much as possible to avoid any imperfections in the surface itself, could a correction (adjustment) layer be created in GIMP or Photoshop exactly tuned to your camera that fixed the variations in your CCD sensor and improved the image quality in the process. Any thoughts?"
What you describe is normal, and your question exhibits a lack of understanding about white ballence.
essentially, if your white is right, then all the other colors will be as well. your camera has several settings to compinsate for various light types (Tungsten, Flourescent, Daylight)Yours is probably set to AWB (Auto) which is easy - as the camera will figure it out pretty well and a Custom - which you can configure based on the lighting by shooting a grey card - which is a card that is 15% grey (Or there abouts) that the camera can then use to figure out what true white is.
The variation in pixels can also be the result of the ISO setting you are using. 100 has the least noise, but also requires longer exposures. higher settings react faster, but have more noise (400,800,1600) This is a tradeoff between desigered exposure and ambiant light.
I would suggest reading Strobist for more on lighting. There are also several other sites dedicated to post processing images, that you may find helpfull. it also might be worth looking at the various pool discucssion groups on Fliker.
-Peter
Using the sky or a white piece of paper may be interesting, but it probably won't give you anything you can use to calibrate the rest of your photos.
A better bet for isolating the noise your camera generates is to take completely black photos, using the lens cap and some extra covering (and a dark room) to make sure absolutely no light hits the sensors. This will let you make raw images of the "dark noise" and "bias noise" that your camera generates, and subtract those images from your real photos before doing any other processing.
Details of this method can be found here: http://photo.net/learn/dark_noise/.
You're almost right. The method you're using is called Dark Frame Subtraction. The idea is that you photography the non-random noise inherent in the sensor and then take that out of the captured images. To do this, you make an image that is completely black (i.e. body cap on the front of the camera and viewfinder cover on the back) at the same temperature conditions and for the same length of shutter speed as the image you are trying to fix. Then you add that as a layer in photoshop, subtract it from the real image, and the non-random noise disappears.
However, it is MUCH more likely that the noise you are complaining about is random thermal noise, which is not treatable via Dark Frame Subtraction. Because it's, well, random noise, it'll be different in every shot. There are several photoshop plugins that can address this issue. In my opinion, the most effective and easiest to use of them is Noise Ninja.