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Cambered Tires Can Improve Fuel Economy

thecarchik writes with an excerpt from Green Car Reports: "We already know that it's possible to curb your fuel consumption just by having your tires properly inflated, or better yet, installing a set of low rolling-resistance tires, however, soon there may be an additional avenue to look at when picking the most fuel efficient rubber for your ride. The answer is the camber of your tires, more specifically, the negative camber. This is when the tops of your car's tires are angled inwards towards the chassis. Of course, there are negative effects too — namely increased tire wear and impaired ride quality — which is why production cars almost always have zero camber." The linked article, as well as the New York Times article from which it draws, describe a new tire which is designed to minimize those negative effects.

21 of 317 comments (clear)

  1. How? by Sarten-X · · Score: 5, Insightful

    How does this help fuel economy? More to the point, how is this story anything but an advertisement for some guy's new tire?

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    1. Re:How? by DevConcepts · · Score: 5, Informative

      In a pure theory aspect, less tire on the road, less rolling resistance.

    2. Re:How? by thesupraman · · Score: 5, Informative

      Sigh, go and learn something you retard.

      They dont, any competent and not class limited suspension design dynamically adjusts camers in corners to develop the desired cornering camber, while not causing issues in strange line.

      A lot of moronic 'boy racers' like to think a ton of negative camber is the sign of a race car, mainly because some suspensions designs develop a lot of un-adjustable negative camber when cars are over-lowerd.. This of course is terrible for handling (but they like to think it is not.) but since those cars cannot have it adjusted out with spending real money....

      And F1 most certainly does NOT run static negative camber, it would be a disaster for straight-line handling. They run DYANMIC camber in corners due to the uneven A arm suspension geometries.

      I suggest you start here.

      http://www.amazon.com/Competition-Car-Suspension-Construction-Motoring/dp/085429645X
      http://books.sae.org/book-pt-90

    3. Re:How? by JWSmythe · · Score: 5, Insightful

          Race cars are made to turn quickly. Street cars are made to drive on relatively straight roads. There's a huge difference in the setup of the vehicle.

          Oval track cars give negative camber to the right side, and 0 camber on the left. That's because they always turn left. They even adjust their brake systems to assist in this (more braking power on the left side). As the car turns left, the body rolls to the right, shifting the weight to the right, and increasing the surface area on the right contacting the track.

          Street track cars (like Formula 1) expect to turn both left and right, so they get negative camber on both sides. Regardless of the direction they turn, the body rolls (much less, but it still does), and the weight is transferred to the outside of the turn. As that happens, the negative camber comes closer to 0. At a stop, sure it looks odd. In practice, it's what keeps them on the track.

          If you set up a race car like a street car (0 camber), you would see a race car that fails to perform as well as its peers.

          If you set up a street car like a race car, you'll be able to corner a lot better, but you'll reduce your braking ability in straight line stops, and your tires will wear significantly faster.

          With the negative camber tires, as the body rolls, they'll suffer the same fate. Instead of riding on the largest part of the tire (the tread), they'll roll up onto the outer edge.

          We won't see these tires showing up on production cars any time soon. If they are even produced, they'll be a sad fad like the Aquatred tires. The original version (circa 1991) They increased resistance to hydroplaning, but reduced overall traction due to less surface area contacting the road. The better innovation was improved groove patterns to reduce hydroplaning while still maintaining a large contact area. The Aquatred II and Aquatred III kept the brand name (and hype), but operate like a normal tire with good tread patterns.

          If this does make it to market, I'd shelve it right along with the fuel line magnets that align the atoms of the gasoline (or whatever); the electric supercharger that is only a marine bilge fan; and my all time favorite the battery cover insert for your cell phone that will increase your signal by 1000%.

          I'd never compare it to a tinfoil hat though, those really work. Aliens, nor the government, have ever read my thoughts from space. :)

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    4. Re:How? by Sycraft-fu · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Also I wish that people would stop looking at how race cars do things and assume that it is good. Race cars are specialized machines designed for a specific purpose. They are good at what they do, but that doesn't mean they are good at everything.

      For example you would find that many kinds of race cars would have real trouble handling on normal roads. They rely on the downforce generated by their high speeds and the heat changing the properties of their tires. On regular surface streets and speeds, they don't perform so well.

      Likewise you wouldn't want a racing engine. Not only could you not use it but those things aren't built for longevity. The cars badly tear themselves up over the course of a race. The engines are pushed to extremes. However they needn't survive for more than a single race, another one can be had next time around. Wouldn't be so nice on a regular car though (even though it would last longer due to being used less intensely).

      If you want to drive a car on the street then, well, you want a street car. It turns out the engineers behind them are usually fairly savvy and the design decisions are made for a reason. This includes things like the camber of the wheels.

      If you are going to race a car, great, then you probably do want to modify it and there are some cool classes of racing purely on modified street cars. However realize that it is expensive, and generally you have to do a good deal of mods for it to be worthwhile. Don't just lower your car and think that matters to any real degree. While lowering the suspension is likely to be something done in converting a car for racing, that doesn't mean that lowering it alone is going to get you anything driving around town, other than some scrapes from speed bumps.

      And really, if what you want is more performance in a street car, you just need to spend more and buy a more performance street car. Go get an Audi S4 or something. It'll have more power and speed than you can use on any street outside of the autobahn.

    5. Re:How? by LurkerXXX · · Score: 4, Informative

      Also I wish that people would stop looking at how race cars do things and assume that it is good.

      No one said a negative camber is good in all circumstances just because most sports cars use it. Heck, on Indy cars, they often have positive camber on one side of the car because they always turn one direction. Even among racers, they adjust the amount of camber by what type of course they are going to be racing on. In many cases for every day personal cars, 0 or close to 0 camber is the best setting, for others a slight negative camber is going to work best. The point was not that every car should use negative camber. It's that saying "negative camber is a a design defect" is moronic.

    6. Re:How? by Lotana · · Score: 5, Insightful

      In a pure theory aspect, less tire on the road, less rolling resistance.

      Now I am completely new to this whole area, so please don't flame me too hard if what I ask is something stupid and obvious.

      It is logical that less friction, less power is needed to keep the wheel spinning. But in poor, wet or icy conditions I need every unit of friction possible for safety (Aside: What is the unit of measure for friction?). Therefore, isn't this new tire design makes it more difficult for me to brake and thus more hazardous?

      Saving me money in fuel is good, but if some child runs out in front of my car on local road and I can't stop in time with these tires...

    7. Re:How? by chrylis · · Score: 4, Informative

      The coefficient of friction is dimensionless; it's the ratio of the maximum frictional force (opposing motion) to the force pressing the two objects together (such as the upper object's weight).

  2. Re:"Negative Effects" by JazzyJ · · Score: 5, Informative

    Perhaps you should get your shocks replaced....

  3. Exaggerated? by grantek · · Score: 5, Insightful

    TFA is light on details, and I fail to see how anything other than zero camber can be optimal for straight-line travel. I can see how it could reduce rolling resistance during cornering (in the same way it improves grip), but if you're looking to improve braking as the article claims, I'd be looking at caster (angling the wheel forward like the front wheel of a "chopped" motorbike) before camber.

  4. A little help by gmhowell · · Score: 5, Funny

    I don't really understand TFA. Could someone post a car analogy for me?

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  5. No fuel efficiency bonus by Sierran · · Score: 4, Informative

    The summary and the article it was taken from are misleading and poorly written. They only use the term 'fuel efficiency' to describe one possible effect of mucking around with your tires in general, probably by increasing their pressure or using harder tires. However, the CamberTire appears to have nothing to do with tire rigidity - and hence fuel economy - whatsoever. What the article appears to describe is a tire which is optimized by shape for negative camber, in order to improve handling of the vehicle, without the faster tire wear that putting negative camber on regular symmetrical tires produces.

    WIth negative camber, the tire will be able to withstand more lateral force since it is angled out at the bottom, 'into' the turns. Thus it will be able to corner harder without losing grip.

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  6. When it is a car thing.. by Junta · · Score: 5, Funny

    It has to be a computer analogy. This is kinda like when you are uploading files, but need them to go faster. You do that by leaning the computer back so the bits flow out of the back of it faster. Same deal here.

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  7. Re:"Negative Effects" by aoteoroa · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I wonder if the increased fuel efficiency is simply the result of creating a smaller contact patch for the tires and reducing the rolling resistance. Maybe the same result could be acheived by using skinnier tires...but they wouldn't look as cool.

  8. Re:I bet they work even better... by tsalmark · · Score: 4, Funny

    Sir, I do believe you've been sold.

  9. Re:"Negative Effects" by Lt.Hawkins · · Score: 4, Insightful

    if thats so... I don't want one (or four?). I want larger contact patches for better stopping. Screw 1 MPG, I don't want to hit that kid / dog / train that ran out in front of me.

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  10. Re:BMWs, Minis by aXis100 · · Score: 4, Funny

    The salesman must have loved you. Would you like some special monster cable for your headlights too?

    I can do posted speeds on my $110 tyres, pretty sure it's not that lofty a goal.

  11. Re:BMWs, Minis by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    Whether he needed it or not is debatable, but the points about different front/back tires and unidirectional tread are not snake oil.

    Particularly in rear-wheel drive cars, it is not uncommon for the drive wheels (which need to apply torque) to be wider, while the steering wheels (which may need to cut through water/snow) are narrower.

    Unidirectional tread is less common, but it does help reduce hydroplaning.

    If you have just one of these, you can still move your tires in one direction (not full rotation, but front/back or side/side). If you have both, you have to keep your tires in the same location.

  12. Except it's not just racers by poptones · · Score: 4, Informative

    I was a mech for many years and grew up in Detroit. Just about ewveryone I knew worked in the auto industry, and I myself worked in the auto industry as an engineer.

    And just about every car I have ever worked on or known about specifies some amount of negative camber right from the factory. You can call this anedote if you like, but the fact is I've worked on LOTS of cars and seen a LOT of specs and have seen zero or positive camber specified on a car so few times I could probably count them all on one hand.

      Because it's NOT just about how the car grips in the corners, but how it handles in a straight line; Too much negative camber will make the car twitchy as it bump steers over every wave or truck rut, but NO negative camber also makes the steering feel lighter, which is also not a good thing when it means the car has absolutely no "return to center" correction. Any rear wheel drive car will try (to some degree) to straighten itself out, but half a degree to two degrees (depends on car) negative camber is pretty much standard. Part of this is also because cars tend to get knocked out of alignment because of neglect, and POSITIVE camber is really no fun - it tends to make the car even more vague in steering. So a little negative camber is built in just to help make certain things don't go positive.Of course too much is also no fun, since it will make the car try to steer away from the crown in the road and heavily crowned roads will make you feel like the front end is badly out of alignment (because it is).

    The same holds true for caster: toe the front wheels out a bit and the thing will wander all over the place; toe them in and the car will tend to center itself. Both of these also will tend to increase friction as well, which also it seems would negatively affect mileage. Given many cars nowdays run on low profile tires inflated to 40psi or more I have a hard time believing it's going to make much difference on a properly tuned and aligned vehicle, however.

    1. Re:Except it's not just racers by mungtor · · Score: 5, Informative

      The same holds true for caster: toe the front wheels out a bit and the thing will wander all over the place; toe them in and the car will tend to center itself. Both of these also will tend to increase friction as well, which also it seems would negatively affect mileage. Given many cars nowdays run on low profile tires inflated to 40psi or more I have a hard time believing it's going to make much difference on a properly tuned and aligned vehicle, however.

      I'm hoping you just mis-spoke here, or that you're not a suspension engineer. Caster and toe are completely different entities. Toe is whether your tires are pointed inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out) when viewed from the top. Caster is a measurement of how far the center of the contact patch is behind the steering axis. Caster is what makes the wheel want to straighten out. Both toe and caster are much more important for straight line stability than camber is.

  13. Re:I bet they work even better... by zippthorne · · Score: 4, Funny

    True that. I fill all my tires with a low-grade nitrogen mix (only about 20% impurities.)

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