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Ask Slashdot: What Equipment and Furniture For an Electronics Hardware Lab?

bartoku writes "Slashdot, what would you put in your dream electronics hardware lab? I am putting one together, and I'm looking for suggestions on everything from equipment to furniture. My aim is for a professional-grade setup, not just a hobby lab. The goal is to be able to test and debug modern electronic device prototypes. I would love to see money-is-no-objective suggestions alongside more economically practical solutions. Links or contacts for good distributors to acquire the equipment and furniture are also welcome. I'm also interested in commentary on renting versus buying new or used higher-end equipment to be economical and keep up with equipment that will become obsolete quickly."

208 comments

  1. There's a great Australian with the answer by RaySnake · · Score: 5, Informative

    Check out David Jones' EEVblog, particularly episode 168. http://www.eevblog.com/

    1. Re:There's a great Australian with the answer by Joce640k · · Score: 1

      Get a chair/floor that molten solder doesn't stick to.

      Also, make sure you get a few bunny suits to wear while you're working. You want to look the part, right?

      --
      No sig today...
    2. Re:There's a great Australian with the answer by Dogbertius · · Score: 3, Insightful
      This is how I have mine set up. It's pretty sweet, especially if you like doing board and circuit design from scratch:
      • Heavy bench with vice press
      • Large desk-mounted magnifying glass with built-in lighting (for assembling small parts)
      • Soldering bench area with a multi-arm alligator clip apparatus
      • Fume hood
      • Acid etching tank
      • Drill press (I use a set that converts a Dremel tool into a press, fun fun)
      • Dremel tool (even if you have a "proper" drill press, the cutting and sanding attachments are helpful; don't forget various sizes of collets or just get a chuck)
      • Mini beer fridge
      • Emergency sink
      • Concrete floor (the garage/basement area is ideal so you can install a drain in the floor)
      • Tool set (wire strippers, tweezers, cutters)

      This setup lets me basically mass produce home-made circuit boards in a safe and comfortable setting. I also have a really old TV (think it's from the 80's) which I keep on life support and have a TON of adapters connected to it so that it gets cable. Just kind of like that retro radioactive glare :)

    3. Re:There's a great Australian with the answer by crutchy · · Score: 1

      australians don't have problems with their penis size... we are the envy of everyone else and the reason why penis pumps are so popular overseas

    4. Re:There's a great Australian with the answer by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The direct link to my video in question is here:
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_PbjbRaO2E

      Dave.

    5. Re:There's a great Australian with the answer by crutchy · · Score: 1

      what, no cnc router? pathetic

  2. Debugging prototypes? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Isn't most "debugging" done in simulation software before you make a prototype?

    1. Re:Debugging prototypes? by viperidaenz · · Score: 1

      Yes, in the imaginary world where simulations are perfect.

    2. Re:Debugging prototypes? by solidraven · · Score: 3, Informative

      Yes and no. In the case of digital logic you can write a model in VHDL, Verilog or whatever floats your boat. And then do functional verification on that. Dump it in a FPGA or hope your computer is fast enough. But for analog circuits it's not as easy. SPICE can give you a pretty good idea, but it's not perfect. Even more advanced programs like ADS won't give you the full picture. As the final step you will always need to actually make a prototype and just hope it works.
      So yes you can test small parts of the design, but a large design can't be simulated without significant computing resources.

    3. Re:Debugging prototypes? by asynchronous13 · · Score: 2

      But for analog circuits it's not as easy. SPICE can give you a pretty good idea, but it's not perfect. Even more advanced programs like ADS won't give you the full picture. As the final step you will always need to actually make a prototype and just hope it works.

      Sorry, but if your final step is to "just hope it works" then your design is incomplete. For example, I designed an optical to electrical amplifier in the late 90's as part of the fiber optic communication system on the ISS. It was a pencil and paper design, and the first prototype worked as expected. I can guarantee what the circuit will do for any input that is within spec.

      With modern computer simulation tools a designer can absolutely expect an analog circuit to behave as the simulation does. If not, the model is incorrect, or the simulation tools are not being used properly.

    4. Re:Debugging prototypes? by grim4593 · · Score: 1

      The hard part is if you use something like a microcontroller. The code being run can be very difficult or impossible to simulate properly if you are doing anything non-trivial with I/O. Yes, you can test each section of hardware separately but in the end you still need to ensure it functions together as a whole.

    5. Re:Debugging prototypes? by solidraven · · Score: 2

      All models are abstractions and linearizations of reality. Assuming that your simulation software will tell you exactly if it's work is a pipe dream. Even if your math is correct and your simulation says it'll work you'll often run into problem. Even if it's something stupid. Like a few years ago we spent a week debugging a stupid OLED screen. Turns out that we had to move a PCB trace 1mm to make it work, but in that position it was causing too much noise. The manufacturer of the OLED panel never mentioned that in their datasheets or application notes. Nor did they actually know it until we contacted them. Needless to say simulation was useless at finding that problem.
      Another area particularly fond to me is MRI coil design. Good luck simulating that. There's so much going on, the system is too complex to model. You can only give a guess at what's going to happen. Yes I can design the coil and transmission system adhering to the necessary specifications. But it turns out if you put it next to a high power transmitter inside a 3T magnetic field you'll run into things behaving not quite as expected. And no amount of simulation ever really catches those weird little quirks (we even modeled the inside of the transistors we used in the pre-amplifier in case you were wondering). There are just too many obscure effects that you can't quite predict until you put it together and try, even when you test it part by part in simulation. It's more than about bandwidth and amplification mind you. The NF has to be correct, you have to avoid coupling, and so on. Though it has made me a better designer by a huge margin in the long run. But that's experience preventing the errors instead of simulation and testing.

    6. Re:Debugging prototypes? by solidraven · · Score: 1

      Actually I disagree on that, if you're working with digital I/O you can model most of the things in VHDL and Verilog quite well as long as you stay under the 200 MHz line, then you have to start looking at transmission lines and then it does become complicated again.

    7. Re:Debugging prototypes? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      No way to get that stuff without pirating it.
      A single seat of something like Cadence probably costs more than the house.

    8. Re:Debugging prototypes? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Transmission line effects can kick in well below 200MHz, it's dependent on the characteristic impedance of the line, the geometry (stubs, etc), the distance, impedance matching, and rise/fall times.

    9. Re:Debugging prototypes? by grim4593 · · Score: 1

      How can you use VHDL to model a microcontroller such as an Atmel AVR, Microchip PIC, TI MSP430, Freescale S12, etc.?

      Even if you can model the rest of a mixed analog and digital circuit the microcontroller becomes a black box that you have to assume works correctly with all the other components.

    10. Re:Debugging prototypes? by solidraven · · Score: 1

      Well, you have to assume the manufacturer made the IC correctly (and this is usually the case, especially for simple things like those microcontrollers).
      Simulation software is available for all of those, based on that you can make a model on RTL level that reads a binary memory dump. The model will behave exactly like the microcontroller assuming you write it correctly. And if you resort to the 8051 (like you should in a lot of cases to be frank) you can find hundreds of VHDL models for free on the internet.

    11. Re:Debugging prototypes? by crutchy · · Score: 1

      i think the question was more how can you be sure the simulated black box will match the real one?

    12. Re:Debugging prototypes? by solidraven · · Score: 1

      You can't, you can model it, you can try to simulate parts of it. But a design with thousands of transistors isn't very feasible to simulate. That's why you model it layer by layer and abstract further and further.

    13. Re:Debugging prototypes? by crutchy · · Score: 1

      simple things like those microcontrollers

      maybe those little 8-bit AVR things, but i think some manage to cram a fair few of the features that you would find in a conventional PC mainboard into a fraction of the real estate... micros may have started out simple, but i think the evolution of microcontrollers will eventually make the conventional CPU obsolete, which is why Intel is shitting it's pants (because it's entire business hinges on its past OEM deals with help from Microsoft) and why AMD branched out by acquiring ATI.

    14. Re:Debugging prototypes? by solidraven · · Score: 1

      You're dead wrong. Most of the things we make are still based on very simple microcontrollers.
      There's a 8051 in almost every single device out there as a USB host controller. It's simply a very simple and common design, very useful and easy to modify according to your needs. Simplicity wins over complexity in most applications. Simple systems are less likely to break and easier to debug. We only add such functionality if it's found to be necessary.

  3. Depends what you're working on... by wisewellies · · Score: 4, Insightful

    There are a number of pieces of equipment which should be in any lab setup - e.g. oscilloscope, voltmeter/ammeter, decent bench power supply, soldering iron and proper illumination. What you need after that will depend much more on the kind of electronics that you want to work on - digital, analogue, RF etc. Each needs a different set of equipment. Personally, I work in the digital domain, and find a fast logic analyser invaluable for diagnosing difficult problems. I would also include a dedicated bench computer (or two), and large, deep benches with overhead shelves. You can't have too much space. Of course the most important piece of equipment is your brain - no piece of equipment is going to replace your ability to think through a problem.

    1. Re:Depends what you're working on... by xQx · · Score: 5, Funny

      You also will need the following:

      1. A van der graaf generator
      2. A very powerful degaussing Coil
      3. A glass still

      1. Because if you're spending heaps of time in an electronics lab, you're sometimes going to have visitors and it never hurts to show them something theatrical.
      2. Because you never know when you need to destroy information.
      3. Because if you're testing and doing R&D on electronics stuff for any length of time, you will know it doesn't always work the way it should, and for those instances a home-made stiff drink never goes astray.

    2. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Most importantly ... a Jacobs ladder for setting the mood!

    3. Re:Depends what you're working on... by ebbe11 · · Score: 3, Informative
      To this have added:
      • AC Outlets with real earth ground
      • A grounded ESD conductive mat
      --

      My opinion? See above.
    4. Re:Depends what you're working on... by DMUTPeregrine · · Score: 1, Informative

      1 is ok, but a Tesla coil or Jacob's Ladder would be a better bet.

      --
      Not a sentence!
    5. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Joce640k · · Score: 1

      Also a lab coat, some burnt corks for face-blacking and plenty of hair gel.

      --
      No sig today...
    6. Re:Depends what you're working on... by viperidaenz · · Score: 1

      A opposed to fake earth grounded mains? Houses usually have a 2 metre earthing rod shoved in to the ground...

    7. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Joce640k · · Score: 1

      Houses usually have a 2 metre earthing rod shoved in to the ground...

      Does that work in very dry places?

      --
      No sig today...
    8. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Joce640k · · Score: 1

      I nearly forgot.... make sure to leave at least two feet between the lightning conductor coming down from the roof and any electrostatic sensitive devices.

      --
      No sig today...
    9. Re:Depends what you're working on... by necro81 · · Score: 1

      AC Outlets with real earth ground

      Though you will want to have one or two adapter plugs (cheaters) lying around, to bypass the earth ground in certain equipment. I have run into problems where my scope's earth ground caused problems in circuits I was trying to measure. For certain things, it is fine to have equipment floating. I would not recommend that for your power supply! Better would be to have a power supply that had isolated outputs, with an additional connection available for earth ground.

    10. Re:Depends what you're working on... by jones_supa · · Score: 1

      A opposed to fake earth grounded mains? Houses usually have a 2 metre earthing rod shoved in to the ground...

      There is also a method where you dig a copper ring around the house. But yeah, I suppose there are differences by countries and buildings of how it is done.

    11. Re:Depends what you're working on... by vlm · · Score: 3, Informative

      A opposed to fake earth grounded mains?

      Yes exactly. A "3-hole outlet" will work perfectly well at powering things if you don't hook up the ground. Its ungrounded, but you won't find out until something shorts to a chassis and you get electrocuted.

      Another prime failure mode for older houses is relying on conduit for ground path and having j6p previous loanowner replace or remove a chunk of the conduit leading. No more ground anymore.

      One funny failure mode of conduit grounds is not being able to source/sink 15 amps to blow the circuit breaker. Been there seen that. So hot wire shorts to chassis, resistance of the ground path is so immense from poor/corroded connections that it only drops 10 amps or so, until the fire starts or someone gets electrocuted anyway.

      Finally IF you're doing analog or analog-ish stuff and you think grounding will cut down on noise, a "bad ground" might act as an antenna and make it even worse.

      You can buy a little plug in doohickey from home depot or whatever that costs like $5 full of neon bulbs that will tell you if an outlet has power, if the outlet has hot-neutral reversed, and if theres a ground. You could build one in about 10 minutes using a little project box and a fat stack of 120 volt lamp/indicators/neons/whatever. The point being that you better not have 120VAC between neutral and ground, etc.

      I would estimate from experience that given "normal lifestyle" with J6P fooling around with his own house wiring that about 5% of outlets will get mis-wired per decade, unless J6P had an electrician buddy or was smart enough to drop $5 on the little outlet tester lamp thingy.

      So now that I've explained how having a 3-prong outlet doesn't mean you have a ground at all, we can move on to explaining exactly how, why, and when you need an isolation transformer on your test bench. The answer is short, if you can't explain, in detail, exactly whats going on WRT ground loops or floating gear to do HV work, you are not supposed to be using that stuff (TLDR is sometimes "grounded" test equipment needs to be "ungrounded", although its somewhat risky sometimes its the only way).

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    12. Re:Depends what you're working on... by vlm · · Score: 1

      Houses usually have a 2 metre earthing rod shoved in to the ground...

      Does that work in very dry places?

      UFER ground basically bond to the rebar in the concrete floor. Concrete, you see, covers a rather large area, like the size of the house, and fundamentally never really dries out (well, maybe in the deepest desert, but what idiot lives there). This has the charming feature of sometimes physically exploding when lightning hits... and the only way to really know if it'll blow up or not is to personally bond the rebar (arc welding rebar together is not going too far) and pour the slab yourself...

      Also if you think a 2 meter rod gets pounded into the ground when no one's looking and you've got a way to chop it in half therefore much less than 1/2 the labor, I got a bridge to sell ya

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    13. Re:Depends what you're working on... by aaarrrgggh · · Score: 3, Informative

      A real ground is nice, but if you are working with an ESD strap, please make sure to have all the bench outlets on GFCI!!

      Don't do anything really really stupid like driving a ground rod just for your lab and tying your ground pin to that; make sure it is bonded to the main ground.

    14. Re:Depends what you're working on... by rvw · · Score: 1

      Also a lab coat, some burnt corks for face-blacking and plenty of hair gel.

      A good set of glasses!

    15. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Neil+Boekend · · Score: 2

      One funny failure mode of conduit grounds is not being able to source/sink 15 amps to blow the circuit breaker. Been there seen that. So hot wire shorts to chassis, resistance of the ground path is so immense from poor/corroded connections that it only drops 10 amps or so, until the fire starts or someone gets electrocuted anyway.

      That's why ground fault circuit interrupter should always be required. If the difference in current between the ingoing wire and the outgoing wire is to big (30 mA is the default for a house in the Netherlands) it shuts the power off. They are not cheap, but cheaper than a funeral.

      --
      Well, I might have a way, but it only works on a semi spherical planet in a vacuum.
    16. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Lost+Penguin · · Score: 4, Funny

      The lift that opens the roof, for the body to be charged by the lightning....

      --
      I am the unwilling control for my Origin.
    17. Re:Depends what you're working on... by tuxicle · · Score: 1

      Instead of isolation transformers, you could use two scope channels and the subtract function. It works well enough for low-speed work. Probably won't capture transients and anything beyond about 1 MHz, though.

    18. Re:Depends what you're working on... by mnemotronic · · Score: 2

      Aye. And a goot Scotish oxcent.

      --
      The Russians have won. They have made the world a cesspool of distrust, greed, fear and hate.
    19. Re:Depends what you're working on... by bartoku · · Score: 1

      Any suggestions on a specific logic analyzer brand or model to use or avoid?

    20. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      New houses, sure. In older houses, fake earth grounded mains are quite common (i.e., the ground prong goes nowhere, because some amateur electrician swapped out the 2-prong outlets for 3-prong outlets since so many things need the third prong).

    21. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not if you are working with hundreds of volts. You will blow the piss out of the expensive scope...

    22. Re:Depends what you're working on... by viperidaenz · · Score: 1

      Because the regulations in my country say so. I rounded the 1.8m up to 2m. The earthing conductor is usually 1.8m of 16mm galvanised steel. In conditions where this doesn't provide an adequate earth up to 15m of 16mm2 bare copper cable is buried more than 0.5m underground.

      I'd provide a citation but it costs money to download the AS/NZS3000 standards.

    23. Re:Depends what you're working on... by viperidaenz · · Score: 1

      Also if you think a 2 meter rod gets pounded into the ground when no one's looking and you've got a way to chop it in half therefore much less than 1/2 the labor, I got a bridge to sell ya

      If it doesn't pass the tests the electrical inspector does, it'll be getting done again and someone will have to pay for another inspection and wait for it to be done before any power gets connected.

    24. Re:Depends what you're working on... by viperidaenz · · Score: 1

      I live in a country with electrical safety standards and 240V mains. You can't even buy a 2 electrode socket to stick on the wall unless its a 120V shaving plug with a built in isolated transformer and an RCD.

      If you burn your house down because there was no earth lead connected to the mains socket, I doubt your insurance will pay out. You'll probably get a fine for not having electrical work inspected too.

    25. Re:Depends what you're working on... by viperidaenz · · Score: 1

      I'm glad I don't live in USA then, or any country where there has ever been 2-prong outlets.

    26. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Isn't that most countries? What country has always had a three-prong outlet, unless it's some country that only recently became electrified? The European plugs, for instance, are a total mess with the Schuko plug which has many variants (which are made to interchange, but the grounding prongs were added later, just like we did in the USA), the Italian plug, the two-prong Europlug, etc. So inevitably in old buildings you're going to find old wiring in places where they didn't have the extra ground wire and no one bothered to rewire it properly or screwed up.

    27. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I've had good results with http://www.saleae.com/. USB logic analyzer with quite a few protocols, exports to .csv. 8-channel for $150, 16-channel for $300.

    28. Re:Depends what you're working on... by slick7 · · Score: 1

      To this have added:

      Baling wire
      Duct tape
      Chewing gum
      17 coat hangers
      Hot food machine with Hot Pockets
      Cold food machine full of Red Bull

      --
      The mind conceives, the body achieves, the spirit manifests.
    29. Re:Depends what you're working on... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      isolation transformer, so you can gladly ignore grounded outlets.

      jr

    30. Re:Depends what you're working on... by shiftless · · Score: 0

      So because "the regulations say so", that automatically means every house in your country has a perfectly done earth ground, into the proper ground, no exceptions? Even in houses which have been tampered with, with amateur wiring jobs and wear and tear on components? A proper ground in a particular instance is determined by a multimeter and the laws of physics, not regulations.

    31. Re:Depends what you're working on... by viperidaenz · · Score: 1

      New Zealand.

  4. Good luck by solidraven · · Score: 2

    Well, obviously you might want to avoid metal. You can get these great plates for lab table surfaces made from some sort of ceramic. It's heat resistant and pretty tough, which is really necessary if a SMPS decides to hit the self destruct button. For soldering, just get a wooden board to protect the surface from direct impact with a soldering iron.
    Miniature drawer cabinets are important and actually rather expensive, especially those that can be stacked.
    Good soldering irons (more than one!) are a must obviously. Get both an analog and digital scope with at least 2 channels each. More is better. Personally I like putting a computer near my electronics workbench to view schematics, considered investing in a large TV for that but I'm a bit short on cash for that.
    You want several supplies, current limited and not. Isolation transformers, a good variac, signal/function generators.
    Good to have as well are an impedance meter/Q meter, network analyser, spectrum analyser and logic analyser. Especially the latter is worth considering, you can get pretty cheap versions these days that you hook up to a computer. For the other devices I advice stand alone versions cause it's really a lot easier while measuring if you can play with the knobs to home in on what you actually need. If you have more than enough money also get one of those microcontroller programmers with several sockets, that thing has saved my life more often than not.
    Anyway, good luck!

    1. Re:Good luck by vlm · · Score: 1

      For soldering, just get a wooden board

      Easily replaceable wooden board. The problem is not so much using the iron as a woodburning tool as holding down two wires by laying a hammer on then, soldering the wires, then having a permanent pool of flux in/on the wood.

      If it all possible make life easy on yourself.... you can get a sheet of 1/4 particle board and drop that right on the desk without even cutting. Avoid glare, do not paint, or use floor tiles, or use an old kitchen granite countertop or whatever.

      In my dad's, well, grandpa's vacuum tube era a sheet of glass was a good idea other than shattering. Too much static to safely do anything post 1970 and too much glare.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    2. Re:Good luck by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      As far as soldering irons go, MPJA sells a decent 50 dollar Chinese unit with interchangeable tips. I've used it for a few months, and it's great! If money is no object, get a Metcal. The tips are outrageously expensive, but if you're doing a lot of rework or building, the fast heat up and huge heat transfers are totally worth it.

      Also, get a hot air rework station. MPJA sells one for about a hundred bucks. It's basically a glorified hot air gun, but with different nozzles or removing surface mount parts. If you're doing anything involving SMD, you need one.

  5. Knife switches, Nixie tubes, Jacob's ladders by fotoguzzi · · Score: 2

    Then lightly sprinkle with integrated circuits.

    --
    Their they're doing there hair.
    1. Re:Knife switches, Nixie tubes, Jacob's ladders by funwithBSD · · Score: 1

      It's.... ALIVE!!!!

      MuAHAHAHAH!!!

      --
      Never answer an anonymous letter. - Yogi Berra
    2. Re:Knife switches, Nixie tubes, Jacob's ladders by thatskinnyguy · · Score: 1

      Don't forget a room for all of your relays! And if you could somehow figure out how to water jacket the vacuum tubes, you could have radiant heat!

      --
      The game.
  6. What's it for? by backwardMechanic · · Score: 4, Insightful

    It's all nice and dandy that you want a bunch of high-end professional equipment, but what do you actually want to do with your lab? Analogue? Digital? RF? Do you want some mechanical capabilities (drilling boxes, etching/machining PCBs, CNC, 3D printing, etc)? Do you need a microscope for really small stuff?
    Rather than getting all excited about the shiny new toys, start with what you want to do. Then figure out what you need/want to help you do this. That's a question we can help with.

    1. Re:What's it for? by Dahamma · · Score: 3, Informative

      Exactly. This question seems just like a poseur question "what tools do I need to build an F1 car in my garage" or "what tools do I need to build lots of great furniture".

      As for "furniture" - get a decent bench and some shelves. What do you want, padded 60's lounge chairs to feel like a mad scientist? And then once you have said shelves and bench, once you actually find the need to DO something and don't have the tool to do it: then buy it. Stocking a home lab full of shit you'll never use is complete rich nerd masturbation exercise.

    2. Re:What's it for? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      It doesnt matter what its for... Well it does, but a high bench and stools rather than desks and chairs will be highly beneficial. It is far more comfortable to work for long periods when you don't have to bend down all day. I always preferred a single flat island surface (no joins) in the middle of the lab with plenty of power. Bigger is better.

      Plenty of racking or shelving for storing equipment and drawers or similar for smaller things.

      Oh, and a shitload of light. When you think you have enough light, double it. You can always remove half the globes/tubes, but if you don't have enluh fixtures you will be constantly working in your own shadow and that sucks.

      And every lab needs a machine that goes ping. Why it goes ping is, of course, dependent on the use of your lab.

    3. Re:What's it for? by Electricity+Likes+Me · · Score: 4, Informative

      I cannot stress lighting enough.

      Almost everyone gets it wrong, and it's the most annoying to fix after the fact. You want whatever room you're in bright - very bright, and illuminated uniformly. If you're putting in shelves or anything that occludes light, plan to have lights attached to it. You'll find yourself *much* happier later.

    4. Re:What's it for? by vlm · · Score: 2

      very bright, and illuminated uniformly

      Absolute minimum of two "desk lamps on long arms". In the 80s I had a rather expensive one with a florescent ring element wrapped around a 4 or so inch magnifying glass, kind of handy when you're doing SMD work by hand. Boy was that thing heavy and RF noisy but it was perfect for soldering. Of course back then I don't think we had 0402 components. Anyway the point is if you can see a shadow, you're doin it wrong.

      So you're troubleshooting the 3000 volt 2 amp power supply for an old tube amplifier while its powered up, and suddenly the lights go out while the supply is live. Not cool at all. Ideally you have lighting of some sort in the room on two separate power ckts. Extension cords are not safe, but they're a lot safer than trapped in the dark with a live power supply.

      Finally everyone leaves their soldering iron plugged in and running, even the christmas tree digital ones, until they set up some kind of master power switch arrangement. You've got three power strips on my desk side (3 circuits BTW), desk lighting, test equipment, and device under test and all three strips have a $2 store bought nightlight plugged in. So if a nightlight is on, the desk is powered up. Make sure you can see the nightlights, obviously, when leaving the room and never leave the room without glancing at the nightlights as a habit.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    5. Re:What's it for? by solidraven · · Score: 1

      I got several of those LED strips and hang them just above my work area from all directions. Pretty much eliminates all shadows, no noise (the power supply is a few metres away), and the only problem I can think of is that it isn't truly white light.

    6. Re:What's it for? by Mashdar · · Score: 1

      In-house CNC routing is pretty nice for board prototyping, and handy for making new solder masks, too. I strongly recommend CNC capabilities for any lab where:
      A) The cost is not an issue, and
      B) Board-level prototyping is going on.
      The cost shouldn't be an issue, considering how cheap CNC is these days compared to a good oscilloscope. And solder masking is sexy. :)

      You'd probably want a 240C capable (high melting point ROHS) solder oven. Vapor rephase is sick, but expensive. IMO stay away from laser if you are doing BGA/CGA work.

    7. Re:What's it for? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The good news is that when he dies, or goes bankrupt, we can buy it all cheap on ebay.

      I think every good lab needs is an experienced mature, LAB ASSISTANT!

      More useful than a pile of pretty lab gear!

      Stephen Walters
      Radio ham, experimenter, photographer.
      Will of IRON! Nerves of STEEL, Knob of butter.

    8. Re:What's it for? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      And my callsign is G7VFY

      Buy a new white lab coat and a decent salary and I'll jump on a plane

  7. Start from the ground up by fragMasterFlash · · Score: 4, Informative

    Conductive flooring paired with electrostatic discharge heelstraps (or better yet static dissipative shoes) will go a long way toward mitigating ESD risks in your lab. While wrist straps are effective they are inconvenient and therefore more likely not to be used consistently. Most lab furniture is conductive, but you often pay a bit extra for chairs with conductive castors. The need for lab coats depends on the apparel your lab staff typically wear (wool and synthetics should be covered with a dissipative lab coat, cottons are not typically an ESD risk).

    1. Re:Start from the ground up by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Conductive flooring paired with electrostatic discharge heelstraps (or better yet static dissipative shoes) will go a long way toward mitigating ESD risks in your lab. While wrist straps are effective they are inconvenient and therefore more likely not to be used consistently. Most lab furniture is conductive, but you often pay a bit extra for chairs with conductive castors. The need for lab coats depends on the apparel your lab staff typically wear (wool and synthetics should be covered with a dissipative lab coat, cottons are not typically an ESD risk).

      Mod parent up. This one description (the floor, chair, bench etc being ESD-dissipating) was the item #1 or so I read from the first-time lab user guide from a college electronics lab. Especially in cold weather winters where heaters extracted the last bit of moisture from air and wool clothing are not uncommon.

    2. Re:Start from the ground up by necro81 · · Score: 1

      but you often pay a bit extra for chairs with conductive castors

      Or you could dangle a bit of chain from the underside of the chair to the floor.

  8. erm... by crutchy · · Score: 5, Interesting

    money-is-no-objective suggestions

    - BlueGene/Q supercomputer
    - video wall
    - space shuttle (just in case you need some low-grav testing done)

    economically practical solutions

    - why the hell are you seeking advice from slashdot as to what to put in an "electronics hardware lab"? if you are serious about building a "professional-grade setup", a fair assumption would be that you are a professional electronics engineer and would have no difficulty rattling off the necessary equipment (such as oscilloscopes, soldering irons, power supplies, plenty of storage, etc).
    if you're merely after decorating ideas, i would suggest things that don't attract a lot of static electricity (so shag pile is out)

    1. Re:erm... by thegrassyknowl · · Score: 1

      if you're merely after decorating ideas, i would suggest things that don't attract a lot of static electricity (so shag pile is out)

      If you're making a professional lab then conductive flooring, yes.

      For a hobby lab linoleum is best. You can get good quality stuff that doesn't generate static.

      Tiles are OK at a pinch (if you already have them) and carpet of any sort is out. It's painful to wheel a chair around on tiles or carpet and if you drop little components there's lots of places for them to disappear.

      --
      I drink to make other people interesting!
    2. Re:erm... by crutchy · · Score: 1

      ...carpet... if you drop little components there's lots of places for them to disappear

      ahh the memories come flooding back

    3. Re:erm... by Vadim+Makarov · · Score: 1

      I'm a half-pro electronics engineer and I have picked a couple good suggestions here for stocking my university lab.

      --
      17779 eligible voters in a district, 17779 'vote' as one. This is Russia.
  9. Most important: Competent people by gweihir · · Score: 1

    These will then tell you what kind of equipment they would like and you better get it for them.

    Without people that know what they are doing, no amount or quality of equipment is going to make any difference, so forget about deciding without them.

    --
    Most ACs are not even worth the keystrokes to insult them. Be generically insulted by this and ignored otherwise.
  10. Flashing lights by asmkm22 · · Score: 1

    Every mad scientist has banks of "computers" with flashing lights in the back somewhere. Maybe get a tape reel as well.

    1. Re:Flashing lights by moderators_are_w*nke · · Score: 2

      Indeed relaxen und watchen das blinkenlichten

      (http://www.jargon.net/jargonfile/b/blinkenlights.html)

      --
      "XML is like violence. If it doesn't solve your problem, use more." - Anonymous Coward
  11. on the tables by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    you might want to consider glass inlays, e.g. for soldering of placing PCBs directly. It cleans nicely, and looks good also after years of abuse. Just don't hammer on it.
    Everything else should be easily cleanable, and I love to have racks behind the table, to have the table free, but still all measurement equipment, osci, power supply, soldering station and such directly usable on the table.

    Also, i would buy a small cnc machine, for milling PCBs. Its rapid prototyping only, but it saves you the latency of days for having custom single sided pcbs. Double is also possible, but more involved.

    I would go for racks for part drawer-based containers, and a rollable sidecupoard for the tools.

    1. Re:on the tables by vlm · · Score: 2

      you might want to consider glass inlays

      Static issues, although that's tediously fixable with a spray. Also horrific glare if your work is properly illuminated unless you get frosted glass, in which case this is getting kinda complicated. Finally you're gonna drop stuff and a SMD component will skip across glass like a rock skipping on water, but on wood it'll still bounce but not as far. I've been doing this stuff over 30 years... you can do a lot worse than glass, so its not an awful idea, but disposable particle board wood is better.

      Also if inlayed you need precision size, whereas just "drop a sheet of wood on the desk" requires no work, so when its inevitably utterly trashed (once a decade?) the replacement process is easier.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
  12. My dream of electronic hardware? by c0lo · · Score: 1

    (shudders)... that's not a dream, that's a nightmare.

    --
    Questions raise, answers kill. Raise questions to stay alive.
  13. Faraday cage. by Shag · · Score: 2

    Got to have one of those. To keep the neighbors from spying on your RF emissions... or whatever.

    --
    Village idiot in some extremely smart villages.
  14. Essential Electronics Laboratory Equipment by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Get some overall ideas and suggestions from:

    Essential Electronics Laboratory Equipment
    http://components.about.com/od/Design/a/Essential-Electronics-Laboratory-Equipment.htm

    if you're in the USA, some suppliers are:
    http://www.alliedelec.com/test-measurement/
    http://www.mouser.com/Test-Measurement/_/N-5gf3/

    http://www.bellnw.com/index.htm , http://www.tesales.com/
    http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/ , http://www.trs-rentelco.com/

    If this is a one-person lab, most of the equipment is going to sit unused most of the time. I'd suggest renting the more expensive stuff when you have a need for it.

     

    1. Re:Essential Electronics Laboratory Equipment by crutchy · · Score: 1

      i remember the farnell catalogue being an electronics engineer's stick magazine

      sparkfun also has some really cheap (admittedly mostly hobby) stuff, but i've also used some of their stuff in aircraft certification flight test instrumentation without issues, although the stuff was only expected to work for maybe 6 months... but hey if it's cheap, it works, and it meets requirements

  15. Easy choice by tumutbound · · Score: 0

    Step 1: Get the Agilent catalogue
    Step 2: Buy (at least) one of everything

  16. Bench and Irons by Mister+Transistor · · Score: 1

    My first suggestion would be to get a really good quality commercial grade bench with drawers and equipment shelves. Good ones will set you back 1000-2000 per workstation/seat. Also get a comfortable high chair the right height for the bench and you.

    As for soldering irons, Metcal is the shit... They are owned by OK now, but you can pick up a nice used MX500 setup for about $200-300 or so. They are absolutely wonderful - you can solder a penny to a doorknob with a TINY pencil iron! The design is RF pumped and you practically can't swamp it - it will do ceramic substrates which no normal iron can touch, and stuff you would normally need a torch to do, yet the same tiny tip won't wreck a SOT-23 SMT transistor... Super deluxe.

    If you have the luxury, shop air is also very handy to have (basement remote compressor or the like) for desoldering and cleaning up stuff it is REALLY nice and you can buy air-powered tools like screwdrivers and cutoff saws instead of electric cordless screwdrivers or Dremel tools, etc.

    I have all this but shop air on my bench at home and I LOVE working there!

    --
    -- You are in a maze of little, twisty passages, all different... --
    1. Re:Bench and Irons by serviscope_minor · · Score: 1

      As for soldering irons, Metcal is the shit...

      Also, get one of those tip cleaners made from what looks like a brass scourer. So much better than the wretched wet sponge.

      Oh, and a cheap toaster oven will do single sided reflow astonishingly well.

      --
      SJW n. One who posts facts.
    2. Re:Bench and Irons by vlm · · Score: 2

      As for soldering irons, Metcal is the shit...

      Also, get one of those tip cleaners made from what looks like a brass scourer. So much better than the wretched wet sponge.

      Hakko sells a great brass turnings soldering iron cleaner. Coincidentally they sell great soldering gear, better than Metcal at about the same price. Metcal is good, don't get me wrong, in fact its very good, its just that Hakko is better. This is the soldering equivalent of the eternal vi vs emacs battle, and just like that your best bet is to try as many brands as you can and THEN select your winner (as opposed to "the" winner). Or use what your buddies use, so you can trade/share stuff. At the higher end a lot of the parts of soldering gear are swappable to different sizes sometimes different wattages.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    3. Re:Bench and Irons by Gordonjcp · · Score: 2

      ... and Hakko is just Aoyue with an expensive sticker!

      The brass pot scourer tip cleaners are awesome.

  17. A "Silly Scope"? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Perhaps a high-pot tester area or table for basic electrical testing? Don't forget a rack to hang your coat and a wall mounted medical kit? I dunno.

  18. in the money-is-no-objective category... by ffflala · · Score: 1

    Salt-resistant desks, tables, wall-hangings, chairs, and couches.

    Because your lab is in an abandoned, forgotten salt mine.

    1. Re:in the money-is-no-objective category... by crutchy · · Score: 1

      it would be too hard to pick a name for a place like that... "Area 51" or "Deep Space 9"... how to choose?

  19. If you dont know what you want by citizenr · · Score: 5, Insightful

    then you dont need it.

    --
    Who logs in to gdm? Not I, said the duck.
    1. Re:If you dont know what you want by vlm · · Score: 2

      Assuming you know it exists.

      Did ya know, when you're reworking an old board and solder isn't sticking, rather than suffering or lifting the traces off the board, you can buy a little $3 pen flux applicator and suddenly its easy?

      Did ya know, when washing flux off a completed board, the chemists figured out "plastic wash bottle technology" decades ago? You don't have to dump denatured alcohol on a rag, or dump most of it down the drain, or have an open bottle of solvent on your desk anymore.

      Instead of icky old premade alligator clip jumpers, you can buy those fancy micro sized clamping test probe tips in bulk, and a roll of silicone superflex wire, and make your own test jumpers that are superior to crappy premade alligator clip jumpers for less money? Or at least you used to be able to do this (they last forever, more or less)

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    2. Re:If you dont know what you want by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Last time I ordered silicone superflex wire the price had gone up considerably, even for non-copper wire.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    3. Re:If you dont know what you want by bughunter · · Score: 1

      Other things that may not be obvious:

      - Solder sleeves: These are short lengths of shrink tubing with a band of solder in the middle and a band of epoxy at each end. Stick two (or more) stripped wires in each end, and hold over a heat gun, and voila, you have a sealed, insulated splice in seconds. Much easier than splicing with a soldering iron, solder, then applying heat shrink tubing or -oops- forgetting to slide the shrink tubing over one side of the splice before soldering...

      - Silver pens: for drawing traces on a PCB, acetate, or even paper.

      - Solder pumps: for evacuating molten solder out of the solder cups on connectors, thru holes in PCBs, etc. Usually spring loaded pistons with a pushbutton trigger on the side, though sometimes they look like baby's booger-sucking squeeze bulbs.

      - Citric Acid: Sold as "LemiShine" in the dishwasher aisle of grocery stores, or available in bulk from Amazon, etc. Solutions of citric acid make good, nontoxic solder flux, contact cleaner, adhesive remover and glass cleaner. (Rinse with DI water if used on copper or silver contacts.)

      --
      I can see the fnords!
  20. Shrink tubes! by LifeIs0x2A · · Score: 2

    Lots of them. In all sizes!

    No, but it pretty much depends on what your are going to be working on. I would have this pretty basic list of things:
    1. Nice four-channel color Textronics oscilloscope
    2. SMD soldering station (Maker: Gote)
    3. Fluke Multimeter
    4. Desoldering equipment
    5. Various probes
    6. Various pliers
    7. Some holder for your PCBs
    8. Magnifying glass (with light)
    9. Wires in various diameters and colors + super thin copper wire
    10. Various connectors and the equipnent to crimp them

    The rest I would get but while you are working. You will figure out what else you going to need soon enough.

    Furniture:
    1. Large (!) table in the middle of the room
    2. Cubboards with shelves
    3. Boxes and subboxes to put on these shelves with parts etc.

    Don't put too much furniture in. Space to move is important.

    If you want to do more complex stuff it might be good to get a logic analyser. But you also need to have someone who knows how to use it.

  21. pro tips by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Tables - can be used to place stuff upon or to hide underneath.

    Tesla Coil - If not for the cool visual effects, at least you could use it so your hair doesn't obstruct your field of view!

    Farrady Cage - not only for it's obvoius purpose, but also lock up people that forgot to lock their workstation while playing with the Tesla Coil

    Laser pointers, programmable Remote Controls both in IR and Ultrasound spectrum - their obvious use is for team-building. These tools are easy to conceal and can really fuck up the tests the poor outsider is running

    Bras - to be used both for Ceremonial and for head protection.

  22. Furniture! by moxsam · · Score: 1

    Don't forget that you will need a good workbench and a good chair. And lots of shelves! Heating (in case it's not inside your house or apartment) and a sink in the actual lab is nice, too.

  23. There's a few things. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Long Arm Field Microscope - For pulling splinters
    Oscilloscope - For seeing what electrical noise your finger generates
    Soldering Iron with solder sucker - For cauterising splinter wounds
    Fume Extractor - For getting rid of the fart gas
    Induction lighting - Invented by Nicola Tesla; nuff said?
    Decent Amp and Speakers - For setting the mood.

  24. Sounds like homework assignment by robi5 · · Score: 2

    It's almost as if someone asked what equipment he needs for performing bypass surgery. First requirement would be a bookshelf (to be filled with books for one's study), and second is a cabinet for keeping degrees, diplomas and continuing education. I'd love to know what motivated the question to begin with, it sounds almost eerie, esp. the professional part. Maybe a PHB who wants to monitor his engineers' purchase requests or a lottery winner with his dreams.

    1. Re:Sounds like homework assignment by shiftless · · Score: 0

      Well the answers given are useful to people, so how about not being a judgmental smartass?

    2. Re:Sounds like homework assignment by bartoku · · Score: 2

      Interesting point. I did not think people would be interested in my life story so I kept my question as brief and to the point as possible. I am an Electrical Engineer who has been doing software development for a few years. The company I work for is looking to prototype some hardware for a project. I have put together my shopping list, but I am sure I am forgetting or missing something, especially in the furniture area. I have never really had to buy such equipment since it was always in place at school or the labs I worked in. So if I was a surgeon, I did not pay much attention to the brand of the hospital bed my patients were lying on and would be interested in what other surgeons have found they like now that I need to procure my own.

    3. Re:Sounds like homework assignment by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I don't believe you.

      First, why do you capitalize "electrical engineer", when it is not a proper noun? I think it is just for show, and to try to sound more impressive.

      Second, if you were an electrical engineer, you would know what the hell you need to do your job, and you wouldn't be asking vague bullshit questions on Slashdot.

      Third, what is the point of vague details such as "prototype some hardware"? What type of hardware? Gigahertz range microprocessors? High voltage power supplies? High current motor driver? Underwater acoustic arrays? Mixed signal boards? MP3 players for kids? RF transceiver systems? Very low noise amplifiers for radio telescopes? If you were an engineer you would know that the equipment needed varies greatly for each one of those projects.

      No, I think that you are just a poseur, and nothing more.

    4. Re:Sounds like homework assignment by bartoku · · Score: 1
      Haha, perhaps I am a poser, I am for sure a sucker for a good troll; but at least I am not an Anonymous Coward today.
      In retrospect I certainly could have posed the question better.

      First, why do you capitalize "electrical engineer", when it is not a proper noun? I think it is just for show, and to try to sound more impressive.

      I typed EE instead of Electrical Engineer, then changed it, that is why they ended up capital.

      Second, if you were an electrical engineer, you would know what the hell you need to do your job, and you wouldn't be asking vague bullshit questions on Slashdot.

      A valid accusation, I admit I am a bit rusty on hardware, but primarily I was trying to be concise with the question, not vague. I could have dumped my current shopping list of soldering irons to spectrum analyzers in the post but I did not want to scare anyone off with a TLDR question. My primary objective was to get more specific suggestions, models and distributors, but not limit responses to that either. I thought it would be fun to leave things a bit more open.

      Third, what is the point of vague details such as "prototype some hardware"?

      The company I work for is still fairly young and does contract work, we have a handful of electrical engineers on staff, myself included, who are itching to attract hardware projects and start some of our own. For a specific example, one project we are currently working on involves GSM radios. I do not want to limit the lab equipment to a specific hardware application so I was not more specific.

    5. Re:Sounds like homework assignment by crutchy · · Score: 1

      the AC sounds like a wannabe electrical engineer that flunked and dropped out... you get douchebags like that on /.
      ...or he just has absolutely no knowledge of electronics and knows he can't contribute anything useful so he can only resort to trolling... you get that too
      good luck with your lab

  25. if you want a lab full of professional gear... by crutchy · · Score: 1

    ...you're definitely going to need a job to pay for it all (or just steal it I suppose)

    disclaimer: if you steal things you're bad, mkay

  26. I built mine as follows: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Oscilloscope.
    $800 OWON DS8102 2 channels with VERY deep sample memory
    $3600 Agilent DSO-X-3014A 4 channels 80 mHz can be upgraded to 200 MHZ with logic analyzer

    multimeter
    $113 Fluke 113
    $1350 Agilent 34410A

    Signal generator / arbitrary waveform generator
    $380 Rigol DG1022 2 arbitrary channels per generator I got 2
    Agilent Technologies 33250A- I didn't buy this but its the high end equivalent.

    Power supply
    $200 GPS3030D I have 2

    Soldering iron
    $50 Weller WLC100
    $610 MetCal MX-500S-11 I don't own this. Soldering is the weakest item for me at present.

    For a table I went big and cheap.
    4 Saw horses from loses
    1 4 foot by 8 foot by 1 inch piece of plywood
    4 4 foot by 2 foot conductive mats from 3m 98-0798-1202-4 $75 each

    If you are going all out having floor mats is a good idea too.

    Good luck

    1. Re:I built mine as follows: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Add a cheap old analog oscilloscope to the mix.

  27. The basics by wrmrxxx · · Score: 2

    Without knowing much about your application, I can only reasonably make suggestions about the basics.

    1) Bench space, with good lighting and plenty of power points.
    2) Flooring that won't build up static.
    3) Good ventilation, because soldering fumes are not good for you.
    4) A sink. You will probably need to be able to clean PCBs, and you will need to use wet chemicals if you make your own boards.
    5) Component storage. Unless you want to spend hours digging through piles of parts, a good way of organizing components is very useful. Raaco make some nice steel cabinets for drawers, but they're not cheap.
    6) A stereoscopic assembly microscope. I would be lost without mine - it is amazing how much easier it is to position small parts (e.g. 0201 size passives) when you can see what you are doing.
    7) Multiple decent lab power supplies.
    8) A good bench multimeter: one with a computer interface for logging would be good.
    9) Digital storage oscilloscope, again with a computer interface of some sort (many have USB now) so you can store captured waveforms for later analysis and comparison.

    These are the first things that come to mind, but undoubtably I have forgotten some essentials.

    There's a wide range of things that may also be important, but it depends what you're doing so I can only speculate. For digital work you'll want a logic analyser / protocol analyser. If there are modern CPUs involved you will probably want a JTAG interface. If you are doing RF work there is a whole set of specialised equipment. If you are doing loads of SMD you might want a pick and place machine and a reflow oven. If you are making your own PCBs you might want a UV exposing unit and chemical trays, or alternatively a PCB milling machine (it takes a high end machine to do the very fine pitch work).

    1. Re:The basics by vlm · · Score: 2

      4) A sink. You will probably need to be able to clean PCBs, and you will need to use wet chemicals if you make your own boards.

      Also, frankly, RoHS or no, you wanna be washing your hands before you leave the lab. And anyone who claims to be a real electronics guy who hasn't gotten a bad thermal burn is probably lying and the best treatment is as much cold water flowing over the burn as fast as you can possibly reach the sink (like start running for the sink while you're still yelling the F word)

      If you are doing loads of SMD you might want a pick and place machine and a reflow oven.

      Only for SMD production. I've done loads of SMD for 30 years now and especially for microwave RF work doing one off I think it would take a lot longer to CAD up a solder paste mask than to just hand solder it.

      I think you'll find the cost of a PnP is having to buy everything in reels, and then having reels of unused stuff sit there. Yeah no headache with 0.1 uF decoupling caps, or if you focus all your work on one exact specific model of microcontroller chip, but everything else on the board is either buy a reel and throw most of it out, or do it by hand, and if you're doing 3/4 the board by hand, may as well do the whole thing and skip the PnP...

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    2. Re:The basics by MattskEE · · Score: 1

      Only for SMD production. I've done loads of SMD for 30 years now and especially for microwave RF work doing one off I think it would take a lot longer to CAD up a solder paste mask than to just hand solder it.

      I think you'll find the cost of a PnP is having to buy everything in reels, and then having reels of unused stuff sit there. Yeah no headache with 0.1 uF decoupling caps, or if you focus all your work on one exact specific model of microcontroller chip, but everything else on the board is either buy a reel and throw most of it out, or do it by hand, and if you're doing 3/4 the board by hand, may as well do the whole thing and skip the PnP...

      True, a pick and place requires a large scale of operation before it becomes worth the capital and the reels. But it shouldn't take much effort to create a solderpaste mask - whenever you're defining a new pad just add the solderpaste to the pad definition and you're done, all you need to do is export the layer at the end. This is helpful even for relatively small board runs - you stencil on paste, place parts manually, and reflow in a lab toaster oven / hot plate, etc. There's very little capital and once you get above a few boards or so (depending on the board and the assembly guy) it can be faster than hand soldering.

      I imagine you could even use the inverse of the soldermask layer as a paste layer, at least for non-RF boards where everything except pads is usually covered in solderpaste. It's not ideal because then a bit of misalignment puts some paste on top of the soldermask which risks bridging for fine pitches, but I know there's CAM software out there which could shrink the solderpaste layer to correct for that.

    3. Re:The basics by bughunter · · Score: 1

      a bad thermal burn

      That reminds me of another non-obvious accessory: A live aloe plant.

      My high school electronics instructor (back in the daze when they still taught electronics in high schools) used to keep two or three on the windowsill in the electronics shop... for obvious reasons.

      Soldering iron burns hurt. But you learn quickly which end never to touch.

      --
      I can see the fnords!
  28. Money no object Harware Lab? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I would invent an allspark and a 3d-printer to manufacture mimetic polyalloy.

  29. Anthro Elevate Series Furniture by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Anthro Corporation, a spin-off of Tektronix, has a line of desks and work tables. They are all very high quality. The 'Elevate' series have motor driven height adjustments. Their factory showroom is not far from me, it's a real candyland! When I'm rich I will buy a wrap around elevate desk for myself. See http://www.anthro.com/.

  30. Some Suggestions by Ganty · · Score: 2

    1) Lots of natural light, ideally a corner room with lots of windows. You'll also need at least one of those magnifying lamps.

    2) Deep benches, at least forty inches, this is because your test equipment will take up at least a foot of space at the rear.

    3) Lots and lots of mains sockets, you'll never have enough. Wire the power through a residual current circuit breaker and a big red emergency stop switch. Make sure your family and other people around know where that emergency switch is.

    4) Four channel scope, signal generator, lab power supply (0-40V 5A) with a couple of channels, a second fixed power supply with 12V, 5V and 3.3V outputs and a bench multimeter. DON'T buy cheap, it's better to get a good second hand unit than a piece of cheap Far-East test gear. I like Hameg but I know that opinions will differ here.

    5) Anti-static mat and wrist strap.

    6) Lots and lots of storage for parts, as with mains sockets you'll never have enough storage.

    7) Decent tools, as with the test equipment don't buy cheap. I'm still using some tools that I bought twenty years ago.

    8) A set of drawers underneath your workbench for storing your tools. The plastic inserts that go inside kitchen drawers will help keep things in order.

    9) A burglar alarm and a lock on your workshop door. All this lot is expensive and you don't want it to vanish and reappear on Ebay.

    10) Air conditioning and/or heating depending on your location. Equipment calibration will drift in temperature extremes and the standard of your work will suffer.

    Ganty

    1. Re:Some Suggestions by serviscope_minor · · Score: 1

      3) Lots and lots of mains sockets, you'll never have enough. Wire the power through a residual current circuit breaker and a big red emergency stop switch. Make sure your family and other people around know where that emergency switch is.

      A really good powersupply too.

      Since you're wiring it in, it is nice to have a DC bus wired in as well, with lots of connection posts. Really handy, and moves some fo the bulky equipment (e.g. the PSU) elsewhere on the bench.

      --
      SJW n. One who posts facts.
    2. Re:Some Suggestions by tech10171968 · · Score: 1

      1) Lots of natural light, ideally a corner room with lots of windows. You'll also need at least one of those magnifying lamps.

      2) Deep benches, at least forty inches, this is because your test equipment will take up at least a foot of space at the rear.

      3) Lots and lots of mains sockets, you'll never have enough. Wire the power through a residual current circuit breaker and a big red emergency stop switch. Make sure your family and other people around know where that emergency switch is.

      4) Four channel scope, signal generator, lab power supply (0-40V 5A) with a couple of channels, a second fixed power supply with 12V, 5V and 3.3V outputs and a bench multimeter. DON'T buy cheap, it's better to get a good second hand unit than a piece of cheap Far-East test gear. I like Hameg but I know that opinions will differ here.

      5) Anti-static mat and wrist strap.

      6) Lots and lots of storage for parts, as with mains sockets you'll never have enough storage.

      7) Decent tools, as with the test equipment don't buy cheap. I'm still using some tools that I bought twenty years ago.

      8) A set of drawers underneath your workbench for storing your tools. The plastic inserts that go inside kitchen drawers will help keep things in order.

      9) A burglar alarm and a lock on your workshop door. All this lot is expensive and you don't want it to vanish and reappear on Ebay.

      10) Air conditioning and/or heating depending on your location. Equipment calibration will drift in temperature extremes and the standard of your work will suffer.

      Ganty

      The anti-static mat (floor and desk) and wriststraps are often overlooked but are of extereme importance. Nothing puts a damper on your day like frying an expensive IC because you didn't take basic precautions.

      Also, look into getting some good ventilation in your workshop; between the chemicals you're using to clean circuit boards and the soldering/desoldering you'll be doing, there's going to be a lot of fumes around your workbench.

      --
      This space for rent!
    3. Re:Some Suggestions by bughunter · · Score: 1

      A really good powersupply too

      While most lab equipment is too complex to build on your own, one of your first projects should be to build your own DC power supplies, preferably from components scavenged from other equipment. Frequently you can find DC/DC converters and linear regulators in discarded TVs, Microwaves, etc., which really only need repackaging. Fixed supplies at +3.3V, ±5V, ±12V and +24V should be more than adequate. They don't have to look pretty, but they should have a safe, insulated, switched connection to the mains, and the DC supply terminals should be banana or screw terminals, individually switched, with LED on/off indicators. Meters, current, limits, voltage controls, etc., are nice but unnecessary.

      Even if you have a nice adjustable bench supply with all the bells and whistles, build a collection of backup supplies, because if there's one rule of EE labs, you never have enough of two things: scope leads and power supplies.

      --
      I can see the fnords!
  31. Not just tools.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Drawer for tools: http://www.treston.com/index.php?article_id=4249&__from_id__=3072&product_group=6370
    Workbench: http://www.treston.com/index.php?article_id=4249&__from_id__=4253&product_category1=4302

  32. My Electronics Workshop - as an example by Spectrumanalyzer · · Score: 3, Informative

    By no means is my workshop the coolest in the world, but its a combination of years of experience, building and designing, and this is how it is:

    1) Raaco shelves, these are absolutely essential, youd hate to run out of components in the middle of a project, so you need these, fill the walls! http://images.toolstop.co.uk/product/6651eea4432e327d9f2017ea860bef09.jpg

    2) You need HEAPS of components. Now, youre probably not a millionaire, if you where...you wouldnt ask us geeks, youd just purchase whatever, so here is how I get my stash. I go to ham-fests, the radio amateurs usually have thousands if not millions of surplus components theyve grabbed from a run-down electronics shop or factory closedowns. Make a HUGE list of your essentials, and go collecting. Itll take a few years, but youll get there. I have MILLIONS and MILLIONS of NOS (new old stock) components from all over the world by now. Ebay is your friend, but beware of FAKE components, expensive components sold for peanuts...could be fakes, but its still relatively rare imho. Go hunting for closedowns of electronics labs, stores and much more, 70% of my components comes from there, and usually for pocket-change. Hang out...befriend the managers...listen and pay attention. Before you know it, youre the "buddy" who gets everything for nothing.

    3) Get SMD reels too. Have a copy of your DIL/DIP discretes as SMD equivalents, this is when youre finished prototyping with the discretes. You need the full size discretes in order to experiment properly. Far too many wannabe designers design everything in CAD and scratch their heads endlessly over their designs, lacking on-hands experience with the easy to handle components. This is understated today. A lab like this is essential for quick and good development.

    4) You need ROCK SOLID tables rather than fancy glass tables, so purchase some old super-solid office equipment rather than shop IKEA. Sometimes youll throw a 50-100 kgs of instrumentation on your table, and bye bye IKEA. And itll get dirty, and itll drown in solder waste (which you will eventually get everywhere). So it must be a surface solid and easy to clean.

    5) You wall should also have a tool-rack, here you need the rough tools such as screwdrivers, mini drills, bits, cutters, pliers and whatnot. Youll also need some hangers for your endless numerous test-cables. Hang the test cables within easy reach so you can keep your shop tidy and neat. This will become more important than you may think.

    6) Speaking of which, numerous of testcables you need (Yoda talk)... banana plugs, soft-silicone cables for power connections, extendable banana plug cables are essential, dont skimp on quality here. In fact, you may nearly skimp on everything except this. Test cables are notorious for going bust, and killing that spirit when you finally discover that you bought cheap crap...and spent hours just to find out your test cable is leaky, crappy and such. You need 100mhz range probes, probably higher...and more expensive, but start out with common 100-250mhz scope probes.

    7) As for test instruments, you need these basic things: 2 Benchtop multimeters, 1 portable multimeter, 1 frequency counter (min 2.6 ghz), 2 Benchtop oscilloscopes, preferably one analog and one digital...Ive got 4 of them for various reasons...you can never get enough scopes and multimeters. Function generator is essential for repair and design, a 10mhz will do, preferably with TTL level output as well as variable analog. Get a Signal generator too, 1 ghz minimum...the 1+ghz something...needs to be very stable if you operate above these frequencies. Benchtop lab PSUs... get some with both analog and digital readouts, the older generation analog psus tend to be less noisy and better at delivering at high peaks. Switchmode PSUs are needed for those higher power needs, but have at least one of each.

    1. Re:My Electronics Workshop - as an example by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      What he says, also a cheap second hand stereo microscope for the SMD soldering, it makes rework actually possible, especially when you pass 35/40 years old.

    2. Re:My Electronics Workshop - as an example by Spectrumanalyzer · · Score: 2

      LOL, spot on!

      Also, to continue where I left off last time (one of our clients came in the office, so I had to make the list short, work first, fun second!).

      7) continues... A nice spectrum analyzer is good to have around, especially for spotting those parasitic stray oscillations that you won't be able to escape when the time comes to commercialize your projects, the FAA are fairly strict, and your inventions need to be approved first, so better have a Spectrum analyzer handy, and make sure those stray oscillations doesnt emit from your construction. Its also an excellent instrument for designing filters.

      8) Soldering equipment. Something you dont want to skimp on is a good soldering station, preferably multiple stations as one of them WILL break down one day, usually when youre in the middle of an awesome project. Not to mention the different jobs you need done, a bigger station for those DIP/DIL discretes and cables, a smaller tip/solder for those SMD oddjobs (you may want a SMD hot air rework station as well), and a desoldering station instead of just a pump. Pump works fine, but they are a big mess, solder waste goes everywhere. Hakko and Weller are two brands professionally used, Pace too...but Id reccommend the first two as I have long term experience with these.

      9) As our long time friend and foe mr Anonymous Coward explains, a good Microscope for SMD rework - is a good thing to have around, dont need one myself yet, but I have one...just to read the darn numbers and characters on the smallest SMDs :)

      10) ESD equipment is nice to have, and some claim even mandatory. Well...Unless you work at Intel/Amd or handle million dollar test gear on component level, all you need to have are some good ESD habits. A) Always get rid of any built up charge in your body when handling sensitive components, I always touch my metal-rack before handling anything sensitive. My metal rack is big, and works well as a discharger. Also dont touch pins of switching diodes, sensitive transistors (especially HF transistors), or chips...most of the time...you wont need to...its all down to habit. Once youve worked this into your system, itll become second nature rather than an annoyance. In my MANY *MANY* years of handling components, I cant even remember destroying anyone due to static electricity, but then again...were all different, I have plenty of knowledgeable friends whos nearly infamous for zapping circuits.

      11) A logic analyzer is also nice to have if you work a lot with MCUs or/and logic based constructions. Get one thats at least 100mhz, or you wont hang with the times.

      12) Always treat your tech-friends nicely. And build yourself a solid network of regular engineer guys and hobbyist...dont be stingy, share the wealth. Because you never know that day when you desperately need that missing component that even Mouser cant help you find, and then your network saves the day. I know theyve saved my butt numerous times.

      Good luck

  33. Background? by Captain_Chaos · · Score: 1, Interesting

    I don't have any suggestions, but I am very curious about the background of this question. Could you elaborate a little? Why and for whom are you building this lab? Are you putting your own money into it, and if so, why is it worth so much money to you and why do you need such a high-tech lab? Just curious.

    1. Re:Background? by bartoku · · Score: 1

      I am an Electrical Engineer who has been doing software development for a few years. The company I work for is looking to prototype some hardware for a project. I have put together my shopping list, but I am sure I am forgetting or missing something, especially in the furniture area. I have never really had to buy such equipment since it was always in place at school or the labs I worked in.

  34. Overhead Shelves w/gap for cable, power points by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Second the overhead shelves *but* make sure you leave a gap or cutout for the power cords... great for CRO, Logic Analyser, signal generator etc
    Also, on the power front, at least four power points per bench - about mid way between the bench and the overhead, probably ethernet etc too. If you have a side rack for a PC or something, you need a couple there too; oh, don't forget the cutout from the side shelf to the bench for cables.
    On the bench surface, you can get this goo that sets slightly squishy that is non-slip and mildly conductive (ie: not a dead short, but dissipates ESD) - you make a flat bench with a lip on the front (stops stuff rolling off) and then poor the goo in to a depth of about 5mm.
    Nice lighting (maybe under the overhead shelf) and ventilation - hard to retrofit.
    Someone suggested a shielded room - that's easy enough to do if you expect to do RF stuff.

    1. Re:Overhead Shelves w/gap for cable, power points by vlm · · Score: 1

      Someone suggested a shielded room - that's easy enough to do if you expect to do RF stuff.

      For gods sake man no CFLs. I had a huge battle about installing LEDs in my workroom instead of slightly cheaper CFLs. CFLs suck if you're doing low level RF work or analog work. (I suppose 1500 watt power amp wouldn't care)

      I'm told that at least some florescents / CFLs put out so much noise that some microcontroller inputs will latch unless terminated. Being apocryphal this might only apply to 8031's made in 1983 but in general, I'd still say incandescent or LED, nothing else will do.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    2. Re:Overhead Shelves w/gap for cable, power points by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Being apocryphal this might only apply to 8031's made in 1983 but in general, I'd still say incandescent or LED, nothing else will do.

      Which is why electronic developers would want CFLs, so they can test in the same sort of noisy environment the customers are bound to have . . .

    3. Re:Overhead Shelves w/gap for cable, power points by dr2chase · · Score: 1

      Mod parent up. My own real-world screwup (that worked great in simulation, of course) was a bicycle standlight that used some MOSFETs to turn on the standby power. Walk up to bicycle in the real world (insulated from ground by rubber tires), touch it (sometimes, some places), and boing! on come the lights. Three cheers for high-impedance gates.

      Problem fixed with software -- if the microcontroller wakes up and doesn't see a spinning wheel, it leaves the power off. No idea how many times it turns on and plays possum.

    4. Re:Overhead Shelves w/gap for cable, power points by vlm · · Score: 1

      Being apocryphal this might only apply to 8031's made in 1983 but in general, I'd still say incandescent or LED, nothing else will do.

      Which is why electronic developers would want CFLs, so they can test in the same sort of noisy environment the customers are bound to have . . .

      Sometimes yes, sometimes not. Most benchtop screwing around is obviously done with all the shield cans open, the case open, etc etc.

      I can always inject extra noise. For fun I used to "test" for EMI/EMC very roughly by waving my 5 watt ham radio HT over a ckt on my table. Its really hard to remove noise, but easy to add.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
  35. All I can tell you is what I have by mpoulton · · Score: 4, Informative

    The flippant answer to your question is that you should get whatever equipment you think will be useful for whatever projects you're doing. If you don't know what you want, then you won't be putting it to use anyway. "Electronics" is not one discipline. It's a collection of related but different fields, like different specialties in medicine. What equipment does an operating room need? Aside from a few basics, the answer depends entirely on what kind of surgery is being performed. Having a network analyzer or a service monitor in your electronics lab is great for some types of work, but if you don't already think you'll be needing those then they're just going to collect dust anyway.

    I do a variety of different kinds of electronics work, but most of it is RF (ham radio), high voltage (Tesla coils, fun plasma experiments), or high power (switching power supplies), or all three (induction heating, BIG lasers, serious radio transmitters, kick-ass solid state Tesla coils, etc.). This requires an array of tools and equipment that ranges from common and universal to highly specialized. Here are my key assets:

    - Fluke Scopemeter 199C, 200MHz portable digital oscilloscope. If I could keep only one test instrument, this is it. Totally worth the $4k. I literally could not do much of what I do without this tool or something similar. I love my Scopemeter. It's just the right combination of portability, durability, and signal analysis capability. The electrical isolation of the fully-insulated battery-operated unit is a huge benefit sometimes too.

    - Fluke 287 digital multimeter. A very high-functioning DMM for general purpose use. RMS readings on funky waveforms over a wide frequency range. Accurate measurement of component values.

    - Klein CL2000 clamp-on AC/DC ammeter and multimeter. A really great tool for general DMM use, as well as non-contact RMS measurement of high currents, both AC and DC. This bad boy can accurately measure how much current your car draws while cranking the starter, or the true RMS current of an arc welder.

    - RigExpert AA-520 antenna analyzer. A rudimentary but powerful digital antenna analyzer for HF through UHF frequencies. Great for its basic purpose, but also capable of doing lots of neat tricks like tuning duplexers if you get creative with it.

    - Cheap pocket DMM's. They're like $20 and it's great to have several sitting around to use as monitors for various parameters on a system during testing. You can blow them up or fry them with an RF field and not feel too bad, saving your precious Fluke gear.

    - Solomon temp-controlled soldering station. Needs no explanation. I feel that there's no need to go crazy on soldering equipment. A sub-$100 station will do the job just fine, even for fine SMD work as long as it's of decent quality. PID temperature control, low mass, and a hefty heater are all requirements.

    - Granite work surface. Of all the surfaces I've worked on, I have found granite to be the best. Preferably pure black so things show up on it. It is heatproof, electrically insulating enough for any purpose, anti-static, strong, hard, and pretty affordable compared to a digital oscilloscope. A couple hundred bucks will get you a very good slab section to work on.

    - Automated external defibrillator. I often work on circuits that can kill me with one false move. Having an AED nearby and showing friends and family how to use it could save my life some day. Very rapid defibrillation (within 5 minutes, preferably 2) is the ONLY effective life-saving treatment for electrocution. With very fast intervention, the chance of survival is excellent. By the time an ambulance arrives it is far too late. It's $800 well spent if it even gives me a 1% chance of not dying. Skip this if your work doesn't involve much line-voltage or higher.

    --
    I am a geek attorney, but not your geek attorney unless you've already retained me. This is not legal advice.
    1. Re:All I can tell you is what I have by RobertLTux · · Score: 1

      "- Automated external defibrillator. I often work on circuits that can kill me with one false move. Having an AED nearby and showing friends and family how to use it could save my life some day. Very rapid defibrillation (within 5 minutes, preferably 2) is the ONLY effective life-saving treatment for electrocution. With very fast intervention, the chance of survival is excellent. By the time an ambulance arrives it is far too late. It's $800 well spent if it even gives me a 1% chance of not dying. Skip this if your work doesn't involve much line-voltage or higher."

      and don't forget you might want to have a Lab Partner/Minion handy to use said AED or otherwise serve as a spotter.

      --
      Any person using FTFY or editing my postings agrees to a US$50.00 charge
    2. Re:All I can tell you is what I have by Trogre · · Score: 1

      Any person using FTFY or editing my postings agrees to a US$50.00 cheque.

      FTFY

      --
      "Nine times out of ten, starting a fire is not the best way to solve the problem." - my wife
  36. Stuff that has not been mentioned: by Captain+Sensible · · Score: 1

    Lots of old books. Gruenberg on telemetry, the Radiotron Designers Manual, the ITT Radio Engineers manual, Skolnik on radar, the GE transistor manual and anything that shows actual circuits. You can always get modern books on theory but 1960s to 1990s books will give you circuits you can actually build.

    Lots of components. You can buy in bulk from Chinese distributers using eBay and there is very little risk of counterfeits.

    Good strong lighting. Loupe magnifiers. Fume extractors. Those devices that hold PCBs and components in place while soldering. Solid but comfortable chairs. Solid laboratory benches able to hold your test instruments and heavy equipment under test. At least 45 x 60 cm space on the bench.

    1. Re:Stuff that has not been mentioned: by k6mfw · · Score: 1

      Lots of old books. Gruenberg on telemetry, the Radiotron Designers Manual, the ITT Radio Engineers manual, Skolnik on radar, the GE transistor manual and anything that shows actual circuits. You can always get modern books on theory but 1960s to 1990s books will give you circuits you can actually build.

      I'm hearing this theme it seems more frequently unless it is just my perception, i.e. older ARRL handbooks on building antennas. Maybe it's a trend since USA stopped manufacturing things in 1990s or stuff made nowadays require a large industrial plant? Perhaps it is because Jim Williams, Bob Pease and others like them have died?

      --
      mfwright@batnet.com
  37. right way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Lots of wire
    Blowtorch
    Nonstick fryingpan and hotplate
    Ceramic tiles
    Clear plastic boxes
    Gloves
    Chemical sink
    Vice and clips
    Holders
    Piles of leds resistors and common stuff
    Magnets, many kinds
    Avr programmer w 5 avrs on boards and lots of loose avr chips
    Microchip microcontroller programmer and lots of chips
    Lots of batteries, lipos, some big lead acid
    Etch and solder and blank boards
    Lucite
    Coping saw
    Dremmel
    Handheld pc with lpt port
    Tons of transistors
    Desktop pc with internet for getting pdfs specs of parts and ordering
    Cellphone
    Wireless transmitters
    Some lasers
    Some lcds and other displays
    Lots of weird motors with different voltages for quick checks of circuits
    Radioshack science kits WITH the manual
    Laser goggles and other goggles
    Lighter, bunson burner
    Fresnel big one
    Breathing masks
    Vaccuum cleaners
    Timers
    Signal generator
    Oscilliscope with data cable
    Serial and lpt port cables for chopping
    Did I say wireless transmitters already?
    Exacto
    needle nose
    Scisors, good ones

    DUCT TAPE
    BIG HUGE LASER

    Chemistry glassware
    POFiber
    Glue
    Paint

    More, but phone has no bat

  38. How much room have you got? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    As well as telling us what the lab is for, it would be REALLY USEFUL (tm) if you could tell us:

    1 - what size of space you are thinking of using?
    2 - what sort of support services are around it (eg, is it a shed at the end of the garden with no power, a basement room with mains power, a barn......) ?
    3 - what sort of budget do you have to spend?

    1. Re:How much room have you got? by bartoku · · Score: 1

      1 - what size of space you are thinking of using?

      11' by 14' to start, but it can be expanded into the adjacent room of the same size.

      2 - what sort of support services are around it (eg, is it a shed at the end of the garden with no power, a basement room with mains power, a barn......) ?

      1903 built commercial building, second floor, stained concrete floor, electrical wiring with proper grounds, windows, brick wall, glass wall, and sheet rock wall.

      3 - what sort of budget do you have to spend?

      If I can justify it to my boss then I can get the budget for it. Of course justification is hard without specific project examples. The first project is a small GSM device for example. Another project involves FPGA devices.

      Thanks!

  39. Special cables by dohzer · · Score: 2

    Cables that explode into lava if anyone tries to take them out of the room.
    Stop stealing my test leads!

  40. Here's what I have. by NixieBunny · · Score: 2

    I've been doing electronics work in my home workshop for about 35 years. My workshop is equipped with the following;

    I have 20 units of 36-drawer Akro-Mills parts cabinets, the kind with the clear plastic drawers. These have SMD components, through-hole components, nuts, bolts, connectors, switches, etc. I occasionally devote a parts cabinet to the parts for a particular project that I build a few hundred of.

    Hand tools: I have a red plastic screwdriver caddy that's full of screwdrivers. About 80 different tools to open anything I may encounter. There is a very expensive pair of diagonal cutters and a nice pair of long-nose pliers on the bench, and some tweezers and an X-acto knife.

    I have a Hakko soldering station and a Bauch & Lomb stereo microscope to see what I'm doing.

    On the bench, I have a 3 digit digital voltmeter and a couple HP bench power supplies to activate my current project.

    Next to the bench, I have a 6 foot tall rack with a Tektronix R7704 oscilloscope with appropirate plugins, a vintage Fluke 6-digit Nixie tube voltmeter, an HP 5245L Nixie tube frequency counter, a signal generator, an old HP spectrum analyzer and tracking generator, and a Nixie tube atomic clock.

    --
    The determined Real Programmer can write Fortran programs in any language.
    1. Re:Here's what I have. by tippe · · Score: 1

      > and a Bauch & Lomb stereo microscope to see what I'm doing.
      I wish we had a Bauch & Lomb stereo microscope, but even our cheap Chinese-made one is indispensable. With adjustable zoom and focus, rework on 0201 components is trivial and rework on stupidly small 01005 components is actually possible. Our microscope even has a built-in USB CCD camera. The quality isn't fantastic, but I've used it on several occasions to document rework steps, capture evidence of botched board assembly, etc. I'd say the camera is definitely optional, but the microscope is a must.

    2. Re:Here's what I have. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      2 Oscilloscopes analog and digital. Get a Digital Scope with built in measurements (voltage, frequency, etc)
      1 Current Probe (connects to Oscilloscope to measure current)
      2 HP digital counters/Frequency meters (used when I need to know a precise frequency or the number of times a digital signal trips
      Signal Generator (Sine, Square, Triangle, Pulse) Freq 0 to 10 Mhz
      Weller digital soldering pen (for soldering fine pitch components) Don't forget to buy "Water soluble flux") Works very good and much easier to clean up.
      Hot Air Rework gun (I have the xytronic 850D which works well)
      PCB Vise to hold PCBS while you solder SMD components (Panavise)
      Loads of power supplies, I have custom built triple power supplies as well as high power single voltage power supplies (ie 600W\1500W 24V\36V\48V)
      Isolation transformer (if you are designing or repairing power supplies or circuits using mains power)
      arbitrary waveform generator for creating custom signals for testing inputs
      LCR (Inductor Capacitance Resistor) meter. Used to precisely measure Inductors, and Capacitors. LCR meters are mostly used to power circuit components, but can be used to identify failing caps in digital circuits.
      A transistor tester capable of testing BJTs, MOSFETs, etc. I use the Atlas DCA55 from Peak Electronic Design (its very cheap and handheld which makes it great for troubleshooting). Most bench units are very expensive, and don't appear to have much value over the Atlas DCA55
      Breadboards (I have about 6 Global PB-105)s. I use for initial design testing when building circuits which are later converted to PCBs.
      A chip programmer, capable of programming EPROMs, EEPROMS. (simple) FPGAs, GALs, PALs, etc. I sometimes use simple FPGAs, or GALs cut down the number of logic gates chips needed in Digital designs
      Tools for Microcontrollers, Currently I use MicroChip PICs for simple digital designs. You need a Programmer or perferable an ICSP (In circuit Programmer). A C compiler (much easier than writting code in assembly).
      Schematic\PCB CAD software. The most non-ridiculously expensive popular CAD is Eagle, but I perfer Diptrace since is cheaper and has some features that I find easier to use.
      Tools for in-house PCB machining. PCB-Mill, Etching equipment. Although this can become expensive, especially if you want to do through-hole plating for VIAs and solder masking. In my opinion its better to just outsource PCB manufacture to a PCB shop. Get one of these sheet metal shears (http://www.micromark.com/mini-metal-shear-and-brake,8395.html) to cut\trim PCBs as well has splitting a group of PCBs that were etched on a single, larger PCB.
      Really good lighting. Especially if your reworking small SMD devices. You need to see the markings on the SMDs for proper orientation and the silkscreen on most SMDs has very poor contracts. I use an overhead desk mount worklight over my soldering area.
      A good PC with a good monitor so you read schematics, view component data sheets, PCB CAD software, chip programmer, Microcontroller IDE, etc. Two PCs and extra monitors would be even better. Also note that many digital oscilloscopes now have USB\ethernet so you can control them from a PC.

      FWIW: I prefer a small magnifier on flexible shaft over a microscope. I Just position the magnifier over the work area. I find the microscope disorienting because you need to position your hands while viewing through the scope. I prefer to position first, then view under the magnifier. The microscope gets in my way.

    3. Re:Here's what I have. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Remember, if it works it's a Fluke!

  41. Wire bonding machine? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If money is no concern, and you want to do high frequency work, soldering is not enough. Good high frequency components work better without a package, so you need some equipment to perform wire bonding. Forget ball bonding, high frequency really needs wedge bonding to minimize stray inductance. A second hand bonding machine will set you back 7 to 8 grand. Then you have to buy the tools (Gaiser for example), some wire (look at bondingsource) and probably some silver loaded epoxy (biggest problem being the limited shelf life, which can be increased by keeping it in a freezer).

    That's 10 grand for a start. Now how much have you left for the rest of the lab?

    1. Re:Wire bonding machine? by bartoku · · Score: 1
      Love it!

      That's 10 grand for a start. Now how much have you left for the rest of the lab?

      At least another 90K for the first round, what else you got?

  42. EYEWTKAEL by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    If you've ever watched Mythbusters, that's the ideal general purpose lab. It's big, has tons of storage and plenty of workspace. Also, there are no carpeted floors in the work areas, just in their offices. Carpeting is the natural enemy of electronics.

    Separation and planning are key. Equipment comes and goes as needed, so planning around specific equipment is the wrong approach. One big lab is also a disaster waiting to happen, unless only one person will ever be doing work.

    Basically, it all ends up being a bunch of compromises around the following problems:

    Problem #1, storage space
    Nothing is more frustrating than having to shuffle around previous work to make room for the latest project. Furthermore, throwing away old parts is blasphemy; most engineers are pack rats, because it does eventually come in handy if it isn't fried.

    Have excess storage space, realistic throw-away policies, and try to avoid storage bloat. Bloat happens every time somebody reinvents the wheel (or buys it). Instead, store stuff where it can be found for reuse and keep some kind of inventory. Don't buy things you don't need for any project, and avoid storing regular junk (like old gears and belts). Having the ability to fabricate mechanical parts is ideal (having a 3D printer at least), because then it's less important to keep junk like enclosures, gears, and pulleys - you could make a lot of them as needed instead of hoarding them.

    Problem #2, work space
    A bench or two quickly becomes inadequate, especially if there are multiple projects being worked on over time. Sometimes things get postponed, and taking them apart and putting them into storage is like handing out a death sentence (people hate it).

    Having special storage for delayed projects is a good idea; just a big shelf in a lab that's out of the way or underneath a bench. My personal favorite is turning book shelves into benches (it's cheap). Not every surface needs to be a bench - eight foot long desks are nice because they're cheaper and can have two (or more) levels. Island workbenches are also a must, because being in the center of a room gives the best access for big projects.

    Problem #3, people space
    When the lab is so crammed with everything else, making room for people can sometimes be neglected. There are often basic tools everybody needs at some point, sharing isn't always possible.

    Parts and projects lying around looks complex and impressive (briefly), but an actual space for guests is advisable. Enough space between free-standing benches for two people to walk past is a must. Plan where the desks/workbenches are depending on how you want to improve or reduce foot traffic nearby. Reducing traffic through labs is usually better, people are less likely to bump into things. Put the soldering irons and sensitive equipment away from the paths people have to take when they walk through.

    Problem #4, air space
    I've seen some places that should be condemned, used as labs. Water leaks, mold, filthy microwave ovens nearby, mini fridges, perpetually dirty carpeting, and crummy ventilation. Noise, smells, and lighting, can prevent people from doing the best work they're capable of.

    Creating separate rooms and environments helps people concentrate, and prevents minor annoyances from adding up. Don't put the microwaves and fridge near anyone; if you have an out of the way corner or exterior door put it by that, not where somebody might be forced to work. On that note, cubicles waste space and offer a poor substitute for a real office. If you must have cubicles, put them all together in a separate room not merged into the labs (i.e. no lab workspace in the cubicles, just a desk, computer, filing cabinets and books). Labs have a natural tendency to become like offices, but an actual office prevents people from being as territorial about which lab they work in.

    Problem #5, free space
    The unexpected can happen. A new project might need an engine hoist, or who knows what. If the building catches on fire,

  43. Re: by andrew2325 · · Score: 0

    I like to use recliners and things in front of my desk.

  44. My 0.02 USD by cormandy · · Score: 1

    In addition to the OPs, my recommendations (please excuse overlap) speaking from experience:
    - A fast computer with a good widescreen monitor. Why? Much electronics work is done the computer, from circuit design, PCB design and microcontroller emulation
    - If expense is no object, get a high-end electronics design package like Altium (only one that comes to mind, sorry). I use Proteus from Labcenter as it does the most excellent circuit and microcontoller emulation and is much better value for money
    - Software for developing micrcontoller code
    - CAD software like Solidworks or Autodesk Inventor for enclosure design
    - 3D printer for printing enclosures
    - microcontroller programming/debugging devices (e.g. MPLAB Real ICE) and headers
    - a high-end mixed-signal oscilloscope (e.g. Tektronix MSO5000)
    - a shitstorm of various voltage and current probes
    - a good benchtop multimeter, e.g. Agillent 34411A
    - a good digital soldering station (e.g. Weller) with multiple soldering irons of various power/sizes
    - a good hot air rework station (e.g. Weller WPA3000)
    - a hotplate
    - *** IMPORTANT *** Fume extraction Don't solder without it
    - a good desoldering station
    - *** IMPORTANT *** a good stereomicroscope for surface-mount assembly (e.g. Nikon SMZ series)
    - good digial benchtop power supplies (analog units can be bumped sending voltages flying; been there, done that)
    - a good LCR meter (e.g. Fluke, Hameg)
    - If you a doing power supply design, an "electronic load" (TTi)
    - Again, if doing power supply design or mains voltage stuff, an AC power source/analyzer (e.g. Agilent); supplies worldwide voltages at various frequencies
    - a good signal generator (any)
    - an "electronics safe" vacuum for cleaning your bench, £M make one for printer repair which works well
    - As I "hate" working from a bench, I recommend a strong and long desk (e.g. 1.8 -2m in length); Check out Herman Miller Abak
    - A good chair, e.g. Herman Miller Aeron
    - breadboards
    - component "engineering kits" (e.g. assortments of resistors, caps, etc... both surface mount and radial/axial in a nice binder) so you always hav ethe exact component on hand
    - tools: good screwdrivers, wire cutters, wire strippers, etc... heck, could go on regarding tools, but will stop...
    *****
    Good luck...

    1. Re:My 0.02 USD by vlm · · Score: 1

      Why? Much electronics work is done the computer, from circuit design, PCB design and microcontroller emulation

      My ipad spends a lot of its battery life displaying electronic device PDF data sheets. Pin 11, wtf does it do? A GVA-83+, assuming I put this together right, SHOULD have how much gain at 3.5 GHz?

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
  45. SMD tools. by Lumpy · · Score: 1

    Hot air rework station. IR rework station. at least TWO sets of decent hot tweezers. That is an absolute minimum. I got all of mine at Dayton Hamfest 2 years ago for next to nothing. Lastly install a bathroom vent fan above your electronics bench and pipe it outside. turn it ON when you are soldering / desoldering.

    As for workspace. you need 2 of them. 1 for electronics work, 1 for disassembly/reassembly. NEVER do both on the same bench.

    --
    Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
  46. If your skills are like mine by petes_PoV · · Score: 3, Insightful
    I'd suggest you start with a fume extractor and fire extinguisher

    After that just buy stuff as you need it. You don't appear to know what your needs will be, so there's little point in trying to second-guess what you'll be doing. Therefore find a few good, punctual, well-stocked suppliers and keep their catalogs handy.

    --
    politicians are like babies' nappies: they should both be changed regularly and for the same reasons
    1. Re:If your skills are like mine by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      it must be early, i had to scroll this far down to finally find a mention of a fire extinguisher. Electrical components can get really hot and like to catch on fire, don't forget the heatsinks and maybe a small fan as well, can't forget the desoldering wick and batteries for when line powered instruments or power supplies cause problems.

    2. Re:If your skills are like mine by smellsofbikes · · Score: 1

      I'd suggest you start with a fume extractor and fire extinguisher

      I vote this, and would add a couple of smoke and CO detectors.
      I've also found that, for my lab at least, having several big boxes of baking soda around is really nice. They'll put out small fires with much less cleanup mess than a fire extinguisher, and they're much more attractive when the fire is flaming kerosine/gasoline, are quite handy when the spill is hydrochloric acid, and if it's a basement lab would probably help the mildew smell so many basements seem to have.

      As other people have said: boom microscope. Available off ebay new for cheaper than many used scopes, with a working distance of almost half a meter, which is wonderful.

      My work surface is a whole gigantic mass of pine 2x4's glued together face-to-face. It's very sturdy, resists burns well, and I don't feel the slightest bit of hesitation at putting screws into it to hold things down. I had a job involving lots of LED's, so I drilled a hole the size of a standard through-hole LED and would stick each LED in it and solder the wire harness onto it. I screw contoured oak bits onto it for tubing-bending, bolted the lathe and desktop mill directly to it, drilled a hole in a third-hand and nail that wherever I want it so it won't tip over. Awfully convenient. And if it finally has too many holes/burns/problems, it'll cost me about $40 to build a new one if I buy new framing studs, or a lot less if I just keep accumulating scrap lumber that I'd otherwise burn in the fireplace.

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
  47. Component Cabinets by GrahamCox · · Score: 1

    Fill one wall with component cabinets, and organise them well. You need enough so that every resistor value, capacitor value, transistor, diode, IC and every possible component variation has its own partition. This costs a small fortune but is well worth it for the hours it saves looking for the parts you need.

  48. Desks by Lonewolf666 · · Score: 1

    If you can afford it, something like this:
    http://www.hera.de/fileadmin/downloads/hauptkatalog_de/Kap01d.pdf

    I't does not have to be the fully integrated version as in the top image, but a top with multiple sockets and some rack space will be great for putting the measurement equipment.

    --
    C - the footgun of programming languages
  49. Ground by spectrokid · · Score: 1

    _ONE_, very good ground. Make sure *ALL* the outlets are connected to the same ground, with nice thick juicy cables. I have seen a lab where you could pull sparks between the grounds of 2 outlets.

    --

    10 ?"Hello World" life was simple then

  50. Yeah but... by shiftless · · Score: 0

    Why stoop to the level of working in a salt mine, when you can carry out your mad electronic experiments from the safety and comfort of your very own abandoned missile silo ? (Note: some PCB or asbestos cleanup may be required....on-site groundwater may be unsafe for consumption....etc. (In Soviet Russia, groundwater consumes you.) But hey...sure beats a damn salt mine any day of the week! Woe betide the scientist who accidently leaves the Tesla coil cooling pump on overnight, when a rubber hose bursts and floods the cavern. Imagine waking up to that! Evil fortress FAIL)

  51. Seriously, what's your budget? by EmagGeek · · Score: 1

    There is no point in even attempting to answer this question without knowing what your real budget is, and what your specific needs are.

    1. Re:Seriously, what's your budget? by bartoku · · Score: 1

      If I can justify it to my boss then I can get the budget for it, but perhaps not all in one lump sum. Of course justification is hard without specific project examples. The first project is a small GSM device. Another project on the board involves FPGA devices for custom encryption algorithms and communication. Sorry for being vague, I wanted to leave the question a little more open for fun, and for those with a more limited or greater budget. Thanks!

    2. Re:Seriously, what's your budget? by EmagGeek · · Score: 1

      The problem with such an open-ended question is that you can literally spend millions and millions of dollars answering it.

      You really do need to scope your mission and limit expenditure to that which is needed to accomplish it.

      So for GSM stuff (we do a lot of that here), a network analyzer and a spectrum analyzer will be helpful. An RF signal generator as well if the network analyzer can't do it (some VNAs come with ARBs built in for testing response to various modulation schemes). You'll also need some equipment to validate radiated emissions and susceptibility for FCC approval, if you choose to do that in-house.

      For your FPGA development, that is 80% in software (Xilinx ISE or the Altera equivalent, etc), and 20% in hardware (signal quality audit, timing audit, and fault insertion testing, etc). You'll need a fast, multi-channel scope with a set of active probes to do a valid signal quality audit for high speed digital stuff. A mixed signal scope with logic inputs would be helpful for this, since you also need to validate digital signal timing.

      Other basic equipment everyone needs includes a decent DC supply, DMM with LCR, function generator, and so on and so forth.

      Your technicians will need the ability to rework any parts you choose to use, so keep in mind that a BGA rework machine is very expensive, and you'll have to spend about $300 for a nozzle for each unique BGA package you want to use. At minimum, your techs should have a microscope (up to 10X for 0201 parts), fiber optic spot lighting, hot air, tweezers, desoldering, various irons, defluxers, hand tools, adhesives, cleaning agents, and don't forget a board washer.

      For other qualification, you'll need to consider what approval bodies you will need to obtain certification from. It sounds like FCC approval will be a must for you since you have an intentional radiator. If it is a personal device, you will also have to have equipment to conduct human exposure studies unless you want to go outside for that. If it's a device that plugs into a wall, you will need to be able to validate conformance with any number of standards from UL, CE, FM, CSA, TUV, ANSI, IEC, JIS, and others, depending on your target markets. But, generally this includes testing for susceptibility to electrical fast transients, surge, ESD, and other events. More equipment to buy and more safety rules to validate compliance with.

      Finally, you'll have sunk costs in a good OSHA-approved chemical storage container, fire cabinet, ventilation systems, lighting systems (you'll need to hire an approved industrial hygienist to determine your lighting requirements to be compliant with OSHA rules), and you'll have to develop a lab safety process that includes regular maintenance and updating of your MSDS database and on-site literature, an HSE protocol, and provide adequate PPE.

      You're probably talking about $500K minimum to properly set up one engineer station, one technician station, in-house spot conformance capability, and to validate conformance with all government regulations that apply to your workplace.

  52. If money is no object by NichardRixon · · Score: 1

    Buy all of your equipment from major manufacturers and you can hardly go wrong. Get your RF equipment from Rohde & Schwarz, especially high frequency signal generators and spectrum analyzers. Get your scope, meters and logic analyzer from Tektronix. Get most of the rest from Agilent. You will really have to better define the type of work you plan to do, however. For example, if you plan to work with cellular telephone equipment you will need a lot of specialized instruments just for that, but if not most of it would be useless. The cost of specialized equipment is higher than that of more mundane machines.

    For planning purposes you might want to make a list of parameters associated with equipment you expect to be working with. For each record the frequencies, bandwidth and other functional parameters required. How many lines on your logic analyzer are you likely to require, and what depth memory? Do you want to have diagnostic and repair equipment or will your lab be devoted exclusively to R&D? Don't answer too quickly, because you may on occasion encounter a malfunctioning reference assembly, for example, and if you can fix it yourself it could save several days compared with sending it out for repair, or starting over with a replacement. When you complete the list it should be fairly easy to see what additional equipment you will need.

    If you're unsure what you will need for some or all of it, contact sales people for the companies you plan to buy equipment from. The major companies generally give solid advice, because they would like you to buy from them again in the future. They will come to your location and arrange to demonstrate equipment for you. Of course you will still have to do your homework to evaluate their proposals.

    For workbenches you will probably want to get standard height with a shelf running the full width of each and cabinets underneath. Chairs with armrests will be needed, and they should be adjustable height to suit your workbenches. Plan on lots of 48" florescent lights, good metal cabinets for storage and file cabinets for documents and drawings. A computer on each bench is not too many. You might want to look at a decent sized UPS system if it will be important that you keep some or all of the equipment running without interruption.

    I think you will find that the sky's the limit when it comes to buying test and measuring equipment. You could easily order so much that you wouldn't have a place to put it all, then never use most of it. IMO there is no substitute for analyzing the work you plan to do, then match it up with the available instrumentation.

    My overall advice is to buy what you know you will need before you begin working in your lab. Then you can easily add additional pieces as the need arises.

    Good Luck! --NR

  53. modern by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Think modern. Pretty much everything is surface mount these days. As such, everything is also small, so lots of those stackable sets of drawers. Also, you may want a photo-etching kit to make your own PCB's for breakout & prototyping many of those SMT parts.

    You will also need a microscope, full rework station (not just a quality soldering iron, but hot air gun too), and a reflow oven.

  54. Consumer Culture by Dr.+Evil · · Score: 1

    Every activity starts with a shopping trip.

    1. Re:Consumer Culture by citizenr · · Score: 1

      Every activity starts with a shopping trip.

      Maybe if you are a hot bimbo planning a trip to Aspen.

      --
      Who logs in to gdm? Not I, said the duck.
  55. Too open ended. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    This sounds like: "Slashdot, do my job for me because I have no clue what I'm doing."

    It lacks specificity in application, and doesn't really lay out any requirements.

    If money is no object I suggest purchasing every you see in the Newark catalog, and your lab will be very well stocked.

    1. Re:Too open ended. by EmagGeek · · Score: 1

      I had the same feeling from TFA. I wondered if someone just graduated management school and got plunked down in an engineering office because he was cheap, and is in over his head.

  56. Some advice from an old timer... by pointyhat · · Score: 1

    Most of these can be obtained for very little cash and I couldn't do without them:

    A good old fashioned Tek 100-250MHz analogue scope. No DSO. No fancy stuff - just an analogue scope. This is the one bit of kit that has saved my butt a million times over. DSOs and new digital scopes are crap at picking up transients due to their crappy slew rate. The analogue scope will get you out of many a mess.

    A couple of (you need at least 2) decent Fluke multimeters. These will save your life. It will fail safe in short/overvoltage conditions. I lost one of my beloved Fluke 76 to a 4Kv overvoltage situation. It went pop but I didn't. If it was any other multimeter, I wouldn't be here writing this.

    A decent *linear dual rail* supply. Don't get two and stick them together - this is a pain in the arse and you'll get earthing problems from hell, especially when in the US as the mains there is funny. I've used old HP (circa late 1970s) and more recently Thurlby Thandar ones. Make sure they have short and over current protection otherwise fuck ups get quite expensive.

    Make sure everything you buy has a service manual.

    Get some decent goggles/safety glasses for the smoke test when you power up something you've made. I've avoided bits of LED and transistor blinding me a few times because I've cocked up.

    I use a Weller PS2D soldering station that I've had for 20 years. I wouldn't swap it for anything.

    Apart from that, anything you can get your hands on cheap. There is little requirement to blow lots of cash on anything really with the advent of eBay.

    1. Re:Some advice from an old timer... by tippe · · Score: 1

      > A good old fashioned Tek 100-250MHz analogue scope. No DSO. No fancy stuff - just an analogue scope.
      That's fine for debugging power supplies and low frequency designs, but is useless to "test and debug modern electronic device prototypes" as he specified. For that, you'll need something with a much higher bandwidth. Our HW lab isn't terribly decked out, but we do have a couple of fast-ish digital scopes (6GHz), but more importantly we have a couple of sets of good active differential probes (3-7GHz) in addition to our crappy (in comparison) 500MHz passive probes. These definitely don't come cheap (> $3K per probe, and they were used when we bought them), but doing measurements or signal integrity on DDR3 or PCIe gen 1 isn't a problem. Unfortunately, we'd need even faster equipment to comfortably measure PCIe gen2 or XAUI, but what we have is good for 90% of our designs. Good active probe sets will allow you to swap different probe heads in and out; some probe heads are good for hand probing (i.e. browser heads) while others are made to be plugged in or soldered into your board. You'll never get a better measurement than you can with a good active differential probe soldered directly to your board.

      Another benefit of using a modern digital scope is that you can network them (can access network shares, open a vnc session to the scope for remote operation, etc) and run measurement applications on them, which definitively isn't possible with an old scope. Getting a fully loaded scope with all of the measurement applications you ever intend to use already installed would be stupidly expensive. It isn't very expensive, however, to get a basic scope with the fundamental applications you know you'll always use, and when the need comes up for some other measurement software, simply "rent" it for a month or two until you are done. We did this for several months this year while characterizing our DDR2 and DDR3 interfaces.

      BTW, our scopes and probes are from Agilent and we rented SW for our scopes (as well as additional probes and other things) from either TRS Rentelco or Electrorent. We also used one or both of these services to buy a lot of used equipment (including the scopes and some of the probes) at a big discount compared to getting them new.

      > Get some decent goggles/safety glasses for the smoke test when you power up something you've made
      Good idea; I need to get some for our lab... I'd also like to add that having one or more eye-wash stations as well as a ventilation (exhaust or filtering) system are (or should be) necessities. If you've ever gotten flux remover in the eye, you'll know why the eye-wash station is a must-have, and when soldering, you really should have something in place to carry away the smoke. It's not like the old days with rosin core solder where soldering actually smelled good (even if the fumes were terrible for your health). Today's no-clean/no-wash/water-soluble/RoHS fluxes and solder are still bad for you, plus they smell like shit.

    2. Re:Some advice from an old timer... by pointyhat · · Score: 1

      Some fair points. I suppose it depends what you are doing. I was working with embedded systems usually running way below 200MHz and had a HP logic analyser on hand so the scope was used primarily for analogue (this was before those funky LeCroy scopes/protocol analysers etc).

  57. stools and 4'x8' sheets by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    you're thinking about furniture? What for?

  58. FAA?! by Spectrumanalyzer · · Score: 1

    I meant FCC...lol...

  59. Rigol, Labview by Brit_in_the_USA · · Score: 1

    Some suggestions: I recently demoed some Rigol Osc. and signal generators. USB (all models) [and Ethernet on most] [and serial on some] ideal for computer hookup. Their specs/features/performance:price ratio is much better than anything else I have come across. They also make RFSA, digital multimeters, DC sources etc. Prices on their (USA) web site. Also, get LabView.

  60. Test and debug modern electronic device prototypes by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Tailor equipment purchases to the anticipated tasks. I get by with limited resources, but there's a dynamic involved.... my designs reach the limits of my test equipment and fab capabilities. (I do concept demonstrations, mostly, which don't require extensive cosmetics, packaging, or ESD precautions.)

    If money is no object, a deep memory mixed signal oscilloscope / logic analyzer (Tek MSO/DPO 4000 series, $10-20k), decent 6 1/2 digit bench multimeter (Agilent or Tek), several power supplies, and these days, a good arb waverform generator/pulse gen/synth box (I like Tektronix hardware.) One realllllly good piece of hardware is a stereo inspection microscope (3-15x). More mag is not better for this. You don't need to see invisible detail, but you DO need to manipulate and inspect and stereo gives depth perception.

    Good benches organized for either projects or itinerant jobs. Good solder gear. Excellent hand tools, particularly tweezers. You can forget about rework stations, etc. if you get a good supply of solder wick for cleanup and part removal. Indispensable supply, really.

    Lighting and magnification, of course. LED lighting on the magnifiers is good.

    Essential docs are best gotten from the internet, so a good internet connection and computer are good. I get a lot of mileage from a digital camera, since clients want to see what I have found and I document failures, etc. with it. A local printer (multifunction) is also a good item.

    An awful lot of lab equipment is cheap. Don't skimp on the scope, though. Still the best and most useful tool.

    Depending on what you are doing, you may need additional resources. I have spectrum analyzer, TDR, RF gear, and a few thousand dollars of adapters, loads, cables, yada yada that are radio specific. These days, the module mfgs do all the hard work and a typical problem is solved without RF resources. These tend to be really expensive and few engineers have the training or experience to use them, anyway. You are unlikely to be dealing with this type of thing.

    Oh... several handheld multi-function meters, too. You almost always need to monitor three or four quantities simlultaneously.

    For mechanical hardware.... a drill press, belt/disc sander, vise, bench, power screwdriver, portable drill (with LED lamp), saber saw, Dremel or flex shaft tool, layout tools, and a hand punch for marking drill points (essential). Basic shop hand tools.

    Supplies and cables are another thing entirely.

  61. Electron Lithography equipment by charnov · · Score: 1
    --
    [RIAA] says its concern is artists. That's true, in just the sense that a cattle rancher is concerned about its cattle.
  62. Money no objection? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    An electron microscope might come in handy - it lets you figure out the details on chips that the manufacturer sometimes don't want to disclose. Or even lie about - because nobody else checks with an electron microscope anyway.

    But then - if you really have unlimited money, you just buy whatever corporation it is that have what you want anyway . . .

  63. money-is-no-objective by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    An artificial intelligence system to help you write and think.

    the phrase is "money is no objection", usually contracted to "money is no object".

  64. If You Must by business_kid · · Score: 1

    I was in that business here from 1989-2006. My first suggestion is DON'T - KEEP YOUR MONEY. Increasingly numbers of programmables (fpgas, microcontrollers, pals, etc) make it impossible to source spares. No other independent repair house lasted until 2006 here on repairs alone. I'll talk some more on that if you wish. 2 things you should have are a Metcal soldering iron, (ebay, but watch the mains vfoltage) and a Diagnosys Pinpoint 2 or the successor to that. For unknown boards, Diagnosys (www.diagnosys.co.uk) make the best test equipment about. Preferably buy secondhand - you get ripped off new. You also need desoldering, for which I used a spare Weller handle, an industrial vaccuum pump and a footswitch.

  65. a few suggestions by RobertLTux · · Score: 1

    1 i would say have at least 3 power circuits in the room A lighting circuit B Main Power C Secondary or High Power (give you 220 if you are in the US)

    2 Lighting Lots and Lots Of Lighting (and please use stuff that isn't RF "noisy" so you can scope stuff properly)

    3 ground the floor (if you have a basement type lab and the decor can work with it have several points with grounded metal in the floor)

    4 2 exits (even if one of them is a big window)

    5 Fire Extinguishers using the 10 second rule (make sure you are within 10 seconds of a FE at any given time)

    6 2 sinks and a Loo

    7 Storage lots and lots of Storage

    8 a Phone (even if its a base for a cordless)

    9 Emergency Party/Panic Buttons

    --
    Any person using FTFY or editing my postings agrees to a US$50.00 charge
  66. just finished my lab by Goldsmith · · Score: 1

    This question is extremely broad.

    I just finished putting together a broad professional lab. It's also be far too expensive for me to contemplate putting together at home.

    For electronics I put in a couple computers, a National Instruments CompactDAQ, a Solartron Modulab, an Agilent 4 port PNA-L (splurged on that) and a probe station with a USB camera. There's a bunch of small stuff around in storage, a soldering iron, power supplies, wires, components, old projects which are well characterized and stuff like that. There is one long workbench, a few chairs, a white board, and a sink. You don't really need to go crazy with stuff. There's a bunch of materials processing gear in there too, but that's not such a great thing to set up at your house. I have access to a good machine shop, so I didn't put any of that stuff in my lab.

  67. My lab by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    On a budget and still want great equipment. Ebay is your friend. HP and Techtronics equipment is pennies on the dollar. You can get a 250MHz 1GS/sec digtal scope for under $300. Even the modern USB scopes won't match that. Multimeters, Oscilloscope, Signal generators, Power supplies.

    To get a stock of parts cheap get a common paint striping heat gun. Use it to unsolder parts from old equipment before scaping it. I have spent years doing this to old TVs, radios, computer power supplies, motherboards and such. I now have a cheaply aquired large parts collection. Esp capacitors which are a very common failure.

  68. Lighting is indeed cruical by caveat · · Score: 1

    I don't do electronics per se, but for my all-purpose-home-workshop I put 36" tubes paralleling the wall 6" out and then 24" tubes on every other joist above the workbench and wherever else I need light. Plus two drafting lamps, and I picked up some stupid cheap clipon LED tasklights at Ikea. I use it for hobby electronics, ammunition reloading, and general tinkering/building stuff and it's honestly just adequate. Tubes on every joist might not be a bad idea.

    --

    Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored. - Aldous Huxley
    1. Re:Lighting is indeed cruical by OldDogOldTricks · · Score: 1

      I like a set of switched outlets along each wall near the ceiling. You can then hang tube fixtures where you need them. Easy to change if you add or move equipment.

  69. I don't care what you say... by Lab+Rat+Jason · · Score: 0

    Money is ALWAYS the objective. Get a comfortable chair... like a lay-z-boy. Sometimes it helps just to sit and think, but leaving the environment altogether can often bring new distractions.

    --
    Which has more power: the hammer, or the anvil?
  70. furniture, lighting, storage by time961 · · Score: 1

    I recently put together such a lab in a room in my office space.

    Electronic equipment depends completely on what kind of work you're doing: digital, analog, high-speed, low-signal, RF, etc. So it's hard to answer that question.

    Pretty much everything, however, needs some basics: ESD protection, furniture, lighting, storage.

    ESD protection: Install a conductive tile floor. Most vendors for this stuff prefer to work on whole buildings; finding someone to do a single room took a bit of looking. I ended up buying the tiles myself (from StaticWorx, from their odd lots selection at about $3/sqft) and hiring one of the big company's installers to moonlight over a weekend.

    Other folks have talked about grounding. It's just as important as they say. Most electricians who do commercial work will understand how to get this right.

    Furniture: Get one or two heavy duty lab benches with anti-static surfaces and shelves above the bench. It's a little detail, but I recommend bullnose fronts instead of square, to make chipping and other damage less likely. Benches should be 36" deep if you have the room, so you can have relatively deep equipment on the bench and still have room to work in front of it.

    You should be able to get behind the bench to fuss with cabling and such (and to vacuum... dust accumulates like nobodys business if you have your test equipment pushed all the way back to the wall behind it).

    I have a couple of anti-static lab chairs: conductive fabric, little chain to connect to the anti-static floor.

    I also have a big folding table that I unfold when I need to lay out a bunch of stuff and reorganize it.

    Lighting: This is really important. You can't have too much. I have a bunch of 4-bulb T-8 fluorescent fixtures on the ceiling (in several groups with different switches, so it doesn't have to be that bright all the time).

    I also have a big magnifying lamp, and a big stereo microscope, although I'm still looking for a good solution for lighting on the microscope.

    Storage: I have a bunch of little drawer cabinets. Most aren't anti-static, so I have a lot of stuff in conductive foam. It's a trede-off: anti-static is safe, but it's opaque, but clear drawers are a lot easier to work with (and cheaper). A lot of stuff (machine screws, switches, resistors) doesn't need anti-static.

    I also have a bunch of open shelves filled with Akro-Mils plastic bins. These are great for storing miscellaneous stuff like multimeters, tools, small project pieces, larger components, etc. They come in many colors, which I've never figured out how to use effectively as an organizing scheme. I try to keep everything loose in one of these bins so it's easy to put a bunch of bins on the shelf to make room fo a project.

    I do a fair amount of work with surface-mount devices, and I struggled with how to store them. It's a nuisance to handle the devices in cut tape form: the tape is bulky and springy and clumsy, and it's a pain to get devices out of it one at a time. Once extracted, the devices are way too small to make effective use of drawer cabinets: it's like storing grains of sand. But then I found these nice little (conductive) aluminum canisters at American Science & Surplus, and they're great: about an inch in diameter, glass window in lid, and stored 20 to small aluminum box the size of a small book. I now have a bunch of those "books".

    Multimeters: Someone suggested getting a bunch of cheap multimeters; this is a great idea. $5/each from Harbor Freight (or free sometimes with a coupon). An extra cheap oscillosope isn't a bad idea, either--an old Tek 465 is cheap on eBay and very quick to use.

    Lots of power outlets: I ended up bolting a ton of cheap power strips all over the benches, because there are so many things that need power. And because so many o

  71. Great question, one answer, and more questions by RogueWarrior65 · · Score: 1

    I find myself thinking the same thought I have when I flip through Syd Mead's books. Wow, that cityscape is super cool but it will never happen because you never get to start from scratch and without plenty of morons who think their idea is better. But I digress. I have dozens of big plastic containers full of electronic stuff I've accumulated since college. My biggest desire and quandary is how to get all that crap organized. I look at blog pages with photos of well-organized workshops and I think "That's cool but how did you decide on how many storage racks and drawer systems and of what size would you need if you hadn't been anally organizing things from day one?"

    As to the one answer, I recent spent a few bucks on a decent work bench. I looked at the high-end offerings from companies like Edsal. They have some nifty stuff but it's all pretty spendy. I eventually bought a bench from Uline. Nice thick maple. I skipped the ESD top because it was more expensive and I already had a mat. Basically, be sure to budget for good furniture because all the expensive test equipment in the world is going to piss you off if your work area is a pain.

  72. Tapes by Ukab+the+Great · · Score: 1

    Masking tape for holding a socket onto the board for the first few soldered holes and electrical tape when you need some impromptu low grade insulator.

  73. David Jones = nails on chalkboard by SuperBanana · · Score: 2

    UGH. Watching David Jones is like sitting in a dentist's chair because he often squeaks his voice at a high, constant monotone pitch - and he doesn't just ramble, he goes on walkabouts. Seriously, the guy needs to print a fucking agenda and tape it above the camera, and then EDIT HIS FOOTAGE.

    Most people would make a page or two on their blog with a few photos - but Jones manages to turn it into a 30 minute stream-of-consciousness youtube video, 90% of which should have been edited out.

    It's beyond painful, and I have no idea why he insists on speaking in such a squeaky voice - he has moments where he's speaking normally and tolerably...

    1. Re:David Jones = nails on chalkboard by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well, this is my full time living, so I guess I must be doing something people like?
      As for the length of my videos, I do ramble a bit, and the show is unscripted, but I like to think there is quality detailed comment in there. You are simply wrong that I could and should edit out 90% of it. Take say a 60 minute oscilloscope product review or multimeter shootout. It's simply impossible to deliver the same detailed information and commentary in 6 minutes. If you think you can do it, please do so, and I'll post it as a video response.
      I have countless people telling me NOT to make my videos short and scripted. They like my long detailed and stream-of-consciousness videos. That's what I've built my audience on.
      As for my voice, it's called a "high rising terminal", and is a natural part of my speech.
      If you don't like my style of video, that's just fine, you don't have to watch. I can't possibly cater to everyone's tastes, it's not possible. As a content producer, that is the first rule you learn.
      Regards
      Dave.

  74. what you'll need by CosaNostra+Pizza+Inc · · Score: 1

    You'll need anti-static flooring and special grounding for all your lab stations. You'll want a Digital Storage Scope, maybe a mask tester, a logic analyzer, maybe a protocol analyzer, a spectrum analyzer, power supplies, multimeters, a soldier station with adequate ventilation...Prepare to fork over a lot of cash.

  75. What are you making? by conorpeterson · · Score: 1

    I love this question! Let me help you pick an oscilloscope.

    If you're not designing a motherboard, but instead working on medium-speed (Agilent MSOX3054A. If $12k is too much, you can get the "lower" grade MSOX2014A, 100MHz, 8 digital inputs for an almost reasonable $3100. Agilent is the heir to the classic Hewlett Packard geeks all know and love, and the infiniivision x-series compares favorably to tektronix, dollar for dollar.

    You need a multimeter. Just get the Fluke 87 and forget the rest. It is also useful to have a function generator and a frequency counter, even if you are doing low-speed digital/analog work. If you're doing RF work or designing analog amplifiers, you might also want a spectrum analyzer. These can get freakishly expensive depending on the type of work you want to do. If you didn't get a mixed-signal oscilloscope, look into getting a logic analyzer. For professional applications it's probably cheaper to just get the MSO.

    Not as high tech, but equally important: a soldering station and a fume extractor. For working on mains-powered equipment, you are going to want an isolation transformer and potentially a variac. You will need some way to mitigate ESD in your lab, so look into grounded tables, heel/wrist straps, and ionized air blowers. Not the consumer grade stuff, you want something that senses static charge.

    If you are the DIY type who doesn't mind getting your hands dirty, it is nice to be able to fabricate your own PCBs. You can get PCB mills but they are expensive and low-precision. Better to do it the old-fashioned way, in a printmaking studio. You need a UV exposure unit, a laser printer or inkjet that can lay down a high density of ink on a transparency (no recommendations, sorry, I'm still trying to find a good one myself), an etching tank with aquarium pump, and a sink. Just buy your PCBs pre-sensitized. For cutting and drilling you want a small bandsaw or shear and a drill press. You can Harbor Freight the bandsaw, but try to get a high-quality drill press with no spindle wobble or else you'll blow through drill bits like crazy. If you're OCD about this you might even consider getting a small mill, just make sure it has enough of a throat to handle the boards you want to work with.

    If you want to do SMD in house you'll need a reflow oven, solder paste, some tiny tools, and possibly a low-power stereo microscope depending on your visual acuity.Throw in a hot-air reworking system too, they're essentially heat guns with chips that match common SMD packages.

    You are going to be accumulating many, many tiny parts, so storage is essential. It will need to be versatile: bulk resistors are one thing, but over time you will accumulate reels of SMD parts, coils of wire, long plastic tubes full of DIP and other through-hole parts and all kinds of other junk. It has to go somewhere and stay organized. In my lab I use the tiny trays available at model shops for stuff that's not ESD-sensitive, but in pro labs I've seen large metal cabinets reminiscent of library card catalogs and flat files lined with anti static foam organized with mazes of dividers.

    Finally you'll need good EDA tools, so be prepared to pay good money for professional grade software. Most of it runs on Windows so budget for a new PC as well. Cost is no object? Look into Altium Designer. It's the kind of software that doesn't have a listed price. Eagle is a realistic option although its user interface is like taking a time warp into the nineties. No free software I've tried can be cajoled into doing what I can routinely do with Eagle, so my advice is to accept that you'll be using a proprietary toolchain and budget accordingly. Good luck.

    1. Re:What are you making? by bartoku · · Score: 1

      Thanks! I figured Slashdot was long over due for this question to come up again.

      The first project is a small GSM device. Another project involves FPGA devices for custom encryption algorithms and communication. Of course some quad-coptor and robotics fun after hours.

    2. Re:What are you making? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Rubbish. Rigol makes the low end Agilent scopes, just buy direct from Rigol.

  76. Vidmar cabinets by k6mfw · · Score: 1

    Stanley Vidmar cabinets can be ordered in all shapes, sizes, configurations. First a workbench with nice wooden desk, large drawers on left for bulky tools, small drawers on right for small tools and parts. Then add cabinets for cables, connectors, shrink tube, whatever. These cabinets are not cheap but they will outlast you and your grandchildren. It may take some time to come up with configuration that best meets your needs and wants. Yes I know I'm promoting their stuff but dang, when compared to stuff you buy at OSH or elsewhere.... Now if money is still not an issue for you, then get Snap-On tools, they do make small size for electronics lab, screwdrivers just seem to feel better than other brands (note that Snap-On tools are like TSO aviation parts, if you have to ask the price then you cannot afford it)
    http://www.stanleyvidmar.com/products/cabinets

    But whether you are stinking rich or a simple minimal cost hobbyist, one item that is a ***must*** is a temperature controlled soldering station, i.e. Weller. Don't bother to find one used (you will not find any except from someone that just died at an estate sale). Go ahead and spend the money on a good Weller, think of it as good investment.

    --
    mfwright@batnet.com
  77. How much money do you have? by Slugster · · Score: 1

    The difference between "hobbyist grade" and "professional grade" is a huge chasm of cash.
    The place that I got my (ancient) Tektronix analog oscilloscope (for $200) also does all kinds of high-end equipment repair and calibration. The digital oscilloscopes they use cost $25K each.

  78. 10 basic things by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    1) Well labeled power evenly distributed to work areas. Enough amperage to cover all potential machines plugged in.
    2) Adequate ventilation and A/C. Some high power fans for WHEN the A/C dies.
    3) Networking, Both wired and wireless. DHCP/DDNS services running.
    4) Windows server and authentication services for linux (ldap) [best to use VMs for this].
    5) NAS server w/NFS and CIFS services
    6) Dustmop and broom. Dustpan.
    7) proper wire guides above head
    8) Lockable cabinets and plain selves
    9) Depending on noise: earplugs
    10) Remotely accessible power strips. If you have a lot of racked servers, end switches per rack as well.
    11) Backup power for up to 1 hour down time for essential servers.
    12) Fire suppression system (a electronics grade extinguisher would do minimally)
    13) Firewall to control access to lab. Probably allow for email out of lab and ssh into lab.
    14) A strong password used on all machines.
    15) Some lab machine monitoring software tool.
    16) Proper seating for the benches.
    17) A rolling cart or two. If you have a lot of racked servers, a rolling desk for KVM.
    18) A laptop with serial port or dongle and networking. Go for trouble shooting.
    19) Powered screwdriver or drill with proper bits. A strong small flashlight. A tool box with lots of screwdrivers and one hex bit set. One hammer for that problem between keyboard and chair. :)
    20) Dry erase board and markers.

  79. Mostly an analog related list by hardie · · Score: 1

    I've scanned through the comments and I'm trying to offer stuff I haven't seen. I also emphasize things that were said but I feel strongly about.

    A metal wastebasket, used with a bin liner. When you have a possible pickup problem, remove the contents with the bin liner and invert the wastebasket over your circuit. Plastic won't do it. If you're at a larger company, get a "Calibration not required" sticker from QA. Then when facilities runs off with your wastebasket because it helps keep down the static at the shredder, you can prove it isn't their wastebasket (guess how I know this).
    Sink. Someone said to put your bench in a concrete floored room like a garage because then you could put in a drain. I think a concrete floor has to be the worst place to install a drain after the fact. You can put a drain anywhere. My new metalworking shop has a sink, and just being able to wash brushes and hands is a huge plus.
    Second story shelf on bench for equipment--should be obvious to one skilled in the art.
    Goggles if you do power electronics.
    Quality soldering iron. I like Hexacon for a straight iron, but they have their problems too.
    Computer for instrument control and data capture. Think about where the keyboard is actually going to be useful; do you want it on a tray under the bench, or under the second story shelf so you can use it standing up?

    Instruments
    The tiny little scopes made now are great if you need portable or are desperate for space. If you've ever used a fine lined analog scope and switch to an inexpensive one like my TDS2014, you'll hate the display (I think it's only 8 bits and shows a lot of quantization). Mine is borrowed, so I put up with it.
    DO NOT buy a digital scope without having used it for a few hours. Some of the early ones had horrifying user interfaces, and they worked about that well too.
    Regardless of whether you have a digital scope, get a Tek 2465. One of the best analog scopes ever made.
    Instruments now come with LARGER screens, what a great idea.
    High accuracy dvm; Keithley 2000, various HP's.
    Stereo dissection microscope with zoom and light--pick this up surplus.
    Other fine instruments to fit your specialty. HP is almost always a good bet.

    Remember, unless you're 90 years old, you don't have to get it all at once. Putting together a lab should be spread out over time, especially as you learn that you should do things a different way, or encounter deals at auctions or other used.

    Steve

  80. I have a semi-pro lab by guruevi · · Score: 1

    What I have:

    - Plenty of storage, cabinets and containers for a variety of screws and sets of electronics
    - Garbage cans
    - Sink with standard faucet, rinsing hose and a separate inline distilled water filtration system (for cleaning up print boards and keyboards without rusting them)
    - Drying racks, small drying oven (actually an old bacteria incubation oven), regular oven, microwave oven (marked 'chemicals only')
    - Fume hood
    - Microscope
    - Vacuum pumps
    - Belt sander
    - Band saw
    - Large drill press
    - Dremel drill press
    - Dremel tools and variety of additions
    - Weller soldering station
    - Larger soldering iron
    - Huge soldering iron
    - Weller PortaSol soldering iron (butane)
    - Portable soldering iron
    - 2 channel scope and test leads
    - Fluke digital multi-meter with variety of test leads
    - Circular saw
    - Miter saw
    - Saw blades and drill bits for plexiglass/plastic as well as metal and wood
    - Extensive craftsman toolkits (wrenches, ratchets)
    - Various repair kits for non-regular screw-devices (Torx etc.)
    - Set of spatula's for opening no-screw enclosures, tweezers in various sizes, magnetic screw-picker-uppers, spudgers, suction cups
    - Mac Mini and PC, couple of LCD's and a CRT
    - Converter pieces for everything you will ever need to repair (DisplayPort, mini-DisplayPort, mini-DVI, DVI, VGA, HDMI, FireWire, USB) ...
    - Set of many size PCB's (pre-drilled and plain) and Proto-Boxes
    - PCB etching chemicals and various chemically resistant enclosures to develop them in. You could use also small glass aquariums for that, but put in some slots so you can do multiple at a time.
    - Set of Arduino's
    - Large array of cabling but the main ones you should have is 4 wire and 8 wire CAT5 and CAT7, coax, jumper wires in a couple of sizes, speaker cable ~18AWG (4 and 2 leads), 3 lead 12AWG (for 110/220V power) and some bigger cable like 4AWG and 0AWG if you ever want to do low-voltage/high-amp (as from car batteries) or electric motors.
    - Replacement and testing components for the stuff you'll be repairing (hard drives both known good and known bad ones, flash memory, RAM modules, switches, ...)
    - Variety of clamps (small to big) and 'helping hand' tools (the little 'men' with lights and crocodile clamps)
    - Variety of colored electrical tape
    - Variety of size and color heat shrink stuff
    - Crimp tools for coax, RJ-11 and RJ-45, strippers and crimpers from 0000AWG - 22AWG (beyond that use heat to melt the insulation)
    - Cleaning tools and supplies

    I have some fiber optic tools as well but unless you're going to use fiber optics, you won't need them. I also inherited a cryo-safe and centrifuge but you won't need that.

    --
    Custom electronics and digital signage for your business: www.evcircuits.com
  81. ESD Tabletop, repairable by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Having done this at home and for work, I've found an ESD solution that works very well, is durable, and can be touched up inexpensively when you've gotten a bit rough with it.

    Using masonite, a very hard sheet board, cut pieces to use as tabletops on your workstations. The reason for this material, or something similar, is that it is relatively thin, and dense.
    Before attaching it to your tabletop, use a small foam type paint brush to apply India Ink to one side of each of the boards. When dry, apply at least one more coat. Depending upon your application, and the absorbancy of the material you use, you may need another.
    When dry, attache to you table top, each board should then have a wire with a round log attached to one end bolted to it so as to make good surface contact with the inked side of the board, which is facing up. The other end of this wire is grounded in whatever way is convenient for you to do.
    You now have a durable ESD workstation. As it gets scratched, it is easily touched up, however, you'll find it takes a lot of abuse to get to that point.

    When selecting India Ink, be sure it is true carbon black India Ink (Speedball makes some good stuff). Cheaper inks are not carbon black based, and thus non-conductive. I actually went to an art store armed with a meter and measured samples they had over the various types. Readings are very high, but still obvious which are carbon black based and which are not.

  82. So vague as to be useless by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    Modern electronics? That could mean anything from the PLCs used in industrial settings to electro-optical sampling setups with >25GHz bandwidth. The industrial world still uses clack-clack relays alongside giant SSRs. All you need really is a voltmeter and big enough cutters to handle 4 AWG and crimpers for the ferrules.

    On the data end, you might need a DCA complete with the fastest sampling heads. Such a comms setup would include a spectrum analyzer, several soldering irons and all the tools that go with it like a stereomicroscope and tweezers, and a rework station. You should also cultivate good relations with your local test instrument rental outfit as well as your parts suppliers and your PCB rework shop. There are some reworks you just can't do yourself.

    Toss in the usual oscilloscope, meter, frequency standard, hand tools, work area, lighting, ESD control.

    Geez I could go on and on, but congratulations on your new job for a mom and pop outfit, do your own homework please.

  83. Soldering and Rework station by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Back to the "Hardware" part of the lab. Well equipped work bench for prototype assembly and rework.

    - Stereo microscope with at least 10 inch working distance
                      Dentist scopes are one of the best, Those 0201 devices are hard to see.
    - Temp controlled soldering station
                      Two low wattage, makes removing some parts much easier
                      One high wattage for those ground/power plane connections.
                      Assortment of tips, wide tips are helpful for some components.
    - Small vise to hold small boards and a board vise for the larger ones.
    - IR rework station for BGA and possibly chip attach and replacement.
                      Expect to spend $40K-$60K. Also good for large count connectors.
    - Vacuum desoldering station.
                      For the simpler stuff.
    - Misc 30ga (wire wrap wire) with good SLT strippers for those few EC's.
    - Drill with small bits for land deletion (top, bottom, and internal)
    - Handy hand held DMM (Fluke 88V)
    - Cap meter to see if that cap you dropped is really 2pF or some other random part floating around the bench.
            (Fluke might be enough here for larger values)

    - If dealing with RF you may also need some specialized instruments to check the package inductance of your chip caps and such.

    The rework equipment should be selected to handle the new no-lead temperatures.

  84. Top Jerseys has cheap discount NFL Jerseys sale in by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

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  85. SMD kits and vice by Vadim+Makarov · · Score: 1

    I found these cheap and large SMD resistor and capacitor kits to be practical. Just ask the vendor to pack all kits regardless of component size into SK128A or SK128B boxes... the cheaper box they use by default for larger component sizes is of too low quality. They will do this free of charge if you ask.

    For vice, I use Bernstein with various attachments.

    The rest will depend on what you do.

    I have new models of Weller soldering irons, and am less than impressed with their design and quality, especially for the top price they charge. Things came from Weller with manufacturig defects, broke mechanically very quickly, etc. User interface is not intuitive, and touch screen is awkward comparing to a knob and buttons. I'm getting Hakko now instead (= made in Japan), will see how it works out.

    --
    17779 eligible voters in a district, 17779 'vote' as one. This is Russia.
  86. Desktops or Laptops by Douglas+Goodall · · Score: 1

    I recommend you have two or three computers... 1) at least one Windows box. 2) at least one Linux box. 3) at least one Mac. At least one of these should have a 46" flat panel display with 1920x1200 resolution You will often want to display a large schematic, and several component data sheets (mandatory while debugging). Two large displays are better than one. New age test equipment often comes in the form of USB pods, and the host software varies in requirements from Windows XP onward. Logic analyzers like the Saleae that have Mac compatible software are very cool. Windows version requirements for inexpensive test equipment often include downlevel or unsupported Windows versions.