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Cree Introduces 200 Lumen/Watt Production Power LEDs

ndverdo writes "Cree just announced production power LEDs reaching 200 lumen/watt. Approximately doubling the previous peak LED light efficiency, the new LEDs will require less cooling. This should enable the MK-R series to finally provide direct no-hassle replacements to popular form-factors such as MR-16 spots and incandescent lighting in general. The LEDs are sampling and it is stated that 'production quantities are available with standard lead times.'"

43 of 421 comments (clear)

  1. These Cree guys are really bright. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

    Kudos.

    1. Re:These Cree guys are really bright. by Nom+du+Keyboard · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Price?

      --
      "It's the height of ridiculousness to say for those 9 lines you get hundreds of millions."
    2. Re:These Cree guys are really bright. by Jane+Q.+Public · · Score: 4, Informative

      Slip of the finger. That should have said 12.6 lumens/W.

    3. Re:These Cree guys are really bright. by mellon · · Score: 4, Informative

      Cree fixtures produce a really good color spectrum. They are pretty much the company to beat on this.

  2. Cooling is the issue by calidoscope · · Score: 4, Interesting

    The reduced cooling should help in lowering the costs of the LED versus the CFL and the reduced energy consumption will be a help as well.

    --
    A Shadeless room is a brighter room.
    1. Re:Cooling is the issue by falconwolf · · Score: 5, Interesting

      The reduced cooling should help in lowering the costs of the LED versus the CFL and the reduced energy consumption will be a help as well.

      Yesterday I went to Walmart to get new light bulbs, old CFLs I had burned out. There Walmart had LED bulbs in stock, at around $20 a bulb. I ended up going to Sam's to get CFLs, an 8 pack cost less than $6.

      Falcon

    2. Re:Cooling is the issue by dougmc · · Score: 3, Informative

      If you double the efficiency, you *more* than half the cooling needed for a given amount of light.

      To give an example with some math ...

      Suppose you need 2000 lumens from a 100 lumen/watt bulb. That means it takes 20 watts of power, and puts out 18 watts of heat.

      Replace it with a 200 lumen/watt emitter that has the same light output, and it now needs only 10 watts of power, and only puts out 8 watts of heat.

      All that said, I'm looking forward to this being available for bicycle lights. Doubling the efficiency means I can have double the light with the same sized battery pack, or the same amount of light with half the battery pack or some permutation thereof. Cooling isn't a big deal for bicycle lights until you get into the really high powered lights as the airflow is usually quite good.

    3. Re:Cooling is the issue by symbolset · · Score: 4, Insightful

      These are surface mount LED modules, not bulbs. I checked one out. At 700 mA @12V (8.4W) gives 1040 lumens - approximately as much as a 70-watt incandescent - in a square 7mm on a side. This is only 123 lumens per watt. Max current is 1250 mA, so you could conceivably get a lot more light out of one, and presumably 1W is where the 200 Lumens/W kicks in, but that's only about a 25W incandescent equivalent - still pretty respectable considering the size. They cost about $10 in quantity 500. ROI is about 6 months vs. incandescent, or 18 months at the 200 lumens/W level.

      I think I could see some interesting applications for this one. At 1040 lumens 18% of the electrical energy is converted to light, so around 6.9 W of heat. It's also too bright to look directly at.

      Yes, it's a slashvertisement / press release. But LED lighting has /. common interests energy, technology, and so on. Progress is progress.

      If they can just improve the efficiency a little more these might be interesting not only as a light source but as a means for spacecraft propulsion.

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    4. Re:Cooling is the issue by aliquis · · Score: 5, Informative

      It depend on the quality of the bulb.

      Many are listed at 10,000 (or 8,000?) on-off cycles.

      Osram Dulux intelligent longlife for instance is rated at 500,000 on-off cycles.

      Sure it will cost more than the very cheapest CFLs but it's 5 or so times more, not 50 times more. And that's more than my LED lights are rated at (the ones I bought it's even highly rated.)

      Regarding the rating and heat I think it make total sense to at least be able to put a similar power rated light-bulb in the same fixture considering the higher efficiency. I'm not 100% sure it work like that but I can't understand why it shouldn't. Using LEDs those cooling fins get hot but then again a regular lightbulb get very hot to.

      You can get CFLs usable with dimmers to. I think what people should take home with them is that you should buy the CFL which fit your needs, not just any CFL. If it's going to be on for long sure buying any may be ok. If it's going to go on and off often buy one for that, if it need to be dimmable buy one for that and if it will be sitting outside like here and may have a -20 degree C around it buy one designed for that.

    5. Re:Cooling is the issue by Anonymous+Psychopath · · Score: 5, Informative

      I have Cree bulbs in my 4" recessed lights. They put out a warm color, don't make any noise, and work fine on a dimmer. I honestly can't tell the difference between them and the halogens they replaced, except they run a lot cooler. They sell them at Home Depot for about $40 each. I expect them to last at least ten years. The Cree guys know what they're doing.

      --

      Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

    6. Re:Cooling is the issue by citizenr · · Score: 3, Informative

      Bought 10 CFL bulbs for my kitchen. They all died in less than a year.

      dont buy cheapest chinese shit, but quality CFLs with proper soft start.

      --
      Who logs in to gdm? Not I, said the duck.
    7. Re:Cooling is the issue by darthdavid · · Score: 3, Informative

      The point of bicycle lights isn't for when you're riding on the sidewalk, it's for when you're riding on the road and don't wanna get squashed by a car cause they can't see you.

    8. Re:Cooling is the issue by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Insightful

      One issue with bicycle lights, especially those popular in North America, is that their reflectors are awful. They spray light everywhere. That's only really useful when mountain biking; when cycling on the road, light sprayed into the air is wasted light, and more powerful lights create a hazard for other cyclists and motorists. A good amount of engineering goes into a proper reflector, like those used on car headlights. There are some bike lights that do it right (Phillips has some), but the ones these LEDs are going to be thrown in first are going to be of the junk variety.

    9. Re:Cooling is the issue by ryanov · · Score: 3, Funny

      I put CFL's in the toilet once, and yes, they did fail.

    10. Re:Cooling is the issue by theedgeofoblivious · · Score: 4, Funny

      Well that's the problem. You're not supposed to put them in the toilet.

    11. Re:Cooling is the issue by willy_me · · Score: 5, Informative

      CFLs are most often killed by high temperatures, not poor power. Many older light fixtures (possibly even most) are fully enclosed because they were designed for incandescent bulbs. The fixtures got very hot but not so hot as to cause a fire. The problem with CFLs is that even though they use less power and result in less heat, the ambient temperature inside a fully enclosed fixture will result in premature failure. Very few new fixtures on the market are fully enclosed for this reason.

      The next most common cause of CFL failure that I've seen is CFLs being placed on dimmer switches. People don't read the warning label on the package and try to use regular CFLs with dimmer switches all the time. Don't expect those bulbs to last long.

      And finally, with regards to poor power... Just as dimmer switches will cause a CFL to eventually fail, power spikes and sudden drops will have the same impact. If you wiring is bad or you have a noisy device attached to power, the cheap CFLs can die early. Had a MacPro with a bad power supply cause a hum in the lines that could be heard the next house over if you listened to the CFLs. It would only happen with drawing a significant amount of power - in my case, rendering video. Serves as a good example of how if you have premature failure then there's something that needs to be fixed - or else you are asking for other, more expensive problems.

    12. Re:Cooling is the issue by inflex · · Score: 3, Interesting

      I've tried different brands of CFL ( generic, GE, Philips, Nelson ) , many sizes as well (including a monster 65W unit) and the failure rate is high compared to the proposed life on the boxes. Initially I think it was that I had them in enclosed diffuser bulbs and I dare say with the way our Summer weather is here it killed the first batch through overheating of the electronics in the CFL bases. However, after ensuring they all had good cooling (even bare bulbs) there were still plenty of failures, so I'm just thinking that overall it would seem that CFL drivers aren't yet up to scratch, or at least the manufactures are cutting corners on the components.

      I've switched to the faux-traditional-halogen replacement bulbs and they seem to be doing a lot better. Looking forward to converting to LEDs soon.

    13. Re:Cooling is the issue by Joce640k · · Score: 5, Insightful

      CFL's rarely last more than 10 months. If they do they are at half the brightness of a ten year old bulb.

      Let me guess: You also pay $6 for eight of them...

      --
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    14. Re:Cooling is the issue by SecurityTheatre · · Score: 3, Interesting
    15. Re:Cooling is the issue by BitZtream · · Score: 4, Informative

      You can get CFLs usable with dimmers to.

      You need special dimmers, which cost a multiple of dimmers for incandescents. And then the cost saving of using CFL over incandescents is less than the extra cost of the dimmer.

      Not anymore, now you just need dimmer aware CFLs that can deal with the clipped sine wave.

      --
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    16. Re:Cooling is the issue by DamonHD · · Score: 4, Informative

      Completing one's toilet was originally getting dressed and washed and a toilet (or lavatory) was the place to do that, etc, but then the word got hijacked, in a long and glorious tradition of being unable to call a spade a shovelling device...

      http://aj.hd.org/TFTC/E.html#euphemisms

      Rgds

      Damon

      --
      http://m.earth.org.uk/
  3. Candlepower Forums... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    ...seems to have the expert analysis. Some people are into flashlights so much and the LEDs that may be used in them, it's crazy what details they keep tabs on.

    Post on the Cree MK-R LED at Candlepower Forums.

  4. Re:light and color quality by Osgeld · · Score: 3, Informative

    its pretty common, if not standard issue now to put a patch of phosphorous over a UV led to generate the final visible light in these high powered LED's. so its very similar to what you can expect out of a CFL (course these things measure in cm)

    you do get advantages though, the starting UV is generated by a crystal and not an electric arch in a vacuum so its more "rich" and if its not half assed you dont get flicker

  5. jaffa... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Funny

    jaffa cree!

  6. Re:I am sick and tired... by pla · · Score: 5, Funny

    I am sick and tired... of the government banning perfectly good items

    Then consider yourself in luck! Because, y'know, TFA has nothing to do with anyone banning anything. Don't let me interrupt a good rant, though - Carry on, good sir, you rage against that machine!

    Some of us would rather spend our money on more fun things than literally "keeping the lights on". Do whatever you want with your money.

  7. you seem to misunderstand colour temperature by Chirs · · Score: 4, Informative

    When someone talks about "X Kelvin" as a colour temperature, they mean the spectrum emitted by a black-body at that temperature, which by definition is full-spectrum.

    To a first approximation the sun emits radiation at 5800K.

  8. Re:Theoretical Maimum by MyLongNickName · · Score: 3, Informative

    A 90 second search revealed the following "A common choice is to choose units such that the maximum possible efficacy, 683 lm/W, corresponds to an efficiency of 100%"

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy

    --
    See my journal for slashdot ID's by year. Mine created in 2005. http://slashdot.org/journal/289875/slashdot-ids-by-year
  9. Re:Energy efficiency by timeOday · · Score: 5, Informative

    an incandescent bulb puts out about 52 lumens per watt.

    If only! "An upper limit for incandescent lamp luminous efficacy (LER) is around 52 lumens per watt, the theoretical value emitted by tungsten at its melting point" (wikipedia). In fact a 40W tungsten bulb outputs 12.6 lumens/watt, up to 17.5 for a 100W bulb. Incandescent bulbs aren't even in the ballpark anymore.

    As to whether some people assume all light is equal, I suppose some do. But others take it very seriously. It is not an overlooked issue.

  10. Re:420 by timeOday · · Score: 3, Interesting

    No, but outputting a mixture of just 4 pure wavelengths works well in initial studies.

  11. luminous efficacy by terec · · Score: 4, Informative

    Wikipedia has a list of luminous efficacies:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy

    200 lm/W seems pretty good; the theoretical limit is around 300 lm/W for LEDs, and that's about 44% overall efficiency.

  12. Re:Slashvertisment by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

    While it indeed is a commercial product, it's also a new industry milestone.

  13. Poor Spectrum by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

    While I *do* love to hear stories like this, and I believe that LED lighting, in some form, is the future, it dissappoints me to see that so-called "white" LEDs still produce quite poor spectra. Check out the spectrum on page 4 of the datasheet given on the MK-R series page. Compare this to the sun's spectrum. Because these are phosphor-based LEDs, you get a relatively narrow blue-violet peak (the true colour of the LED), followed by a wider hump, peaking at about yellow (the broad emission spectrum of the phosphor coating, which is down-converting those blue photons). While this looks "pure white" when you look directly at the beam, it renders colours very poorly (i.e. the reflected light from objects looks the wrong colour). This is what causes LEDs and fluorescent lights to often make a room appear sickly and food look unappetizing. Ideally, we should strive for a light which closely emulates the sun's spectrum, but this is obviously challenging.

    Fortunately, there are a few next-gen LED technologies on the horizon. Quantum dot-based LEDs seem promising. By making dots of a specific size, you can precisely tune the output wavelength of a QD LED. Presumably you can combine a whole bunch of QD LEDs, each tuned to a different wavelength, to approximate the sun's spectrum. Alternatively, certain types of organic LEDs offer the ability to tune the wavelength, and similarly, produce a composite device which has a more ideal spectrum.

    Still, until these materialise, plain 'ol incandescents are the only cheap light sources which produce a nice, continuous blackbody spectrum. Sigh.

  14. Re:Theoretical Maimum by queazocotal · · Score: 5, Informative

    It's way, way, way more complex than this.

    683lm/W is the maximum luminous efficacy for light, yes, but that's green light.

    To reproduce in full the solar spectrum so that it is indistinguishable from white light requires you to produce a 'white' that produces light from about 400-700nm (UV to IR borders).
    If you take into account flourescence and its effect on colour, perhaps 350nm is the top end.
    This would take perhaps 180lm/W.

    As you move from near-solar (or tungsten) identical bulbs to more limited 'whites' - you get about 250-400lm/W being the maximum.
    This varies from pretty good white that you won't notice being different from actual white to something rather more limited, with just blue at 430nm or so, and greenish yellow at 560nm.
    This will to a cursory glance look right, but will have truly wretched colour reproduction.

  15. Re:these are not the bulbs you are looking for by killkillkill · · Score: 5, Funny

    this Cree MK-R isn't super suitable for torches

    Certainly not suitable. It produces less heat than other LEDs, which are themselves not even suitable. For my torches i tend to stick to propane, MAPP, and acetylene.

  16. Cree and me by steveha · · Score: 5, Informative

    A year ago, I had no idea who "Cree" might be.

    Then I bought one of these:

    http://www.fenixlight.com/viewproduct.asp?id=151

    It's the best pocket flashlight I have ever owned. Bright and useful on "low" power (32 Lumens) and very bright on high (105 Lumens). 500 minutes of light (over 8 hours) from a single AA cell on low, or 110 minutes on high. (I'm trusting the manufacturer's numbers here, but I can verify that it actually is bright and lasts a long time.) Anyway, that's a Cree LED, and it doesn't have the horrible bluish tint of older LEDs I have bought in the past.

    More recently I bought an Ecosmart light bulb at Home Depot. "Ecosmart" is a Home Depot house brand, and uses Cree LED chips. For $10 I got a light bulb that claims to give equivalent light to a 40 Watt incandescent bulb, but seems brighter than that (I think because it's much more directional; it's in a downward-facing fixture so that's fine).

    http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202188260/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053

    And just two days ago I got a fixture that retrofits a 6" can fixture with an LED light. I bought one with the 2700K color temperature, because I like that better than the "colder" lights (bluer, which actually have higher color temperatures). I walked into the store planning to just buy a bulb for my can light fixture, and now I'm very glad I bought the whole Ecosmart fixture. I found an LED light geek web site, and the guy bought one of these just to do a teardown; he found 5 Cree LED chips inside it. Where I live, the power company is subsidizing these lights, so I only had to pay $20 for this light. This dissipates only 9.5 Watts, yet it's very bright. I love the design: it includes three spring fingers to hold it into place, but if you rotate it the fingers collapse and stop holding it. So two decades from now when the LED stops working, it will be easy to remove.

    http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202240932/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053

    So now I want to see Cree make some sort of flush-mount ceiling fixture. I have only found a few flush-mount LED fixtures, and they are all super expensive and I can't find the 2700 K color temperature. I did find one promising looking cheap fixture, but on eBay only and it's an import from China... I have no way to be sure of the quality, other than just buying one and trying it.

    My current plans are just to install some fixtures that have air gaps for circulation, so I can use the Phillips LED bulbs (omnidirectional, not directional like the Ecosmart ones). I'm going to install one of these tomorrow and see how we like it. In case the URL doesn't work right, this is a "Project Source 2-Pack White Ceiling Flush Mount" from lowes.com.

    http://www.lowes.com/pd_394606-43501-87822-01_0__?productId=3745415

    Based on my experience with these lights, we are just on the cusp of these becoming mainstream and common. I've been buying these because they are subsidized, but electronics always gets cheaper over time, and within a couple of years or so LED lights should be cheap enough without subsidy that everyone starts buying them. (Even without the subsidy, they make sense long-term versus incandescent bulbs. If you have incandescent lights, consider LED rather than compact fluorescent.)

    P.S. I haven't bought these, but I wish the office where I work would buy them. These are Cree replacement lights for standard fluorescent fixtures. Some companies are making LED lights that are the exact size of a T8 fluorescent bulb, with matching pins; for $60 or $80 or so each bulb, you can replace fluorescents (but you must rewire the fixture to bypass the ballas

    --
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    1. Re:Cree and me by SuperQ · · Score: 3, Informative

      When i was looking into replacing a whole bunch of T12 fixtures, I liked the idea of doing LED. But just upgrading the balasts from magnetic to electronic and switching to good quality T8 tubes works out to be a way better deal. T8 bulbs already do about 90 lumens/watt for a lot less money. I also talked to a good lighting contractor who does efficiency upgrades. He said the tube retrofits don't work so well. It's better to just replace the fixtures and get LED specific fixtures. What we will hopefully get around to doing is a mixture of T12->T8 retrofits for a base lighting level, and then standard LED (PAR-20) spots to light up work areas.

  17. Re:comparison by Sique · · Score: 4, Informative

    To continue the comparision: The theoretical maximum you could get out of a light source is about 251 Lumen/Watt for a source of white light at 5800 K. So this new type of LED is near 80% efficiency.

    --
    .sig: Sique *sigh*
  18. The memories - anyone heard of the LM3909? by cheros · · Score: 4, Interesting

    When I started working with LEDs they just introduced the LM3909 oscillator - it allowed an LED (only red in those days) to blink for an entire year on a single D cell.

    What keeps amazing me about LEDs is just how little energy they need to start lighting up. I'm not really into electronics anymore (was only tinkering with it since I was 11), but I recall that by using a FET for constant current meant you could be pretty flexible about the supply voltage (within limits, of course, the dissipation has to go somewhere), and by researching what it was (been a while) I came across other interesting ideas.

    As a single, simple component, I find LEDs are about the most interesting ones to experiment with (and LDRs, and NTCs, and .. :) ). They are nice to introduce children to electronics because they instantly do something visible..

    --
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  19. Go backwards: History got it right by CdBee · · Score: 5, Interesting

    On my bicycle I use a 30 or 40 year old chrome headlight made for use with a dynamo.

    I replaced the 6v 2.4watt filament bulb in it with a high power white MES LED module designed to have 100 degree illumination. Powered by a single PP3 radio battery under the saddle, it produces a 15 foot cone of light on the road ahead of me lighting everything up to handlebar height (yes, I'm overvolting a 6v LED module but it doesnt seem to cause any problems, it still runs cool)

    --
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  20. I hope these don't end up as car lighting by hackertourist · · Score: 5, Interesting

    I've noticed a disturbing trend. Car manufacturers have been using the new lightning technologies to cram e.g. the headlights into ever smaller spaces. The resulting light beam still conforms to regulations, but because the peak intensity is much higher, those headlights are much more likely to dazzle oncoming traffic. The higher the light intensity of the lamp (lm/cm^2) the worse this will get.

    1. Re:I hope these don't end up as car lighting by karnal · · Score: 3, Informative

      There's another piece to this too. There are people in the world that will take a halogen (either projection or non-projection setup) and retrofit an HID setup in it. This causes issues:

      1. The non-projection setup has no cut-off - so the light goes everywhere, which is not how good HID setups are implemented.
      2. The halogen projection setups - while similar to an HID setup (I have a halogen projection setup in my car) don't have some of the additional pieces to make the HID setup functional. For instance, factory setups for my vehicle have auto-levelling lamp housings to not blind oncoming traffic. Also, the cut-off (metal in the projection path to limit light output out of the top of the lamp) is in a different spot comparing non-HID projection to HID projection.

      Ultimately, if you're being blinded by HID lamps - part of it could be caused by incorrect implementation. HID light, even in a correct implementation is harsher - and those sensitive to light are probably more affected; myself included.

      --
      Karnal
  21. CRI is a poor measurement by Sycraft-fu · · Score: 3, Interesting

    It takes 8 colour swatches and measures the rendering of those. It does not do a good job of looking at actual spectrum, and there are far more than 8 colours to worry about in the real world. Look at the spectrum of an LED vs CFL some day. The CFLs are very, very spikey with lots of holes, the LEDs are continuous with more gentle peaks.

    We need a new system for measuring light quality, and indeed standards agencies are looking in to it.

  22. cost of CFL by falconwolf · · Score: 3, Informative

    There is virtually no selection of dimmable CFL, the few that exist are incredibly expensive

    I think that's enough examples to show there are inexpensive dimmable CFL bulbs. However Walmart has more.

    CFL sucks. We're better off with incandescent in the meantime.

    I've used CFLs for more than 20 years and have not had a problem with them. That's not entirely true, I have had problems with them. In photography, photos on film show color casting with florescent bulbs, and with incandescent bulbs as well. The first CFL I bought I paid $20 for, and over the next 15 years it paid it's cost back in avoided cost. That is in energy not used and in not having to replace incandescent bulbs. I wonder if you enjoy wasting money.

    Falcon