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A Tale of Two Tests: Why Energy Star LED Light Bulbs Are a Rare Breed

cylonlover writes "Just over a week ago Gizmag reported that Philips' 22 W LED light bulb, designed as a like-for-like replacement of a 100-W incandescent light bulb, was the first LED bulb of its type to receive the stamp of approval from Energy Star. But looking at the Energy Star requirements reported by Philips in its press release, it seemed a little strange that Philips' product is the only one to have been certified – given that products long on the market appear, at face value, to meet those requirements. Since then, Gizmag has spoken to LED light bulb makers Switch Lighting and other industry players to find out why they're apparently playing catch-up."

20 of 314 comments (clear)

  1. tl;dr: 9 month test required + uniform radial flux by girlinatrainingbra · · Score: 5, Informative

    TL; DR: the testing requirements for Energy Star for LED light bulbs require running them for 9 straight months, and one company was out of the gate first and this is the first and only one certified as energy star for its 100-W-equivalent LED light bulb. Other point: light distribution must be uniform radially for " 170 degrees of radial [sic] flux": sounds like just a smidge under a half-sphere of radiant flux which is probably what was really meant. I can't find any definition of or any other usage of the term "radial flux".
    .
    I use "half-sphere" to mean ($2 \times \pi $) steradians, and you can pretty much visual what I mean by a half-sphere. So I guess an "A-bulb" has to radiate light almost uniformly over 8/9-ths of that solid angle.
    .
    "Radiant Flux" is the term used to describe the radiant power : the measure of the total power of electromagnetic radiation (including infrared, ultraviolet, and visible light). The power may be the total emitted from a source, or the total landing on a particular surface. So neither "radial flux" nor "radiant flux" makes sense in that article. Wrong units either way. Spatial distribution of radiated light would be measured in steradians.

  2. Re:Still waiting by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    To get the Energy Star certification, the bulbs need to have a projected lifetime of 25000 on-hours (where lifetime means the bulb can emit no less than 70% of its rated light output during that time). If there's going to be planned obsolescence, it's going to be from better bulbs replacing them even though they're still working.

  3. Re:Certifications by firex726 · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Yea, fuck those ROHS, UL, and FCC certifications!

  4. Avoid CFL mistakes by muhula · · Score: 4, Informative

    I'm glad to see a high bar set for the certification of LED bulbs. CFL lights rarely hit their expected life span, among other problems

    1. Re:Avoid CFL mistakes by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Interesting

      I've been using the same ones for 11 years, one takes longer to start these days, but none have died. Perhaps they're die when a house has a bad power source?

    2. Re:Avoid CFL mistakes by Phreakiture · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Yep, this problem was alluded to in the article in explaining why this certification was so stringent.

      My experience with them is very mixed. Even within brand tier it's been kind of mixed. My best experience for lifespan was from Sylvania, but second-worst was GE. Second-best was Commercial Electric (which I think is now known as nVision) and worst was Lights of America. The quality of CFLs has been very uneven and difficult to predict.

      The worst experience was from when we moved into our current home ten years ago and promptly deployed CFLs en masse throughout the house. Of the Lights of America CFLs we bought at the time (about a dozen of them), two of them lived past the first month. Those two are still in service. Of the other ten, we took them back on warranty, and replaced the first few with like, but when they went out on us as well, we started getting refunds and buying another brand.

      The best experience, was for two Sylvania CFLs purchased in 1994 when they cost around $20. One died last year when the fixture it was in fell over and broke the envelope. The other one had met a similar fate some years before. I felt that they didn't owe me anything.

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      www.wavefront-av.com
    3. Re:Avoid CFL mistakes by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

      The leading cause of death for CFLs is heat. CFLs last their rated lifetime (and often much longer) when they're used in well-ventilated fixtures. They die quickly when they're mounted upside down in fixtures that trap the heat around the base of the bulb.

    4. Re:Avoid CFL mistakes by ancientt · · Score: 4, Informative

      Anecdotal evidence is just that. I've used them all through my house and bought different qualities. I find that in general they either stop working in the first two months or keep working through several years. My power supply is very good.

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    5. Re:Avoid CFL mistakes by X0563511 · · Score: 4, Funny

      Just like hard drives!

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      For large sets, this will be our guide even unto death, for the LORD will work for each type of data it is applied to...
  5. like for like replacement wrong by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I hate changing light bulbs, and frankly don't care if the LEDs cost a lot. I'd pay more just to not have to change light bulbs. I bought a bunch of the Philips 75W equivalents. While they provide the same intensity of light, the spectrum is considerably different, and very noticeable. The LED casts a cold spectrum that to my eyes is just a yellowish version of what florescent light emits. In the middle of the room, in ceiling cans, it looks fine. But one the side when it casts against walls or shelving, it really makes everything look cold.

    One other odd fact, LEDs do still throw off a lot of heat, and they take much longer to cool down than incandescent lights.

    1. Re:like for like replacement wrong by Overzeetop · · Score: 4, Informative

      They haven't. Best Philips I could find, I think, had a CRI around 90; most are in the 80s (where 100 is blackbody for the rated color temp).

      I have some Sylvania Par20s with a 95CRI and at full power they are not only as bright as 50W halogen PARs but very, very close to the same color (I think they're 2900K, vs 2800ish for incandescent halogens). Best price I could find was $34/ea, but they're great - and dimmable. At dim, though, they're goofy looking because the light temp doesn't change, but I can live with that. I had one of 13 fail within 2 weeks of installation, and I'm still waiting (3 weeks later) for a replacement.

      --
      Is it just my observation, or are there way too many stupid people in the world?
  6. Re:Certifications by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    Actually, RoHS is most certainly a scam. The net effect on the environment has been horrible. Rather than the electronics manufacturers engineering in planned obsolecense, the EU did with RoHS.The environmental impact is literally an unmitigated disaster in parts of China. The cost of aerospace grade components has increased substantially (yes, we have an RoHS exemption for aerospace applications; tin whiskers are a stupid cause of death) and we've got a different set of more toxic metals accumulating in the benthic muck and getting "recycled" with 3rd world environmental standards. What a fucking win for the environment.

  7. Re:Radial distribution should not be a requirement by dywolf · · Score: 4, Insightful

    its supposed to replace an incandescent bulb, which does this by default without any special design. such bulds when they need directed typically put in a light ficture with a reflector of some sort. the idea is to make a simple drop in replacement that doesnt require a compelte design shift of the entire light fixture industry.

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    The guy who said the election was rigged won the presidency with the second-most votes.
  8. Why light bulb form factor? by XNormal · · Score: 4, Interesting

    If you are investing in a light source that will not need replacement for a decade then why, exactly, do you care so much about it being shaped like a light bulb?

    LEDs don't like heat. Packing the equivalent of a 100W incandescent in a shape that pretty much minimized surface are to volume ratio is a very bad idea for heat dissipation.

    LED light panels make much more sense.

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    Stop worrying about the risks of nuclear power and start worrying about the risks of not using nuclear power.
    1. Re:Why light bulb form factor? by Overzeetop · · Score: 4, Informative

      Because

      (1) you don't have to pay an electrician to remove and reinstall a lamp, but you do a fixture
      (2) you don't disrupt the flow of business and it takes a shorter time to re-lamp than replace a fixture
      (3) if you find that the LED sucks, you can go back to what you know works
      (4) In 10 years, when one (or more) of the 30 year life fixtures dies and they don't make that model any more, I can replace a lamp and the fixture will still look the same. If I have to replace a fixture, then I have an oddball looking spot in my ceiling. Not everything is a warehouse where aesthetics mean nothing.

      Oh, and there are a good number of older consumer fixtures which either (a) anticipate a certain light pattern or (b) actually use the lamp as the structure to hold the shade. I you think it's hard to convince people to buy a $20 lamp instead of a $1 one, it's even harder to get them to buy a new $60 fixture to put it in.

      --
      Is it just my observation, or are there way too many stupid people in the world?
  9. Re: 9 month test required + uniform radial flux by msauve · · Score: 5, Informative
    I have no idea where the 170 degrees mentioned in the article comes from. They probably meant 270, double the 135 mentioned below, because it's assumed to be symmetrical.

    The actual Energy Star requirements are for "Luminous Intensity Distribution," and call for:

    Products shall have an even distribution of luminous intensity (candelas) within the 0 to 135 zone (vertically axially symmetrical). Luminous intensity at any angle within this zone shall not differ from the mean luminous intensity for the entire 0 to 135 zone by more than 20%. At least 5% of total flux (lumens) must be emitted in the 135-180 zone. Distribution shall be vertically symmetrical as measured in three vertical planes at 0, 45, and 90.

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  10. Re:quality? by ArhcAngel · · Score: 5, Informative

    The "ugly and harsh light" is described in the industry as Color Temperature. I'm not sure if it is a requirement to include but most bulbs come with a Color Rendering Index (CRI) rating. It's a scale from 0-100 (100 being a reference incandescent bulb) to rate the Color Temperature of a bulb. LED's are harder to quantify using this method however so a new method is in development called Color Quality Scale (CQS). Who knew a simple light bulb could be so complex? I found a really good read at Jason Morrison's web site with cool pictures and everything!

    But to answer your question...it depends on the LED bulb. Since LED's come in several colors but white isn't one of them LED bulbs make white using a couple of different methods. So there are some LED's that have the same harsh temperature and others that are very close to the warm glow of an incandescent. Philips just announced a new process that will bring near incandescent quality with better efficiency (200 Lumens Per Watt (LPW)) than existing LED technology but it is still a few years from production.

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    "A person is smart. People are dumb, panicky dangerous animals and you know it." - K
  11. Re:uncollimated light vs. collimated light by Pope · · Score: 4, Funny

    Could we contain this radiant flux for later use, in some sort of storage device? I'm thinking of something much like a capacitor.

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    It doesn't mean much now, it's built for the future.
  12. Re:Radial distribution should not be a requirement by Will.Woodhull · · Score: 4, Insightful

    This is just stupid....

    Agreed. Something here is stupid.

    ...The light distribution needed should be a matter of application. Efficient lighting also means not wasting light in directions that do not need to be illuminated. Instead of the 170 degree standard, the bulb should be quantified to what degree of lighting coverage it does achieve, and must be marketed accurately.

    This is done already. When an application does not need the 170 degree (or greater) field of a Type A (general use) bulb, then one should consider using a Type R, Type PAR, or one of the other recognized bulb types. Choosing the wrong bulb for the application is definitely stupid.

    TFA limits its discussion to Type A, which is appropriate for its purpose. It clearly says it is talking about Type A, although I can see that a speed reader might just jump right over that significant detail without noticing it. It is saying that in the Energy Star system, the omni-directional nature of Type A bulbs is now quantified (before LED bulbs there was no pressing need to do that).

    Learn to read critically, people. There is more to good reading than just getting through an article in record time. Identifying significant details is also important, and in technical (versus pleasure) material, it is often critical. A good technical writer covers the subject in as few words as possible, which means every word is significant. If he says he is talking about Type A, then there is the clear implication that there are other categories that any reader with a working brain could google for if they needed to know more.

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    Will
  13. Re: 9 month test required + uniform radial flux by ColdWetDog · · Score: 5, Funny

    Speaking as a horticultural and interior lighting research director.

    Now that's a pretty impressive euphemism for a marijuana grower.

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