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Not All USB Power Is Created Equal

jfruh writes "We've reached a point in our electronic lives where most of our gadgets draw power from a USB cable, and we have lots of USB ports to choose from — some of which live on other gadgets, some of which live on adapters that plug into your wall or car. But those ports supply wildly varying amounts of power, which can result in hours of difference in how long it takes your phone to charge. The Practical Meter, the product of a successful Kickstarter campaign, can help you figure out which power sources are going to juice up your gadgets the fastest."

37 of 240 comments (clear)

  1. Or use what already exists by cosmin_c · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Like this little thing and also learn what the numbers and values mean. Got two, they work great and they're consistent with more pricier measurement options.

    1. Re:Or use what already exists by cosmin_c · · Score: 5, Informative
    2. Re:Or use what already exists by marcansoft · · Score: 5, Informative

      Or one of these (it also passes through USB 3.0, which is nice):
      http://www.amazon.com/Centech-USB-Power-Meter/dp/B00DAR4ITE

      This isn't new.

    3. Re: Or use what already exists by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Insightful

      But that company isn't paying for a slashvertisement.

    4. Re:Or use what already exists by bobbutts · · Score: 5, Insightful

      How do you connect it without hacking a usb plug just like they're selling or otherwise altering your cable?

    5. Re:Or use what already exists by gl4ss · · Score: 4, Funny

      business plan generator for 2013:

      1. browse dx, find a neat product, that seems practical while being utterly useless for your usual hipster, preferably with nice lights.
      2. ask around your hipster friends if they've heard of such a product. if they have go back to 1.
      3. if not, then track down the manufacturer industry guy from china.
      4. put the fucking thing on kickstarter with reduced features to put down cost(come on, going from a segment display to fucking FOur FUckING LEDS!!).
      5. have them dropship the product from said china guys warehouse
      6. you're in the moneeeyy you're in the moneeeeyyyy.

      --
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    6. Re:Or use what already exists by Lumpy · · Score: 2

      Turn in your Geek card. That will measure Current draw by the device, NOT how much current the device can deliver.

      --
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    7. Re:Or use what already exists by Lumpy · · Score: 2

      Those are utter crap. I have bought and returned two.

      http://www.smarthome.com/21680WH/Cooper-Wiring-TR7745-W-Dual-USB-Charger-with-15A-Duplex-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle-White/p.aspx

      This one however works flawlessly with an iphone, ipad, nexus7 and a Nexus 4.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    8. Re:Or use what already exists by Andy+Dodd · · Score: 2

      One issue with this (and many other power meters) is - What is the burden voltage of the ammeter? e.g. how much voltage does it drop.

      Meters can often have a burden voltage of 0.1-0.2 volts when measuring currents on the order of an ampere. This might not seem like much, but considering that the original (2012) Nexus 7 drops charge current by approximately 200 mA for every 0.1 volt drop below 5.0 volts - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2065404 - 0.2 volts can drop your power by 400 mA (around 2 watts) - Many initial characterizations of Nexus 7 charging severely underreported charging current because the meter's burden voltage caused the device to reduce charging current.

      Also, most devices now charge well in excess of 5 watts - so a meter that only shows that you're in the 5-10W range but not where in that range you are isn't very useful.

      Last but not least - Forcing a device to pull more than 500 mA from a laptop can damage the laptop. That's a blatent violation of the USB charging standard. Yes, some hosts now support higher charging currents AND the method for reporting this is standardized as part of the USB charging standard - but making a device assume it is always connected to a wall charger could do damage if you connect it to an SDP (Standard Downstream Port) instead of a CDP (Charging Downstream Port).

      (Unfortunately, only the very latest devices can successfully detect a CDP...)

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  2. kickstarter link by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/david-toledo/the-practical-meter-know-your-power

  3. Don't really see the market by mlk · · Score: 3, Insightful

    At work I could plug my phone into the computer or... Buy a second plug, that seams a bit pointless even it if it does knock and hour of the phones charging time.

    At home I do have choice, but why would I really worry as each night it gets charged and has all night. So again an hour does not really matter.

    What am I missing from this?

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    1. Re:Don't really see the market by mean+pun · · Score: 4, Informative

      What am I missing from this?

      One example: my Nexus 7 draws so much power, even when sleeping, that it is possible to connect it to a weakly charging USB port, come back a few hours later, and it has a lower charge level. I'm sure the same is true for other tablets, and possibly even some phones.

    2. Re:Don't really see the market by heypete · · Score: 2

      One example: my Nexus 7 draws so much power, even when sleeping, that it is possible to connect it to a weakly charging USB port, come back a few hours later, and it has a lower charge level. I'm sure the same is true for other tablets, and possibly even some phones.

      Interesting. My wife has a Nexus 7 (2012 edition). It charges just fine (albeit relatively slowly) from 500mA USB chargers. It charges faster with the 2A charger that comes with it, but I've never had issues with it losing charge while plugged in to a standard charger.

      How weak is your "weakly charging" USB port? Is it one on a keyboard or some other low-power accessory, or is it a port on the computer itself?

    3. Re:Don't really see the market by bemymonkey · · Score: 4, Informative

      Your Nexus 7 has runaway background processes. Otherwise there's no way it draws more than 500mA in standby - it would be empty after just a few hours. Check your battery stats to find the culprit...

      My girlfriend's Nexus 7 charges just fine off of good old 500mA USB2.0 ports when it's in standby...

    4. Re:Don't really see the market by Ash+Vince · · Score: 2

      What am I missing from this?

      One example: my Nexus 7 draws so much power, even when sleeping, that it is possible to connect it to a weakly charging USB port, come back a few hours later, and it has a lower charge level. I'm sure the same is true for other tablets, and possibly even some phones.

      I used to have the same problem with an old PC too. If I plugged most devices into my main computer they charged just fine, I had a really shit old small form factor packard bell thing I used to leave always switched on as a router though and if I plugged anything into that to charge via USB it ended up actually drawing power out of the device instead. This was not due to the device though, anything I plugged in to charge did the same thing.

      Weirdly though I could plug anything that needed power to run like a usb stick, or usb modem and it worked fine without any issues.

      --
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    5. Re:Don't really see the market by RabidReindeer · · Score: 4, Informative

      One example: my Nexus 7 draws so much power, even when sleeping, that it is possible to connect it to a weakly charging USB port, come back a few hours later, and it has a lower charge level. I'm sure the same is true for other tablets, and possibly even some phones.

      Interesting. My wife has a Nexus 7 (2012 edition). It charges just fine (albeit relatively slowly) from 500mA USB chargers. It charges faster with the 2A charger that comes with it, but I've never had issues with it losing charge while plugged in to a standard charger.

      How weak is your "weakly charging" USB port? Is it one on a keyboard or some other low-power accessory, or is it a port on the computer itself?

      The Color and Tablet Nook devices have two different charge rates. If you use the official "USB" cable with the LED indicator in it, it charges at a 1A (2A?) rate. If you use a stock micro USB cable, it charges at the official 500ma rate. The decision is made by the Nook itself, based on info from extra pins that are in the custom cable.

      Which (blankety-blank-censored-blank) is no longer available. And since the cables are no longer made or sold and since they were notoriously prone to fail means that I've been trickle-charging my unit for about a year now.

      Moral of story: always check new toys for screwball cables before buying.

    6. Re:Don't really see the market by necro81 · · Score: 4, Informative

      How weak is your "weakly charging" USB port

      The USB spec - ya know, that thing that every device carrying the USB logo is supposed to follow - permits a connected device to draw a maximum of 100 mA until it is properly recognized (enumerated) by the host. This is probably what the GP is referring to: 0.5 W of available power (less after conversion efficiency) isn't a whole lot for a device like a Nexus 7.

      After being enumerated, the connected device can request higher current levels, up to 500 mA max. It isn't supposed to draw more unless the host permits it. For many modern portable electronics (e.g., smartphones) that have a 3-10 Whr battery, a 2.5-W maximum charge rate isn't much.

      There are amendments to the spec that allow for greater power: in 2009, the spec created a Charging Downstream Port, which allows for up to 1.5 A from the host after enumeration; and the Dedicated Charging Port (DCP), which shorts the two data lines together and allows for 1.5 A charge power without enumeration.

      Individual companies, such as Apple and Samsung, supply their own USB chargers that allow for even greater charge current, but do so in a way that technically violates the USB spec.

    7. Re:Don't really see the market by mspohr · · Score: 2

      There is a known issue with some Android devices where they don't go into sleep mode and will discharge rapidly even when connected to a charger.
      I had this with my Nexus 4 but it's been reported in many different devices.
      Lots of random advice in forums on how to fix it but the problem still seems to exist.
      http://androidforums.com/samsung-galaxy-s4-active/733289-s4-active-wont-go-in-sleep-mode-when-charging.html
      http://forums.androidcentral.com/google-nexus-7-tablet-2013/314761-battery-drain-sleep-mode.html

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  4. It's not sex... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Being the fastest might not be the best for your battery life.

  5. Faster isn't always better by Lennie · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I believe most types of battery when charged faster actually degrade faster.

    Life fast die fast ;-)

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    New things are always on the horizon
  6. Basically an Ammeter by hcs_$reboot · · Score: 4, Informative

    Instead of that ugly one, you may get something that gives an exact value, like this one. A new iPhone/iPad expects 2A, the MacBook (10W) expects also 10/5 = 2A.

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    1. Re:Basically an Ammeter by hcs_$reboot · · Score: 3, Funny

      Typical slashvertising

      Impossible, I disabled ads thanks to

      As our way of thanking you for your positive contributions to Slashdot, you are eligible to disable advertising.

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    2. Re:Basically an Ammeter by CODiNE · · Score: 2

      That won't work as USB amperage is based on resister sensing.

      --
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  7. won't help for Samsung note 2 by leehwtsohg · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Samsung seems to measure the "reliability" of the supply or the cable, and limits power based on those values. Then the same supply will charge at different rates depending on the cable used.

    1. Re:won't help for Samsung note 2 by AmiMoJo · · Score: 4, Informative

      Indeed they do. If the charger says "I can supply 1.5A" but due to thin wires in the long, cheap cable that results in a significant voltage drop the device backs down to a lower level.

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    2. Re:won't help for Samsung note 2 by ThatsNotPudding · · Score: 4, Funny

      Indeed they do. If the charger says "I can supply 1.5A" but due to thin wires in the long, cheap cable that results in a significant voltage drop the device backs down to a lower level.

      This is why I build my own USB leads using #00 welding cable.

    3. Re:won't help for Samsung note 2 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      Voltage loss over such a cable is very real. At 0.14 mm^2 (AWG 26) you get 0.14 mOhm/m. For a 2m cable, 2 wires you end up with 0.56 Ohm. At 1.5 A that's a voltage drop of 0.84V.

      Also note that such a cable is only rated for 0.36 A

  8. Re:External DVD drives by Joining+Yet+Again · · Score: 4, Insightful

    In what way is it "good and practical" to ignore a standard, possibly damaging electronics which assume the standard by providing a variable non-guaranteed maximum current? At worst this is a fire hazard, as you'd end up delivering an unreasonably high current. If the device isn't intelligent enough to ask for the right current, it should be delivered a safe trickle - as the USB standard asks.

  9. Re: External DVD drives by Joining+Yet+Again · · Score: 4, Insightful

    A USB port should react gracefully to a defective USB device - either limiting current or cutting power if draw is too high. It should not give the malfunctioning device the opportunity to catch fire by delivering it as much current as possible.

    Liberal in what you accept; conservative in what you send.

  10. Re: External DVD drives by evilviper · · Score: 2

    It's not the job of the power supply to protect malfunctioning devices from themselves. It's the job of the devices to have fuses, regulators, etc. This has been true, forever.

    Your wall outlets will provided whatever is requested. Your car's alternator and battery will do the same. 12V devices plugged into a cig plug will get whatever they want, if they were designed so poorly as to not have a dammed fuse.

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  11. Re: External DVD drives by niftydude · · Score: 2

    This. A couple of years ago I plugged a defective DVD drive into an alienware notebook. It smoked the DVD drive, then blew up the entire USB subsystem of the notebook.

    Needless to say, I don't recommend alienware to anyone anymore.

    --
    You can never know everything, and part of what you do know will always be wrong. Perhaps even the most important part.
  12. Re: External DVD drives by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Yeah, but the power supply should protect itself. If the damn thing is connected directly to the laptops 5V rail it's possible to make the laptops 5V drop by plugging in a defective decvice. That in turn means all kinds of weird shit might happen, including data corruption and hardware deaths.

  13. Apple vs. Other Devices by coolmoose25 · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I'm an Apple Abhorrent... I don't use any of their products, not even an Ipod. I'm an Android/Windows guy. But my daughter decided she had to have an iPhone and bought it with her own money. I have one of those little plugs you put in a cigarette lighter in the car. My car has two up front, one that is ignition keyed, the other is always on. The dongle is in the one that is always on. And I have a standard USB cable to charge phones and other devices from it. It charges all of my Android phones fine. It charges the GPS fine. It charges pads like the Galaxy Tab and the Nexus fine. It won't charge my daughter's iPhone, even with her white Apple USB cord. To this situation, my daughter tells me that the little dongle I have is a POS. I smiled and was reminded, yet again, why I won't buy Apple products.

    --
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  14. Re: External DVD drives by plover · · Score: 2

    Any device that reacts badly to too much current is poorly designed or defective.

    Yes, and if I own such a defective device, I certainly don't want it starting a fire. The thing about electronics is that most people could own a defective component and not know until it's caused some other problem.

    Electronic devices can have latent defects: poor insulation that's barely adequate to protect the device through testing, shipping, and installation, but as you use the device and move a wire repeatedly, the gap in the insulation causes a short. Should the purchaser be satisfied simply by knowing that he can sue the manufacturer for damages caused by fires? Does it mean the purchaser should never take other precautions, such as installing fuses, or buying equipment with current limiters?

    Thanks, but I want to take all the measures available to me to ensure safety.

    --
    John
  15. Re: External DVD drives by silas_moeckel · · Score: 2

    No your wall outlets provide up to what the wire running to them will support past that and the breaker trips or the fuse pops (granted it's often much after but still generally safe for the wire). Newer homes have arc faults in a lot of places that protect from even more.

    Same thing for your car every branch circuit has a fuse of a given rating try getting more than 15 amps through your 12v accessory outlet.

    Pretty much the rule is you can not step down the permanent wire size without an over current protection device.

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  16. Custom cables are almost always unnecessary by sjbe · · Score: 3, Informative

    Which (blankety-blank-censored-blank) is no longer available. And since the cables are no longer made or sold and since they were notoriously prone to fail means that I've been trickle-charging my unit for about a year now.

    Exactly why I avoid devices with weird custom cables whenever possible in consumer electronics. It's been my experience that unless a custom cable is so popular as to become a standard itself (like Apple's Lightning) that eventually you are going to run into a problem. Furthermore it adds to the cost of the device (custom cables = $) and it usually means that the company making the device had lazy and/or incompetent engineers. Now admittedly the USB spec is pretty flawed, particularly when it comes to power, but even so I've still seen lots of devices that could have used standard USB (or Firewire etc) had they taken the time to do so.

    Now sometimes the standard needs to be updated. I think USB should be beefed up to handle up to 100 watts with all due haste.

    Bear in mind that my day job is to run a company that makes custom cables. Think about that. I make a living off of custom cables, have the ability and equipment to make a copy of pretty much any cable, and I still think they are a bad idea for most consumer electronics.

  17. Bad phone design by DrYak · · Score: 2

    One example: my Nexus 7 draws so much power, even when sleeping, that it is possible to connect it to a weakly charging USB port, come back a few hours later, and it has a lower charge level.

    If you need a portable fusion reactor to power your tablet and/or phone *while it is sleeping* then there's something really wrong with your device.

    (Bad hardware design, bad OS power management, or you installed too much background shit).

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