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Why Munich Will Stick With Linux
Jason Hibbets writes: "There are many solved problems in open source. Groupware is not one of them," Georg Greve, co-founder and CEO of Kolab System starts off his post highlighting recent features of the latest release of the Kolab groupware project. He calls out a few newly elected politicians that don't like the current set-up, but says that thousands of users don't have the same experience. "Until today, the city of Munich is using the same stand-alone calendaring and email systems it had used when it was still fully operating on Windows. Updating these systems had a lower priority than the migration to LiMux then. But an upgrade is underway now. And, the solution they chose is agnostic to the desktop platform and will service LiMux and Windows alike. The primary difference made by another migration would likely be due to the perils that come with any migration, such as additional costs and delays. In other words: The very problem used to criticize the LiMux desktop is already being solved."
Yes but you usually don't run into this problem when using MSOffice because everyone in the office has the same Office....
Not all offices have the same version of MS Office installed throughout the office. I've been at companies that have had three different versions of MS Office installed, and they did have issues with exchanging documents. The easiest solution was just to tell everyone to "save as an old MS Office format" when a document needed to be shared.
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Moving form office to office, I've found that LibreOffice does better than MS Office at properly importing office documents from various versions of MS Office. YMMV.
"Yes but you usually don't run into this problem when using MSOffice because everyone in the office has the same Office. "
No, no they dont.
My experience is that when new versions of Word have problems opening a file created by a previous version, the solution is to open them in OpenOffice and use OO to save to the newest MS Word format (or leave them as odt).
In that way, OpenOffice has BETTER compatibility with various types of MS Word documents than MS Word itself does.
A person who assumes anything computer related is easy for a non-technical users should not be allowed to make suggestions on what is right for home users.
I consider changing disk brake rotors, pads and calipers easy. Can you give me the steps? Please don't skid any because I'm going to call you on it.
FIrst thing you do is raise the vehicle, and remove the wheel or wheels depending on the proficiency of your setup. Let's assume you do one side at a time., so I'll go singular.
Remove the bolts that hold the caliper onto the wheel.
Remove the caliper assembly from the wheel and rotor.
Remove the rotor
Troubleshooting steps if not just replacing the rotor:
Before removing the rotor, check for runout. Best way to do this is with a dial gauge. If out of spec, replace. Symptoms that there might be excessive runout or warpage would be if the brakes were pulsating when you were coming to a stop. Remove the rotor. Inspect the rotor for grooving from the pads.
If you will resurface the rotors due to grooving, measure the thickness of the rotor using calipers. There is a minimum thickness allowable depending on the vehicle.
Replace or reface as needed.
Replacement of pads
Remove bolts holding caliper together.
Remove old pads and discard or return to parts jobber. Some pads will have anti vibration shims. Do not discard unless your replacement pads include them.
Compress the caliper piston. I use a small chunk of wood and a C clamp to do this. Place the wood on top of the piston, and the c clamp on that. Open the brake bleeder valve, tighten the c clamp and place a can to catch expelled brake fluid.
After compressing the caliper piston, note the apparent condition of the piston by how it felt during compression. Inspect the brake fluid. If dirty or burnt smelling, or possible water contamination. replace the brake fluid.
Install new pads into caliper, and anti-vibration shims if used.
Install refaced or replacement rotor. Some shops I have known use a sort of hone on new rotors. Since most shade tree mechanics don't have these, it's optional. I haven't seen much of a difference.
Using a torque wrench, reinstall the caliper onto the wheel.
When finished, and using a helper, bleed the brakes. I've always pumped the brakes a few times, then opened the bleeder valve, allowed any air to escape, then shut the valve before releasing the brakes. Replace the fluid you removed during caliper compression. When only fluid comes out, tighten the bleeder valve, and move to the next wheel as needed. Brake bleeding is finished when the brakes have normal travel when pressed. Top off the master cylinder as needed with fresh brake fluid.
Give it a final inspection, then reinstall the tires.
Take a test drive to be certain the brakes work correctly.
Obviously during the process you look for worn or leaking hoses, brake lines, or vacuum lines for power brakes as needed, and during the bleeding process you note if there is any apparent pedal fade, which might indicate the need to replace the master cylinder.
I've done this a few dozen times. It is easy, and installing linux is a fucktub easier than changing out rotors and calipers.
The shepherds did so well protecting the flock that the sheep no longer believed that wolves existed.