Ask Slashdot: Best Service To Digitize VHS Home Movies?
An anonymous reader writes Could someone recommend a service to convert old VHS home movies to a lossless archival format such as FFV1? The file format needs to be lossless so I can edit and convert the files with less generation loss, it needs 4:1:1 or better chroma subsampling in order to get the full color resolution from the source tapes, and preferably it should have more than 8 bits per channel of color in order to avoid banding while correcting things like color, brightness, and contrast.
So far, the best VHS archival services I've found use either the DV codec or QuickTime Pro-Res, both of which are lossy.
So far, the best VHS archival services I've found use either the DV codec or QuickTime Pro-Res, both of which are lossy.
If one of the service offers QuickTime Pro-Res, they can probably also offer QuickTime Animation instead. Just ask them.
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Arguing that Quick Pro Res compression is lossy for VHS input is really stretching your obsessive disorder about maintaining quality, especially since you mention you are going to be *correcting* the input anyway, so it is not *exactly* the same any more as the source. So what's next, after storing GiB of pixel perfect replicas you will lose them to disk corruption because you don't implement reed solomon codes on your storage?
If the overall quality is a high priority to you then why not get a decent video capture device and do it yourself? By the way, if it's all on analog video tape like VHS, isn't it going to have degraded somewhat all by itself over time anyway? I've still got some VHS tapes I recorded myself that are at least 10 years old, and a high-end Sony VCR I kept (used to have two) and even though they were brand-new 'broadcast quality' tapes recorded at 2-hour speed, they really don't look all that great now. Honestly if it were I, and it was that important, I'd get a good video capture device, capture it all to the most uncompressed format I could, and do the editing myself.
Are YOU using the TOOL, or is the TOOL using YOU? Think about it!
I converted a few tapes with a a $40 gadget (Diamond One Touch Video Capture VC500MAC) and was happy with the results.
By comparison, the one service I checked out charges $12 each tape, plus shipping etc. -- and takes three weeks!
If you have more than a half dozen tapes to convert, you may do well buying a converter. You could let it run at night, then pay somebody $15/hour to do the finishing work (conversion to ProRes or whatever).
(I realize that this doesn't directly answer your question... but is an option worth considering.)
Tom Geller
Devices that can do raw videos are quite expensive. If you want a simple/cheap solution, Apple ProRes is a quite good intermediary format. I would recommend just recording to ProRes, using a noise/grain filters/editing it, and finally converting to H.264.
Prores 422 hq is plenty. You don't need to capture the subtle details of all the VHS artifacts and it's limited color gamut. Generational losses aren't an issue either. Don't worry about greater than 8 bits per channel either--the information you are trying to preserve is non-existent.
Seriously, just get it into a quality format that will stand the test of time. Prores is used widely professionally and will be around a long time.
Fuck VHS....my Samsung galaxy s5 does not even understand VHS it wants to auto correct to vs. When a new phone is like wif then you must get rid of.
This question is better suited for Doom9.
Along with Lagarith and to a lesser extent, UT Video. All of them are open source (so you can implement them on the platform of your choice in the future), lossless, and support 4:2:2 chroma subsampling.
If your source tapes do not require special handling (water damage, mold, etc), these guys can handle it and the prices are reasonable: http://www.digitalfaq.com/serv...
They'll output to whatever format you specify, including the above codecs. Any decent place should. If the places you looked at are limited to DV, that is a sure sign they are using analog to firewire bridges. With HuffYUV, you can fit one hour of video in roughly 25GB. In the age of TB sized hard drives, that is nothing. So space shouldn't be an excuse, particularly if the customer sends in a blank external HD for the final product.
...s-video/composite/audio input - almost all of them, even the "cheap-o" $20 models, have these inputs. Simply record to MPEG-2 and from there convert to f.e. h.264 in .mp4 using Handbrake (http://handbrake.fr) or similar.
Does the original magnetic tape have those properties?
Unlikely unless it's S-VHS and even then, I don't think so if it was recorded on any normal household camera (quote from the Wiki: "In VHS, the chroma carrier is both severely bandlimited and rather noisy, a limitation that S-VHS does not address" - and they mention that S-VHS tapes were used to record 20-bit audio, but only if you were prepared to use several minutes of videotape for one minute of audio, so the chances that it recorded colour with even 8-bit accuracy is unlikely).
You have to think mathematically - significant digits. If the original only have 3 significant digits, there's absolutely NO POINT in worrying about anything with 3 or more significant digits handling it. All you're preserving is error anyway.
You know what? Digitise it yourself if you're that worried. Get a capture card (good luck finding one that captures RAW), plug it into a high-end VHS player, stick it all in 32-bit PNG channels if you want. The end result will be so insignificantly different to your original but will cost ORDERS OF MAGNITUDE more.
I'm with you on quality, I get that, and you want to get that stuff off tape sooner rather than later if it holds any kind of emotional significance to you (chances are, your holiday tapes from the 80's will never be played again once you're dead, and only a handful of times until then). But you're really trying to go too far because you've heard some things on audiophile/videophile websites and the like and think you have to do that.
You know what? The extra time spent with your family, and the extra money to follow the kid's hobbies, will more than make up for any theoretical loss in the MPEG encoding of some home movies. And, at the end of the day, so long as you can see who the people in the movie are and what's happening, who cares about the fine detail? You can't Bladerunner it back to 4K, so what you do now will not degrade in the future. And, chances are, what you do now is higher quality than anything on the original tapes anyway (unless you intend to capture the missing parts of the TV interlace somehow?).
Give it up. Buy a GBP20 adaptor from your local store. Buy a slide-and-film scanner while you're there. Have a night in with the family where you're all doing one job - scanning, sorting, cleaning, labelling, filing, archiving - and get everything you have in your archives digitised. Copy it to friends and family (who, honestly, really won't care but will be polite). Then forget about it until little Johnny is 18 and you want to embarrass him in front of his girlfriend.
I had a bunch of old home movies converted to CD and unfortunately they are still boring.
Just buy a capture card or converter and use FFMPEG to convert it directly. That's what I've done to all my old VHS collection using a Diamond VC500.
Harrison's Postulate - "For every action there is an equal and opposite criticism"
Search eBay for a Panasonic AG-1980 or AG-5710 (they're the same machine, the 5710 has no TV tuner though.) Then grab an analog to digital converter, like the Canopus/Grass Valley/Belden ADVC110. Plug it all in and you can capture to whatever editing program you would like.
If you want even better quality, you can get a capture card like the ones from Blackmagic or AJA. I don't think the increase in quality of your capture card and codec will be noticeable though. It's likely the VHS tape will be your quality-limiting factor.
Do you have Asperger's? Who's going to watch these, how many times??? Who cares???
I don't know of any services. The only way I know would be to get my own gear:
1. S-VHS VCR. Even if your tapes weren't recorded in this higher-resolution format, S-VHS VCRs make VHS tapes look better.
2. Analog-to-digital capture card, like from Blackmagic Design or Grass Valley. Make sure it has an S-video input jack.
3. S-video cables. This cable keeps the brightness and color portions of the picture separate as it goes from the VCR to your computer. This is the best you can do from VHS. The only thing better would be RGB cables or some kind of digital output from the VCR, but no VCR has such outputs. The best is S-video, and only S-VHS VCRs have that. However, it is noticeably better than the standard composite cable, the single RCA jack, typically yellow, on most VCRs.
4. Time-base corrector (optional). The capture card might do this well enough. If not, this device would stabilize and correct the video signal. So you would connect your VCR to the time-base corrector, and the time-base corrector to your VCR --- all with S-video cables.
For your capture format, I guess you could go completely uncompressed, but ProRes is 10-bit 4:2:2 and already overkill for VHS.
So in the end, at best, you can hope for rather fuzzy looking digitizations.
Video has come so far that these VHS tapes will look like crap compared to what we regularly see now.
Your best bet is to get a digitizer, set it up with a spare computer, and rip them. Then after burning to media, the results are best fondly remembered, and not watched.
The shepherds did so well protecting the flock that the sheep no longer believed that wolves existed.
Agree 100% with parent. Just wanted to add: Lossy encoding means losing high-frequency information. Sometimes that's important. More often than not it's ghosting from over-the-air reception, noisy playback, or tape deterioration. In other words: The lossy MPEG looks a lot nicer than the original perfect copy of crap!
For my money, if you really want to do it, get a decent encoder. Hauppage makes a few. Hook it up to a computer with a really big harddrive. Start a tape running every night before you go to bed. Perhaps another in the morning. Review when time permits.
I bought a Samsung DVD Recorder that also had a hard drive, tapes were recorded at a rate of about 2Gb per hour and when the hard drive was full I just removed it and connected it to my media server. All of the recordings were there in AVI format and all I needed to do was change the file names.
As pointed out above, VHS is a poor quality recording compared with recent technology so there's no point using a high specification method to digitize the tapes.
Disclaimer I used to work with Colin a decade or two ago but he is apparently well set up to do this kind of work these days and I suspect he will wring out the best that can be done in a transfer.
http://www.video99.co.uk/l
Facts are history now plebs have politics for religion on social media.
Plug the output of a VHS player into the input of a DV camcorder, press record.
The most important thing is to do it now. I've been doing video work for many years now and I have to tell you that VHS is still going to be VHS. Granted there is theorietical loss when you edit and re-compress it, but it will be far, far, far better than what we used to get with tape duplication. VHS is realistically on a par with 320 x 240 resolution mpeg1; if it was done with the absolute best quality available 10 years ago it may be 640x480 at mpeg2. Maybe.
Do not waste a bunch of time finding the best technical solution. The best technical solution is the one you use This Week to begin the long boring job of digitizing it. Do not wait. That is the best advice you will get here or anywhere else.
mo
I tried this with a machine you could get off the shelf. It's basically a VCR with output that connects to your computer. The computer can then encode the video as you see fit. Sadly, the quality was terrible. VHS tapes don't have all that great quality compared to modern DVDs and hi-res streaming. Most of the tapes were staticy and I gave up after about a half dozen.
You are probably better off buying your videos in a digital format and replacing your old tapes a few at a time. Unless you are ripping VHS home movies (which cannot be purchased, obviously) then you are probably better off replacing rather than transferring.
Get the Atomos Ninja, record it in ProRes. Seriously, this codec is indistinguishable from RAW on an eyeball level. For VHS, it is waaaaay overkill, might as well just use MPEG2 for VHS (just being facetious). And its not like you are going to play the ProRes and re-record it to another ProRes device. That would be dumb. Just copy the file, there will be no loss of bits and bytes and what-not.
Any video8 suggestions???
I have tons of tapes, but camcorder no longer works.
I have tried to rent a video8 VCR, unsuccessfully
Any help is welcome.
Thanks.
Where I live we have a public audio-video archive that does conversions for free, but they ask for a copy if something of value for the community is on the footage, like festivals, concerts, parades or views of public places in the past and stuff like that.
Check that first, you can't beat 'free'.
VHS at source is 576x320 (PAL I specification). Analogue broadcast limit is 768x576 (again, PAL I). MiniDV is 720x480 which is plenty for a VHS rip, in fact you'd be introducing noise as the system interpolates pixels. My experienced advice: use the napkin max for VHS, which is as mentioned 576x320 at 25fps or 480x320/30 (NTSC) through component, or 352x288 (either system) through composite. As you're digital from that point on, the only thing that's going to degrade image quality is transitioning and complex CGFX.
Short of it is, you are not going to get HDDVD quality (720p) output from a domestic VHS rip even if you use the most expensive gear you can get your hands on linked with solid gold and oxygen free cables. In fact, the best quality VHS rip you're going to get is doable with a Pentium III laptop and a KWorld composite dongle.
Political debates have me rolling my eyes so much I think I got optical whiplash. I should sue. - Foamy The Squirrel
Why are you assuming that he's transferring crappy home videos? I read it as he has something really important (Kennedy assassination, first moon landing, Star Wars Holiday Special raw footage, lost Dr. Who episodes, proof of life on Mars) and wants to make absolutely sure that he captures even the noise floor as someone might well spend lots of time trying to recover from 1E-4 SNR.
I'm a professional video editor, and I can tell you flat out that lossy codecs are not necessarily bad. DV is a very solid option, it's supported by all software. ProRes is fantastic, but it's OS X only, unless you want to shell out several hundred dollars for a Windows codec plugin. In most software, if you edit with the DV or ProRes codecs, frames will only be recompressed if you actually change the image data. If all you're doing is straight cuts editing, then your exported, edited frames will be bit-for-bit identical to the originals. If you do need to adjust the video, add transitions, etc., then frames will be recompressed. But you will be very hard pressed to visually detect any generation loss. You'll need to repeat that process through ten iterations before you see any image degradation. And remember, your original footage is VHS, which is hardly broadcast quality to begin with.
Make sure the service you find does cable straightening or uses "MASSIVE" brand cables.
This ensures all the 1's and 0's get through. Cables with kinks can cause some of the 1's to get stuck.
I use 1 inch diameter cables to import all my VHS video footage.
Why would you trust your VHS footage to anything less?
I like microcars
Look for a Telecine service house they do all the professional film transfer work. The rates I'm seeing is about $150 to $200 an hour plus drives. 10 bit uncompressed SD is around 2 gig a minute. I have to think it is 4:2:2 since that is what most listed for HD. If it something you are going to edit you might want a ProRes copy as well which is about a 4 to 1 compression to make your workflow and drives easier to handle. You can also do color correction and other post work if that is needed.
Don't use a mail-order service. The tapes could be exposed to magnetic fields from a variety of sources. The tech will most likely record in a lossy format and then export to your lossless format.
Do record multiple passes, preferably from different playback devices.
Save the multiple passes so in the future they can be sent through reconstruction software to correct for tape rot, etc. Enhancement software normally uses consecutive frames, but it might help having two interpretations of corrupted magnetic tape.
"Get a capture card (good luck finding one that captures RAW), plug it into a high-end VHS player, stick it all in 32-bit PNG channels if you want. The end result will be so insignificantly different to your original but will cost ORDERS OF MAGNITUDE more."
All capture cards with standard Windows drivers can capture "RAW". End user get to choose what compression to use. Also, why would anyone capture video as PNG files? There are several lossless video compression formats.
I've got some on old reel 8mm tape.
I think the point is that he doesn't want the picture to degrade even more. Just because it's not the best now, if you use shitty equipment it will go from not good to total crap. There are some nice vhs edit decks on ebay for not bad prices. I bought a dual 8mm deck off there that cost nearly 2 grand new for only 150 bucks. The output was indistinguishable from the original.
I tried capturing boxes of old tapes, and gave up because it was so time consuming. So I sent a box to ScanCafe (who had done great work scanning tons of old pics), and they did a really good job. Yes I could have done it myself, but yes I am glad that I sent it to them,
And no I am not a ScanCafe rep, or have any interest in promoting them. I just had a good experience.
Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a difficult battle. - Plato
Bought a used panasonic svhs deck with svideo out and a time base corrector. Got a used capture card that has svideo in. I used an xfi card I had laying around to capture the audio at 48khz 16 bit (for dvd/ac3). It is possible to get old pro-grade vhs equipment with component outputs and a requisite component in capture device, but this is more money, and I wasn't convinced it would make much difference over a short-run svideo link for low grade standard vhs.
After installing lagarith lossless video codec, I used virtualdub to capture the video/audio output of the vhs player at 720x480. This results in losslessly compressed avi which could be edited in virtualdub to cut out unwanted parts, or it can be loaded in vegas or premier. After the editing, avisynth scripts could optionally be used to filter the noise out. There are gpu enabled plugins for it that work really well for this. After the editing and tweaking of the optional avisynth filters, the footage is probably as good as it will get. Just load up the scripts in virtualdub and reencode back to lagarith again, or if the filtering was skipped, just save out the edits made back to lagarith.
I also wanted my stuff on dvd to hand to non-technical family, so I used hcenc to push the avisynth script to dvd compliant mpeg2. This encoder does an excellent job and takes avisynth scripts as input. For the ac3 audio, I used aften. I used dvdlab to create menus and master the dvd image. I suppose if menus aren't needed, the dvdlab step could be skipped by using dvdauthor, instead, to create the dvd-video file structure and imgburn to burn it to a disc. I do recommend at least placing indexes at regular intervals so that the video can be skipped through with the chapter skip buttons.
This windows-centric method really wasn't that hard and should be doable with OSS equivalents. In terms of cost, the deck I managed to get my hands on cost me $100, and the dvdlab software is cheap (free as in beer and uncrippled if you use it within the first 30 days of installation). Like everything else, it's a cost/benefit ratio calculation, but I really doubt anyone else could've gotten a better result, even with pro-grade hardware.
lagarith
http://lags.leetcode.net/codec...
hanks's mpeg2 encoder
http://hank315.nl/
virtualdub
http://virtualdub.org/
ac3 audio encoder
http://aften.sourceforge.net/
to master the mpeg2/ac3 elementary streams from hcenc and aften into dvd-video
http://dvdauthor.sourceforge.n...
optional, if you want a nice gui for menus and mastering/authoring of a dvd-video compliant image/disc.
http://www.mediachance.com/dvd...
to filter the video. requires learning its scripting syntax, and reasonably powerful gpu if you want to use the gpu accelerated plugins
http://avisynth.nl/index.php/M...
I think the point is that he doesn't want the picture to degrade even more.
And the counterpoint is that even a $20 dongle capturing MPEG2 is going to have a far finer degree of quality in the capture than can be fed in by VHS tape under even the best of circumstances. If you're catching 1" marbles with a 0.5" screen filter, moving to a 0.25" screen filter won't catch you any more marbles.
Homemoviedepot (http://www.homemoviedepot.com/) has an option where they send you an
uncompressed version on a harddrive instead of recompressing it to a dvd.
I've used them for 8mm and they are easy to work with and can probably tell you more about
their process.
VHS quality is rather poor to begin with so the quality of the conversion is probably not
as important as it is to make sure that it doesn't get compressed or reconverted multiple times.
I bought a Magnavox ZV427MG9 DVD Recorder/VCR, available at Amazon for about $280, or on a Sears website for $180. I converted a large tub of precious family VHS tapes directly to DVD in this machine. I played around with different resolutions, but the highest resolution was visibly better, so I went with that. Then I copied the VOB files from the DVD's to my computer, and imported them into Cyberlink's PowerDirector, which has no trouble with the VOB files. The VOB files have a frame width and height of 720x480 at 29 frames/second, which I think gets the most information possible from these old VHS tapes. From PowerDirector, I can save these videos in a variety of formats, keeping the 720x480 and 29 frames/second, such as MP2, MP4, H-264, etc, etc. This has worked extremely well for me, and I think justified for my family the purchase of the machine. We are sharing it around to increase the benefit of purchasing it. In doing a bit of research before this project I read that combined DVD Recorder/VCR's automatically kept the voice in sync with the video, a problem apparently with some capture cards. I can only report excellent results for myself, given of course that VHS recordings aren't of the quality of modern hi def recordings.
Why are the link to Marching ants got screwed ?
Here I post the link as it is - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M...
Muchas Gracias, Señor Edward Snowden !
If you are trying to copy a commercial tape or anything you recorded off-the-air, most places won't touch it without a copyright clearance.
Some may bend a bit if it's something that clearly has no commercial value, like a 20-year-old news clip showing your kid winning a high school football game. But don't count on it.
For /. readers who have the complete Tom Baker Dr. Who episodes complete with PBS pledge breaks showing a much-younger you manning the phone bank, good luck finding a company that will copy those for you. They *might* copy the pledge breaks but not the Dr. Who.
Knowledge is how to play a game, intelligence is how to win, wisdom is knowing what game to play.
Take them to CostCo. They digitized some movies I had taken in Russia in 1997 and they looked great.
Any recommendation on which Video Capture Device to buy?
Or, alternatively, any link that you can suggest which does a truthful comparison on the various Video Capture Devices on the market?
Thanks!
I used a JVC hr-s3911u I bought some years ago and a Hauppage 150 card
with Linux. Use the S-VHS connection.
I have a recording of the Star Wars Holiday Special made on one of the first
4-hour units. That VCR had skinnier heads than a two-hour VHS.
Compared to what I've seen floating around, my recording is noticeably sharper.
Alas, my reception wasn't the greatest.
Some capture cards are more tolerant of time base instability than others.
You have to think mathematically - significant digits. If the original only have 3 significant digits, there's absolutely NO POINT in worrying about anything with 3 or more significant digits handling it. All you're preserving is error anyway.
Incorrect and bad advice for analogue sources with a digital conversion.
Analogue doesnt use digits, its not digital.
The beauty of analogue is that it doesnt comply to 1's and 0's. Its a wild beast of waves. When you convert those analogue waves to digital, you will always loose quality in the conversion.
So using the highest possible digital sample and bit depth ensures we have the best digital conversion possible. Anyone who tells you otherwise isn't a perfectionist.
Example:
If recording analogue audio at 44,000 digital samples per second, we can get 4.3 times the sample rate (and accuracy/quality) when using 192,000 samples per second. Sticking to 44khz means you lose alot of possible data from analogue sources. We essentially could be missing areas of the analogue sample after conversion.
If your VHS videos mean alot to you, and you want the best digital conversion:
- Do it yourself
- Buy the best hardware available for your budget. By ensuring the source input (eg: tape player) is the highest quality possible will make most of the difference.
- The video capture card is also key here, find one that has high end DAC's and high digital sample/bit rates to match.
- use the highest possible bit and sample rates you can for digital conversion (ideally match the capture cards max specs, anything higher than those will just result in resampling digital, which you dont want).
- Save the video+audio as "RAW, no compression", then when you get time, research a lossless codec to suit your needs.
- The video capture card is also key here, find one that has high end DAC's and high digital sample/bit rates to match.
Mistype without morning coffee:
The video capture card is also key here, find one that has high end ADC (analogue to digital converter) and high digital sample/bit rates to match.
Sometimes i wish slashdot had a 3 minute edit window and delay before updating after posting, really do.
I typed "vhs" and "betamax" into my text app... recognizes, capitalizes fine..
The analogue signal on a VHS tape corresponds to an exact (enough) representation of a PAL or NTSC signal, which you can capture in as much detail as you like but it will hardly vary.
The storage mechanism may be able to cope with more, but the actual useful data that could ever come out down a cable is limited to a quite precise specification. As such, higher resolution samples aren't going to help.
Also, VHS isn't entirely analogue. It has a magnetic representation on tape that is - again - highly specified to enable readback.
As such, it's not akin to, say, photographic slides or negatives (but even they have a useful resolution beyond which we won't see any advantage in delving), but more akin to storing computer data on audio cassette - something which formats like TZX encompass entirely even if they do not store every single magnetic charge that may be on the tape.
Your magnetic tape is 0's and 1's, by the way. Stored using a helical layout to stripe them around the tape.
The lossy is not an issue comment may come close to answering the question... however, I do not think anyone answered the question... the person wants to have the tapes digitized to a lossless format for archiving. This implies post editing without MORE degradation than the tape already has. The question also implies creating a digital copy that in 15 or 30 years, has a chance of being playable on a PC or some digital media player. I would also like to know of a lossless video/audio codec and maybe a freeware piece of software that can grab the stream from a video capture card to edit and store video. I use a Happauge USB TV tuner card to capture video from a VHS player or a passthrough on a DVD player from my VHS-C player. I capture to DVD quality recordings but one it is digitized, I find it difficult to find a frame editor to trim the video. I have not tried post editing color or audio in the movies, I only wanted them to be playable as-is in the future, not clean them up. Personally, I keep old compressed VMs and some basic instructions around to allow for reinstallation of old Windows software and old media playing software for most of my stored digital content. The instructions include gaining access to external storage drives outside the VMs or to access cd and dvd images in the forms of ISO files.
> Your heart is true, you're a pal and a cosmonaut.
Change approved.
In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is kinky.
I use EyeTV "hybrid" by ELGato. I connect my VCR/DVD player to my computer using the RCA jacks on Hybrid. I can watch and /or copy anything.
I did my music too.
> My buddies dad still owns porn on Betamax.
Tsk. There's no accounting for people's weird fetishes.
Years ago, I became obsessive with producing high-quality DVDs from my extensive VHS/LaserDisc collection. Eventually, that led to the creation of y4mdenoise, part of the mjpegtools package. If you're willing to spend the time to let your computer chew on your digitized video, this tool will squeeze virtually all of the noise out of your signal.
Without it, you're wasting most of your bitrate just to encode noise. A video encoder can't tell the difference between noise and high-frequency detail.
If you don't want to spend that much time, then yuvdenoise, also in the mjpegtools package, does pretty well too.
"Once we've identified and embraced our sickness, we'll have strength...and that's when we get dangerous." - John Waters