Crystal Pattern Matching Recovers Obliterated Serial Numbers From Metal
chicksdaddy writes Criminals beware: researchers at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) have figured out how to recover serial numbers obliterated from metal surfaces such as firearms and automobiles — a common problem in forensic examinations. According to this report, NIST researchers used a technique called electron backscatter diffraction (EBSD) to read, in the crystal structure pattern, imprints on steel that had been removed by polishing. ... The more perfect the crystal structure, the stronger and clearer the pattern. Software can then calculate the pattern quality to reveal crystal damage; areas with more damage produce lower quality patterns. In the NIST experiments, described in Forensic Science International, researchers hammered the letter 'X' into a polished stainless steel plate. The letter stamps were as deep as 140 micrometers, meeting federal regulations for firearm serial numbers. The researchers then polished the metal again to remove all visible traces of the letters, and collected the EBSD diffraction patterns and pattern quality data and analyzed them for evidence of the imprints.
What if you use some tool and hammer to overstamp the serial numbers. Like scribbling over it. Then grind it down. Or if it is in a place that can be heated and cooled... like annealing... where any loss in strength from the operation, were it to happen, wouldn't be an issue. Would that change the underlying crystal structure significantly. I'm sure it would affect it some, but would it be enough to allow the crystal structure to 'reset' and erase the original stamp marks?
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And this becomes largely irrelevant
The FBI has been recovering filed off serial numbers for at least a decade based on the changes in metal grain that result from stamping. Is this just a more sensitive method for doing that?
If you do it stupidly, like put a "1" through an "A", it would be fairly obvious and narrow the search down.
Punching 1 through an A leaves the firearm with two possible choices in that digit. Do this for 9 digits, and you get 2^9 = 512 possibilities. Punch twice through each digit and you get 3^9 possibilities.
In fact, punch *all* the digits in each position, then file it down.
This will rapidly be entered into the "big book of best practices" for criminals.
And it's also a moot point, since easy access to guns reduces crime, and it's likely that 3-d printed guns will be easily available in the next decade or so.
(And so what if the 3-d printed gun is reliable for only the first couple or shots? That only means that you use your 3-d printed gun that took 2 hours to print and $3 to build a couple of times and then melt it down.)
Defeated by a $59 Dremel tool that completely removes the metal from that area of the frame...
It has been possible for decades to recover serial numbers by chemical etching, which is sensitive to changes in the crystal structure. All you need is a polishing implement and a bottle of etching gel. What is the added value of this EBSD technique? I can see a big disadvantage: you need equipment (a scanning electron microscope) worth a few hundred kEUR and the object with the erased serial number needs to fit into the vacuum chamber of said equipment.
The article mentions that etching techniques don't always work, but they don't state that their technique does work on samples for which the etching method doesn't work...
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Metal grain boundries change if you heat the metal up. This also removes the temper, but rapid heating followed by rapid cooling (Such as by very high speed friction sanding, then submersion in water or oil) will change the crystal grain structure of the metal pretty deeply if done right.
Failing that, sanding off the top layer, then applying heat with a heat gun for a few minutes, then clenching with a cold oil pour will have the same effect, but more reliably.
Seriously, this is how heat treatment of steels works. Steels and other metal alloys go through various phases of crystal growth types under different temperature and pressure environments. They grow when hot (but not molten) which is why the metal weakens. If you heat it up hot enough, this processes changes into annealing where the crystals break down from thermal forces and the metal becomes amorphous. Flash cooling results in a densely packed matrix of tiny metal grains, which strengthens the metal.
Seriously-- all you have to do is alter the crystal growth pattern under where the serial number was. Heat treatment will do exactly that.
Maybe not in Europe, but here in the US reloading casings is a thing. http://www.wikihow.com/Reload-... You do need to buy the right equipment though and these days it probably does get you put on lists on either side of the pond.
Casting bullets isn't the preferred way to make them (since these days people want jacketed bullets hollow points etc) but melting lead and casting them from molds is trivial.
If I have been able to see further than others, it is because I bought a pair of binoculars.
This could actually be useful for gun shops, since we have to meticulously catalog the serial numbers of all firearms that come in and go out. We often get older (like, 150 year older), used firearms where the serials are worn down and difficult to read, even with a jewelers loupe.
Or rather it would be useful for gun shops, if the process isn't as cost-prohibitive as I presume it will be.
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I make my own slugs. It's easy. I don't load casings though. I use air rifles. Don't need gunpowder. Just need lead. As for jacketing, laminate electrodepositing is a thing I've been doing for a decade. Fifty or so layers of copper on a slug and it's pretty damn hard (and plated up to maybe a fiftieth of an inch). It's also a handy way to bring a .20 cast up to match barrel tolerance.
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... how to recover serial numbers obliterated from metal surfaces such as firearms and automobiles ... In the NIST experiments... researchers hammered the letter 'X' into a polished stainless steel plate.
Just had a look at the few automobiles and firearms I own. None are made out of polished stainless steel plate.
Also, while my oldtimers are stamped, I recall seeing a few items of more recent manufacture that had the s/n milled into the substrate.
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