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Ask Slashdot: If You Were Building a New Home, What Cool New Tech Would You Put In?

An anonymous reader writes: I am starting the process of building a new home, and I would like to make the house as wired (or wireless) as possible. At this stage I can incorporate new tech in the design. What features do you have in your house that you just couldn't live without? What features are nice to have? What features do you want? In-home Fiber? Solar? Audio/Visual? Heating/Cooling?

34 of 557 comments (clear)

  1. My lawn by tom229 · · Score: 4, Funny

    Some sort of new device to keep people off my lawn. It couldn't be run IOS, Android, have a unified touch interface, or be in "the cloud" though.

    --
    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
    1. Re:My lawn by OzPeter · · Score: 4, Funny

      Do you mean something like this? How to stop cats pissing on your car, The best cat video ever!

      I'm pretty sure it could be scaled up for a complete lawn.

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    2. Re:My lawn by taiwanjohn · · Score: 5, Informative

      I would look at alternatives to having a "lawn" in the first place. In almost any climate, there are a lot more productive ways to use your land than raising an eternal crop of stuff you just cut and throw away. Put that surface area to work, harvesting solar energy in some way, even if it's nothing more than composting your grass clippings to feed a backyard garden.

      Also, look into "integrative" housing design, which means a more holistic approach based on first principles, rather than tweaking the status-quo with than latest gizmos. For example, if you spend enough on insulation, you might not need a heater in winter, and end up with a lower total capital cost. Or by including a water feature, combined with appropriate shading and ventilation, you could reduce your summer A/C bills by 90 percent, and thus save a bundle on the A/C capacity to install. There are lots of people preaching this sort of thing, but the most prominent voice among them is probably Amory Lovins of the Rocky Mountain Institute.

      As for your lawn look into permaculture. There's a ton of stuff on YouTube about this, and numerous blogs, groups, etc... Basically, you can set up your yard to be a "food forest" that naturally produces food, year round, at no cost and with very little maintenance. Checking out this trend will be very worth your time.

      --
      XML is like violence. If it doesn't solve your problem, you're not using enough of it. --AC
    3. Re:My lawn by Rei · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Be careful with water. Don't get me wrong, I plan to incorporate water features into my house. But humidity has profoundly negative effects on many aspects of housing, from the walls to your furniture to your books and so forth, and a water feature with inadequate circulation is a good recipe for high humidity. In a bad case (as a plant nut I've had this happen), in a cold winter it can make its way through the ceiling and the insulation and freeze out on the roof, and then when it warms up melt back into your house.

      Water can be nice, but don't skimp on the ventilation! :)

      --
      "Who the **** put an emergency exit in the interrogation room?!" -- Police chief, "Jesus Christ Supercop"
    4. Re:My lawn by ilsaloving · · Score: 3, Funny

      What about CompuServe integration?

  2. Future proofing by Iamthecheese · · Score: 5, Insightful

    We just don't know what the future holds. You may want to run fiber or a new wireless standard may make that moot. You may want to swap out your heating unit without much expense, or install a battery. I wouldn't focus on individual new technologies, but give the house an electrical and mechanical infrastructure that makes it easy and cheap to make changes. I would also install extra, easily accessed conduits for new cables or pipes of whatever kind.

    --
    If video games influenced behavior the Pac Man generation would be eating pills and running away from their problems.
    1. Re:Future proofing by Rei · · Score: 3, Funny

      This.

      I'm in the early stages of building an underground steampunk cave home, and "futureproofing" is one of my design principles. I'm going with a very open floor plan, on the concept that it's easier for people to add in walls than to take out walls that were never designed to be removed (and may consequently be providing structural support). I'm not including any drywall; the exterior walls, a pozzolonic concrete, will be pressure-washed to remove the cement from the surface, exposing the aggregate. All piping / conduits will not only be visible, but shown off as part of the style (as is typical for steampunk). If someone wants to change something that they can't just feed into an existing conduit, they won't have to rip out the drywall, change what they want to change, reinstall the drywall, and then repaint. Plus, there can be no "critters" living in the crawlspace when there is no crawlspace.

      Even if I never want to change the house, I want it to significantly outlive me, and whatever future owners are around may want to change things. Plus, it's kind of fun when you keep future owners in mind. For example, I plan to paint a really creepy, gigantic (meters across) blood-red sigil underneath the flooring - an inverse of the ægishjálmur (protection against all evil), pointing inwards as if to trap evil in, with some runic writing along the lines of "All May Enter, None May Leave" (hopefully my Old Icelandic is passable :) ). I hope that whoever owns the house after me and decides to redo the flooring gets a kick out of that one. ;)

      --
      "Who the **** put an emergency exit in the interrogation room?!" -- Police chief, "Jesus Christ Supercop"
    2. Re:Future proofing by Firethorn · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Infrastructure wise, only what would differ from 'standard'. Also, assuming I'm not in a mansion, but still 'decent' sized house.

      Proper telecommunications closet. Should be fairly centrally located, but 'out of the way'. Remember to put venting/ac in here.
      It should have room for at least a small rack holding my patch panel(s), switch, router, and a server or two.
      Conduit to all the rooms, with at least 2 boxes per wall, even if I end up drywalling over most of them.
      Right now I'd pull cat6 cable and probably a bit of coax. I don't use cable other than internet, but who knows?
      The conduit makes repair/replacement 'easy'.
      Electrical plug-in spots at the top end of standard in number
      New idea - have a second run of conduit placed fairly high up. Suggested uses: Wall mount speakers, TVs, and such.
      Basement: Pour a secure vault as part of the foundation, get a good door. Good for storing guns, valuables, and as an emergency shelter.
      Shooting range: Length ultimately depends on budget and location, but a hallway that doubles as a 10 yard plus* firing range. Maybe even have it extend out from under the house, doubles as a secondary exit. Put the bullet trap on the far side, lock the distant end down *tight*. Probably even hook up a light & siren to that door opening. Safety first!
      Construction wise I'd want it to be mostly a 'passive house'. IE built such that it doesn't need extensive amounts of heating or cooling.
      Also, solar panels on new build is cheaper enough that there not real reason at this point to NOT have them. Depending on where the house is being built, a few solar thermal panels for hot water would be a good idea as well. Depending on region, there's even tricks with underground air circulation for cooling and/or heating as well. Geothermal heat pumps. Don't forget heat exchanger air vents - they save energy by conditioning the air while still giving you much better ventilation than a 'tight' modern home without one.

      I like swimming, so an indoor pool with automatic cover.

      Crazy wise - use one of those 3d concrete printers to make the walls, as they can 'print' the conduit basically right into the walls. Also, the concrete they use is surprisingly insulating and still serves as thermal mass to keep temperatures even.

      *IE don't bother if it'd be less than 10 yards/meters, but I'd prefer at least 20. It would start being silly at 100.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    3. Re:Future proofing by njnnja · · Score: 4, Interesting

      All piping / conduits will not only be visible, but shown off as part of the style

      This is genius (assuming people get to like the style). It is such a pain to try to work on anything around the house when you have to guess where the conduits go, or fiddle with a plumbing trap through a one foot opening that can't even fit a slip wrench. Walls covered with pulverized rocks made a lot of sense when they were just there for privacy but now that the lifeblood of a house is running through them architects should figure out how to make the whole system more accessible.

      So to OP, even if you don't go this far, make sure that things can be worked on! Pipes leak and room configurations change and if you designed the house without flexibility for infrastructure then one day when you (or a professional) have to deal with an issue it will suck.

      As a side note, IANAL but whenever you sell you may need to disclose the fact that you are storing evil spirits in the floorboards.

    4. Re:Future proofing by cdrudge · · Score: 4, Funny

      This is genius (assuming people get to like the style). It is such a pain to try to work on anything around the house when you have to guess where the conduits go, or fiddle with a plumbing trap through a one foot opening that can't even fit a slip wrench. Walls covered with pulverized rocks made a lot of sense when they were just there for privacy but now that the lifeblood of a house is running through them architects should figure out how to make the whole system more accessible.

      Thanks for allowing me to remember how I felt before I got married and had my design decisions told to me.

    5. Re:Future proofing by Goldenhawk · · Score: 4, Insightful

      I built my current house in 1998. Having built a house in 1994 and in just a few years been geek-frustrated with it, I did some things right the second time, and they've stood the test of time, mostly.

      One, I set the entire house up as a star-configured system. No daisy-chained networks or wires. There's a central patch panel to which EVERYTHING runs. This makes debugging and tweaking far, far easier. I would absolutely do this again.

      Two, I ran far more of everything than I needed at the time. That hasn't eliminated issues, but it decreased them significantly. Two Cat 5 cables, two three-conductor speaker cables, and two RG-6QS cables to every room, period. I'd do this again, but with the latest (and anticipated coming) technology.

      Three, I built in an attic-to-crawlspace cable pipe. It turned out barely big enough for the four RG-6QS cables for two satellite dishes. Now with DirecTV's new combined LNBs, I'm back down to one cable and have plenty of spare room. Next time I'd put in a couple of 2" pipes instead of one 1" pipe; it would be no significant cost delta but add significant margin.

      Thinking ahead, even though I have been okay for 17 years, I am still somewhat limited on expansion. I have since built on two extra rooms, and it's nearly impossible to add them to the star-configured patch panel. I am not sure I would try to do comprehensive room-to-room cable piping, because it takes a TON of piping and a very large network room to pull it off properly. Space is money when you're building a house.

      What did I do WRONG?

      For one, not enough photos of infrastructure before putting up the insulation and drywall. I took a ton of photos, but nearly every time I've looked at them for answering a question, I found I had somehow missed the precise shot I needed.

      For another, too many places where messy infrastructure limited my options. Like cables and piping exactly where I found I wanted to add recessed lighting. I would be a lot more picky about directing the plumber and electrician where to run their stuff.

      Also, I would pay more attention during design to the HVAC setup. It takes up a lot of volume, and tends to interfere with flexibility later. So I would do a better job of pre-thinking where it would go, and leave more built-in space for it.

      Finally, I didn't give enough thought to house-to-street connectivity. It changes faster than my in-house systems. Every few years I have needed to have my yard dug up by the cable or telephone or electric or plumbing company. I wish there were a fairly large pipe running underneath my 150 foot driveway, through which all the necessary services could be routed and rearranged as necessary. Sort of a personal manhole thing.

      --
      --Brandon / Split Infinity Music

  3. Geothermal Heat Pump by Elder+Entropist · · Score: 5, Insightful

    They aren't very cost effective for existing homes, but for new construction they can save you tons on money on heating and cooling, giving you up to a 5x multiplier for the energy you put in. All new construction should have them.

    1. Re:Geothermal Heat Pump by willworkforbeer · · Score: 4, Funny

      I wish these were easy to retrofit, they are a fantastic option. If I ever remodel my mom's basem... my studio apartment, I would like this option.

      --
      Pretending this is my office full of bitter coworkers..
  4. Just GBE everywhere! by aglider · · Score: 5, Insightful

    WiFi is evil. Ethernet is good. GBE is far better.

    --
    Sent as ripples into the electromagnetic field. No single photon has been harmed in the process.
    1. Re:Just GBE everywhere! by aglider · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Wherever you have GBE you can add WiFi or other pesky wireless tech.
      You cannot do the other way around, though.

      --
      Sent as ripples into the electromagnetic field. No single photon has been harmed in the process.
    2. Re:Just GBE everywhere! by decsnake · · Score: 5, Insightful

      abso-fing-lutely. Cat 6 everywhere. Drop at least one in every room, and put one in every wall in the room you plan to use as you main media room.

      The 2.4GHz band is totally congested and 5GHz doesn't go thru any kind of decent wall worth a shit. Leave wireless for mobile devices and wire everything that doesn't move. The idea that an 80" TV should be wireless is ridiculous.

  5. Conduit by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Insightful

    So you can run other stuff later.

    1. Re:Conduit by grimmjeeper · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Absolutely this. Run all your phone/network/TV cable wires in conduit and have a few extra runs. If you ever want to pull anything out and replace it, having conduit in place will make it much easier.

  6. Energy Conservation by ClayDowling · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Fiberglass windows, geothermal heat, a good in home battery like the new Tesla product, wind and solar power generation, and wicked good insulation. Ideally something like the blow cellulose or cotton fiber, but even just a thicker layer of fiberglass, so that my heating and cooling needs are few. LED lighting throughout. Tankless water heaters. Natural gas for heating, cooking, water heater and dryer.

    Drought tolerant landscaping. Because even though I live in a water rich region, I hate having to pay to water my lawn (city water, no options) just for the priviledge of cutting it later. Nuts to that deal.

  7. A holographic TV and a quantum teleporter by descubes · · Score: 4, Funny

    Here is my quick list:

    - 80' holographic TV with 360 channels 4D surround sound
    - Two parking spots for the hovercars
    - A quantum teleporter (ask for the free subscription to Andromeda Quantum Tours Weekly)
    - A six terawatt home battery and thorium / fusion nuclear reactor (don't go for the cheap Tesla stuff, nuclear is what you need)
    - A robosquid and a set of batteries
    - Six packs of pills for instant beer
    - An iPhone9 with the Apple Watch, Apple Pay, Apple ID, Apple Travel, iThink, assortment of overpriced cases, cables and chargers
    - At least one DNA decoder / recoder per room
    - A 65536-qbit game console for the kid

    --
    -- Did you try Tao3D? http://tao3d.sourceforge.net
  8. Heating and Cooling by Thelasko · · Score: 5, Informative

    I would try to get my heating and cooling costs as low as possible. Something similar to the Passivhaus standard. I might not be strict to the standard if the cost benefit becomes too extreme. I would probably also use some sort of geothermal system as well.

    When the power goes out, it would be nice to have some sort of battery backup and/or renewable source of electricity on hand. I also like the EPA certified wood stoves that are now available, like those made by Quadra-fire. They're much more efficient than old fashioned stoves, and don't require electricity. However, their output is likely too high for a house that meets the Passivhaus standard.

    What can I say, I work in the energy field. Saving energy is fun to me.

    --
    One of our competitors trademarked the term "hypothesis". From now on, we will call them "boneheaded ideas".
  9. Wire Runs by Anubis350 · · Score: 4, Informative

    Wire runs. You can change cabling later or run new cabling if the runs are in place

    --
    "goodbye and hello, as always" ~Prince Corwin, from Zelazny's Amber series
  10. You insensitive clod by Required+Snark · · Score: 3, Funny

    How does this question relate to the legions of Slashdot readers who are living in their parents basement? Are you deliberately trying to demean them and their lifestyle? Have you no shame?

    --
    Why is Snark Required?
  11. Business-grade features by TWX · · Score: 4, Informative

    If the house has an open attic or basement I'd do all 3/4" EMT conduit stubs for all services, be they power, data, whatever, so that there's no in-wall problems later. I'd attempt to anticipate the locations of televisions, speakers, computers, wireless access points, and anything else that might use a cable and plumb the necessary number and size of conduit for the necessary power and data requirements.

    I'd install a central vacuum system. It could be used for cleaning and for a tech bench to clean up dust when working on things, and with a proper filter might make for a good soldering station to get the fumes away. I would also run 1/2" or 3/4" soft copper in a giant loop above each room, probably "K" or maybe "L" rated, that could be hooked to an air compressor for things like cleaning, airbrush panting, etc.

    I'd define an MDF and run several service-entrance conduits from the expected service-hookup locations on the outside of the house, so that whatever subscribed, hard-line services come, there won't be a need to drill more. Probably 1" conduit.

    I'd use all 20A circuits for all electrical outlets. Circuits would not cross rooms. Some rooms would get more than one if they have more than ten outlets.

    I would completely skip on consumer-grade faucets. Chicago Faucets or T&S Brass everywhere.

    Behind the main panel I would define a room that could be a battery/inverter room. It would be climate controlled.

    I would plan on running Ethernet everywhere. I would install conduit to later let me place cameras on the outside of the structure if I was at-all concerned that they'd be needed.

    I would look into those windows that are effective large single-pixel LCDs, so that one can turn-off the view by applying power to the window.

    --
    Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
  12. Thoughts by Yaztromo · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Some thoughts:

    Wired Networking: Wireless can never touch the bandwidth, latency, or collision handling of wired networking. Provide wired access for all stationary devices, and use wireless only for those devices that are mobile or wireless-only by design (laptops, tablets, phones, WiFi lightbulbs, etc.). As much as possible, avoid wireless for things like smart TVs, set-top boxes, game consoles, etc. The more devices you have on wireless, they less bandwidth is going to be available to any one device. Unless you're going to invest in some pretty expensive networking gear, I'd stick with Cat 5e or Cat 6 cabling for now (Cat 7 is budget isn't an issue), however, ensure you use some form of wiring duct behind the walls: should the day come when you can reasonably wire everything with fibre, it will be a whole lot easier to pull it through wiring duct than it is to remove all your walls.

    Geothermal Heating/Cooling: Again, if you're not constrained by budget, invest in a Geothermal system for your heating and cooling. This often needs to be done rather early in the house design/build phase (due to the need to dig deep holes into the ground), but once in place you'll have nearly free heat in the winter and cooling in the summer (usually you just need to pay for enough electricity to run a heat pump and a fan, which is negligible). I'm fortunate enough to live in a home with community geothermal, and the system has been flawless for us (albeit not as cheap as a DIY system, as the community treats the turmoil energy as a utility. Still cheaper than the alternatives, however).

    Solar: Even if you don't plan on installing a solar system (ha!) right away, I suppose you could at least get the basic wiring done, such that when it is time to install such a system you already have a suitable location for the banks of batteries (if you're building from scratch, this could be part of a custom utility room designed for this purpose), plus the necessary wiring between that location and your rooftop panels. That way you're future-proofed, and the rest would pretty much be plug-and-play.

    Yaz

  13. KISS by Moof123 · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Beware of making your house too gadgety. In 10-15 years most of it will be outmoded and junk and you will spend a lot of time and hassle keeping it going (and if that is your schtick, why are you asking for ideas?!). Don't become a slave to your house if you can avoid it.

    Nice to haves:
    1) Extra outlets and breakers. Having fewer rooms per breaker is nice to avoid finding out that a hairdryer plus your gaming PC will pop the breaker even though one is upstairs and the other is downstairs.

    2) Speakers and speaker wire in your living room is really nice, and hard to add later.

    3) Pull Ethernet cable where you can do so. Most stuff will be on wireless, but it is nice to be able to put a wireless router where needed once you find out the hard way where the dead zones are.

    4) Good insulation. A cheap house to heat/cool is golden. Consider a heat exchanger to keep fresh air in your house, which is a bigger issue once you make a well sealed up house.

    5) Storage, storage, storage. No modern house seems to have enough good storage in it.

    6) Good sound deadening in the interior walls, few houses have this, and it sucks to try and add after the fact. Solid core interior doors help too.

    7) Glue and screw your base flooring in you minimize how many squeeks show up over time, which can slowly drive you insane.

    8) Low maintenance yard. Mowing every week sucks. Paying for yard guys sucks. Allergies suck. Unless you want to be a gardener, put in slow growing low maintenance plants that don't trigger your allergies.

  14. A few tips... by MMC+Monster · · Score: 5, Informative

    I built a custom home a few years ago.

    A few tips:
      - Cat6 everywhere. At least 4 near every TV/Receiver
      - In wall/In ceiling speakers in all rooms These should be tied into setups for receivers in most rooms. For the dining room (if you have one), kitchen, patio, and other areas you wouldn't want a receiver, have them go to the basement. When you buy receivers, make sure they have a cat5 input so that you can control them remotely.
      - Wire for central alarm system for fire alarms, burglar.
      - Wire the front door for a video camera. You don't need to install it, but having the wiring done is a nice thing to have just in case.
      - Run empty pipes to each room from the basement or attic so you can pull wire easier in the future.
      - Have your basement ceiling be 1 foot higher than your first floor ceiling. It costs little to do in the planning stage, but makes the basement look humongous when you finish it.
      - Just before they drywall everything, take pictures of every wall. This is your x-ray vision for the future.
      - 240V/30A line to the garage. Who knows, you may get an electric car in the future.
      - Have one closet on each floor which has a power outlet and cat6 cable.
      - Central vacuum. Once you have it, you will never go back.

    --
    Help! I'm a slashdot refugee.
  15. Well... by Rei · · Score: 3, Funny

    If you want to go full-on nerdy, a pneumatic tube system can't go awry... ;) Bonus points if it connects to your mailbox. Extra bonus points if there's an outlet on your roof that you can fire things from.

    --
    "Who the **** put an emergency exit in the interrogation room?!" -- Police chief, "Jesus Christ Supercop"
  16. I've maintained a list :) by JBMcB · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Cat 6, Cat 3 and Coax to every room. Cat 6 + power to a few closets for WiFi APs.
    Structured wiring to a central ethernet/phone/TV distribution hub with media server, UPS, etc...
    - The above can cost thousands of dollars if done professionally. My brother-in-law did it himself (before his house was drywalled) for a few hundred dollars.

    Solotubes in the bathrooms (basically mini-skylights that collect enough light at night to act as a nightlight)

    Hookup for solar - the tech isn't *quite* there yet.
    Hookup for garage EV charger - see above.
    Multiple passthroughs for wires going outside - for future expansion (ham radio antennas, sprinkler systems, whatever)

    If you're really into gardening, a hookup for an outdoor sink (with warm water) is *really* nice.

    A properly wired OTA TV/FM antenna - for cord cutting.

    Depending on the size of the house - multiple thermostats.
    IP thermostat with integrated humidistat to control the humidifier. I like the Nest.

    An attic fan with a nice controller - won't live without one of these now - we can go for most of spring without A/C by just using the fan.

    Metal roof - recommended by a roofer friend who has them on his house - if properly installed they will last practically forever.

    If you don't want a security system, at least run some LV 2-wire to each window and door so you can add one later if you change your mind later.
    Also run wiring for connected, powered fire alarms. At the very least - one in each bedroom, one in the kitchen, one in every stairwell and one in the furnace room.

    Ideas from a local builder:
    2x6 framing - allows for more insulation and is more durable.
    16" poured reinforced concrete foundation - recommended by structural engineers as ideal for residential construction.
    Remember this - building to code is like getting a C on a report card - you're doing the bare minimum to make sure the house won't fall apart, flood or catch fire.

    --
    My Other Computer Is A Data General Nova III.
  17. Toilets NOT in the bathroom by gurps_npc · · Score: 5, Interesting
    Toilets belong in an entirely separate room, protected by a door. Two doors would be better - one going to the hallway, another to the shower/bath/sink.

    Because whatever idiot came up with the idea of having your toothbrush, comb, shaving gear exposed to the same air as your toilet had never heard of germs or fluid dynamics.

    --
    excitingthingstodo.blogspot.com
    1. Re:Toilets NOT in the bathroom by cps42 · · Score: 4, Informative

      You missed the Mythbusters episode where they proved the toothbrush got just as much fecal coliform on it when stored in the Kitchen as did the one in the bathroom, didn't you?

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M...

  18. Build a green house OVER my house by Karmashock · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Literally just put the entire house inside a green house. Have the green house extend as far away from the house in all sides as I can afford.

    Then manage the internal temp and humidity of the green house to create a year round micro climate for my house.

    First, you have to make use of as much geo thermal energy as possible. The ground stays stable at the same temperature all year round. If you're in an area that gets cold in the winter, then what you want to do is cycle all the air in the green house through the ground. The ground stays at about 55 degrees which is well above freezing. Just using some shafts and some fans, you should be able to keep the green house at 55 degrees.

    You can push it higher by storing heat collected during the day. Even in the dead of winter, a green house will get warm in the middle of the day. Often so hot that you need to vent heat in the middle of a winter day. Instead of venting, store the heat in the ground. Just pump air from the top of the green house through pipes about six feet under the ground. You'll heat up the earth under the green house which will release that heat all night. You also don't have to lose humidity if you're in a dry area if you're cycling the air that way. If you vent, then you'll equalize the humidity inside with outside. If you don't need to vent then you can keep it trapped.

    After that you can play with aquaponics... get yourself a fish pond and cycle the water through a hydroponic grow bed.

    Inside the house, I really liked that idea about switching to low voltage DC. It makes going off grid more affordable because you're not wasting so much power converting things to and from AC all the time. You just go DC to the batteries, then DC from the batteries into the home grid, and then from the home grid right into the appliances etc which will use DC natively. All you'll have to do is watch voltage and amperage.

    Beyond that, I'd smart house the whole house with arduinos.

    So... all the boring stuff like lights, power management, water management, doors, security, etc. But go farther with a sprinkler system, etc.

    Then for the entertainment system, I'd go with a black screen projector for my home theater. These are neat because they work in broad daylight. No wash out of the picture despite having a huge screen or the lights on.

    I'd keep the house to one story and might even sink it into the ground a bit. Keep in mind that most windows don't touch the ground in the first place. So why have the window be that far above the ground on the outside? This is relevant to the green house concept because you want the house to be in the green house but to block as little light as possible.

    The roof of the house could be flat and planted or have a deck on it or something. Remember, the roof doesn't get rained on. The rain falls on the roof of the green house. It never touches the actual house.

    The garage for the car should either be a separate structure or be under the house. There's no reason for a car's garage to be on the first floor. That space is too precious. Have a ramp go down into the basement and have the car kept there.

    An interesting idea is to CNC mill the bricks or stones that the house is made out of. A CNC machine capable of doing this isn't that expensive and you wouldn't need to mill literally every stone. Just enough to get the effect you were going for.

    A few ideas that are interesting to me are perfectly fit stones. If you look at neolithic buildings they don't use mortar. They use perfectly fit stones that fit together like a jigsaw. Gravity holds the whole thing together. You can and probably should use mortar and steel reinforcement. BUT if the stones fit together like that, you don't have to do that. They click together like legos.

    Another thing you could do with that is have the entire structure carved... or milled. Imagine some sort of pictogram or pattern in the stone.

    Lighting in the green house would be a big deal. You'd want the green house to be able to

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  19. Comment removed by account_deleted · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Comment removed based on user account deletion

  20. Re:Just GBE everywhere! WITH PATCH PANEL by Lorens · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Terminate half the wires to one jack and half to the other.

    You shouldn't even need to do that. I set up a simple patch panel of female ethernet connectors in my wiring closet, each connected to the female ethernet connectors all over the house. My POTS line comes into that wiring closet (well, my DSL line does, and my box has an RJ11 POTS connector). Plug the phone's RJ11 into the RJ45 where you want the telephone (yes, male RJ11 plugs into female RJ45 by design), find a male-male RJ11 to connect the corresponding patch panel RJ45 to the RJ11 POTS line, and bingo you can have your POTS telephone wherever you thought to place an ethernet outlet.

    You probably want to avoid messing up connections between ethernet and POTS though. I've done it without ill effects, but no one phoned me during the time it was misplugged.

    Now that I've wasted the mod point I awarded here before posting, some other tips, not all cool new tech:

    - some place with ethernet that you can have a noisy server. Servers aren't that noisy any more, but I've had to junk one supposedly silent server because the power unit emitted a very annoying high-pitched whine, and cheap hard disks still make noise. This could be the wiring closet, but not necessarily.

    - there's a (maybe European) quality of cable called "grade 3" that is better than cat6 (cat6e?) in that you can wire a satellite (coax) signal directly to it.

    - if you use contractors, watch them. Every day. Get them used to the idea that they can ask you things. I put double RJ45 outlets in a lot of places, but the only place I really wanted two was where I was putting the television. Guess where the cabling guy decided on his own to only put a single because the patch panel had one hole less than needed?

    - if you use contractors, watch them even more than that. I have a friend who used to change out of business work clothes into worker's coveralls in order to walk around his future house every evening. One evening he sees something bad (ISTR isolation) and calls it to the attention of the guy working nearby. The reply was "Oh yeah I know I messed up but it's too much work to correct, it'll be covered by drywall, the owner will never know".

    - why not run cable to the fridge? To somewhere you might want a (PoE) surveillance camera? Wifi repeater?

    - battery-powered doorbells suck.

    - easily accessible storage space for things like vacuum cleaner, mop, dry food, clothes

    - BTW, central vacuum cleaning, but storage is good anyway.

      - I put washing and drying machines on the bedroom floor instead of basement or kitchen. No more carrying dirty clothing up and down stairs, but YMMV if your sleep patterns might clash with the noise. BTW, drying machines are better and cheaper if they have a hole to the outside.

    - depending on your local weather, DFV (double-flow ventilation) with heat exchange so you don't lose heat, and cheaper electricity and heating mentioned by others

    - Kitchen: granite desktop. Draw-out trash can just underneath so you can just sweep peelings from the working area directly into the trash can. Dishwasher a foot or two above the usual level so you don't have to bend (you put your hand in the dishwasher a lot more often than in the oven, and kids can fall on the upwards-pointing knives in a dishwasher just like they can burn their hands on an oven). Power plugs for kitchen appliances of course, maybe ethernet?

    - going to have animals? Where are you putting their food, will you shut up the dog during the night and if so where, do you need a cat door, etc.

    Lots more of course, I have often heard that that the house you get perfect is the third one you build!