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Hands-On With the Voltera V-One PCB Printer (hackaday.com)

szczys writes: Eric Evenchick was one of the first backers of the Voltera V-One PCB Printer and just received the 6th device shipped so far. He ran it through its paces and published a review that gives it a positive rating. The hardware uses conductive ink to print traces on FR4 substrate. The board is then flipped upside down and the traces baked on the machine to make them robust. Next the printer dispenses solder paste and the same heating method is used to reflow after components are placed by hand.

37 comments

  1. Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by mpoulton · · Score: 5, Informative

    This is a pretty cool concept and a good start, but like consumer 3D printers from five years ago, it is not really practical or cost effective. The biggest problem this thing has is the $2199 price tag. Holy crap! Anybody can already make better quality circuit boards using a cheap laser printer, a blacklight, and some basic supplies. You could even build a DLP projector-based photolithography setup with great resolution for half that price, and people have done so. It just doesn't cost anywhere near $2199 to make good circuit boards.

    That brings us to the next big problem: this thing doesn't make good circuit boards. Conductive ink is not a real substitute for solid copper traces. The traditional etched-foil method ensures uniform and predictable trace properties, and the solid copper has great current carrying capacity and low resistance. That matters a lot in many applications. Good luck handling tens of amps (or even more) in a switching power supply using conductive ink for traces.

    But then there are the holes. Or lack of holes. This thing doesn't drill holes, and it's intended to create boards with no holes at all. It makes "double layer" boards by overlapping insulated conductive traces applied on the same face of the substrate. That's clever and a very cool idea, but it's no substitute for drilled holes and two planes separated by the substrate itself. I would have very little confidence in wire attachments made to this type of board, and it definitely is not suitable for applications with any serious voltage differential between layers, or where impedance control or stray capacitance matters. In other words, it's limited to a small and low-performance set of applications. No multi-megahertz digital signals. No RF circuits. No high voltage (or even line-powered) stuff. No high current handling. For $2199, I'll wait a decade and see where this tech goes.

    --
    I am a geek attorney, but not your geek attorney unless you've already retained me. This is not legal advice.
    1. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by __aaclcg7560 · · Score: 2

      Or use a $600 CNC router to mill and drill a PCB.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=na9-USi_hZQ

    2. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The autorouter appears stoned. Also, that's a through hole design. Can it cut a little less deeply through the substrate, or perhaps not at all?

    3. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Cthefuture · · Score: 4, Informative

      I use a laser printer, print on glossy magazine paper, put the paper toner-side-down on the PCB, run it through a high temp laminator, peal off the paper in soapy water, then etch. Takes almost no time and I can get very near professional results. I can do extremely tight small traces no problem.

      I have never tried a double-sided board but I bet I could do it by simply printing the circuit such that the paper could be folded over the PCB then the laminator would stick both sides. Probably be difficult to do but not impossible.

      --
      The ratio of people to cake is too big
    4. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Same here it's the easiest and cheapest way by far

      http://www.instructables.com/i...

      so simple children can do it.

    5. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by U2xhc2hkb3QgU3Vja3M · · Score: 1

      Can it cut a little less deeply through the substrate, or perhaps not at all?

      Simply set the Z-axis to +5mm and you'll be sure to never hit the substrate.

    6. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by WalrusSlayer · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Full Disclosure: I'm a backer, though not early enough to get an early-bird unit.

      I look forward to trying this tech when I finally get mine. I have lots of reservations, but am still happy with my decision. I'm glad they seem to have found a way to paste/reflow boards that are inked. During the Kickstarter is was going to either be able to lay down ink, or paste/reflow. I.e., you could only paste/reflow a traditionally fabbed copper board, not a prototyped ink board that was fabbed by the Voltera. That was a pretty serious limitation, making the unit somewhat bipolar: you could quickly prototype boards in ink but then had to deal with soldering yourself. Once you were more confident with the design to send out for traditional copper boards, it became a nice alternative to stencils and ovens

      I can't speak to the resistance issue, but in my mind the other huge limiter is the feature resolution limit. Sure, there's a bunch of things you can prototype within the limits of the Voltera, but you don't have to move much beyond Arduino-class designs to bump against the ceiling. Things like the Intel Edison connector is way out of reach for this thing, and even a DIMM connector (think Raspberry Pi Compute Module) is too dense. They will have some breakout boards for common footprints that are too tight, but that's a half-measure in my book and only adds to the number of things that have to get redesigned on the path from a Voltera prototype to a real board.

      In the meantime I went ahead and bought an OtherMill, which can handle much smaller feature sizes, and uses traditional copper-clad boards. You have to connect your own vias, but it will at least drill them for you. And getting the alignment between both sides of the board can be tricky. But I've already done some interesting prototypes with that board, including stencils, and now have a toaster-oven-based reflow box. Had I known about the OtherMill I may not have sprung for the Voltera. Hopefully they complement each other---even if the Voltera becomes mostly a solder dispenser that's a win over what I'm dealing with now.

    7. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      As a warning, this can take a lot of trial and error depending on luck. It seems some laser printers are much better at this than others, and work with a variety of papers. Others won't work on any paper, and some are very picky about what paper you use. I had to try five different printers before finding one that work well, while others were very bad and had to be traced over several times with a resist pen for thick traces and were hopeless for thin traces. By that point though I had bought a cheap CNC router which saved the effort of drilling and could do other things like make a case from plastic.

    8. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Frosty+Piss · · Score: 2

      I'm sorry, the copper is 5mm thick???

      --
      If you want news from today, you have to come back tomorrow.
    9. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by serviscope_minor · · Score: 1

      If I follow what you're saying, you're transferring the toner from the paper to the copper directly and using the toner as an etchant mask?

      Nice way of skipping the photographic style steps.

      Do you have any extra details? e.g. what temperature does your laminator run at (or what model do you use)? and does it depend strongly on the paper type?

      --
      SJW n. One who posts facts.
    10. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by serviscope_minor · · Score: 1

      it became a nice alternative to stencils and ovens

      I'm slightly curious about that. If you're already sending your board out to get fabbed, you can get a stencil done at the same time. They cost about a tenner for as many stencils as you can fit on an A4 sheet of transparent film. If you don't need very fine pitch (I did 0.5mm pitch LGA-16 packages no problem), then you can do one at home on a vinyl cutter.

      It did take me a while to get the hang of using a stencil though I must say.

      I also bought a T962 (not the better A model) reflow oven which has so far given perfect results every time. If you do reflow, I'd recommend it over a toaster oven. It's a nice fire-and-forget machine and not excessively expensive either. It has a variety of profiles and will happily do unleaded too.

      This looks to be an interesting machine though. What I think matters, which there didn't seem to be any info about is the resistivity of the traces, and how good they are compared to copper. For boards which don't have any particularly critical features (small sizes, high currents) it seems like a nice no fuss kind of machine. Much less faffy than messing with milling machines or etchant fluid.

      Bit expensive and low quality boards for me for now. I expect that will improve in time however.

      --
      SJW n. One who posts facts.
    11. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Cthefuture · · Score: 1

      Yes, the laminator melts the toner and makes it stick to the board. For a while I would just iron it on but that can be very tricky to do (hand pressure, etc).

      I use a LaserJet 1200 which prints very nice thick toner traces.

      My laminator is just a cheap one from walmart that I modified to run at a higher temperature. Even at the higher temperature I have to run the board through it 5 or 6 times (at different angles) to make sure all the toner gets stuck to the board. Pre-heating the board would probably make it require less passes but it works well enough without that. Higher-end laminators work better but of course cost a lot.

      For printing I use glossy magazine paper (just pages torn out of old magazines) because it's very thin and falls apart/dissolves easily in soapy water leaving just the toner on the board. Some printers will jam when printing on this stuff but the LJ1200 works no problem.

      --
      The ratio of people to cake is too big
    12. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      So, the OtherMill made it to Market... I've been out of touch.

      Many years back, I was working with a guy who was a Master at PCB fabrication. Most of his boards were unique, and some even remained on Earth.
      He didn't Etch, he CNC Milled. He worked with double-sided G10 boards, and stacked them up to five deep. He Milled holes in the intermediate boards for the buried parts.
      One assembly was interesting- it had four fittings on the side. Two were for cooling, and two were for, get this, "Magic Gas". It was a kind of a Particle Detector, an evolution of the old Wire Chambers. It was 4 x 8 x ~5/16 inches, and there were six layers of grids, Gold plated Tungsten, that I wound for him, in a Window at the top. The Window was sealed with 0.1 Mil Aluminized Mylar; the inner surface was charged with a few Volts to suck off stray Electrons. A Gallium/Indium/Tin Eutectic was used for Solder; all internal components were mechanically staked as well.

      I have no idea where it went, or if the damn thing actually worked.

    13. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by sjames · · Score: 1

      He didn't say it would still mill the board, just that at +5mm it won't cut into the substrate :-)

    14. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by timg11 · · Score: 1

      In addition to the initial purchase price, there is also the cost of the consumables. I looked around the Voltera site, but did not find any pricing for the conductive ink or insulating ink. It does say the printer ships with "samples" of both. In the printer industry shipping with "sample" ink means the ink is so expensive, they can't/won't include are normal supply in the initial purchase price of the printer. I'd like to know what is the consumable cost for "hello world" board?

    15. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by HotNeedleOfInquiry · · Score: 1

      This would have been a game-changer 20 years ago. Today, with proto boards cheap and with a quick turnaround, I see no advantage other than the geek factor.

      --
      "Eve of Destruction", it's not just for old hippies anymore...
    16. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by WalrusSlayer · · Score: 1

      it became a nice alternative to stencils and ovens

      I'm slightly curious about that. If you're already sending your board out to get fabbed, you can get a stencil done at the same time. They cost about a tenner for as many stencils as you can fit on an A4 sheet of transparent film. If you don't need very fine pitch (I did 0.5mm pitch LGA-16 packages no problem), then you can do one at home on a vinyl cutter.

      It did take me a while to get the hang of using a stencil though I must say.

      Agreed that these days if you have some way to reflow, then getting a stencil at the same time as the board is painless. I'm still getting the hang of applying the paste, so having the machine do it seems a good alternative as it will likely do a more precise job of it. But I won't know until I get a unit of my own.

      As I said before, in light of the OtherMill and DIY reflow oven, it's no longer clear what niche the Voltera will fill in my workshop. At the very least it will be cool to have been part of early development of this type of prototyping, which seems like it has the potential to get a lot better with more R&D. Even if I end up selling it or donating to a worthy cause like a school or Maker Space, I don't think I'll have any regrets.

    17. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by serviscope_minor · · Score: 1

      Huh! Sounds like an interesting technique.

      Got any pictures of the final boards?

      --
      SJW n. One who posts facts.
    18. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by serviscope_minor · · Score: 1

      Agreed that these days if you have some way to reflow, then getting a stencil at the same time as the board is painless. I'm still getting the hang of applying the paste, so having the machine do it seems a good alternative as it will likely do a more precise job of it. But I won't know until I get a unit of my own.

      It took me a while to get the hang of applying paste. Probably took around 10 goes on the first board with much cleaning in between tries. I can now do it first time.

      I've heard good things about the stencil8, but I don't have one. I use the same tooling holes, but make a mount my self. It's just some holes into a thick chunk of MDF, using the circuit board tooling holes as a guide. My board house (hackvana) always supplies the board with 2.5mm diameter tooling pins.

      I then glue down chunks of old PCB around where the PCB goes with that 3M repositionable glue. That means there's a large area around the PCB which is the same thickness. That stops the stencil from flexing when you apply pressure with the applicator off the edge of the PCB.

      Finally apply the paste. You need a STIFF applicator (not a credit card). I use a chunk of 3mm or 4mm thick clear acrylic (I got it from an offcut bin at my local hackspace), and you need to spread the paste pretty firmly, firm enough to squash it into the holes and to clean the tops off. Generally I start near 90 degrees, then lower the angle as I go, so it keeps pushing the blob of solder paste down. Also, be generous with the initial blob of solder paste.

      Finally, never ever ever use old paste. It reflows like crap and doesn't spread well either. I buy batches of 10 50g tubs off ebay for 2 quid per tub. There used to be loads of types, but "Mechanic" brand has taken over it seems and it works well.

      As I said before, in light of the OtherMill and DIY reflow oven, it's no longer clear what niche the Voltera will fill in my workshop.

      Well, if nothing else, if you're going same-day with the mill, you've got a way of applying paste without waiting for a stencil.

      Oh and by the way, if you don't have a vacuum pickup tool with a foot switch control, you're missing out big time (assuming you're doing fine pitch stuff). You can get a basic pick up tool off ebay for about 20 bucks (the Vac/Cosmo 12000 dual type), but you'll need to bodge in a foot switch and electric valve yourself. You can probably get it all in for about 25 bucks.

      --
      SJW n. One who posts facts.
    19. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Sir+Holo · · Score: 1

      The $600 CNC mill/router is quite cool. Perhaps overkill for the circuit prototype, but that's OK.

      (SIDE NOTE: This kind of 'home CNC' is a brilliant thing. Ever needed to replace a 'little plastic part' of your car, but that is only sold as part of a '$300 assembly?' Model it by whatever means, and then mill it from aluminum. The CNC would pay for itself in a year!)

      RESPONDING TO THE VIDEO: Note that it began with a standard, copper-clad PCB piece, made for such projects, which have available for decades. This was probably just one of many demos for this product.

      OTHER APPROACHES: A custom PCB can be achieved far more cheaply. I recall, in the 1980's, starting with one of these pre-clad PCBs. Then, laying down resist-tape, painting-in any gaps, and finally chemically etching the copper away to yield a one-off PCB.

      In the 21st Century, it's even easier, even by rudimentary techniques. As someone else noted — use only a laser-jet, a UV or strong light source, and a spun-on resist layer (PMMA). Use the printout to do a 'contact exposure', the same as making a photographic 'contact print'. Dip in methanol to remove unexposed resist, and last dip into a copper etchant for a couple of minutes. Drill holes after.

      Last, a Google search will undoubtedly find many vendors willing to do the above, and just mail the finished product to you. These guys are garage startups –enabling makers – but the garage is where it always starts

    20. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Sir+Holo · · Score: 1

      I use a laser printer, print on glossy magazine paper, put the paper toner-side-down on the PCB, run it through a high temp laminator, peal off the paper in soapy water, then etch.

      Brilliant! Much easier than using a PMMA resist, as I suggested.

      For those who don't know, laser printers use toner that's a mix of pigment and a wax/plastic binder. The last step your laser printer performs is to roll the paper over a "fuser", which melts the binder, securing the toner to the paper.

      That is, the brilliant step in the quoted post is to use this fact to use the laserjet printout as the resist before etching the copper. Poster uses a 'high-temp laminator', but in a pinch, a household iron might do.

    21. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Sir+Holo · · Score: 1

      For printing I use glossy magazine paper (just pages torn out of old magazines) because it's very thin and falls apart/dissolves easily in soapy water leaving just the toner on the board.

      Yes! Glossy magazine paper is glossy for a reason. It has a thin layer of clay and a binder on its surface. That provides the gloss, smooth surface, and prevents image-bleed when in-press.

      For you, the maker, this little layer is one reason the soapy-water transfer is so easy. Magazine paper's surface-coating is a water-soluble/removable layer. No worries about toner infiltrating the paper's fibers —there is that convenient layer in-between preventing it.

      HINT: The soap in the last step is key, as it helps to disperse and deflocculate the clay, making it simple to wash away with water.

    22. Re:Awful lot of money for some big flaws... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You need to use a printer/copier that has a dual component system, like ones with a Minolta printer engine. HP laser printers have a Canon engine, which is a mono-component system where the magnetic particles are part of the toner that goes onto the page... this is what causes some problems with the toner transfer system.
              I would look at the various printer engines and choose the one that is dual component and has the smallest toner particle size. There was also a Canon model waaayyy
      back in the olden' days that has a cold pressure system, instead of heated rollers there were two very large and heavy steel rollers that the paper was feed through, that would be the ideal machine to have if doing a high volume of toner transfer PCB's.

      **** I was a photocopier tech for about ten years***

  2. vias? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Interesting. Good work guys. But ot much use for anything but trivial boards without the ability to deal with vias.

    1. Re:vias? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      From the website: "The V-One's software will automatically convert vias in your design to bridges and will sandwich a layer of insulating ink between layers of conductive inks to create 2-layer boards."

  3. Track and Gap by residents_parking · · Score: 1

    Because PCB specs do matter, even when you know you're going to be reaching for the Dremel to drill the holes. They dictate what parts can and cannot be fitted, and whether a life-size prototype can be made. And whether you're going to have to do it all again in copper for the next phase.

  4. High resistance by thegarbz · · Score: 3, Informative

    See the comments section discussing the resistance of the trace. One of the developers commented the following:

    The sheet resistance is 12 miliohms per square, at a height of 70um. You can find the specifications on our website.

    As a rule of thumb, when using our printer you can expect a 12mil trace about 2 inches long should be about 1ohm.

    So 1 ohm for a 12mil 2inch trace. Compare that to 0.04 ohm for the same on a standard circuit board and you end up with something that is effectively useless unless you're only working with small signals.

    1. Re:High resistance by residents_parking · · Score: 2

      Depends. This is a well known issue with printed tracks. For power tracks yes there could be an issue. That's not to say there aren't workarounds eg manual reinforcing on critical nets. (I even saw that on a 4oz copper board used in a vehicle - busbars bolted to the thing!)

      But for signal tracks I don't think a few ohms is going to make much odds, might even be useful.

    2. Re:High resistance by danceswithtrees · · Score: 1

      If the traces sop up solder well, perhaps tin or wave solder the board before putting on the mask? Solder is likely a lot more conductive than the printed traces. Or alternatively after the traces have been printed, put on a layer of solder paste and reflow.

    3. Re:High resistance by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Might be useful, and behave completely differently from the real PCB later on.
      It is still useful, it could save some time to be able to manufacture a prototype with this so that software development can start without having to wait for real PCBs.
      If bugs occurs that won't be there in the real version that sucks will be a bit of a timesink but when a deadline is coming up you might have to waste some time just to push things out.

      For hobby projects it is probably really nice, but the price feels a too much.

    4. Re:High resistance by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      what about copper plating? jus thinkin

    5. Re: High resistance by ddtmm · · Score: 1

      Hey, someone with mod points, please mod his comment up. He is sooo right!

    6. Re:High resistance by thegarbz · · Score: 1

      That is actually a really good idea. Thanks.

    7. Re:High resistance by Sir+Holo · · Score: 1

      If the traces sop up solder well, perhaps tin or wave solder the board before putting on the mask? Solder is likely a lot more conductive than the printed traces. Or alternatively after the traces have been printed, put on a layer of solder paste and re-flow.

      Yes. We have the same problem at the nanometer scale (10^-9 meter). We usually expose custom devices or circuits on that scale (for good reasons) by using an electron beam, directly writing it (like with a pencil) by electron beam lithography (EBL). Also, to either mill, or to deposit platinum metal traces, we use a focused ion-beam (FIB) instrument.

      Although this is not news to many here, what is probably news to many here is that we have the same problem as the quoted poster mentioned. An etched trace is always best, in terms of low electrical resistance, in this case, too. We sometimes 'repair' or 'alter' computer chips by laying down some platinum, tungsten, etc. as a short between traces, or whatever, done also in the FIB.

      WE HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM: The direct-written FIB-traces and 'printed traces' of the article are generally less conductive than the copper/metal-lithography layer used for the main circuit. Solder is OK, but not a great conductor, either; it lies somewhere in between the two.

  5. No Linux Support by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Won't bother then

  6. And we're on to the next bunch of suckers by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    3D printing came and went in the consumer market because it made no sense. Sure, there are some valid uses here and there but we're not entering a post-scarcity era of mankind here.
    And if you don't believe me, how many people do you know that make their own clothes even though we've had consumer computerized sewing machines for 30 years now?
    So now we need to move on to the next great big thing, because we no longer create or invent things, we merely move money around based on whims.