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Ask Slashdot: How Should I Furnish (And Secure) My Work-From-Home Office?

"If someone gave you a big chunk of change to build a small one- or two-room office, what would you do?" asks long-time Slashdot reader darkpixel2k, as he plans to build a small office out in his backyard. My plan is to trench CAT6 from our ISP fiber DMARC over to the ~12x20 building, wire the structure up for network and power, and furnish it with a small rack, UPS, switch, router, a desk, whiteboard walls, a wireless access point, and an air conditioner for the summer heat... While I have the "big picture" idea in my head, I don't really have a grasp of the fine details that would make it a comfortable work environment... Should I put down carpet and one of those plastic mats for chairs? A friend suggested I wire up speakers so I don't have to listen to my terrible laptop speakers, and a large flat-screen TV so I can display dashboards and statistics.

Lastly, physical security is somewhat of an issue. While everything is insured, downtime of a few days or weeks due to meth heads would be a huge impact to the company and also on my paycheck. I was talking with the local company that builds small office-like structures, sheds, and barns, and they said they can "double up" the 2x4s to strengthen the walls and make a stronger door, but I need to supply my own lock. Should I use some off-the-shelf lock from a big-box hardware store? Should I install a digital lock?

There's more details in the original submission -- but it's also a lot of fun to speculate about what you'd do with a big chunk of change to build your own work-from-home office. So leave your best answers for darkpixel2k in the comments. How should he furnish (and secure) his work-from-home office?

43 of 303 comments (clear)

  1. My setup... by Frosty+Piss · · Score: 5, Insightful

    I suggest a table and chair, and a bookcase. Situate the table and chair such that you can gaze out a window.

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    1. Re:My setup... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Funny

      Aim for a cubical landscape in the living room, in order to increase productivity.

    2. Re:My setup... by mugurel · · Score: 4, Funny

      Great setup. Furthermore (since he said he didn't really grasp the fine details) I'd suggest: put the keyboard and the monitor on the table, and put the chair and the table close together, preferably with the chair right in front of the keyboard and monitor. Very comfortable, you won't regret it!

  2. Windows, man, windows. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Make sure you orient the building appropriately. Nothing like having to get up and close the drapes because the light from a window shines right on your screen between 11 and 11:45.

    I'd also cover power. Outlets at too low or too high a height are a bother, and so is a paucity of them.

  3. Dig down first by ColdWetDog · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Before you do anything - dig a big hole and put one of those giant concrete septic tanks in it. For extra special paranoia, punch a hole in one side, put a metal door in it and then fill out a trench filled with sand so you have an escape tunnel. Put a sump pump (with appropriate battery backup), a ladder and stock it with whatever you need to survive the next four years.

    The 21st Century approach to the 1960's bomb shelter.

    Can't be too careful these days.

    --
    Faster! Faster! Faster would be better!
    1. Re:Dig down first by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

      I thought Hilary lost the election.

    2. Re:Dig down first by PolygamousRanchKid+ · · Score: 5, Funny

      A few minor additions . . .

      Instead of Scotts EZ Seed, plant your lawn with Punji sticks, dipped in concentrated Cone Snail toxin. Buy a sturdy wood chipper to get rid of any Meth Head corpses. A coyote or a stray dog gnawing on the leg of a human corpse is bound to attract attention, and you don't want any of that. You can, however, use the refuse from the wood chipper to make Soylent Meth Head Green Dog Food. Don't worry, your dog won't get Meth Mouth from a Meth Head doggie treat.

      Instead of rock salt or bird-shot loads that you use for plinking the neighborhood kids on your lawn, use a hybrid load of buckshot and potassium chloride, in rock crystalline form, to dispatch the Meth Heads with steel-soled boots who make it through the Punji stick fields. The potassium chloride causes immediate cardiac arrest, so if the cops show up before you wood chipperize the Meth Head, you can just say that the shotgun blast startled the Meth Head, causing a heart attack. "He must have taken too much meth, huh?"

      If you've ever visited the home of a Meth Head, you'll notice that it is packed to the rafters with useless junk. Meth Heads don't sleep at night and wander around stealing stuff that they can hawk for Meth Cash, but they also end up with a lot strange stuff. So you might encounter a Meth Head wearing SWAT team body armor, that he picked up off a sleeping cop. In that case, as your last line of defense, you should keep a Heckler & Koch MP7 handy. Note the MP7, and not the MP5. The MP7 will stop just about anything, including the SWAT team BearCat, if the Meth Head has stolen that, as well.

      Enjoy the tranquility of feeling safe in your office!

      --
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    3. Re:Dig down first by glitch! · · Score: 2

      I like where you are going with this. I was thinking of concrete walls: ICF (insulated concrete forms). No windows. And if you have a tunnel, do you need a door? Maybe have a roof exit and ladder for a real emergency. Meth heads would have a hard time figuring out how to get in. And I guarantee you will not hear any road noise.

      Going back to the windows, how about installing real windows inside (behind the concrete) with variable lighting and images that can be replaced? I have often thought about having a man cave that looked like something from the USS Enterprise, with windows that showed a star field or some interesting space feature.

      --
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    4. Re:Dig down first by jabuzz · · Score: 4, Funny

      This is how to do it properly...

      http://www.colinfurze.com/bunk...

  4. Easy - buyt a container. by BarbaraHudson · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Just buy a container and convert it. Steel floor, walls, roof, doors. Paint it distinctive colors, (maybe a rainbow) and should someone try to swipe it, it will stick out like a sore thumb.

    --
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    1. Re:Easy - buyt a container. by swb · · Score: 5, Informative

      It's kind of more complicated than that, isn't it?

      A bare steel container is like an oven in the summer and freezing in the winter. And dark without windows.

      You would need to frame it inside, insulate it, come up with some kind of HVAC solution, maybe cut some kind of windows into it for natural lighting, not to mention safely wiring it and grounding it properly, both for conventional power and against lightning (and maybe even for general safety if its near overhead power lines) and making sure the roof didn't leak.

      And pretty much anywhere, but especially in a cold climate, you want it on some kind of footings to get it above ground level. Maybe in Arizona you could get away with it on raised slab only, but I'd want it some level above the ground to keep out water at a minimum and in a cold climate to not leach away my heat into the ground. Plus footings would get the whole thing level which would be helpful.

      Containers are kind of an interesting building unit, but they still require much of the same interior construction as stick built. I'd bet stick building a single room outside building would be less hassle than converting a shipping container, unless your idea of a shipping container is the same as a third world refugee.

      Shipping containers really get interesting if you want to do unusual multi-level buildings where their structural attributes outweigh their complications. I keep waiting for a post-apocalyptic movie to feature a shipping container fortress or walled city.

    2. Re:Easy - buyt a container. by BarbaraHudson · · Score: 3, Interesting

      It's done all the time, including in snowy climates. My sister has a friend who turned 3 containers into a crafts workshop, and it's going to be -21 without the wind chill in just a few hours. :-)

      Painting it with bright colours that reflect more sunlight reduces the load on AC in the summer if that's a concern.

      Besides, we're not talking about turning it into a home - just a work space. Still, if you want, you can even buy pre-converted shipping containers if you want to live in one. and they meet local building codes. And look at the multi-level buildings that have been built.

      And then there's the data center in a shipping container, which might give some inspiration.

      Think of shipping containers as giant LEGO blocks. You can build all sorts of things out of them.

      --
      "Transparent" is a shit show that trades on every stereotype going. A man in drag is NOT a transsexual.
    3. Re:Easy - buyt a container. by swb · · Score: 2

      I'm not saying it couldn't be done, but I'm thinking it would be a pretty miserable space with too little done to accommodate the fact that it's just a metal box. It was -24F here yesterday according to the NWS and without heating and insulation, that box would have been like a walk in freezer.

      I've done work in similar kinds of industrial control structures (essentially metal boxes but not built as shipping containers) and they are pretty awful in terms of being either hot or cold without full-bore HVAC running. I had to set up a control system in one in late March where it was only 40F and it was like a meat locker inside.

      Anything you mechanically heat or cool will also need insulation unless you want to spend a fortune on power. Maybe for a crafts-type workshop you could go extreme minimalism and just glue foam board to the walls, suspend a 5000 BTU electric heater and mount some high-CFM fans for the summer.

      But the OP wanted it as a home office space, not a place to do woodwork or ceramics.

      At that point, the better pre-fab solution is some kind of construction trailer purpose built for the use.

  5. Laptop? by techno-vampire · · Score: 5, Insightful

    If you're setting up a full-sized home office in its own building, why are you limiting yourself to a laptop? Set yourself up with a proper desktop computer with a nice, big monitor, good speakers and as much RAM and disk space as you want. If you need to take things into your company's offices, you can always either use a flash drive or transfer what you need to your laptop, but if you're going to this much expense, there's no reason to pinch pennies here. And, while I'm thinking of it, put in a good floor safe; not just for added security, but to protect your records in case of fire or flood.

    --
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  6. Start with an 8' tall throne by rsilvergun · · Score: 5, Funny

    made of skulls. I recommend lava and/or pools of sharks or piranha (whichever's in season). For security nothing beats savage panthers, but you can use tigers in a pinch. You'll probably want to invest in a pool of acid and winch/pulley system to lower intruders into. There's a pretty good guide over here.

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  7. Keep precious things in the house by nicolaiplum · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Bear in mind that a smaller outdoor structure will not be as secure as a larger dwelling (and property insurance may not cover anything valuable in it, you should check). You will also need to keep it heated in winter, if you are anywhere it gets cold, or the equipment will suffer (from condensation, if nothing else).

    I would not recommend working next to a rack of gear, it's noisy. There's a reason we have machine rooms and offices and they're not the same space.

    So, what I suggest doing is to install insulation, heating, cooling, network cable, power, etc, as you have described. Then install whatever seating, desking, etc, that you might like. Then install basic networking gear (that you aren't going to be too upset with losing in case of a burglary). Then install a suitable display screen (when a 27" 4K display costs ~$600, perhaps you could cope with losing one to a burglary - depends how well off or how well insured you are, and what your local crime rate is). Use a laptop to compute with and take it indoors when you're not using it. Leave the rack of compute gear inside too, in a room you are not in most of the time. Don't leave any data storage out there, put that in your house also.

    Obscure the windows in this outhouse while you are not using it; blinds, curtains, or shutters (locked or interior, so the burglar can't just open them and take a peek). Do not be seen loading the outhouse up with gear either, or someone may make a mental note and come back later, when you are out.

    It sounds cool, but bear security in mind.

    --
    "For a successful technology, reality must take precedence over public relations, for Nature cannot be fooled"
    1. Re:Keep precious things in the house by Uberman23 · · Score: 2

      First off a nod to nicolaiplum (giggle outhouse) and blankinthefill (giggle hollow-core) for great advice. However I feel compelled to give you a bit more detail. Second, congrats on living the dream :-)

      Comfort:
      The first and foremost piece of the comfort puzzle will be the air (temperature, humidity, air-quality, etc.). Basically you will want to make sure that your 12x20 office doesn't become a 12x20 coffin or swamp or oven.

      Given the small internal volume you may want to consider an air-exchanger (google it) to move outside air inside without dramatically heating or cooling the interior (saves money, and you don't suffocate or suffer from ozone created by electronics). It may be a good idea to throw a filter on this system as well, to lower airborne particulates.

      If you live where humidity is a thing, you may want to look into a dehumidifier (opposite tech if it is Manitoba in the winter or Arizona anytime, but be careful! You will want to have it controlled by some sort of a humidity meter as to not mess up your gear while protecting your sinuses).

      You will also need some method of heating and/or cooling depending on your climate (90% sure this is going to be electric given that it is an out-building), so maybe look into "mini-split" systems as they are typically the most efficient (if the budget allows). Otherwise it will be important figure if you are in a heating or cooling zone, and how far into that definition you are.

      Then we come to insulation. Insulation in the floor and ceiling are the most important. If you are having this built for you, you will likely end up with a "sealed envelope". This means that the air exchanger is a good idea, so you don't have to leave a window open. Insulation wise you can satisfy the tinfoil hat guys with a foil-foam-foil type insulation for cheap in the walls (it will need to be installed with an air gap on both side FYI). In the ceiling, go for max R-Value. Don't forget to insulate the floor if your winters are below freezing for more than a month.

      Speaking of flooring... Carpet is typically the most comfortable as it provides some insulation as well as cushion, but is harder to maintain in an out-building (especially with the mud you mentioned). However, you can get a 2 for 1 with a hardfloor option (Pergo, Marmoleum, Tile, whatever) if you install radiant heating (cold floors in the summer don't suck). That also means no rolling pad

      Lighting should be “warm” (2700k-ish) regardless of bulb type, but LEDs last the longest obviously. Go for at least 3 separate light sources including a desk lamp to give the most comfort. Given you are in software, I recommend at least one source of indirect lighting, putting lighting on a dimmer.

      Lastly, although views are nice, you need to ask what motivates you personally. If you are a view guy (I am), then make sure you place the window so that it looks onto something awesome 365 year. Don't worry about glare, as you can always go low tech and tape a piece of cardboard or paper on the part of the window responsible. Or go high tech and install dimming windows. Or in-between and use horizontal blinds (which can come in insulated varieties BTW, help with the
      Security:
      Security is all about getting a human enough time to intervene with a proverbial shotgun, whether physical or digital. Otherwise it is a "deterrent", like not leaving your Rolex on the dash of your car, or having a firewall.

      Door-wise go for insulated steel on a steel frame. Locks were already covered by “blankinthefill”. Make sure the hinges aren’t accessible from the outside, and that you have at least one burly dead-bolt. This implies that door swings in not out FYI. This is enough to frustrate your average tweaker. However a truly determined individual will just take a chainsaw to the wall. Don’t worry about “doubling up studs”, and just sheet it in plywood before the decorative siding. Or for a budget opt

    2. Re:Keep precious things in the house by jabuzz · · Score: 3, Informative

      Something that always sticks in my mind was a break in at a working men's club in the UK late on Christmas Eve many years ago. They got a lot of cash as being Christmas Eve they had not had time to bank it yet.

      Nice solidly built brick building so they took a sledgehammer and went *THROUGH* the wall. Probably no harder than a chainsaw in the wall, though I could put a bunch of screws and nails in that would make using a chainsaw painful.

      Anyway the take away lesson being, if they *WANT* to get in they *WILL* get in. The trick is to make your place less attractive to break in than somewhere else by making it more hassle.

  8. Physical Door security. by blankinthefill · · Score: 4, Informative

    For the door, make sure you are not using a hollow core door, and that you reinforce the frame, while also using an aftermarket strike/kickplate that has been developed for security, as that will make it much more difficult to just kick the door in. I would also looking at getting a core from a good company, not just some off the shelf part, because the better locks can be hard to find. Also, something that is more than just your normal pin and tumbler lock, like a dimple lock, can help. ABUS makes really good locks, and I would recommend looking at them. There's a few others too. You might want to look outside the residential core offerings they have into the commercial grade ones. (make sure to look for something as close to bump-proof and rake-proof as possible. Again, things like dimple locks will help here.) Same goes for the protection plates on the doors, so someone can't just card your door open or anything. No solution is going to stop a determined attacker forever, but doing these things will make it significantly harder to breach the door, and makes it more likely that someone maybe tries to kick it in once or twice and then leaves.

    1. Re:Physical Door security. by coats · · Score: 2

      ...and replace the standard (short) hinge and lock-striker screws with steel screws long enough to anchor through the door-frame into the framing behind it. 3.5-inch stainless steel screws are excellent for this. Combined with a good (steel?) door, no one is going to bash it down easily.

      --
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  9. Bank the money and go into the real office by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Why bother outfitting your home with all that crap? Just being your laptop home from the office, or, better yet -- leave your work at the office.

    If you've got a "chunk of change" burning a hole in your pocket and want to spend it on this kind of stuff, renovate or expand the actual house instead of building another building that needs its own climate control, power, and security. Build an addition. Then when you don't need for a home office anymore, you can use it for more regular household space instead of an inconveniently-located additional bedroom.

  10. Aluminum foil by Steve1952 · · Score: 2

    Be sure to cover all surfaces with aluminum foil!

  11. Re:how... what... by dreamchaser · · Score: 4, Insightful

    If you do not think physical security is important then you don't know the least bit about security.

  12. My 2 Cents by oldgraybeard · · Score: 2

    I have been a self employed work for hire software developer/troubleshooter for 27+ years. So have a lot of experience with work areas.

    Choice 1, for servers would be lease virtual servers, Where ever it works for you.

    Choice 2, if want full control of physical servers, rent a half rack secure space in an established data center that has full power backup, fire control and 24/7 access control security.

    Choice 3, rent commercial space at least 2 rooms, one office, one servers and storage.

    For access control setup full VPN access for work and management. And only open public ports where needed./wanted.

    Do your server stuff using option 1, 2 or 3, I use all 3 options and have never had issues, Don't try to duplicate what they do much better than you ever could do. And the comments about not working where your servers are except when needed IS very valid. They are warm and noisy ;) I know when I go to the secure data center. I wear a t-shirt and take headphones for ear protection ;)
    I also have an office (2 miles from my home), 2 rooms (one for my office, one for some servers) with a door between and I still work in my home office most of the time ;)

    Then make a really nice office work space in your home. And it must be isolated. Dump laptops and go with a nice workstation. Multiple monitors, etc. if you do go with a laptop, get one capable of having a nice docking station, that can support multiple monitors real keyboard, mouse etc. I do have several laptops I use for onsite stuff based on the needs.

    I know it really does not address your question. But in my experience your option is not one I would entertain. Because in the past I have tried it. I did everything in my home, various rooms, before I got married ;) Thankfully marriage forced some great for me ;) changes ;)

  13. Problem. Solution. Specification. by gavron · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Before asking for "how do I figure out what to do?" (spec) you should define what's up (problem) and determine how to handle it (solution) and then come up with the specification.

    "Trench CAT6"???? No, you are unclear on the concept of a)trench b)concuit, and c)CAT-6. Before you ask me why I'm dissing your plan see above about Problem/Solution/Spec. In short, copper bad, fiber-optics provide opto-isolation, CAT-6 won't get you anything CAT-5 won't since you stupidly rely on *one* commodity ISP, and you have nothing to trench for. Short answer: inner-duct with multi-mode fiber will carry 1G, 10G with no electrical connection nor ground issues.

    UPS? No. LOL. That's good for your kitchen. If you want solid power get a -48VDC battery pack, a rectifier/charger, and an inverter for AC operations.

    Whiteboard walls? How is "what I do with my walls" part of any IT strategy? Do whatever you want with your walls. You want IT advice? See above. You want interior decorations advice, see an interior decorator.

    Your concepts of physical security (double up the wall beams and which lock should I supply) are absurd.

    Let us know when you have your fortress done.

    I'd like the opportunity to drive my car through your front door in 15 seconds and see how great your $3.75 works.

    I did try to be helpful... but as other posters have pointed out... SERIOUSLY???

    E

  14. Re:how... what... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Why are we still talking about physical security?

    Because this is a business. Theft will cause downtime, downtime costs a business money.
    And don't bother screaming "Buy insurance", sure that'll cover the loss of equipment and damage, but it won't instantly replace anything, so there'll still be downtime.

    If you're lucky you might just be down for a day, but just think what'll happen if you're at a critical point in a contract with a deadline approaching. How understanding will your clients be if you miss it? It might even cost you down the line when they give the next contract to someone else.

  15. Security concerns by 93+Escort+Wagon · · Score: 3, Insightful

    It is important to determine whether your wife is a spy. Check to see if the oven has a hidden weapons compartment.

    --
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  16. home office by smylie · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I had to go through a similar setup at the start of last year - with the exception that i had to pay for it all myself, so I was working on a budget.

    I got a kitset office - 2.4m x 2.4 meter with a small veranda/sheltered area out the front. This had to fit an existing concrete pad so it was perhaps a little smaller than I would have liked. (But then again, I didn't want a huge building taking up all the space in my back yard!)

    I insulated and lined it myself. I was expecting it have issues keeping it warm in winter, but ended up with the exact opposite - with no ceiling space it's very hard to keep cool in summer. I bought an air con unit about a week into using it.

    I got a sparky to wire the unit up to the house - mains only (no data). I had to dig the 1.5 meter trench myself. Internet is just via wireless into the house - speed is fine (about 35M) and no worries about redundancy. I use a laptop and have data on my phone so in the event of a blackout (which I wouldn't expect now days) I can just use the laptop and phone for access.

    You'll definitely want carpet, I wouldn't bother with a plastic protector. White boards etc too. You want it feel office like imo.

    Security - I got an alarm that texts my phone if ever there is a break-in. After a while though I stopped using it and often don't even bother locking the door at night. My laptop comes in to the house with me at night, and the most expensive thing left in there is my keyboard or maybe the air con unit. It's hard to make a space with glass windows/doors secure. The alarm will hopefully scare people off if you are home, but if you're out then they're kinda pointless.

       

  17. Hey! I think I'll ask Slashdot! by Frosty+Piss · · Score: 4, Funny

    "Hey! I think I'll ask Slashdot! All these IT pros will have the solution!"

    .... Later...

    "What a bunch of assholes..."

    --
    If you want news from today, you have to come back tomorrow.
  18. Re: how... what... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Cloud, aka "I don't care about privacy or security"

    Ideally you only use cloud services for redundant systems, never for primary systems. To give a theoretical example, what if your AWS data center catches fire or is struck by a meteorite, airplane, space junk, etc. Or the more obvious, what if the government or a crime syndicate wants your data, do you think ANYTHING is going to stop them short of flinging it into space?

    From a totally serious point of view, your primary data should be on servers YOU own, in a data center you have 24 hour access to, with armed security. If you can not afford that, your data is not valueable. But let's say your data is reasonable, but not military valueable. You can do exactly what the submitter suggests. But don't go too fancy. You want at least two-factor security, eg, a mechanical key that opens outer doors and an electronic key on the inner doors, and you can put whatever fancy biometric or IoT features you want on that inner one. The outer one should require a strong deadbolt, into a steel and concrete door frame.

    But I digress, if you are building a 1200sq foot office for your business, I presume this is not a "shed" type of building, and something that would have a loading dock or a strong garage door so you can get equipment in and out. If you want to prevent methheads and such from breaking in, or vandalizing it, use steel doors, concrete slab or concrete basement, and don't use wood framing., you can use wood on the inside, but the outside needs to look like just a house. So if your other building looks like a glass and wood structure, you'll likely want to clad the building to look like the other one from the street.

  19. Here by fyngyrz · · Score: 5, Insightful

    1) The best chair you can find for desk work

    2) A nice desk, with a surface that breathes; you don't want glass or something else that will make you sweat when you make solid contact with it.

    3) Nice monitors: Don't be drawn in by the resolution; what you want is something easy to read so you don't get eyestrain. Use the TV standards: Looking straight on at any monitor, the size/ distance should allow you to see the whole thing.

    4) A *great* keyboard, if you will be typing.

    5) a fast, quality computer. You won't regret it.

    6) Depending on how distractable you are and who else is around, and at what distances, you might want to consider soundproofing. This provides both privacy and prevents others from being irritated with your own noises.

    7) Consider pets. They're awesome stress relievers, and good to hang out with on breaks.

    8) take breaks.

    --
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    1. Re:Here by war4peace · · Score: 2

      9. Keep the fucking kids and wife away, else all 8 points above are moot.

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    2. Re:Here by dwywit · · Score: 3, Insightful

      You're already at +5, so I'll comment instead.

      All good advice - not sure about the pets - maybe have pets but don't allow them into the inner sanctum. Cats on keyboards, dander, hair, etc.

      Also, have a backup system. I mean, backup computer as well as backups of data. Perhaps a laptop that's one level down from the main system, i.e. a Corei5 laptop backing up the Corei7 main computer. Something that will keep you working if the main system is compromised or damaged. Use it regularly, perhaps at night to watch netflix - that way you'll tend to keep it up to date instead of switched off until the rare occasion when you *really* need it.

      --
      They sentenced me to twenty years of boredom
    3. Re:Here by AmiMoJo · · Score: 2

      1) The best chair you can find for desk work

      I'm in the market. Aeron seems to be the usual "best" recommendation, anything else?

      3) Nice monitors

      I recommend at least 3. One for your editor, one for reference material (i.e. stackexchange browser) and one for Slashdot. Make sure the Slashdot screen is out of sight of any webcams.

      4) A *great* keyboard, if you will be typing.

      Everyone always says Model M, but there are actually loads of great keyboards with Cherry MX switches now. I prefer the brown ones, tactile but quiet. If you prefer low profile then Lenovo keyboards are hard to beat.

      Also consider getting a mic and basic mixer. If you mic up the keyboard and pump the resulting sound out of your speakers you will sound like those uber hackers in the movies.

      --
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    4. Re:Here by Bongo · · Score: 2

      8) b. A yoga mat on the floor, and a screen where you can view Grokkr -- or even better, a park a few mins away where you can get some distance viewing and trees and sky. Maybe with a track where you can spend 10 mins doing short sprints. [1]

      [1] There's a view now that short intense exercise is better than long aerobic treadmill pounding sessions. I'm someone lazy and sedentary, with little time, so this helps a lot.

    5. Re:Here by kwalker · · Score: 2

      I'm in the market. Aeron seems to be the usual "best" recommendation, anything else?

      Just about anything with a mesh back and bottom panel. I have an old Aeron at work and a cheap mesh office chair from CostCo at home. The Aeron is a more robust chair, but the CostCo knock-off brand works quite well. It keeps me significantly cooler than a padded office chair and it's plenty supportive. It's all personal preference, but I very much enjoy being less sweaty while sitting at my desk.

      --
      Improvise, adapt, and overcome.
  20. Re:how... what... by unixisc · · Score: 5, Funny

    I know that finding good people is tough, but is the submitter serious about hiring meth-heads?

  21. Re: how... what... by kobaz · · Score: 2

    Umm, Yahoo?..... Anyone?

    --

    The goal of computer science is to build something that will last at least until we've finished building it.
  22. A bathroom. by Mal-2 · · Score: 3, Insightful

    A half bath would be very helpful, and if you intend to have clients in and out, it's pretty much a necessity. Even though it's not a big deal for you to go into the house to use the bathroom, do you really want to make a client do that? Once you have plumbing, you have something closer to a barebones apartment than to a shack. Unless you're just telecommuting, it's not really reasonable to build without one.

    Perhaps think backward. Take a studio apartment concept, and figure out what you don't need. You don't need a kitchen, but the bathroom has a sink, so you're still good to go with convenience items and stored prepared food. Coffeemaker, mini-fridge, microwave. You don't need a bed, or if you opt for one it need not be a full-time bed. A futon might suffice. (There may be times you need to lay down, but going back in the house to do so would break your flow somehow. Like supervising compiling or rendering or 3D printing or something.) Then everything you would want in any office -- your choice of furniture and equipment.

    What's also important is what doesn't go in there. Network gear is probably better left in the house, but there are cases where you might want to move it. But more importantly, don't take anything irrelevant out there. I don't mean you can't have a Rubik's Cube on your desk, I mean don't put anything out there that is totally unrelated, except in dire emergency. Otherwise you will soon feel like you are working in a closet -- because you essentially are.

    Look at this space as more valuable than the house it lies behind, on a per-square-foot basis -- why would you want to store junk in the high-rent district?

    --
    How is the Riemann zeta function like Trump rallies? Both have an endless number of trivial zeros.
  23. Re: how... what... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    Or dropbox?

  24. Building by Spazmania · · Score: 2

    Putting this in a separate building instead of renovating a room in your house creates some major cost.

    A separate structure will require power and HVAC and unless you fancy running through the cold when you need to pee it'll require plumbing too.

    HVAC is a tricky beast. You have to control both temperature and humidity. You can hack together temperature control with cheap window units but if you want humidity control so you're not wet in the summer and sick (because of the dryness) in the winter you'll need real (expensive) HVAC.

    Power is a fiddly beast too. You're not just running an outlet here, you're feeding a subpanel.

    You're not erecting a shed here. You're in to at least a few tens of thousands of dollars. Just how generous is your new employer?

    --
    Moderating "-1, Disagree" is simple censorship. Have the guts to post your opinion.
  25. "Trench" CAT6. by Above · · Score: 2

    Most of what OP asks is basic construction better suited to ask your general contractor. Slabs, wall thickness, air conditioners and such are all going to be governed by code and standard formulas. It will likely have to be drawn up and approved by an engineer and a permit taken out for a habitable space. I want to address the "trenching" part though, since probably few people have Outside Plant experience. Any copper running between buildings can create a ground loop. That's why the code for the electrical service running to this building will have strict requirements on ground rods and how they get connected. If you run any copper cable between the buildings (including CAT-anything or RG-anything) IT BECOMES PART OF THIS GROUNDING AND SURGE SYSTEM. Special terminations would be required at each end connected to the grounding the properly ground it and protect from surges (e.g. lightning) and keep this special office from going up in flames. For the most part these days it is simply cheaper to use fiber optics. The light guide does not conduct electricity and thus has none of the grounding issues. Cheap switches come with SFP ports now, and multimode SFP's can be had for $30 or less. I would strongly recommend running conduit, buying a pre-terminated fiber cable to pull in it (likely 4 fibers, 2 for your active/in use pair, 2 for spares). Whatever you do, make sure the person operating the machine calls before they dig. And I hope you don't have a sprinkler system, as those are pretty much never marked.

  26. Re:how... what... by iamgnat · · Score: 4, Funny

    I assume he's worried about meth heads breaking in & stealing his stuff to sell to support their habit

    In which case the answer to the question is to use that lump of money to move to a better area. Alternatively if they are really already in a good area where such crime is not really an issue, use it for treatment of their obvious paranoia.