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The Icelandic Families Tracking Climate Change With Measuring Tape (undark.org)

Gloria Dickie, writing for Undark Magazine: A 30-meter Komelon-branded measuring tape, a pencil, and a yellow paper form are all Hallsteinn Haraldsson carries with him when he travels to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland. But unfurling the measuring tape before me at his home in Mosfellsbaer, a town just outside of Reykjavik, he says it is a significant upgrade from the piece of marked rope he used to bring along. With 11 percent of the landmass covered in ice, rapidly ebbing glaciers are threatening to reshape Iceland's landscape, and Haraldsson, 74, is part of a contingent of volunteer glacier monitors who are at the frontlines of tracking the retreat. Every autumn, Haraldsson, often accompanied by his wife and son, sets off on foot to measure the changes in his assigned glacier.

Their rudimentary tools are a far cry from the satellites and time-lapse photography deployed around the world in recent decades to track ice loss, and lately, there's been talk of disbanding this nearly century-old, low-tech network of monitors. But this sort of ground-truthing work has more than one purpose: With Iceland's glaciers at their melting point, these men and women -- farmers, schoolchildren, a plastic surgeon, even a Supreme Court judge -- serve not only as the glaciers' guardians, but also their messengers. Today, some 35 volunteers monitor 64 measurement sites around the country. The numbers they collect are published in the Icelandic scientific journal Jokull, and submitted to the World Glacier Monitoring Service database. Vacancies for glacier monitors are rare and highly sought-after, and many glaciers have been in the same family for generations, passed down to sons and daughters, like Haraldsson, when the journey becomes too arduous for their aging watchmen. It's very likely one of the longest-running examples of citizen climate science in the world. But in an age when precision glacier tracking can be conducted from afar, it remains unclear whether, or for how long, this sort of heirloom monitoring will continue into the future. It's a question even some of the network's own members have been asking.

2 of 88 comments (clear)

  1. The change is pretty visible here. by Rei · · Score: 5, Interesting

    We even got a new highest waterfall several years back. The highest used to be Glymur, at the bottom of Hvalfjörður (very pretty waterfall, BTW, strongly recommend the hike out to it). But Morsárjökull (a terminal glacier of Vatnajökull, the giant glacier in the southeast) receded up a cliff, leaving a series of waterfalls - Morsárfossar - which are taller than Glymur (but not as pretty).

    --
    Jesus: "Son of a ..." OnStar: "I have a son of a ***** on 5th and Clemson." -- "Jesus Christ Supercop"
    1. Re:The change is pretty visible here. by Rei · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Pictures: Glymur, Morsárfossar.

      Glymur falls down into a slot canyon. Most people go along the top route, along a trail called Leggjabrjótur (literally "Broken Leg" - let's just say that you don't want to fall ;) ). The bottom route is spectacular but not really recommended. You have to wade through a freezing cold river, and there's a serious risk of falling rocks, which would be pretty much instant death given how far they're falling. Lots of dead birds usually floating around down there (they nest in the cliffs around the falls).

      The story behind how it's created also relates to why so many things in the area begin with "Hval-" ("whale"). According to legend, a man met an elf woman, and ended up sleeping with her, with the promise that if a child resulted, he'd raise the child in the world of humans and have it baptized. Nine months later, he was at church, and a child was abandoned at the doorstep, with a note stating that the father of the child will have it baptized. The priest three times asked if anyone knew whose child it was, but he refused to speak up, despite knowing the truth. Enraged, the elf woman cast a curse on him, causing him to go mad and run off into the fjörd where he changed into a monstrous-sized red-headed whale (Rauðhöfði, "Redhead"), where he lived, destroying ships in his fury.

      One day he destroyed a boat containing a sorcerer's son. To get revenge, the sorcerer himself sat out, and when the whale emerged, he enchanged him into going a mindless blind rage. The sorceror sailed to the bottom of the fjörd, pursued by the whale, and ran inland; the enraged whale chased after him, flopping across the surface and digging out what would become the river channel of Botnsá. The sorceror climbed up the nearby mountain (Hvalfell, Whale Mountain), and the whale slowly thrashed its way up the side, gouging out the canyon in which Glymur flows; Glymur means clanging, due to the noise of the whale's thrashing, and the ridge there is Skjálfandahæðir or the Shaking Heights. Exhausted and bashed up, the whale managed only to reach the lake Hvalvatn (Whale Lake) before dying in its centre.

      This is of course a totally true story supported by modern science.

      --
      Jesus: "Son of a ..." OnStar: "I have a son of a ***** on 5th and Clemson." -- "Jesus Christ Supercop"