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New 3D Printing Technique Is 100 Times Faster Than Standard 3D Printers (ieee.org)

A new 3D-printing technique could render a three-dimensional object in minutes instead of hours -- at up to 100 times current speeds. The experimental approach uses a vat of resin and some clever tricks with UV and blue LED lights (no lasers needed) to accelerate the printing process. From a report: The technique looks almost like a time-reverse film loop of an object dissolving in a reservoir of acid. But instead of acid, this reservoir contains a specially-designed resin that hardens when exposed to a particular shade of blue light. Crucially, that hardening (the technical term is polymerization) does not take place in the presence of a certain wavelength of UV light. The resin is also particularly absorbent at the wavelengths of both the blue and UV light. So the intensity of UV or blue light going in translates directly to the depth to which light will penetrate into the resin bath. The brighter the light beam, the further it penetrates and the further its effects (whether inhibiting polymerization in the case of UV light, or causing it in the case of blue light) will be felt in the bath along that particular light path.

Timothy Scott, associate professor of chemical engineering at the University of Michigan, says the way to get a 3D-printed object out of this process is to send UV light through a glass-bottomed basin of resin. Then, at the same time, through that same glass window, send patterns of bright and dim blue light. If this printing process used only the blue light, it would immediately harden the first bit of resin it encounters in the basin -- the stuff just inside the glass. And so each successive layer of the object to be printed would need to be scraped or pulled off the window's surface -- a time-consuming and potentially destructive process.

55 comments

  1. Not New by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Informative
    1. Re:Not New by tomhath · · Score: 1

      That's a different process. The only thing in common is the claim of a 100x improvement in speed. And because this TED talk was three years ago, I suspect the process described doesn't work very well outside the lab.

    2. Re:Not New by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That is flat out not true, because i personally have visited Carbon Inc. (https://www.carbon3d.com/), met Joe and Phil DeSimone, worked iwth Elle, etc. This TED Talk was a master stroke as it was timed with a publication on the cover of Science and they raised $200M, and recently raised another $200M for a total of $422M in venture money raised. They have instruments in auto-factories at Ford and GM, have a big project with Adidas, are in 3 other verticals and have recently been moving towards the dental offices to rapid-print molds for retainers and such, done in the office during your visit.

      I'm not a fan of their business model (HaaS) and I'm not sure if they're profitable yet, and their printers I think need some work, and they employ about 90 people in Menlo Park which can be cheap, but you can walk into their lobby and see their portal showing many of their customer's printers at work (scrubbed of proprietary data, but their software platform enables remote service so they can see when things are working and when not); they had at least 200 deployed over a year ago and it's an industrial size instrument, not a toy.

  2. Seen the TED talk, years ago! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The catch was, that it was ridiculously overpriced (= for the price of a car) and patented.

    The textbook way of killing a good product/idea with greed. Ruining it not just for you, but for everyone.

    I hope some Chinese guys make a "fuck imaginary property!" knock-off to force their hand.

    1. Re:Seen the TED talk, years ago! by irving47 · · Score: 1

      Yeah, not only patented, but not for sale. Only available on some kind of licensed lease/rental deal on the machines.

      --
      I had a sucky sig.
  3. Creality S-11 ? by LifesABeach · · Score: 1

    Looks like fun. I was thinking of how to do this with Metal, and Carbon Fiber. Another application would be Zero Gravity.

    1. Re:Creality S-11 ? by bob4u2c · · Score: 1

      I was thinking of how to do this with Metal, and Carbon Fiber.

      Depends on how big of a metal part you need and what strength. If its small, there are 3D metal printers which start at about $100,000. If its larger metal parts you need, you could get a wax printer then send the mold off to be cast.

      If its carbon fiber parts your after, the wax approach might work as well. Cast the inverse mold of what you need, then layer carbon fiber sheets over that. Then melt away the mold.

      I remember reading somewhere that car manufactures are already using metal printers. It allows them to mock up things up in days instead of months. The parts aren't as strong, but it can give the design team and engineering team a good approximation of what the final manufactured part will look and perform like.

  4. slashdotted by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    destructive process

  5. About time! Now all I need is by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    a sample of Milla Jovovich's DNA

    1. Re:About time! Now all I need is by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      a sample of Milla Jovovich's DNA

      She has a very big nose, pretty eyes, and nothing much else worth mentioning.

  6. Do You Have Such A Printer Already? by dryriver · · Score: 1

    What I see is a nice, quick way to print 3D objects. Could be useful for future projects. Did they give you a free 3D printer that does this with the TED talk you watched?

    --
    Why did the chicken cross the road? Because Elon Musk put an AI chip in its head.
    1. Re:Do You Have Such A Printer Already? by NicknameUnavailable · · Score: 1

      This tech is over a decade old (in fact, it's so old the patent expired half a decade ago.)

  7. Resin Printers don't sell very well. by MindPrison · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I love the speed of these 3D printers using Resin, but as a Long-time 3D printing fanatic, I never got one as they are messy, expensive (resin is still hideously expensive) and fairly toxic.

    Normal PLA printing is slow, but not terribly slow for hobbyist, I can print a 14 x 14 x 14cm at 100my in less than 9 hours, and that's fairly speedy. If you ever want to have mass production of this, you can use it as a prop for injection molding later, and you can make as many copies as you want, dirt cheap.

    PLA printers are a big hit with the consumers, just here where I live - our local hardware chain imports thousands of them every year because they're increasing in popularity, they're cheap, they're fairly easy to maintain now, the PLA filament is dirt-cheap but very environmentally friendly as it's just basically Corn Starch. You can have your commercial 3D printer next to your computer like you had your laser printer in the good old days, and have more fun than ever. I can't even imagine life without my little 3D printing workhorse now. Spare parts for the appliance that broke in the house? No problem. Last time I printed with flexible filament to make a couple of rubber fittings for my kitchen ventilator, the light fixture broke (it's over 30 years old), and the cover plastic that covers it, tabs broke. Took me 10-15 minutes to measure and design an improved flexible insert - 50 minutes to print with a traditional Fusion Filament printer, and done.

    Same with my 3D characters, I've been wanting to hold those in my hands for 10+ years, and today it's as easy as a little patience. Takes way longer to order them somewhere and finally get them by mail. 3D printing speed issues isn't that much of an issue unless you're talking workshop speeds where you need it to meet the demands of visitors in eg. a store printing figurines or gimmicks on demand. Kind of like the old 1-hour photo for passports in the old days.

    That said, I'd love a super speedy 3D printer (who wouldn't?) - but it has to be user friendly, non-messy and with cheap materials.

    --
    What this world is coming to - is for you and me to decide.
    1. Re:Resin Printers don't sell very well. by TomGreenhaw · · Score: 1

      Thanks for sharing your experience.

      >Took me 10-15 minutes to measure and design an improved flexible insert
      What software do you use for design?

      >I printed with flexible filament
      What filaments do you like?

      Do you know if resin printers have a nice smooth surface? The surfaces on my 3D prints aren't really smooth...

      --
      Greed is the root of all evil.
    2. Re:Resin Printers don't sell very well. by MindPrison · · Score: 4, Informative

      >What software do you use for design?

      Blender, it's fully open source, free for everyone to use, for whatever purpose.

      >What filaments do you like?

      I love regular PLA, there are of course quality variations, but I've found that various colors have various temperature tolerances, too much to mention here, but the blue color PLA seems to be the most solid, and easiest to work with, gives the cleanest results. Not all blues are alike, the transparent ones tend to clog up the nozzles and I use those for transparent purposes, for example when I need a button on a device with a LED light behind it.

      I like flexible filaments, but even they come in many variations, too many to mention, some are flexible, but won't flex "back" into their original form if they get flexed too much etc, I absolutely love the "glow-in-the-dark" filaments, I often use that for outlines and for special effects on various things - but they have their drawbacks too, such as being brittle and hard on the nozzles..

      Resin printers tend to have the best surfaces of them all, but you still need to use some kind of solution to fixate them so they "dilute" the material, sort of "melt" them a little, you can also bake PLA in an oven around 100c to harden them, but they will shrink a little in size as the price for this.

      You can achieve almost Resin like resolution on good commercial 3D printers, my flashforge can compete quite easily with a resin printer, but only when I make the printer print extremely slowly, I rarely need that as I usually print big - but i've made many tests, and it works, they're THAT good today, but it takes patience, learning to know the temperatures of the various filaments, and your printers nozzle quality play a part too, as well as your printers resolution of the stepper motors, accuracy etc. Don't get fooled into believing that a printer costing 10 x as much will give you better results, it's mostly up to you, experimentation and some patience.

      For absolute accuracy, nothing beats a resin printer though. If you want to make jewellery models, a resin printer would be the way to go.

      --
      What this world is coming to - is for you and me to decide.
    3. Re: Resin Printers don't sell very well. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Try FreeCAD, which does CAM and G-code too. And smoothness is a matter of printing precision and polishing. Just look at how fine it can print.
      Ultimately, you'll always have to do some afterwork.

    4. Re:Resin Printers don't sell very well. by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      I had a Laserwriter Plus. A complex page would take upwards of 20 minutes to render, so I didn't print much until I was really ready for final proofing or WYSIWYG checks. That was "slow" but if every print took a whole workshift I wouldn't have gotten it.

      When a 3D printer can make 4-6 models per work shift they'll sell much better.

      Old Xerox machines needed bottles of toner and before that copy fluid and ink. Today's inkjets and lasers are barely messy by comparison.

      If this resin system is really fast and makes good models, they'll design self-contained systems that clean the model and recycle any excess fluid. Maybe a vacuum pump and a final dazzle with UV, who knows.

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    5. Re:Resin Printers don't sell very well. by danbert8 · · Score: 1

      I'm not the OP, but I use TinkerCAD for most of my modeling. It's not super powerful, but it's very user friendly and easy to learn quickly. It's all done in the browser too and for free!

      As far as the smoothness of the prints, that's going to come down to the printer resolution and print settings. I've gotten some surprisingly smooth prints out of a cheapo monoprice mini printer, but you've gotta print in thin layers and at slow speeds. I usually choose to print faster and then sand and/or paint the final product.

      --
      Yes it's an anecdote! Were you expecting original research in a Slashdot comment?
    6. Re:Resin Printers don't sell very well. by LynnwoodRooster · · Score: 1

      Print with ABS at high resolution, then give your finished products a quick wipe with acetone - they'll be nice and smooth!

      --
      Browsing at +1 - no ACs, I ignore their posts. So refreshing!
    7. Re:Resin Printers don't sell very well. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      What software do you use for design?

      If you like mousing try Fusion360. If you like scripting try OpenSCAD or one of its many variants.

      Some people swear by Blender and Google/Trimble SketchUp, but only if you like wasting hours or days trying to fix the non-watertight models that they produce. Slicer software needs watertight models otherwise it produces failed prints.

  8. Not going to happen with metal. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    What laypeople call metal, are usually mixed crystals of several elements/molecules in a very specific configuration. Unless your printer can place individual atoms, you will not get the right kind of properties.

    E.g. hardened tool steel or spring steel will never ever be doable with just 3D printing and nothing else.
    You'd still at the very least need an oven to heat it in a very specific curve to get the very specific properties. And support a shitton of different mixes of "steel plus other elements".

    1. Re:Not going to happen with metal. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Oh geez, you'd better tell NASA that their laser sintering metal powder printer can't possibly work and that it can't possibly be starting with 100/0% titanium/iron at the bottom of a rocket nozzle and smoothly change to 0/100% titanium/iron at the top. And that they then can't simply extract the iron from the remaining powder at the end with magnets. Those douches, what would they know?

  9. New? by RyanFenton · · Score: 2, Informative

    This technique (UV rapid resin printing) has been around for years and years.

    Here's one from a few years ago:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?...

    There's like hundreds of videos on youtube at least on variants of this technique, all around that same 100-ish times faster than additive printing range of minutes versus hours of print time.

    It's cool - but this is like one of those 'revolutionary' battery marketing releases where they ignore the drawbacks and don't mention the dozen times this idea has been pushed before.

    Ryan Fenton

    1. Re:New? by aicrules · · Score: 1

      The use of a second light that inhibits the UV blue light instead of oxygen addresses a couple of the drawbacks of the process used by Carbon3D. It's not a leap, but still useful step.

    2. Re:New? by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      The most important benefit is that pulling a 3D object out of a bath of liquid like that looks waaaaaay cooler than regular 3D printing.

  10. amazing by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    now I can have a vat full of creimer heads and GWAR penises in minutes instead of hours.

    Progress.

    1. Re: amazing by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      And teenage girls can âoedesign and build your own custom dildo.â

  11. Material Properties by Thelasko · · Score: 1

    Does the resulting object have desirable mechanical properties, or is it fragile and useless? Most people want to do something useful with their creations.

    I don't care if the printer is slow if it can make an object out of Nylon with 30% glass fiber reinforcement. (or even better, Inconel!) That material has good mechanical properties.

    --
    One of our competitors trademarked the term "hypothesis". From now on, we will call them "boneheaded ideas".
    1. Re:Material Properties by hipp5 · · Score: 1

      A big market for resin printers is dental laboratories. They use them to make casts of clients' teeth for fitting dental devices.

    2. Re:Material Properties by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Which is friggin hilarious because most of the 3D printing resins are extremely toxic.

  12. NEXT! by Thud457 · · Score: 3, Funny

    "no lasers needed"

    BOR-ING!
    Methinks they weren't trying hard enough to require lasers. Disappointing.

    --

    the preceding comment is my own and in no way reflects the opinion of the Joint Chiefs of Staff

    1. Re:NEXT! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      because the water needed for the shark ruins the print.

    2. Re:NEXT! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "no lasers needed"

      BOR-ING!

      Methinks they weren't trying hard enough to require lasers. Disappointing.

      WAIT! They still promise proprietary parts for the head and ridiculous, unpublished calibration techniques.

  13. Speed is the least of my consern. by jellomizer · · Score: 1

    The key issues that have stopped my from getting a 3d printer are the following. (which most of these issues are with affordable models)
    1. Reliability. For one that is priced where I can afford it, they all seem to have issues with reliability, things getting clogged, and failed tries.
    2. Resolution. I still kinda wish I could have 3d printed something without all the "scan lines"
    3. Color and Material. I would love to be able to have 2 or 3 different colors in a print, also perhaps having a mixture of some material. Such as a solder or some sort of medal for electrical conductivity, or more rubbery filaments for things that need to be gripped, or more stable.
    4. Price. They are affordable models, but I just can't see using them except for some toys. and perhaps a replacement part or two, but still not worth the price.

    --
    If something is so important that you feel the need to post it on the internet... It probably isn't that important.
    1. Re:Speed is the least of my consern. by hipp5 · · Score: 1

      1. Reliability. For one that is priced where I can afford it, they all seem to have issues with reliability, things getting clogged, and failed tries.

      Yes, the hobby printers do take a lot of tinkering. That's half the fun though.

      2. Resolution. I still kinda wish I could have 3d printed something without all the "scan lines"

      Resin printers solve this. The Anycubic Photon is sub-$500. Downsides are smaller build area, consumables cost about twice as much, and there's more of a process in terms of curing and cleanup.

      3. Color and Material. I would love to be able to have 2 or 3 different colors in a print, also perhaps having a mixture of some material. Such as a solder or some sort of medal for electrical conductivity, or more rubbery filaments for things that need to be gripped, or more stable.

      You can print with dual heads for two colours, or there are now hobby printers that will print multiple colours by retracting one filament and feeding another. Downside is that you can end up with a lot of wastage because the head needs to be purged with each colour change.

      There is also some variety in materials. Flexible, rubbery materials are definitely doable. There are also filaments that are plastic but have wood or metallic fill. True metal printing is way beyond hobby printers and may always be beyond them. For that you should order from Shapeways or another such service.

      4. Price. They are affordable models, but I just can't see using them except for some toys. and perhaps a replacement part or two, but still not worth the price.

      Some hobby filament printers are sub-$300 and they produce very good prints (though need some tinkering as previously mentioned). They're great for toys and household fixes. As a hobbiest you won't do much more than that though.

    2. Re:Speed is the least of my consern. by JaredOfEuropa · · Score: 1

      They're getting better. I hadn't look at 3D printing a few years, but recently saw one in action at a friend's. You still get the scan lines, but the printer was apparently pretty reliable and had a print head with 5 filaments so you can do color or different materials too. And it wasn't that expensive (it was a Prusa 3D printer)

      What's stopping me is the 3D modelling part. Maybe I just need to dive in.

      --
      If construction was anything like programming, an incorrectly fitted lock would bring down the entire building...
    3. Re:Speed is the least of my consern. by WolfgangVL · · Score: 1

      The key issues that have stopped my from getting a 3d printer are the following. (which most of these issues are with affordable models)
      1. Reliability. For one that is priced where I can afford it, they all seem to have issues with reliability, things getting clogged, and failed tries.

      Cant argue there. I spend equal time workingon/tuning/upgrading my fleet of printers as they spend actually building parts. It's just part of the hobby. You can spend 100k+ for industrial grade printers with sealed filament cans and service plans to get around this, but that's not cost effective.

      2. Resolution. I still kinda wish I could have 3d printed something without all the "scan lines"

      Here you have options. You can print at a very low resolution (layer height) and they almost vanish at the cost of print speed, you can vapor polish a few different materials, or you can jump into the resin printer game, but that comes with it's own neat peaks and valleys.

      3. Color and Material. I would love to be able to have 2 or 3 different colors in a print, also perhaps having a mixture of some material. Such as a solder or some sort of medal for electrical conductivity, or more rubbery filaments for things that need to be gripped, or more stable.

      Everything you're talking about here is on the market at pretty affordable price points. Some of it is a little "hacky" though. While I don't usually praise Makerbot, the replicator 2x does dual color printing pretty effortlessly as long as your ok with processing the models for dual material. There are hot ends that do on the fly mixing, and I've seen but never used printers that take 4+ materials at once.

      4. Price. They are affordable models, but I just can't see using them except for some toys. and perhaps a replacement part or two, but still not worth the price.

      Everything is relative as far as affordability. 1k-3k seems to be the sweet spot, but I regularly pick up broken printers of around $100 second hand. They take less than 100 the repair, and flip at a pretty nice profit. It helps that I've got all the tools and understanding already, but the community around 3d printing is super helpful and passionate. Admittedly, I make a ton of knick-knacks and neatoes, but the cosplayers keep my fleet printing cheap plastic for 6 months out of the year, I have a few artists that come with specific requests. Being able to print replacement parts sounds kinda meh until you start actually doing it.

      --
      You are being ripped off every second of every day, so that advertisers can help rip you off even more tomorrow.
    4. Re:Speed is the least of my consern. by PhrostyMcByte · · Score: 1

      1. Once you get to know a printer and dial it in, it can be fairly reliable, but yea, it's not 100% and not something I'd recommend to anyone who's afraid of taking things apart.

      2. Most cheap printers can do 0.08mm layer height. At that height they feel rough but you can't see the layers unless you go looking for them.

      3. You can't print solder but there are conductive PLAs and rubbery filaments. Check out the Mosaic Palette, which lets you print more or less flawlessly from 4 spools.

      4. Cost gets you mainly two things: reliability and larger build surfaces. Quality stays about the same, though print speed can improve a little bit.

    5. Re:Speed is the least of my consern. by Kavonte · · Score: 1

      It sounds like you're disappointed that 3D printers aren't Star Trek replicators.

      Everyone else has already made good points, so I'll stick to what no one else has said:

      I think it's important to realize that they aren't the Star Trek replicators that a lot of enthusiast want to act like they are. They're tools, like a milling machine or a table saw. To make the best of them you have to learn to use them, learn what they're capable of, and what they're good for.

      The projects I'm most proud of are the ones that just use some 3D printed parts with other materials where those other materials make more sense than 3D printed parts. Unfortunately a lot of what you'll see people building is 100% 3D printed and so it's hard to get a sense of how genuinely useful it is to be able to make small custom plastic parts for a project.

      The fact that so many people think 3D printers are replicators means that a lot of parts you'll find online are garbage and essentially unprintable. 3D printers work best when you're designing parts that could have been extruded, and then there's some tricks you can use to get non-extruded shapes, but if you go at it thinking you'll be able to print literally any shape then you're going to be disappointed with a lot of failures.

      Cost can be very cheap, like the model I have is down to $140 on eBay now. ...and it's not really all that much different from more expensive printers. They're all melting plastic and shoving it through a nozzle to smear it against an existing part. Indeed, just the other day I saw a $500 printer someone bought and was surprised to see that its design addresses none of the most problematic aspects of the design of my $140 printer. For the most part, the more expensive printers are just designed to look better in order to justify their price.

      3D printers are great if you like to build stuff and want another way to produce parts for your projects, and I'd definitely better off having one because it lets me build things I'd never have been able to build without it, but if you're just expecting a replicator, then I would recommend that you don't buy one because you will be disappointed. They're a tool, not a device for consumers to use to consume.

      Also, what people say about them paying for themselves, that's basically untrue. You're going to spend so much more time building stuff that any savings you might get by printing stuff rather than buying it will be eaten up by what you spend to create projects you wouldn't have created if you didn't have the printer.

    6. Re:Speed is the least of my consern. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Everything you're talking about here is on the market at pretty affordable price points. Some of it is a little "hacky" though. While I don't usually praise Makerbot, the replicator 2x does dual color printing pretty effortlessly as long as your ok with processing the models for dual material. There are hot ends that do on the fly mixing, and I've seen but never used printers that take 4+ materials at once.

      Switching hotends are much more viable than the mixing hotends currently available. Yes, they are different.

      Switching hotends only ever have one filament (color or material) in the hot zone at a time, retracting it entirely to change to a different filament (color or material).

      Mixing hotends, on the other hand, can push two or more filaments (color or material) through the hotzone at the same time, but they're notorious for clogging up because retracting filaments tend to draw molten filament back up the PTFE tubes where it subsequently solidifies and blocks further usage. Because of the design of mixing hotends its almost impossible to do a "cold pull" on them to clean them out properly, so a clogged mixing hotend is almost always a throw-away deal.

      In my experience you're generally much better off having separate hotends for each filament (color or material) even though it increases mechanical complexity, e.g.: dual nozzle or quad nozzle hotends, or even tool changers. You can pay a small penalty to build a wipe/ooze wall around your print, but they're much faster and much more economical than the prime towers required for switching/mixing hotends.

    7. Re:Speed is the least of my consern. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      3. You can't print solder

      Sure you can. Have you tried? Sn-Ag-Cu solder melts at 217C which is well within the capabilities of even most Chinese 3D printers.

  14. The actual innovation is selective curing by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Resin printers have one big problem which is preventing the bottom layer that's being cured from sticking to the bottom of the resin vessel. Traditionally either there's a thin layer of air, some chemical coating or other method from preventing adhesion in the bottom. Additionally, the resin is then shaken between layers to loosen any semi-adhered parts of the print etc.

    The Innovation in this article is that not only is light used to cure specific parts of the print, light is also used to PREVENT curing of the resin at the bottom of the vessel and cure it further up in the process. That is the innovation that allows much faster prints even compared to the now ubiquitous resin printers that have problems with the bottom layer sticking.

  15. OLO Kickstarter by sanosuke001 · · Score: 1

    There's already been a Kickstarter for such a device: https://www.kickstarter.com/pr.... I backed it and its been a few years but they seem like they're close to shipping the majority of devices.

    --
    -SaNo
    1. Re:OLO Kickstarter by sanosuke001 · · Score: 1

      FYI, they renamed to ONO as the OLO name was already taken IIRC.

      For more info, as Of Jan 13th they were getting ready to ship out a chunk of devices. They use your smartphone as the light source with a reservoir of light-sensitive resin for printing.

      --
      -SaNo
    2. Re:OLO Kickstarter by gmiller123456 · · Score: 1

      I backed a similar one called the Peach Printer. It's only been 6 years since it started, and 3 years since the last update. I'm starting to worry a little.

  16. Small metal parts are affordable too using wax by raymorris · · Score: 1

    > If its larger metal parts you need, you could get a wax printer then send the mold off to be cast.

    I paid about $20-25 all-in for a custom designed metal ring (jewelry). I believe it used 3D print of the wax, then that can be cast in steel, gold, silver - whatever metal you want.

    My understanding is that an object twice as big would NOT be twice as expensive. There are costs to just handling the order. Whether $20-25 is affordable depends on the application, I suppose.

  17. It may be fast, by nuckfuts · · Score: 1

    but judging by the video, the resolution looks terrible.

  18. Congratulations you've invented... by easyTree · · Score: 1
  19. Removing scan lines with cheap post-processing. by Ungrounded+Lightning · · Score: 1

    2. Resolution. I still kinda wish I could have 3d printed something without all the "scan lines"

    A couple years ago I saw a 3-D printed part post-treated to deal with that, along with strength issues from the filament passes not fully bounding.

    Printer user had post-processed it by exposing it to acetone vapor for a while, then letting the solvent evaporate for a day or so. Used a cheap rice cooker. (OUTDOORS, because, in addition to toxicity issues, generating acetone vapor with a heating appliance indoors is a recipe for a BIG fire if there's a spark.)

    If I understand what happened correctly:
      - The vapor first penetrated the remaining spaces between the partially fused filaments.
      - Then it dissolved into the surface, softening it.
      - The filaments then pulled together by capillary attraction (and perhaps also vacuum).
      - As this was happening, the remaining acetone dissolved into the filaments, leaving nothing to prevent the gaps from completely disappearing.

    The part went from a fragile nest of partially-fused plastic strings to a gorgeous, rock-solid, shaped chunk of the basic plastic, with a mirror finish. Shrank very slightly and sharp edges were slightly rounded, but you can pre-distort to handle that.

    Once done you have to let the solvent have plenty of time to diffuse out, or assembling the pieces may cause them to bond.

    The material was black and I think it was ABS. I'm not doing 3-D printing so I don't have personal experience, but you should be able to find instructions and details (like timing and what material works) on the web.

    --
    Bantam Dominique roosters crow a four-note song. Once you've heard it as "Happy BIRTHday" you can't NOT hear it that way
  20. There's an easier way... by AJWM · · Score: 1

    If this printing process used only the blue light, it would immediately harden the first bit of resin it encounters in the basin -- the stuff just inside the glass.

    So you shine the blue light at the surface, and slowly lower a platform into the resin. A technique which I'm sure is already in use. (It's analogous to selective laser sintering ... hard to shine a laser through metal powder.)

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    -- Alastair
  21. Meanwhile by Ol+Olsoc · · Score: 1
    The really interesting thing on the page is the 3D bioprinter that makes a spinal cord implant in 1.6 seconds.

    https://spectrum.ieee.org/the-...

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    The shepherds did so well protecting the flock that the sheep no longer believed that wolves existed.
  22. Blue LED Light by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Tooth fillings now are hardened by hitting them with blue light for a few seconds. Probably similar materials to this.

  23. old by EkriirkE · · Score: 1

    I thought these had been around for ages, decades maybe?

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