OK - I have not read the article but I will point out that a century old kerosene refrigerator uses a wick and not a great deal of fuel plus a bucked of water to handle expansion and condensation.
Early kerosene refrigerators used a single cycle sytem where the ammonia boiled or evaporated as it was absorbed into water. To get the ammonia back and the water, the cold side was stuck in the bucket of water and the room temprature water chamber was heated by the kerosene flame to seperate the ammonia from the water. Do a Google search on "iceballs ammonia" for a version that still entertain people today who build their own. Before you build your own, remember this runs on high pressure during regeneration, and uses ammonia, a relatively hazardous material.
Simple day/night tempratures will not complete the regeneration cycle. The temprature is too low. Even though very little kerosene is burned in those refrigerators, the burning kerosene did provide the required tempratures to complete the regeneration cycle.
After looking at the diagram, it is evident the math is not done. A few things come to mind. The most glaring is the wind turbine. Anybody you know of put a turbine in the fireplace flue to get electricity from the heat draft? This is a draft with a large heat change. How much draft do you expect to get from the day/night differential. Don't expect enough juice to power the water pump in a water cooled PC.
Getting the heat to provide the high pressure ammonia to feed the expansion valve is also a problem. Time to do the math.
Instead of trying to get high pressure ammonia, look up continious cycle absorption cycle refrigeration. The key is using vapor pressure to your advantage. Day/night cycles are not going to provide the requried amount of pressurised liquid ammonia for the job.
Study and learn continious cycle absorption cycle refrigeration then redesign and eliminate the expansion valve, & turbine. Add a light weight inhert gas to the entire system to make distilation of ammonia possible and stop uncontrolled reasorption into water.
Etch, through Kino, fills in the last thing I was missing - easy video editing.
Do you have a solution for my wife who has to use IE to run remote desktop to telecomute? She does not have a choice in the work desktop environment, so suggestions for home only please.
Install a printer from the active directory isn't super easy, but I ca'tn see a Linux product comparing.
Hint, Hawking Tech print server. Install as IPP port. Simple in my SOHO network for both a HP Laser and an Inkjet.
Everyting can print to the printers from the Ubuntu box to the Windows boxes of all flavors from 98, ME, 2K and XP. Only the older verions of Windows that don't support IPP need the driver provided by Hawking.
They won't lock it down, get security updates, or do anything else.
Just installing something else is a big step. Install Windows XP and every user is an admin able to install every exploit including SONY DRM rootkits from a music CD.
Installing Ubuntu on the other hand makes all additional users not an admin and the first user runs as a regular user who has to SU and put in the admin password to screw anything up. It won't run the Windows programs on music CD's.
One is much more secure out of the box by default. Viva la difference.
once again the solution is to drop everything and either rebuy hardware or hope that linsux supports your current hardware.
Thanks for the FUD that your hardware might not work. Take the time to run a live CD to see what doesn't work. My machine had everything work except a HP flatbed scanner I bought at Goodwill. Big deal. I replaced an under $10 scanner with another under $10 scanner. The Cannon scanner works fine.
Everything worked without downloading drivers unlike a Windows install. Even my HP printers on Hawking printservers worked fine with no need for installing software. The printer servers installed as IPP printer ports. (Internet Printing Protocol)
Good point. We know Windows is heavely exploited. The Nix boxes and Mac boxes simply haven't been tested yet. At the current state, I'll take my chances with the untested and possibly exploitable instead of the heavly exploited option. Later when the testing starts, and if it shows heavy exploitation, I can then re-evaluate my options for something not exploited on a massive scale. Thanks for highlighting the possiblilities and reminding me to keep the guard up.
Microsoft would love everyone to think that OSX is just as vulnerable as Windows is
A few people are running older unpatched versions of Windows simply because WGA killed their unauthorized upgrade. I know someone in that boat. (Not me, I upgraded to Ubuntu)
For those with that problem, there is a fix. How about (drum roll) more than one PC. Fit the PC's to the tasks at hand. For web browsing, use a secure PC and browser. For running required MS apps, use a MS box but keep it off the net.
My Desktop is running Ubuntu. My laptop is running Win 2K. When I travel, I take the laptop and run a live CD for web.
The easy way to get AOL to cancel is to tell them you are now running a server and it needs to fetch POP3 mail. When they tell you their walled garden e-mail doesn't support POP3, tell them you have to change providers. Worked for us. Your milage may vary.
And things like "the CD must be in the drive while the program is running" should never be in the manual. It's these details that make installed applications not work while on the road is a reason to know the software is way sub-par due to a brain dead programmer.
Learn the ropes between anti-piracy and anti-usability.
After a software suite/program gets past a certain number of users it gains a momentum of it's own. Once this happens, the quality of the product, or next version, or upgrade ceases to matter (at least in less than a timescale measured in years) as too many people have been locked in.
Not always. I had a promo copy of Light Factory. It had a bad problem of requiring MS SQL which ran after the program closed and left ports open. I complained loudly. They fixed it with the next upgrade (free) but in the process upgraded the registration process to lock a copy to the hardware. In a lighting application for public places, not haveing a hot spare is not an option.
I again complained and let them know why I switched to Freestyler.
Voytera decided to lock their piano tutor to requiring the CD in the drive to run much like a copy protected game. I also let them know that was the reason I'm not buying anything else from them. They used to be a good company with their Audiostation, but in todays world of running more than one program and having a large hard drive, I simply don't have the space to have every applications CD in the drive at the same time.
Software developers please note.. Piracy is not the only enemy. Competition exists and the products may work better than your product when yours is restricted. Crippled products don't sell well.
They mentioned the need for Windows Media player to limit the number of burns. They also mentioned the need for special blank DVD's to record standard CSS disks. The terms of CSS need to change to permit burning CSS enabled content. There are a few hurdles to cross of which most are political, not technical.
From the article;
With Qflix - and its studio-backed copy-protection system - consumers should have more options. But they'll need new blank DVDs and compatible DVD burners to use it.
and
Sonic Solutions Inc. is introducing on Thursday the Qflix system for adding a standard digital lock to DVDs burned in a computer or a retail kiosk.
The lock, known as "content scrambling system," or CSS, is backed by the studios, TV networks and other content creators and comes standard on prerecorded DVDs today. All DVD players come equipped with a key that fits the lock and allows for playback.
It may be the only place permitting a real burn is in a Kiosk to prevent end users from acquiring the CSS enabled blank CDR's and drives.
It looks like it will be priced to not undercut traditional DVD sales by price fixing just like I-Tunes.
An unregulated market quickly becomes a cartel. Only regulated markets remain free.
You have that backwards. The music distribution business is highly regulated by copyright law. That has allowed the RIAA cartel to exist. Without the regulation, Napster would have finished the cartel long ago.
I'm deaf, so I've wired up my house lights so they'd flash on sounds such as doorbells, telephone, etc.
My advice, don't bother with CF's for these applications. The duty cycle is so low the averaged power consumption is exceedingly tiny. CF would never get warm enough to evaporate the mecury so they would have a short life. Short cycles are very hard on the balast as it spends too much percent wise trying to strike the lamp. CF's don't last long as a phone flasher.
The LEDs also produced more lumens per watt power consumption as well as used the lest amount of energy to turn on, whereas the traditional florescents had a 7x power spike for turn on, and the traditionals had a 1.5x spike, even the CFL's had a power spike. Everything says to use LED lights now.
Unfortunately we live in a market economy. The cost is a real factor. My average lamp is 900 Lumens. My 1 watt flashlight is only 32 lumens.
If I live another 30 years in my present home, what is the cost to outfit a 6 bedroom 3 bedroom home with LED lamps and will I have any savings over CF bulbs I now have installed?
At 5 lamps in the kitchen overhead, 2 under the microwave, 5 in the dining room, 4 in the living room, 15 in bathrooms, 12 in bedrooms, 6 in porch and drive, 4 in the laundry, 2 in the hallway, and 5 in the rec room. Average size 60 watt equivelant. Total numbers of lamps is 60 for a total of 54,000 lumens needed.
To make matters of finding a proper replacement, many LED's are not rated in Lumens but intensity. I don't need a spot of light on the celing above the light. I want the room lit up. Remember there are aproximately 1,000 Mcd to a Lumen. Using that compare this bulb to a typical 14 watt CF lamp.
I don't think a 16 lumen lamp is a direct replacement for a 14 watt CF lamp of nearly 900 lumens.
The LEDs also produced more lumens per watt power consumption
http://members.misty.com/don/lede.html "The better usual modern white LEDs (as of September 2006) produce about 29-45 lumens of light per watt of electricity
"while the fluorescent produces over 50 lumens per watt"
The high effeciency LED's just are not on the market yet for most white LED's.
I'll stick with CF's as the additional cost of LED's don't yet produce a measurable savings. I have been watching the lumens/watt and cost race for some time. It's getting close, but the average modern white LED is still not as effecient as a typical CF lamp.
A laboratory prototype of a white LED achieving 150 lumens/watt has been announced on 12/20/2006.
Wake me when these are on the shelf at a competitive price.
Do beware of some of the crappy brands, e.g. I've had bad luck with Lights of America
Ditto on that. When I put in a new bulb, I use a marker and put the install date on the bulb. I have no Lights of America bulb that lasted more than 24 months. I've had good luck with Commercial Electric bulbs from Home Depot.
You can use a 100W incandescent that lasts (say) 1000 hours; ($1) a 23W CFL (compact fluorescent) bulb that lasts (say) 10,000 hours; ($10) a 5-9W LED that lasts 130,000 hours. ($40+)
Care to post the energy cost for the above selections? List them in Lumens/Watt. Next compare the color purity. A Low Pressure Sodium Vapor lamp is quite effecient, but due to the turn on time and spectral response, I'm not installing them for interior lighting any time soon.
Last time I checked CF's beat LED's in the Lumens/Watt race.
My only current complaint is that they don't play nice with dimmers.
Visit Home Depot. They have a larger selection and include dimmable and hard to find sizes including candelabra bulbs which are dimmable. A set of 8 3 watt dimmable bulbs in my decrative chandelier is a nice touch.
Slashdot Mirror
OK - I have not read the article but I will point out that a century old kerosene refrigerator uses a wick and not a great deal of fuel plus a bucked of water to handle expansion and condensation.
t ml
Early kerosene refrigerators used a single cycle sytem where the ammonia boiled or evaporated as it was absorbed into water. To get the ammonia back and the water, the cold side was stuck in the bucket of water and the room temprature water chamber was heated by the kerosene flame to seperate the ammonia from the water. Do a Google search on "iceballs ammonia" for a version that still entertain people today who build their own.
Before you build your own, remember this runs on high pressure during regeneration, and uses ammonia, a relatively hazardous material.
http://www.ggw.org/~cac/IcyBall/crosley_icyball.h
Simple day/night tempratures will not complete the regeneration cycle. The temprature is too low. Even though very little kerosene is burned in those refrigerators, the burning kerosene did provide the required tempratures to complete the regeneration cycle.
After looking at the diagram, it is evident the math is not done. A few things come to mind. The most glaring is the wind turbine. Anybody you know of put a turbine in the fireplace flue to get electricity from the heat draft? This is a draft with a large heat change. How much draft do you expect to get from the day/night differential. Don't expect enough juice to power the water pump in a water cooled PC.
r igeration-and-air-conditioning--pid4254146/
Getting the heat to provide the high pressure ammonia to feed the expansion valve is also a problem. Time to do the math.
A good place to start is Modern Refrigeration and Air Conditioning.
http://www.bizrate.com/technologybooks/modern-ref
Instead of trying to get high pressure ammonia, look up continious cycle absorption cycle refrigeration. The key is using vapor pressure to your advantage. Day/night cycles are not going to provide the requried amount of pressurised liquid ammonia for the job.
Study and learn continious cycle absorption cycle refrigeration then redesign and eliminate the expansion valve, & turbine. Add a light weight inhert gas to the entire system to make distilation of ammonia possible and stop uncontrolled reasorption into water.
Etch, through Kino, fills in the last thing I was missing - easy video editing.
Do you have a solution for my wife who has to use IE to run remote desktop to telecomute? She does not have a choice in the work desktop environment, so suggestions for home only please.
pay double for their windows licences
What Windows Licenses? Sounds like they are migrating.
Install a printer from the active directory isn't super easy, but I ca'tn see a Linux product comparing.
Hint, Hawking Tech print server. Install as IPP port. Simple in my SOHO network for both a HP Laser and an Inkjet.
Everyting can print to the printers from the Ubuntu box to the Windows boxes of all flavors from 98, ME, 2K and XP. Only the older verions of Windows that don't support IPP need the driver provided by Hawking.
An analysis of hacker attacks on online servers
Please don't compare Windows XP boxes online as servers and Linux boxes online as servers.
The topic is Desktop machines. Care to compare the number of XP boxes and Linux boxes in any Botnet?
They won't lock it down, get security updates, or do anything else.
Just installing something else is a big step. Install Windows XP and every user is an admin able to install every exploit including SONY DRM rootkits from a music CD.
Installing Ubuntu on the other hand makes all additional users not an admin and the first user runs as a regular user who has to SU and put in the admin password to screw anything up. It won't run the Windows programs on music CD's.
One is much more secure out of the box by default. Viva la difference.
once again the solution is to drop everything and either rebuy hardware or hope that linsux supports your current hardware.
Thanks for the FUD that your hardware might not work. Take the time to run a live CD to see what doesn't work. My machine had everything work except a HP flatbed scanner I bought at Goodwill. Big deal. I replaced an under $10 scanner with another under $10 scanner. The Cannon scanner works fine.
Everything worked without downloading drivers unlike a Windows install. Even my HP printers on Hawking printservers worked fine with no need for installing software. The printer servers installed as IPP printer ports. (Internet Printing Protocol)
The essentials, with emphasis added:
Good point. We know Windows is heavely exploited. The Nix boxes and Mac boxes simply haven't been tested yet. At the current state, I'll take my chances with the untested and possibly exploitable instead of the heavly exploited option. Later when the testing starts, and if it shows heavy exploitation, I can then re-evaluate my options for something not exploited on a massive scale. Thanks for highlighting the possiblilities and reminding me to keep the guard up.
Microsoft would love everyone to think that OSX is just as vulnerable as Windows is
A few people are running older unpatched versions of Windows simply because WGA killed their unauthorized upgrade. I know someone in that boat. (Not me, I upgraded to Ubuntu)
Not use Microsoft? That's unpossible!
For those with that problem, there is a fix. How about (drum roll) more than one PC. Fit the PC's to the tasks at hand. For web browsing, use a secure PC and browser. For running required MS apps, use a MS box but keep it off the net.
My Desktop is running Ubuntu. My laptop is running Win 2K. When I travel, I take the laptop and run a live CD for web.
The easy way to get AOL to cancel is to tell them you are now running a server and it needs to fetch POP3 mail. When they tell you their walled garden e-mail doesn't support POP3, tell them you have to change providers. Worked for us. Your milage may vary.
sayings like RTFM have been coined for a reason.
And things like "the CD must be in the drive while the program is running" should never be in the manual. It's these details that make installed applications not work while on the road is a reason to know the software is way sub-par due to a brain dead programmer.
Learn the ropes between anti-piracy and anti-usability.
After a software suite/program gets past a certain number of users it gains a momentum of it's own. Once this happens, the quality of the product, or next version, or upgrade ceases to matter (at least in less than a timescale measured in years) as too many people have been locked in.
Not always. I had a promo copy of Light Factory. It had a bad problem of requiring MS SQL which ran after the program closed and left ports open. I complained loudly. They fixed it with the next upgrade (free) but in the process upgraded the registration process to lock a copy to the hardware. In a lighting application for public places, not haveing a hot spare is not an option.
I again complained and let them know why I switched to Freestyler.
Voytera decided to lock their piano tutor to requiring the CD in the drive to run much like a copy protected game. I also let them know that was the reason I'm not buying anything else from them. They used to be a good company with their Audiostation, but in todays world of running more than one program and having a large hard drive, I simply don't have the space to have every applications CD in the drive at the same time.
Software developers please note.. Piracy is not the only enemy. Competition exists and the products may work better than your product when yours is restricted. Crippled products don't sell well.
They mentioned the need for Windows Media player to limit the number of burns. They also mentioned the need for special blank DVD's to record standard CSS disks. The terms of CSS need to change to permit burning CSS enabled content. There are a few hurdles to cross of which most are political, not technical.
From the article;
With Qflix - and its studio-backed copy-protection system - consumers should have more options. But they'll need new blank DVDs and compatible DVD burners to use it.
and
Sonic Solutions Inc. is introducing on Thursday the Qflix system for adding a standard digital lock to DVDs burned in a computer or a retail kiosk.
The lock, known as "content scrambling system," or CSS, is backed by the studios, TV networks and other content creators and comes standard on prerecorded DVDs today. All DVD players come equipped with a key that fits the lock and allows for playback.
It may be the only place permitting a real burn is in a Kiosk to prevent end users from acquiring the CSS enabled blank CDR's and drives.
It looks like it will be priced to not undercut traditional DVD sales by price fixing just like I-Tunes.
And without regulation, Napster would've replaced one cartel with another long ago.
Along with Beareshare, Limewire, Kazza, AllofMP3, Yahoo, Google... It would no longer be a monopoly run by a cartel.
An unregulated market quickly becomes a cartel. Only regulated markets remain free.
You have that backwards. The music distribution business is highly regulated by copyright law. That has allowed the RIAA cartel to exist. Without the regulation, Napster would have finished the cartel long ago.
I'm deaf, so I've wired up my house lights so they'd flash on sounds such as doorbells, telephone, etc.
My advice, don't bother with CF's for these applications. The duty cycle is so low the averaged power consumption is exceedingly tiny. CF would never get warm enough to evaporate the mecury so they would have a short life. Short cycles are very hard on the balast as it spends too much percent wise trying to strike the lamp. CF's don't last long as a phone flasher.
I work at Lowe's, you insensitive claud!
Lowe's is on the other side of town. Time and gas money count. Are the bulbs cheaper enough at Lowe's to justify the time and expense to fetch them?
The LEDs also produced more lumens per watt power consumption as well as used the lest amount of energy to turn on, whereas the traditional florescents had a 7x power spike for turn on, and the traditionals had a 1.5x spike, even the CFL's had a power spike. Everything says to use LED lights now.
- Ceiling-Fans__16000-MCD-P60-48-White-LED-110-V-Edi son-Type-Light-Bulb_W0QQitemZ220015435889QQihZ012Q QddnZHomeQ20Q26Q20GardenQQadnZLightingQ20Q26Q20Cei lingQ20FansQQcmdZExpressItem
l ighting.html
Unfortunately we live in a market economy. The cost is a real factor. My average lamp is 900 Lumens. My 1 watt flashlight is only 32 lumens.
If I live another 30 years in my present home, what is the cost to outfit a 6 bedroom 3 bedroom home with LED lamps and will I have any savings over CF bulbs I now have installed?
LED lamps are about 20 cents / Lumen.
Refrence PDF alert. http://www.aceee.org/pubs/a042_l11.pdf
At 5 lamps in the kitchen overhead, 2 under the microwave, 5 in the dining room, 4 in the living room, 15 in bathrooms, 12 in bedrooms, 6 in porch and drive, 4 in the laundry, 2 in the hallway, and 5 in the rec room. Average size 60 watt equivelant. Total numbers of lamps is 60 for a total of 54,000 lumens needed.
To make matters of finding a proper replacement, many LED's are not rated in Lumens but intensity. I don't need a spot of light on the celing above the light. I want the room lit up. Remember there are aproximately 1,000 Mcd to a Lumen. Using that compare this bulb to a typical 14 watt CF lamp.
http://item.express.ebay.com/Home-Garden_Lighting
I don't think a 16 lumen lamp is a direct replacement for a 14 watt CF lamp of nearly 900 lumens.
The LEDs also produced more lumens per watt power consumption
http://members.misty.com/don/lede.html
"The better usual modern white LEDs (as of September 2006) produce about 29-45 lumens of light per watt of electricity
http://hes.lbl.gov/hes/makingithappen/no_regrets/
"while the fluorescent produces over 50 lumens per watt"
The high effeciency LED's just are not on the market yet for most white LED's.
I'll stick with CF's as the additional cost of LED's don't yet produce a measurable savings. I have been watching the lumens/watt and cost race for some time. It's getting close, but the average modern white LED is still not as effecient as a typical CF lamp.
A laboratory prototype of a white LED achieving 150 lumens/watt has been announced on 12/20/2006.
Wake me when these are on the shelf at a competitive price.
Do beware of some of the crappy brands, e.g. I've had bad luck with Lights of America
Ditto on that. When I put in a new bulb, I use a marker and put the install date on the bulb. I have no Lights of America bulb that lasted more than 24 months. I've had good luck with Commercial Electric bulbs from Home Depot.
CFL are $ 2.50 regular bulbs are $0.50.
Shop around. I seldom pay over $1.00 for a CF bulb anymore except specialty bulbs such as colors, black light, dimmable, and candelabra.
Unfortunately, the electronic adapters that screw into a standard light socket last about 6 months before dying.
Time to check your electrical supply for noise and stability. Do incandescent lamps dim when the refrigerator starts? You may have power problems.
You can use a 100W incandescent that lasts (say) 1000 hours; ($1)
a 23W CFL (compact fluorescent) bulb that lasts (say) 10,000 hours; ($10)
a 5-9W LED that lasts 130,000 hours. ($40+)
Care to post the energy cost for the above selections? List them in Lumens/Watt.
Next compare the color purity. A Low Pressure Sodium Vapor lamp is quite effecient, but due to the turn on time and spectral response, I'm not installing them for interior lighting any time soon.
Last time I checked CF's beat LED's in the Lumens/Watt race.
My only current complaint is that they don't play nice with dimmers.
Visit Home Depot. They have a larger selection and include dimmable and hard to find sizes including candelabra bulbs which are dimmable. A set of 8 3 watt dimmable bulbs in my decrative chandelier is a nice touch.
Power wise it replaced 8 25 watt bulbs.