I'm not current on models, but I am an experienced bike mechanic and sales guy. I can make some suggestions you're free to ignore. : )
At first blush, your budget seems a little on the low side, if you're serious about riding to work several days a week. Upgrading a bicycle is fairly expensive with respect to just buying what you will need in the first place, so shop with your future (2-4 years) needs in mind.
Having said that, when you catch the bug, nobody's going to be able to stop you buying a new ride. : )
The first thing you need to think about is user interface. You want to get a bicycle that is not just comfortable for five minutes in the parking lot, but is comfortable for an hour (or so) a day. That means that I would get a good pair of cycling shorts, gloves, and shoes (in that order of importance). Look for a saddle that is wide (or narrow) enough to support the points of your pelvis, your "sit bones". Avoid excess padding, as it tends to chafe. Thin gel or closed-cell foam pads on well-designed nylon shells are my personal preference for saddles.
Then you need to decide whether you're more comfortable on a bike with drop handlebars or upright, flat handlebars. There are advantages and disadvantages both ways. As a general rule, drop handlebars afford more hand positions, allowing you to move around to avoid hot spots on your hands. They also put more of your weight on your hands, typically 30-40% of your body weight. This is a good idea for longer-distance rides, but many people feel it is awkward at first. You will want to make sure that the bars are about as wide as your shoulders. The ideal position is that your arms remain parallel to one another when you're holding the brake hoods or the dropped sections.
Lots of people prefer flat handlebars. Especially with a pair of bar-end extensions, the problems with hand fatigue go away. With a wider distance between your hands, the bike feels more stable and controllable. Typically, the position is a bit more upright than with drop bars.
In either case, you've got a lot of flexibility for setting up your body position by switching out stems and handlebars.
My experience with inexperienced cyclists is that they feel more comfortable with a lower saddle, and a more upright position, than is actually ideal for long distance riding. Saddle position is easy to adjust, of course. When you have the ball of your foot over the pedal axle, and are seated, you want your leg to be at almost full extension. You should be able to move your knee backwards, dropping your heel and lock your knee, without straining or rising off the saddle. This will probably feel precarious. If you're very uncomfortable, drop the saddle an inch and raise it a little bit every few days until you are where you need to be.
If you're going to be commuting daily, the first thing you'll want on your bike is a good, sturdy wheelset with narrow(ish) high-pressure tires. Aluminum rims are pretty standard nowadays, and you want to make sure that the bike you pick has good ones. If you select a mountain-style bike, get some high pressure road tires. Commuting on knobbies is noisy and inefficient. For a road bike, get a middle-width to wide tire. Racers use tires 18-23mm. 23-27 will be more appropriate for commuting.
Make sure you're getting a good frameset. In your price range, you'll certainly be looking at steel frames, with perhaps some aluminum bikes as well. You'll notice that shifter and brake models are stratified by price. Typically, an aluminum bike will have components that are one or two levels "lower" than a steel bike for the same price.
As far as componentry goes, any bike you buy is probably going to shift and brake really really reallyreally well. More expensive components tend to be lighter and sturdier, but this is not a huge concern for a commuter or recreational cyclist. Spend your money to get a good frame and wheels, and appropriate clothing. I feel that a bike with derailleurs is simpler to maintain than those with internally-geared hubs, although those geared hubs have come a long way from my dad's three-speed.
If you're going to be carrying groceries, get a rear-mounted rack and a set of panniers or open-top fabric bags. This setup is a lot more comfortable and safer than carrying a big backpack.
Rules of thumb:
1) Go to a bike store. Do not buy from a department store. You'll pay more at the bike store than you will (say) buying a bike online, but the experience of the sales staff in helping you evaluate your options will more than pay for itself. If you do not feel the staff is being helpful, go to another bike shop.
2) Take time to get the bike fitted to yourself. Most good shops will swap out handlebars and stems and (sometimes) saddles, at your request. You might pay a little upcharge if you select a much more expensive part, but the shop should do the labor for free.
3) Don't neglect clothing. A good pair of gloves and shorts will make more difference to your enjoyment of riding your bicycle than spending an extra $100 to get a bike with shinier parts.
4) Toe clips are your friend. They position your foot on the pedal, and allow you to lengthen your power stroke. They are, however, scary as heck the first time you use them. See 5.
5) Shoes and clipless pedals are a very nice upgrade for your bike, and I'd say they're pretty important if you're going to be riding frequently. I feel they're safer than toe clips.
6) Suspension systems are heavy, and will not dramatically improve your riding on the road. Become accustomed to standing over bumps and rough pavement. If you want to ride more aggressively off-road, front suspension is far more important for control. I would not buy a fully sustpended bike that costs less than $800-1000. And, even at that price range, I'd expect the bike to be several pounds heavier than other bikes that cost much less.
7) Carry tools, and know how to use them. You must be able to replace and inflate a tire on the road. I prefer pumps to the C0-2 inflaters. Carry a spare tube and a tube patch kit.
8) Rudimentary bicycle maintenance is very easy, and doesn't require a lot in the way of expensive tools. Adjusting your brakes and shifters are not difficult. Have the bike shop give you a run down of how the systems work.
OK, fair enough, I'm much better at aircraft design than spacecraft, because that's what I'm interested in, but I can say with some assurance that I know a hell of a lot more about stuff that fly the average bear.
In other words, bite me.
Any engineer that doesn't appreciate elegant design isn't a very good engineer.
You might check out the HandEra V330. My mom has one, and it is a pretty sweet piece of hardware. PalmOS, killer high-res screen (with software graffiti area!) No wireless, but it does have both a CF and a SmartMedia slot, so you can have memory and expansion at the same time.
Built in voice recorder, which is a much more useful tool than I'd given it credit for.
OK, let me step back and enjoy the irony of Open Source grognards waiting Apple to write a user interface that's easier for them to understand./me picks a fight... : )
Slashdot Mirror
I'm not current on models, but I am an experienced bike mechanic and sales guy. I can make some suggestions you're free to ignore. : )
At first blush, your budget seems a little on the low side, if you're serious about riding to work several days a week. Upgrading a bicycle is fairly expensive with respect to just buying what you will need in the first place, so shop with your future (2-4 years) needs in mind.
Having said that, when you catch the bug, nobody's going to be able to stop you buying a new ride. : )
The first thing you need to think about is user interface. You want to get a bicycle that is not just comfortable for five minutes in the parking lot, but is comfortable for an hour (or so) a day. That means that I would get a good pair of cycling shorts, gloves, and shoes (in that order of importance). Look for a saddle that is wide (or narrow) enough to support the points of your pelvis, your "sit bones". Avoid excess padding, as it tends to chafe. Thin gel or closed-cell foam pads on well-designed nylon shells are my personal preference for saddles.
Then you need to decide whether you're more comfortable on a bike with drop handlebars or upright, flat handlebars. There are advantages and disadvantages both ways. As a general rule, drop handlebars afford more hand positions, allowing you to move around to avoid hot spots on your hands. They also put more of your weight on your hands, typically 30-40% of your body weight. This is a good idea for longer-distance rides, but many people feel it is awkward at first. You will want to make sure that the bars are about as wide as your shoulders. The ideal position is that your arms remain parallel to one another when you're holding the brake hoods or the dropped sections.
Lots of people prefer flat handlebars. Especially with a pair of bar-end extensions, the problems with hand fatigue go away. With a wider distance between your hands, the bike feels more stable and controllable. Typically, the position is a bit more upright than with drop bars.
In either case, you've got a lot of flexibility for setting up your body position by switching out stems and handlebars.
My experience with inexperienced cyclists is that they feel more comfortable with a lower saddle, and a more upright position, than is actually ideal for long distance riding. Saddle position is easy to adjust, of course. When you have the ball of your foot over the pedal axle, and are seated, you want your leg to be at almost full extension. You should be able to move your knee backwards, dropping your heel and lock your knee, without straining or rising off the saddle. This will probably feel precarious. If you're very uncomfortable, drop the saddle an inch and raise it a little bit every few days until you are where you need to be.
If you're going to be commuting daily, the first thing you'll want on your bike is a good, sturdy wheelset with narrow(ish) high-pressure tires. Aluminum rims are pretty standard nowadays, and you want to make sure that the bike you pick has good ones. If you select a mountain-style bike, get some high pressure road tires. Commuting on knobbies is noisy and inefficient. For a road bike, get a middle-width to wide tire. Racers use tires 18-23mm. 23-27 will be more appropriate for commuting.
Make sure you're getting a good frameset. In your price range, you'll certainly be looking at steel frames, with perhaps some aluminum bikes as well. You'll notice that shifter and brake models are stratified by price. Typically, an aluminum bike will have components that are one or two levels "lower" than a steel bike for the same price.
As far as componentry goes, any bike you buy is probably going to shift and brake really really reallyreally well. More expensive components tend to be lighter and sturdier, but this is not a huge concern for a commuter or recreational cyclist. Spend your money to get a good frame and wheels, and appropriate clothing. I feel that a bike with derailleurs is simpler to maintain than those with internally-geared hubs, although those geared hubs have come a long way from my dad's three-speed.
If you're going to be carrying groceries, get a rear-mounted rack and a set of panniers or open-top fabric bags. This setup is a lot more comfortable and safer than carrying a big backpack.
Rules of thumb:
1) Go to a bike store. Do not buy from a department store. You'll pay more at the bike store than you will (say) buying a bike online, but the experience of the sales staff in helping you evaluate your options will more than pay for itself. If you do not feel the staff is being helpful, go to another bike shop.
2) Take time to get the bike fitted to yourself. Most good shops will swap out handlebars and stems and (sometimes) saddles, at your request. You might pay a little upcharge if you select a much more expensive part, but the shop should do the labor for free.
3) Don't neglect clothing. A good pair of gloves and shorts will make more difference to your enjoyment of riding your bicycle than spending an extra $100 to get a bike with shinier parts.
4) Toe clips are your friend. They position your foot on the pedal, and allow you to lengthen your power stroke. They are, however, scary as heck the first time you use them. See 5.
5) Shoes and clipless pedals are a very nice upgrade for your bike, and I'd say they're pretty important if you're going to be riding frequently. I feel they're safer than toe clips.
6) Suspension systems are heavy, and will not dramatically improve your riding on the road. Become accustomed to standing over bumps and rough pavement. If you want to ride more aggressively off-road, front suspension is far more important for control. I would not buy a fully sustpended bike that costs less than $800-1000. And, even at that price range, I'd expect the bike to be several pounds heavier than other bikes that cost
much less.
7) Carry tools, and know how to use them. You must be able to replace and inflate a tire on the road. I prefer pumps to the C0-2 inflaters. Carry a spare tube and a tube patch kit.
8) Rudimentary bicycle maintenance is very easy, and doesn't require a lot in the way of expensive tools. Adjusting your brakes and shifters are not difficult. Have the bike shop give you a run down of how the systems work.
Nor do poorly founded, poorly spelled invective.
"blatently." *snicker*
I know you are, but what am I?
This is fun.
Make me, dummyhead.
How's sixth grade treating you?
Ummm...how do I get the other half?
OK, I apologize for going off half-cocked. Been working on an aircraft design for 24 hours and I decided to come onto /. and get snippy.
: )
OK, fair enough, I'm much better at aircraft design than spacecraft, because that's what I'm interested in, but I can say with some assurance that I know a hell of a lot more about stuff that fly the average bear.
In other words, bite me.
Any engineer that doesn't appreciate elegant design isn't a very good engineer.
I know I know...it was just too good to pass up. : )
Ummm, please point out the big color LCD in this image.
Uh, you really confused me when you excluded the set of devices that run PalmOS from your PalmPC "category".
Ummm, my bad?
Note that some of Sony's Clie models have mini-USB connections, and the foldable keyboards vary from awful good to spectacular in performance.
I think you're wrong.
Good encryption is peer reviewed. By (necessary, but not sufficient) definition.
You are SO going to need to draw me a diagram on that first paragraph.
: )
Folded up, it looks to me like a featureless silver ingot.
I mean, that's elegant and all, but it doesn't really tell me it's a PDA. Could be a jewelry box. Who knows?
You might check out the HandEra V330. My mom has one, and it is a pretty sweet piece of hardware. PalmOS, killer high-res screen (with software graffiti area!) No wireless, but it does have both a CF and a SmartMedia slot, so you can have memory and expansion at the same time.
Built in voice recorder, which is a much more useful tool than I'd given it credit for.
Enjoy.
Short battery life, on a Palm PC. Huh?
I just changed the two rechargeables in my Handspring Visor. I last charged them, ummm, three months ago. I use this thing a fair bit.
Where's that short battery life problem? Certainly not on any PalmOS computer I've ever worked with.
Yeah, and nobody uses it. That makes it better...why?
How many (say) printer mfr's support UPnP? Zero. How many support Rendezvous? More than zero.
Rendezvous wins. Yay.
I think it's called xBox Live, and you'll get to pay for it again and again.
Man, I remember when gaming on PCs was actually fun.
You know what? That's about the coolest thing I've ever heard.
I can't wait to graduate, and get a real job, and buy an iBook. Those things just kick holy ass.
I've been jacking with XP at home, and I've come to the conclusion that it's XP that doesn't work right.
$.02. From me to you. : )
Uh, OK. Want a cookie?
This is relevant to the rest of the population of the universe, why?
Some people (like me) are willing to pay for well-designed hardware. Some (like you) are not. Last time I checked, this was not a conflict.
If you percieve using Linux as an end in itself, you can sure do that.
Otherwise, why would you want to?
OK, let me step back and enjoy the irony of Open Source grognards waiting Apple to write a user interface that's easier for them to understand. /me picks a fight... : )
Like how to spell "blatantly"?
'Cuz nobody can recognize them since they switched to that stupid new logo.
; )
*wipes tear from eye*
That was beautiful.