IIRC, either some Versions of Maple contain a Matlab compatibility system that lets them run Matlab scripts or vice-versa.
I've dealt with Both. Rutgers makes heavy use of Maple, Cornell makes heavy use of Matlab. (With a few profs using Mathematica, for VERY valid reasons.)
From what I remember, moving from Maple to Matlab was not too difficult.
My freshman year, everyone had static IPs assigned to them and set up manually in the hardware. The $80 or so/year ResNet fee got your port activated.
One or two years later, they moved to DHCP. You registered your MAC (If you had an unregistered MAC, you got routed to the registration website), and then you would be given an essentially static IP address assigned by DHCP. I heard that you could even plug in your machine into a dorm network across campus and retain the same IP (I'm not sure about that, the routing would be nasty... But you'd at least get access.) I'm not sure since I had already moved off campus at this point.
Depending on the branch of Christianity, the bible can also be interpreted in various ways.
I'm Protestant, as my associate pastor once explained to our youth group, "While the Bible may have originally been the Word of God, it was orally passed down by people for centuries, written down by a person, and later translated by other people. As such it is not necessarily accurate."
For example, 720p format is 1280x720. This is the same as many recent Apple powerbooks. (The latest 15" PB ups it to 864 vertical, and the 17" finally has 1440x900, still not close to Dell's 1600x1200 laptop screens.)
It also happens to be higher than many people run their monitors at.
I don't think many people would complain about a 30"+ screen that did 1280x720.
As to overscan - I believe this is only an issue with NTSC.
Yeah, I was talking about the "bare minimum" to get a decent HDTV setup that's excellent as a "first taste" of HDTV for the average Slashdotter.
The original poster was basically saying that such expensive items are the minimum level of entry into HDTV, while there are much cheaper ways to do it that work quite well.
That said, once you've had your first taste, it could get expensive. Once I can afford it (Going to be a while) I intend on upgrading my current crap projector (640x480 only, not good for HDTV) to something a bit better, it looks like the low $2000 range will get you a 1024x768 DLP unit. I'm also very tempted at getting a basic low-end surround decoder, I've seen em' for as low as $150 or so.
It's possible to save a LOT of money with getting yourself up and running with HDTV if you're not afraid of a little bit of DIY hacking.:)
"I don't think I want another television screen that can't also be a computer monitor."
Most HDTVs have DVI or VGA inputs.
For those that don't, quality-wise component YCrCb is as good as RGB VGA for inputs. Radeons have component capability built in, and a $200 transcoder is all that's needed to make any other video card output component. (I've seen plans to DIY a transcoder for $20 or so too.)
This gives a large, widescreen, decent resolution monitor that kicks butt for games. Many current consoles support component outputs also, I've seen many people raving about how great their Gamecube or Xbox looks on their HDTV.
Conversely, if you're not concerned too much with screen size and only with picture quality, you can't go wrong with using a $300 HDTV tuner card (MyHD, available from www.digitalconnection.com)to feed your current monitor.
I added a MyHD to my machine for a total outlay of only $300 beyond what I'd already spent on my system for general computing and gaming. I have an 18" flatpanel, anything better than a 17" CRT will do pretty well as an HDTV resolution-wise.
So if that sounds like a good resolution to you (For example, Apple zealots who think that Powerbook screens at this resolution or lower are the be-all and end-all of laptop screens even in the face of 1600x1200 Dells), go for it. (The largest screen Powerbook is only 1440x900)
Plenty of people at www.avsforum.com use their HDTVs as monitors.
Some HDTVs have DVI and VGA inputs. Others only have component YCrCb. ATI cards have built-in component capability, you can make a component dongle for about $5. Other cards will require a transcoder, around $200 unless you build one yourself (I've seen plans for one somewhere, cost is about $20)
If you're just concerned with picture quality and not screen size. (The difference between HDTV and analog is noticeable on even a good 1" FP or 19" monitor, prolly even a 17" Trinitron which is dirt cheap and probably considered bare minimum by many readers of this site.)
Just get a good PC monitor. Buy an HDTV tuner card for your PC, and boom. HDTV for $300 beyond what you've probably already spent long ago on a good monitor for your computer.
For easy-to-find indoor antennas, do not touch anything other than the Zenith/Antiference Silver Sensor.
It's a very slick LPDA design, which at $40 will blow away the $100 Terk TV55.
There are 2-3 other indoor antennas popular on avsforum.com, although they're usually harder to obtain.
I'm 33 miles from NYC and the Silver Sensor unamplified was just *barely* able to get WCBS-DT and WNYW-DT (CBS and Fox from NYC), when my monster V/U yagi in the attic with a crappy preamp couldn't get anything. (In the end I put a Channel Master preamp on the big yagi and am returning the SS, which I mainly bought out of curiosity. Its performance is incredible for such a small antenna, it just wasn't sufficient for my location.)
MIT = Macro Image Technology, some Korean company, not the famous educational institution.
Both are available from www.digitalconnection.com, although the HiPix is VERY backordered.
The HiPix is universally agreed to have the best software available, but I've heard the receiver is so-so in sensitivity. The MyHD has so-so software (although constantly improving, the latest beta is an incredible step forward) but reportedly excellent receive sensitivity - Still kinda sucks compared to the Samsung SIR-T151 STB.
I have had the MyHD for about a week and was reasonably happy with it. No additional antenna needed, although we never got cable here so we have a pretty large OTA antenna. I'll be soon building a custom antenna just to get Philly stations. (Unfortunately, thanks to 9/11, the state of HD in New York City isn't too good. Only CBS and Fox are on the air, with UPN piggybacking a 480i signal on one of Fox's subchannels.)
Don't believe the hype about "HDTV antennas" - Any antenna that can receive analog can receive HDTV, although because many of the HDTV channels are currently on UHF, you can get away with a UHF-only antenna.
Best antennas you can get by walking into a store are the Zenith/Antiference Silver Sensor (Available at Sears, a very nice LPDA design), and Radio Shack has a pretty big UHF yagi. Mail-order, if you can't get a station with the Channel Master 4228, you won't be getting that station at all.
Don't be misled by the Terk TV55. It's a $99 piece of crap, the unamplified $39 Silver Sensor will eat it for lunch.
Stay away from Radio Shack preamplifiers. Lowes home centers carry Channel Master mast-mount preamps - CM and Winegard are two of the best TV antenna/preamp manufacturers.
A lot of the problems with HDTV are marketingof accessories... $150 cables that aren't any better than generic $10 RCA cables, and a multitude of ultraexpensive antennas that are pieces of crap.
Do your research and go to www.avsforum.com
And don't knock HDTV until you've tried it.
My HD setup: 18" flat-panel AMD Athlon Tbird 1.1, 512M RAM GeForce4 Ti4600 MIT MyHD card Old creative DVD drive Altec Lansing ACS-48 computer speakers
Total outlay to get HDTV: $300. The rest of the hardware was already there, my HDTV is also my trusty 'ole primary desktop. The only part in the above list other than the MyHD I've had for less than a year was the Dell 1800FP display.
Even the Fox pseudo-HD content (It's 480p, which some don't consider to be HD, but is still far better than 480i), I can definately tell the difference.
Given a choice between HD (Or even simply non-widescreen digital content such as the Simpsons), HDTV/DTV on my PC screen blows away NTSC on our larger TVs. non-widescreen Fox 480p content looks incredible compared to even WNBC, which is the station with the best analog reception where I live. It's a decent bit better than cable too.
You could've simply used any decent quality cables with RCA connectors on the end.
Even better, look around and find RCA connectors that fit on RG6 coax. That way you can make a cable that blows that $75 cable away for a fraction of the price. (Heck, at only 12 feet, even RG59 should be fine.)
Bah, your cost estimates are WAY too high, at least for the average Slashdot reader.
PC: Most Slashdotters already have one. Good display: Many Slashdotters already have one. PCI HDTV tuner card: $300 MyHD from www.digitalconnection.com
You don't necessarily need a widescreen super-huge monitor to get the advantages of HDTV. I have an 18" LCD flat-panel and my PC is my HDTV tuner. The quality is stunning. Even on the relatively small monitor the difference is incredible for shows like CSI.
Note that the MyHD card OR your existing video card both make for excellent progressive-scan DVD players.
Yes, a lot of what's on TV is crap. But there are also good shows in HD. For example, CSI is broadcast in HDTV. The difference is incredible. Once you've seen it you never want to go back.
Note: I never bought an actual HDTV. I have a PCI HDTV tuner card (MyHD from www.digitalconnection.com) which displays to my nice 18" flatpanel.
There's this really cool website you should check out for your news, http://slashdot.org/ - It's a great place to point your browser to occasionally to read.
Oops. s/HTTP/FTP/ at the beginning of my post. Most proxies I've dealt with didn't deal with FTP well, not HTTP. Big typo there.
As to proxies: For non-authenticating proxies and access to public files, there are a total of 0 logins to get a file. FTP requires at the very least an anonymous loging. (Although most browsers handle this automagically.)
For authenticating proxies (Microsoft proxy servers using NTLM for example), the user usually only has to deal with authentication with the proxy once (And in most cases, they do so in order to even log in to their machine).
Aforementioned MS proxies don't do FTP very well. A company I previously worked for used to have a non-MS proxy that only supported HTTP. NOTHING ELSE.
90% of proxy systems out there don't support HTTP very well. Some don't at all.
FTP: Isn't guaranteed to work from behind a NAT firewall. Usually works, esp. with modern NAT firewalls, but isn't guaranteed. HTTP is. Also, the FTP support for Microsoft proxy servers (Found on many corporate firewalls) isn't that hot.
If you want maximum compatibility, even in the weirdest of network situations, HTTP is the way to go.
And as far as HTTP being slower/faster than FTP - 90% of the time I've been to a site that offered an option of HTTP and FTP downloads, HTTP was significantly faster and was often encouraged by the site because it uses less server resources.
Any idea how to reject messages that have bogus domains in the Received: headers? For example:
Received: from 200-171-127-240.terra.com.br (200-171-127-240.terra.com.br [200.171.127.240] (may be forged))
by mailhub3.mail.cornell.edu (8.12.6/8.12.6) with SMTP id h1BGY5fa026349;
Tue, 11 Feb 2003 11:34:07 -0500 (EST) Received: from z6rbbasc.aw [143.24.93.162] by 200-171-127-240.terra.com.br with ESMTP id WAIBYOKKT; Mon, 10 Feb 03 09:02:53 +0400 Received: from tjg6o [129.65.215.50] by 143.24.93.162 with ESMTP id LNCGVGJT; Mon, 10 Feb 03 08:58:53 +0400 Message-ID:
As you can see, the Message-ID: doesn't contain a vailid domain name, and two of the Received: lines carry forged domainnames. How can I block out spams like this?
At the college I graduated from (And a number of others, I know Columbia University uses a similar system), you are assigned a netID. Your netID consists of your initials and then a number. (For example, mine was atd7. If you have a common set of initials, the number can be in the 50s or higher.)
Needless to say, the address namespace at school has in the past year or two been the victim of brute-force dictionary-based attacks on our namespace.
The moment one of these emails doesn't bounce, BOOM. Your email is valid and the spam starts rolling in.
"No, you get a page which works perfectly fine in Navigator 4.7, if you identify yourself as anything other than IE6 and above, or Netscape 6 and above."
Hmm... So then why did the fictional Oprah 7.0 browser (Not IE6 or NS6) return non-broken CSS?
GET A REAL CORKSCREW. Pocketknife/multi-tool corkscrews don't cut it. At the VERY least get a proper "winged" wine corkscrew, they're only a few dollars.
Brookstone has some REALLY nice corkpullers. Push a lever down and it automatically twists the screw in, pull it back up and it pulls the cork out. Insanely easy, and it's a flashy way to open a bottle of wine too. I'm sure you struggling to get the cork out of your bottle of wine with a crappy pocketknife will kill the mood. Plus I don't know how many times substandard corkscrews have resulted in small chunks of cork ending up in the wine for me... (I have one that is not a Brookstone puller, but is 99% identical to the ones they sell. It is GREAT.)
Slashdot Mirror
IIRC, either some Versions of Maple contain a Matlab compatibility system that lets them run Matlab scripts or vice-versa.
I've dealt with Both. Rutgers makes heavy use of Maple, Cornell makes heavy use of Matlab. (With a few profs using Mathematica, for VERY valid reasons.)
From what I remember, moving from Maple to Matlab was not too difficult.
Where I work, people use Matlab heavily.
Well, they do now.
My freshman year, everyone had static IPs assigned to them and set up manually in the hardware. The $80 or so/year ResNet fee got your port activated.
One or two years later, they moved to DHCP. You registered your MAC (If you had an unregistered MAC, you got routed to the registration website), and then you would be given an essentially static IP address assigned by DHCP. I heard that you could even plug in your machine into a dorm network across campus and retain the same IP (I'm not sure about that, the routing would be nasty... But you'd at least get access.) I'm not sure since I had already moved off campus at this point.
I think I heard something like 40x realtime.
As in 1 minute of HDTV will take 40 minutes to display.
Depending on the branch of Christianity, the bible can also be interpreted in various ways.
I'm Protestant, as my associate pastor once explained to our youth group, "While the Bible may have originally been the Word of God, it was orally passed down by people for centuries, written down by a person, and later translated by other people. As such it is not necessarily accurate."
A lot of PC users don't run at 1600x1200 either.
For example, 720p format is 1280x720. This is the same as many recent Apple powerbooks. (The latest 15" PB ups it to 864 vertical, and the 17" finally has 1440x900, still not close to Dell's 1600x1200 laptop screens.)
It also happens to be higher than many people run their monitors at.
I don't think many people would complain about a 30"+ screen that did 1280x720.
As to overscan - I believe this is only an issue with NTSC.
Yeah, I was talking about the "bare minimum" to get a decent HDTV setup that's excellent as a "first taste" of HDTV for the average Slashdotter.
:)
The original poster was basically saying that such expensive items are the minimum level of entry into HDTV, while there are much cheaper ways to do it that work quite well.
That said, once you've had your first taste, it could get expensive. Once I can afford it (Going to be a while) I intend on upgrading my current crap projector (640x480 only, not good for HDTV) to something a bit better, it looks like the low $2000 range will get you a 1024x768 DLP unit. I'm also very tempted at getting a basic low-end surround decoder, I've seen em' for as low as $150 or so.
It's possible to save a LOT of money with getting yourself up and running with HDTV if you're not afraid of a little bit of DIY hacking.
"I don't think I want another television screen that can't also be a computer monitor."
Most HDTVs have DVI or VGA inputs.
For those that don't, quality-wise component YCrCb is as good as RGB VGA for inputs. Radeons have component capability built in, and a $200 transcoder is all that's needed to make any other video card output component. (I've seen plans to DIY a transcoder for $20 or so too.)
This gives a large, widescreen, decent resolution monitor that kicks butt for games. Many current consoles support component outputs also, I've seen many people raving about how great their Gamecube or Xbox looks on their HDTV.
Conversely, if you're not concerned too much with screen size and only with picture quality, you can't go wrong with using a $300 HDTV tuner card (MyHD, available from www.digitalconnection.com)to feed your current monitor.
I added a MyHD to my machine for a total outlay of only $300 beyond what I'd already spent on my system for general computing and gaming. I have an 18" flatpanel, anything better than a 17" CRT will do pretty well as an HDTV resolution-wise.
The Samsung SIR-T151 is only $400 at BestBuy. Probably less if you shop around.
720p is 1280x720.
So if that sounds like a good resolution to you (For example, Apple zealots who think that Powerbook screens at this resolution or lower are the be-all and end-all of laptop screens even in the face of 1600x1200 Dells), go for it. (The largest screen Powerbook is only 1440x900)
Plenty of people at www.avsforum.com use their HDTVs as monitors.
Some HDTVs have DVI and VGA inputs. Others only have component YCrCb. ATI cards have built-in component capability, you can make a component dongle for about $5. Other cards will require a transcoder, around $200 unless you build one yourself (I've seen plans for one somewhere, cost is about $20)
If you're just concerned with picture quality and not screen size. (The difference between HDTV and analog is noticeable on even a good 1" FP or 19" monitor, prolly even a 17" Trinitron which is dirt cheap and probably considered bare minimum by many readers of this site.)
Just get a good PC monitor. Buy an HDTV tuner card for your PC, and boom. HDTV for $300 beyond what you've probably already spent long ago on a good monitor for your computer.
For easy-to-find indoor antennas, do not touch anything other than the Zenith/Antiference Silver Sensor.
It's a very slick LPDA design, which at $40 will blow away the $100 Terk TV55.
There are 2-3 other indoor antennas popular on avsforum.com, although they're usually harder to obtain.
I'm 33 miles from NYC and the Silver Sensor unamplified was just *barely* able to get WCBS-DT and WNYW-DT (CBS and Fox from NYC), when my monster V/U yagi in the attic with a crappy preamp couldn't get anything. (In the end I put a Channel Master preamp on the big yagi and am returning the SS, which I mainly bought out of curiosity. Its performance is incredible for such a small antenna, it just wasn't sufficient for my location.)
MIT = Macro Image Technology, some Korean company, not the famous educational institution.
Both are available from www.digitalconnection.com, although the HiPix is VERY backordered.
The HiPix is universally agreed to have the best software available, but I've heard the receiver is so-so in sensitivity. The MyHD has so-so software (although constantly improving, the latest beta is an incredible step forward) but reportedly excellent receive sensitivity - Still kinda sucks compared to the Samsung SIR-T151 STB.
I have had the MyHD for about a week and was reasonably happy with it. No additional antenna needed, although we never got cable here so we have a pretty large OTA antenna. I'll be soon building a custom antenna just to get Philly stations. (Unfortunately, thanks to 9/11, the state of HD in New York City isn't too good. Only CBS and Fox are on the air, with UPN piggybacking a 480i signal on one of Fox's subchannels.)
Don't believe the hype about "HDTV antennas" - Any antenna that can receive analog can receive HDTV, although because many of the HDTV channels are currently on UHF, you can get away with a UHF-only antenna.
Best antennas you can get by walking into a store are the Zenith/Antiference Silver Sensor (Available at Sears, a very nice LPDA design), and Radio Shack has a pretty big UHF yagi. Mail-order, if you can't get a station with the Channel Master 4228, you won't be getting that station at all.
Don't be misled by the Terk TV55. It's a $99 piece of crap, the unamplified $39 Silver Sensor will eat it for lunch.
Stay away from Radio Shack preamplifiers. Lowes home centers carry Channel Master mast-mount preamps - CM and Winegard are two of the best TV antenna/preamp manufacturers.
A lot of the problems with HDTV are marketingof accessories... $150 cables that aren't any better than generic $10 RCA cables, and a multitude of ultraexpensive antennas that are pieces of crap.
Do your research and go to www.avsforum.com
And don't knock HDTV until you've tried it.
My HD setup:
18" flat-panel
AMD Athlon Tbird 1.1, 512M RAM
GeForce4 Ti4600
MIT MyHD card
Old creative DVD drive
Altec Lansing ACS-48 computer speakers
Total outlay to get HDTV: $300. The rest of the hardware was already there, my HDTV is also my trusty 'ole primary desktop. The only part in the above list other than the MyHD I've had for less than a year was the Dell 1800FP display.
Even the Fox pseudo-HD content (It's 480p, which some don't consider to be HD, but is still far better than 480i), I can definately tell the difference.
Given a choice between HD (Or even simply non-widescreen digital content such as the Simpsons), HDTV/DTV on my PC screen blows away NTSC on our larger TVs. non-widescreen Fox 480p content looks incredible compared to even WNBC, which is the station with the best analog reception where I live. It's a decent bit better than cable too.
You could've simply used any decent quality cables with RCA connectors on the end.
Even better, look around and find RCA connectors that fit on RG6 coax. That way you can make a cable that blows that $75 cable away for a fraction of the price. (Heck, at only 12 feet, even RG59 should be fine.)
Bah, your cost estimates are WAY too high, at least for the average Slashdot reader.
PC: Most Slashdotters already have one.
Good display: Many Slashdotters already have one.
PCI HDTV tuner card: $300 MyHD from www.digitalconnection.com
You don't necessarily need a widescreen super-huge monitor to get the advantages of HDTV. I have an 18" LCD flat-panel and my PC is my HDTV tuner. The quality is stunning. Even on the relatively small monitor the difference is incredible for shows like CSI.
Note that the MyHD card OR your existing video card both make for excellent progressive-scan DVD players.
Where do you NEED to have DVDs as opposed to VHS?
Same idea as analog TV vs. HDTV.
Yes, a lot of what's on TV is crap. But there are also good shows in HD. For example, CSI is broadcast in HDTV. The difference is incredible. Once you've seen it you never want to go back.
Note: I never bought an actual HDTV. I have a PCI HDTV tuner card (MyHD from www.digitalconnection.com) which displays to my nice 18" flatpanel.
There's this really cool website you should check out for your news, http://slashdot.org/ - It's a great place to point your browser to occasionally to read.
Oops. s/HTTP/FTP/ at the beginning of my post. Most proxies I've dealt with didn't deal with FTP well, not HTTP. Big typo there.
As to proxies: For non-authenticating proxies and access to public files, there are a total of 0 logins to get a file. FTP requires at the very least an anonymous loging. (Although most browsers handle this automagically.)
For authenticating proxies (Microsoft proxy servers using NTLM for example), the user usually only has to deal with authentication with the proxy once (And in most cases, they do so in order to even log in to their machine).
Aforementioned MS proxies don't do FTP very well. A company I previously worked for used to have a non-MS proxy that only supported HTTP. NOTHING ELSE.
I think not.
90% of proxy systems out there don't support HTTP very well. Some don't at all.
FTP: Isn't guaranteed to work from behind a NAT firewall. Usually works, esp. with modern NAT firewalls, but isn't guaranteed. HTTP is. Also, the FTP support for Microsoft proxy servers (Found on many corporate firewalls) isn't that hot.
If you want maximum compatibility, even in the weirdest of network situations, HTTP is the way to go.
And as far as HTTP being slower/faster than FTP - 90% of the time I've been to a site that offered an option of HTTP and FTP downloads, HTTP was significantly faster and was often encouraged by the site because it uses less server resources.
Ever thought of how popular a multiplayer deathmatch version of this game would be?
Something that could never be done at home - Too easy to cheat.
Any idea how to reject messages that have bogus domains in the Received: headers? For example:
Received: from 200-171-127-240.terra.com.br (200-171-127-240.terra.com.br [200.171.127.240] (may be forged))
by mailhub3.mail.cornell.edu (8.12.6/8.12.6) with SMTP id h1BGY5fa026349;
Tue, 11 Feb 2003 11:34:07 -0500 (EST)
Received: from z6rbbasc.aw [143.24.93.162] by 200-171-127-240.terra.com.br with ESMTP id WAIBYOKKT; Mon, 10 Feb 03 09:02:53 +0400
Received: from tjg6o [129.65.215.50] by 143.24.93.162 with ESMTP id LNCGVGJT; Mon, 10 Feb 03 08:58:53 +0400
Message-ID:
As you can see, the Message-ID: doesn't contain a vailid domain name, and two of the Received: lines carry forged domainnames. How can I block out spams like this?
At the college I graduated from (And a number of others, I know Columbia University uses a similar system), you are assigned a netID. Your netID consists of your initials and then a number. (For example, mine was atd7. If you have a common set of initials, the number can be in the 50s or higher.)
Needless to say, the address namespace at school has in the past year or two been the victim of brute-force dictionary-based attacks on our namespace.
The moment one of these emails doesn't bounce, BOOM. Your email is valid and the spam starts rolling in.
"No, you get a page which works perfectly fine in Navigator 4.7, if you identify yourself as anything other than IE6 and above, or Netscape 6 and above."
Hmm... So then why did the fictional Oprah 7.0 browser (Not IE6 or NS6) return non-broken CSS?
http://deb.opera.com/howcome/2003/2/msn/
'nuff said
Second that suggestion.
GET A REAL CORKSCREW. Pocketknife/multi-tool corkscrews don't cut it. At the VERY least get a proper "winged" wine corkscrew, they're only a few dollars.
Brookstone has some REALLY nice corkpullers. Push a lever down and it automatically twists the screw in, pull it back up and it pulls the cork out. Insanely easy, and it's a flashy way to open a bottle of wine too. I'm sure you struggling to get the cork out of your bottle of wine with a crappy pocketknife will kill the mood. Plus I don't know how many times substandard corkscrews have resulted in small chunks of cork ending up in the wine for me... (I have one that is not a Brookstone puller, but is 99% identical to the ones they sell. It is GREAT.)