Those under 13 or twins will affect the Sansung biometric authentication too.
Eh? Your retinas don't change drastically as you enter adulthood, nor do twins have identical retinas.
Also, their implementation uses a camera to do simple photographic matching and can be fooled with pictures of the user's face or eyes.
Eh? Email me. We'll set up a time and place to meet, you take and print a picture of my eyes, and go ahead an unlock my S8 Plus. You can have the phone and $100 cash if it works. The truth is you need a bit more than just a photo of my eyes to unlock my phone. Can it be bypassed? Indeed, but it's a bit more involved than just grabbing a pic off Facebook. You need a photo taken form the right distance and angle, with the right type of camera, using the right type of lens, a bit of luck in capturing the iris structures accurately enough, printed using a specific printer (they found a single model that worked for this), and a contact lens. A camera capable of taking the necessary photo is going to be on the large side, a proper DSLR or mirrorless with a 200mm lens, to the point that you aren't going to hide yourself taking several shots at 5 meters directly in front of my gaze as I'm looking right at you (the only way to get a good photo for this purpose).
I am not saying this method is perfect, but there is no demonstrated way to fool the system at this point.
Other than being the owner's twin, you mean? If you can't pull that off, you can always just knock the owner unconscious, slide their eyes open, and hold the phone in front of their face. Incidentally, that both requires less stealth, precision, and equipment than the S8 retina scan hack and works on both the iPhone X and the S8.
I am not saying this method is perfect, but there is no demonstrated way to fool the system at this point.
The only reason FaceID hasn't been publicly cracked yet is because it isn't yet in the hands of anyone outside of Apple. I give it until November 5; it comes out on the 3rd.
The S8 has no physical home button, Apple didn't invent that. Too bad Apple advises people who are under 13 or have siblings to not use FaceID; Samsung's retina unock would likely be an ideal solution for them.
Apple did innovate in the screen-notch market, though. Real courage!
Would you prefer no feedback that the keypress registered?
I was pointing out that there is, in fact, other feedback that the key press was registered.
After sampling a moderately-sized group of both iOS and Android users, I have discovered that most of them watch the screen of their phone's calculator while using it, just as with the el-cheapo desk calculator most of them have. It's learned behavior, as those el-cheapo calculators don't always register a press despite the key physically moving and hitting the end of its travel. That said, even the fastest-typing iOS users I know were hard-pressed to recreate the issue in this article, even after I eventually told them why I was having them do the simplest of math on their phone, rather than in their head; most of them even actively tried to get it to fuck up and couldn't.
Sad that this bug happened, but you have to be pretty damn quick to trigger it.
Well, given that the feedback in this case is a button animation, I must be looking at the screen in order to see it... so the digits on the calculator display changing might give me some clue that my input was registered. Beyond that, the haptic feedback already provided by the phone does a fine enough job of letting me know my input was received.
When AC says Honda, I'm assuming he means the in-dash navigation and radio. Imagine, for a moment, that you think you hear sirens, but you don't see flashing lights, so you decide to turn the radio down to hear them better. You can't really wait for a safe place to pull over to do that, since you may end up impeding an emergency vehicle before then, so you're stuck fumbling with the damn infotainment system and waiting for it to animate every... single... button... press... before... it... will... do... anything... else.
By the time you've turned the damn thing down enough to hear, the ambulance or fire truck is up your ass, because you had to take your eyes off the road (and your rear-view mirror) to look for the spot on the screen to touch for volume in the first place.
Can we just have fucking physical knobs and buttons back, please?
Accused, yes. With no evidence. If an accusation is all it took I'd have turned you into a child molester by now. Be glad your tactics are weak or I'd turn them around on you.
Indeed, I'm not too proud to admit my spare monitor was garbage picked. It's not hard to find good stuff for literally free when you live in an apartment and don't care what your neighbors think.
Less electronic waste at the dump means people who scream about how we don't need to repair our can'go to the dump and snag to repair it themselves. When we start repairing our stuff, they stop getting it for cheap when we throw it out.
Hell, my dad was buing me voice recognition chips off the shelf from Radio Shack for projects with I was 5 or 6, so it's been available commercially since the mid 80's.
I can attest to the fact that there was a short while a few years ago when NewEgg didn't allow this. I can also attest to the fact that, at least as of 2 years ago, they began allowing it again.
I had this happen with $650 worth of RAM. UPS was at my door the very next day with a replacement and to pick up the first delivery. I can't say I've had NewEgg provide that level of service and, well, I give my money to whoever treats me better, with less regard for price than most; Amazon just happens to usually have better prices, too.
Shit, I've had Amazon refund orders that I actually received, all automatically without my involvement. I only found out about the most recent one while looking at another recent order that hadn't arrived yet; I saw the refund and decided to investigate, since I was using the item at the time.
Turns out it's a side effect of them combining orders for shipping. They combined the order before and after the item in question (a headphone amplifier), but they sent the amplifier in its own box. They also sent one in the combined order.
When I questioned them about the refund, they insisted I must have bought the one I was using somewhere else, as they had already gotten the underliverable one back. You know what? I tried. I'm not going to spend more than a few minutes of time away from my billable hours during a workday to try and give someone else my money if they don't want it.
If someone from Amazon sees this and has the power to correct it, go right ahead. If not? Hell, I tried.
NewEgg, on the other hand, advertised the router I am currently using as refurbished in retail packaging with 2 year factory warranty, same as if it were new. It showed up in a plain box with a 90 day warranty. They didn't seem bothered by this and and had no interest in making it right; however, they were more than happy to take the item back if I paid for return shipping. My response was to tell them that I'll accept the item sent to me under the advertised terms and if it breaks within 2 years and I can't get warranty coverage, we'll figure out how they can make it right then.
Lucky for them, that was 2 years ago and the thing is still working. The difference in price between the one on Amazon listed with a 90 day warranty and the one on NewEgg was less than the price of return shipping, so I would have ended up paying more and getting the exact same product has I played into their fraud.
It was, however, my last purchase from them, just months after I bought several thousand in parts from them. I've spent several thousand more than that in parts from Amazon since; they clearly thought the $50 it would have cost them to take back what they sent me ans send me something in retail packaging with a 2 year warranty as advertised was worth more than my buying history showed they were likely to make on me -- which makes me wonder if they're simply ignorant of basic math. If that's the case, they're likely innocent in this case even if they were clearly committing fraud when they sold me that router.
No reason not to make it an option for people who may have already considered that the head needs to be dumped somewhere. How many kilowatts of heat do you think a fully loaded aisle in a datacenter dumps at idle? Yet they manage to keep those rooms cool. When you're talking about someone who cares about that level of performance, you're talking about someone who probably has a place to put it.
Plus, I don't think what was being asked was for it to run at full speed all the time, but for it to be able to run at full speed when needed without throttling. I don't think anyone has a problem with an idle CPU dropping into a low power state, but if I'm doing something that pushes that CPU to 100%, throttling only makes it take longer. If the difference in power consumption (e.g. heat output) between full speed and throttling back to 25% (e.g. a reduction of 75% performance) is less than 75%, I'll be using more power and dumping more heat, on top of my work taking 4x longer to finish.
And, since an idle CPU does use power, a 75% reduction in speed won't represent a 75% reduction in power consumption. Think of it this way: if my CPU uses 25 watts at idle and 125 watts at 100%, with a linear power curve (we'll assume this for simplicity), that's 1 watt per percent of CPU utilization. at 100% it uses 125 watts, at 25% it uses 50 watts. A job that would take an hour at 100% would use 125 watt hours of energy and dump what we'll call 1.25 units of heat into the room (since we don't know how much of that 125 watts becomes heat, we simply define as our unit "however much heat our CPU dumps at 100 watts"). At 25%, with the CPU using 50 watts and the job now taking 4 hours, we're using 200 watt hours of energy and 2 units of heat. It takes 4x longer, uses 60% more energy, and dumps 60% more heat into the room. There is no win with thermal throttling, it exists only to account for inadequate cooling solutions, to keep the chip from literally burning itself out.
Give me a system with thermal throttling as a protection mechanism in case the cooling system fails, but give me an adequate cooling system such that thermal throttling should never happen otherwise. I can always adjust the parameters of the cooling system if I decide comfort should trump performance for a period of time; a machine next to my desk might see that cooling system turned down to half capacity most of the time and thermal throttling would surely kick in under those circumstances if I loaded the system up, but a system in a dedicated room such as a datacenter would be able to run full-tilt without me giving a damn; the cooling system just needs to be able to handle it.
Plus, if you're talking about a system drawing over 150 watts, the only adequate cooling on the market right now is water cooling. You could have dozens of water cooled computers in the same room without dumping any notable amount of heat into the room: put the radiators outside or in another room. It's not like it hasn't been done before.
I'm out and about right now, so I don't have time to reply to everything you wrote. I did want to address this, though:
On second thought maybe an HDMI alternate mode on USB-C might not be so bad for a cheap dock. It supports power, USB 2.0, Ethernet, HDMI, and audio in/out. That's not too bad, especially for something like a smart phone, tablet computer, or other small system.
Kickstarter. Seriously, design this and launch it on Kickstarter. If you manage Android and Windows support, you'll have me as a backer.
Would you accept thermal throttling if they advertised a base speed it could do 100% of the time and a "all-out" speed it can do until the temperature rises too high? Or would you rather they just throttle it to the base speed and never give you the extra boost?
Slashdot Mirror
Those under 13 or twins will affect the Sansung biometric authentication too.
Eh? Your retinas don't change drastically as you enter adulthood, nor do twins have identical retinas.
Also, their implementation uses a camera to do simple photographic matching and can be fooled with pictures of the user's face or eyes.
Eh? Email me. We'll set up a time and place to meet, you take and print a picture of my eyes, and go ahead an unlock my S8 Plus. You can have the phone and $100 cash if it works. The truth is you need a bit more than just a photo of my eyes to unlock my phone. Can it be bypassed? Indeed, but it's a bit more involved than just grabbing a pic off Facebook. You need a photo taken form the right distance and angle, with the right type of camera, using the right type of lens, a bit of luck in capturing the iris structures accurately enough, printed using a specific printer (they found a single model that worked for this), and a contact lens. A camera capable of taking the necessary photo is going to be on the large side, a proper DSLR or mirrorless with a 200mm lens, to the point that you aren't going to hide yourself taking several shots at 5 meters directly in front of my gaze as I'm looking right at you (the only way to get a good photo for this purpose).
I am not saying this method is perfect, but there is no demonstrated way to fool the system at this point.
Other than being the owner's twin, you mean? If you can't pull that off, you can always just knock the owner unconscious, slide their eyes open, and hold the phone in front of their face. Incidentally, that both requires less stealth, precision, and equipment than the S8 retina scan hack and works on both the iPhone X and the S8.
I am not saying this method is perfect, but there is no demonstrated way to fool the system at this point.
The only reason FaceID hasn't been publicly cracked yet is because it isn't yet in the hands of anyone outside of Apple. I give it until November 5; it comes out on the 3rd.
I must be missing your point, then, and you're clearly missing mine.
The Honda in-dash radio has an "Audio" button at the top left which instantly turns the radio on or, more usefully, off.
One tap after taking your eyes off the road to look for the button.
Fixed.
What's your sample size? I farmed this little experiment out to a few dozen people I know and the results were more or less unanimous.
if I press "2" and a "3" appears on screen, I know the keypress didn't register...
The S8 has no physical home button, Apple didn't invent that. Too bad Apple advises people who are under 13 or have siblings to not use FaceID; Samsung's retina unock would likely be an ideal solution for them.
Apple did innovate in the screen-notch market, though. Real courage!
Would you prefer no feedback that the keypress registered?
I was pointing out that there is, in fact, other feedback that the key press was registered.
After sampling a moderately-sized group of both iOS and Android users, I have discovered that most of them watch the screen of their phone's calculator while using it, just as with the el-cheapo desk calculator most of them have. It's learned behavior, as those el-cheapo calculators don't always register a press despite the key physically moving and hitting the end of its travel. That said, even the fastest-typing iOS users I know were hard-pressed to recreate the issue in this article, even after I eventually told them why I was having them do the simplest of math on their phone, rather than in their head; most of them even actively tried to get it to fuck up and couldn't.
Sad that this bug happened, but you have to be pretty damn quick to trigger it.
Well, given that the feedback in this case is a button animation, I must be looking at the screen in order to see it... so the digits on the calculator display changing might give me some clue that my input was registered. Beyond that, the haptic feedback already provided by the phone does a fine enough job of letting me know my input was received.
When AC says Honda, I'm assuming he means the in-dash navigation and radio. Imagine, for a moment, that you think you hear sirens, but you don't see flashing lights, so you decide to turn the radio down to hear them better. You can't really wait for a safe place to pull over to do that, since you may end up impeding an emergency vehicle before then, so you're stuck fumbling with the damn infotainment system and waiting for it to animate every... single... button... press... before... it... will... do... anything... else.
By the time you've turned the damn thing down enough to hear, the ambulance or fire truck is up your ass, because you had to take your eyes off the road (and your rear-view mirror) to look for the spot on the screen to touch for volume in the first place.
Can we just have fucking physical knobs and buttons back, please?
Will Android follow suit now that phones are converging on an all-screen front with no hardware buttons?
I don't know, did iOS phones start going in that direction after Samsung released the S8?
TouchWiz. And I say that as a Sumsung user.
PCIe 2.0 and older... PCIe 3.0 and newer do, indeed, use something different.
Last I checked, "liars is an insult. The record clearly shows that you, friend, are the first to sling insults, and with no evidence to back them up.
Accused, yes. With no evidence. If an accusation is all it took I'd have turned you into a child molester by now. Be glad your tactics are weak or I'd turn them around on you.
Indeed, I'm not too proud to admit my spare monitor was garbage picked. It's not hard to find good stuff for literally free when you live in an apartment and don't care what your neighbors think.
Less electronic waste at the dump means people who scream about how we don't need to repair our can'go to the dump and snag to repair it themselves. When we start repairing our stuff, they stop getting it for cheap when we throw it out.
Hell, my dad was buing me voice recognition chips off the shelf from Radio Shack for projects with I was 5 or 6, so it's been available commercially since the mid 80's.
I can attest to the fact that there was a short while a few years ago when NewEgg didn't allow this. I can also attest to the fact that, at least as of 2 years ago, they began allowing it again.
I had this happen with $650 worth of RAM. UPS was at my door the very next day with a replacement and to pick up the first delivery. I can't say I've had NewEgg provide that level of service and, well, I give my money to whoever treats me better, with less regard for price than most; Amazon just happens to usually have better prices, too.
Especially if you live in the Bay Area and can get same-day shipping for $6.99
Shit, I've had Amazon refund orders that I actually received, all automatically without my involvement. I only found out about the most recent one while looking at another recent order that hadn't arrived yet; I saw the refund and decided to investigate, since I was using the item at the time.
Turns out it's a side effect of them combining orders for shipping. They combined the order before and after the item in question (a headphone amplifier), but they sent the amplifier in its own box. They also sent one in the combined order.
When I questioned them about the refund, they insisted I must have bought the one I was using somewhere else, as they had already gotten the underliverable one back. You know what? I tried. I'm not going to spend more than a few minutes of time away from my billable hours during a workday to try and give someone else my money if they don't want it.
If someone from Amazon sees this and has the power to correct it, go right ahead. If not? Hell, I tried.
NewEgg, on the other hand, advertised the router I am currently using as refurbished in retail packaging with 2 year factory warranty, same as if it were new. It showed up in a plain box with a 90 day warranty. They didn't seem bothered by this and and had no interest in making it right; however, they were more than happy to take the item back if I paid for return shipping. My response was to tell them that I'll accept the item sent to me under the advertised terms and if it breaks within 2 years and I can't get warranty coverage, we'll figure out how they can make it right then.
Lucky for them, that was 2 years ago and the thing is still working. The difference in price between the one on Amazon listed with a 90 day warranty and the one on NewEgg was less than the price of return shipping, so I would have ended up paying more and getting the exact same product has I played into their fraud.
It was, however, my last purchase from them, just months after I bought several thousand in parts from them. I've spent several thousand more than that in parts from Amazon since; they clearly thought the $50 it would have cost them to take back what they sent me ans send me something in retail packaging with a 2 year warranty as advertised was worth more than my buying history showed they were likely to make on me -- which makes me wonder if they're simply ignorant of basic math. If that's the case, they're likely innocent in this case even if they were clearly committing fraud when they sold me that router.
No reason not to make it an option for people who may have already considered that the head needs to be dumped somewhere. How many kilowatts of heat do you think a fully loaded aisle in a datacenter dumps at idle? Yet they manage to keep those rooms cool. When you're talking about someone who cares about that level of performance, you're talking about someone who probably has a place to put it.
Plus, I don't think what was being asked was for it to run at full speed all the time, but for it to be able to run at full speed when needed without throttling. I don't think anyone has a problem with an idle CPU dropping into a low power state, but if I'm doing something that pushes that CPU to 100%, throttling only makes it take longer. If the difference in power consumption (e.g. heat output) between full speed and throttling back to 25% (e.g. a reduction of 75% performance) is less than 75%, I'll be using more power and dumping more heat, on top of my work taking 4x longer to finish.
And, since an idle CPU does use power, a 75% reduction in speed won't represent a 75% reduction in power consumption. Think of it this way: if my CPU uses 25 watts at idle and 125 watts at 100%, with a linear power curve (we'll assume this for simplicity), that's 1 watt per percent of CPU utilization. at 100% it uses 125 watts, at 25% it uses 50 watts. A job that would take an hour at 100% would use 125 watt hours of energy and dump what we'll call 1.25 units of heat into the room (since we don't know how much of that 125 watts becomes heat, we simply define as our unit "however much heat our CPU dumps at 100 watts"). At 25%, with the CPU using 50 watts and the job now taking 4 hours, we're using 200 watt hours of energy and 2 units of heat. It takes 4x longer, uses 60% more energy, and dumps 60% more heat into the room. There is no win with thermal throttling, it exists only to account for inadequate cooling solutions, to keep the chip from literally burning itself out.
Give me a system with thermal throttling as a protection mechanism in case the cooling system fails, but give me an adequate cooling system such that thermal throttling should never happen otherwise. I can always adjust the parameters of the cooling system if I decide comfort should trump performance for a period of time; a machine next to my desk might see that cooling system turned down to half capacity most of the time and thermal throttling would surely kick in under those circumstances if I loaded the system up, but a system in a dedicated room such as a datacenter would be able to run full-tilt without me giving a damn; the cooling system just needs to be able to handle it.
Plus, if you're talking about a system drawing over 150 watts, the only adequate cooling on the market right now is water cooling. You could have dozens of water cooled computers in the same room without dumping any notable amount of heat into the room: put the radiators outside or in another room. It's not like it hasn't been done before.
On second thought maybe an HDMI alternate mode on USB-C might not be so bad for a cheap dock. It supports power, USB 2.0, Ethernet, HDMI, and audio in/out. That's not too bad, especially for something like a smart phone, tablet computer, or other small system.
Kickstarter. Seriously, design this and launch it on Kickstarter. If you manage Android and Windows support, you'll have me as a backer.
You joke, but I actually heard one of my Apple fanboi friends say something strikingly similar to that a couple years ago.
Would you accept thermal throttling if they advertised a base speed it could do 100% of the time and a "all-out" speed it can do until the temperature rises too high? Or would you rather they just throttle it to the base speed and never give you the extra boost?
You left out the 3rd option: proper cooling.