The Quest For Cool Cases Continues

Ok, so I have a problem: I want my case to look cool. I have neat hardware inside, why is it always a beige box on the outside. Well jblakey pointed us to www.colorcase.com and I browsed around a bit, thinking they looked familiar. Well we actually mentioned these guys almost a full year ago but they have since significantly updated their inventory. Colored Cases, Interesting Designs, Transparent Cases, and even keyboards and mice to match. They also have that ridiculous looking penguin case ;) If this sorta stuff is your bag, check it out. I dig the C1 and the T3

Comments

MY idea of a cool case...

[Tony Shepps]

My idea of a cool case:

• It doesn't double as a deli slicer, scraping the living $h!t out of your knuckles, fingertips, wrist, arm, etc. every single goddamn time you open it.
• If you drop a screw into the case, it rattles around like a pachinko machine and comes out in a tray at the bottom after ringing a little bell.
• USB, joystick, mouse, keyboard ports in front; video, parallel, serial ports in back.
• The critical side slides up like a roll-top desk to get to the slots, memory, and CPU.
• The front bays remove to install additions -- without opening the rest of the case and without screws.
• There's a washable dust filter, removable from the front panel, and it automatically tells you when it's dirty.
• Cable routing -- one unit smarter than "stuff it all in there and hope it doesn't touch the CPU fan".

I can't even get item #1 in any case I've ever owned. There's more flesh than components in some of the cases I've had. It's like the metal from computer cases comes from recycled cheese graters. These things should come with a coupon for a free tetanus shot.

Prices

[generic-man]

I managed to get Colorcase.com's sales department on the phone, since they don't quote prices on the site. For all of their cases except the aluminum ones, prices generally run between $79-99. The aluminum cases are $159. Shipping can get expensive, and the rates depend on where you are relative to Southern California.

HOW to Paint a Case, the right way!

[Sp@mMan]

Note: these instructions are for if you want a SHINY bitchin' looking case. If you want it to be difficult to look at your case in sunlight, follow these directions :-)

Step #1 Disassembling The Case:

Remove the side panels, or if all three sides come off in one piece remove the one piece. Remove the
front plastic bezel, remove all wiring, buttons, drive cages etc. We want a completely bare case.

Now separate the metal parts to be painted from the plastic parts.

If your front plastic bezel can be disassembled, then take it apart as well, it will be easier to sand this
way. Don't leave the buttons in or they can get stuck from the paint build-up.

Step #2 Trip To The Automotive Paint Store:

We have to pick up supplies before we start to work. I use PPG brand (or DuPont) Acrylic Urethane
base coat/ clear coat. This is Automotive paint (the best) and holds up extremely well (this answers
the question, "how well does it hold up")

Here's a list of supplies,

1. Silicone carbide wet or dry sandpaper in grits 220,320 (or 360),400,600,1000,1500,2000

2. Primer-I use PPG epoxy primer (or whatever is on the compatiblity chart for the paint you choose)
use a quick build-up type.

3. Flex additive- for the primer and the paint. This is used for painting plastic parts, so it will adhere to
the plastic without chipping off.

4. Paint- PPG Acrylic Urethane Base Coat/ Clear Coat (I also use DuPont, real good as well). That's
right we apply a basecoat of color first (enough for 3 coats) and then 3 coats of clear. You will also
need the appropriate thinner.

5. Clear Coat- As mentioned above, you will need clear acrylic urethane as well as thinner.

6. Activator- for the paint and the clear coat.

7. Masking paper- DO NOT USE NEWSPAPER!!!

8. Masking tape- Get it at the Automotive paint store, I always use 3M brand.

9. Stirring sticks, strainers, extra cans, tack clothes, white rags, rubber squeegee and laquer thinner
and aluminum trays for cleanup.

10. Wax and Grease remover. I make this #10 because it is the MOST IMPORTANT PART. You
must always keep your surface clean in between coats of primer and or paint. Oil from your hands
can ruin hours of work.

11. Rubbing compound (get a fine compound, it wont take much)

12. Fine finishing Polishing compound.

13. Show glaze Meguiars #7, this is the final topcoat to make it look like a show car.

14. Meguairs carnuba wax, after about 3 months wax your case.

Equipment You Will Need:

Air compressor, 5hp Sears works well, Paint gun, I use Binks Model #7 with filter screen or HVLP
(High volume low pressure, much less overspray), Oil and water extractor (place at least 25 feet from
compressor) keeps the air clean. Airhose. I also use a separate spray gun for primer.

Step #3 Sanding the Case Down:

Ok now the work begins. All the pieces should be separated. Get some 220 or 360 grit wet or dry
sandpaper ( use the 360 if your case has a nice finish on it) and wrap it around the rubber squeegee.
Get a bucket of water with a little dishwashing soap added, now sand all the metal panels and the
plastic front bezel, if you are going to do your buttons, sand them as well.
Now sand it all down with 320 or 360 grit wet/dry sandpaper (if you used the 220).
The purpose of the squeegee is to make sure all parts are flat.
Wash it all down with cool clear water. Dry all parts and let dry thoroughly. Take your wax and
grease remove and wipe all the parts down (always follow the manufacturers instructions on how to
use their product). Let this dry. wipe everything with a tack cloth.

Step #4 Applying the Primer:

Ok mix up the primer according the the manufacturer and pour it into the spray gun, MAKE SURE
YOU USE A STRAINER. Adjust the pressure at the gun according to the can and lets spray some
primer, (TACK CLOTH 1ST!!) on the metal pieces only (apply a couple of practice coats on some
cardboard first, using a 12" spray pattern), 2-3 full wet coats will be enough. Now the plastic pieces.
You must add flex additive to your paint when priming or paint plastic, this allows the paint to flex
with the movement of the plastic, like a plastic car bumper. MAKE SURE YOU WEAR A MASK
WHILE SPRAYING ANY PAINT, THIS STUFF IS EXTREMELY TOXIC!!!!!!!!!

Remember to practice spraying first, always hold gun parallel to your work surface, don't put it on too
thick, we DON'T WANT RUNS!! Use a 1/2 overlap spraying technique (overlap each pass by 1/2)

Step # 5 Sanding the Primer:

Be careful sanding the edges, you can sand through them in a nanosecond!!

Get out your 400 grit or 600 grit (read directions VERY IMPORTANT!! IT MIGHT SPECIFY 600 GRIT
which is what I use normally) wet/dry and start to sand, we want to use the little rubber squeegee
with the sandpaper wrapped around it (except for pieces that are not flat, like the front bezel). Again
we want the primer to be sanded perfectly flat. If you want it to be perfect sand horizontally, vertically
and diagonally, otherwise just sand all in one direction. Wipe it all down with cool clear clean water
and dry with clean white rag. Let dry completely, now wipe all parts down with W/G remover and then
the tack cloth. It is important to always tack right before you spray.

Step #6 Applying the Base Coat Color:

Ok this is where you find out if all the prep work paid off. Remember whatever is below the paint is
the way the finished product will look, paint magnifies all mistakes, it doesn't hide them. Get out your
paint and mix according to the manufacturer, strain it as you pour it into the spray gun and set the air
pressure. Now spray a couple practice passes on a piece of cardboard, adjust the fan to about a 12"
pattern (8-10 inches on smaller pieces), follow the same spraying techniques as with the primer
(metal pieces first, then add flex additive for the plastic parts). Apply 3 full coats of color. Let dry
according to the directions, lightly sand with 600 grit after it dries, remember tack cloth.

Step #7 Applying the Clear Coat:

Same technique as with the color base coat. Apply 3 full coats of clear coat. let this dry for 2 days
(no longer).

Step #8 Sanding Down the Clear Coat:

Be careful around the edges, you can sand through in a nanosecond

Ok get a clean bucket of cool clear water in a nice new bucket. It is extremely important to keep your
water clean. Add some dishwahing soap into the cool water, wrap a piece of 1000 or 1200 grit
sandpaper around the rubber squeegee, now lighly sand the flat metal parts first in one direction
making sure you don't sand through to the color, we want to make the paint perfectly flat, sand all
pieces this way, you will have to use the sandpaper without the squeegee for parts that are not flat.
Repeat this process for the 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper.
Dry all the parts and check to make sure there is no orange peel or runs and all surfaces are flat.

Rubbing Out The Paint:

Now it's going to come to life. Get your rubbing compound and lots of white turkish towels, cut into
pieces small enough to manage and make sure you don't use the seamed part of the towel. Apply
the rubbing compound in circular motions, rubbing until the surface looks like a mirror, do this to all
the parts, being extremely careful around sharp edges (they rub through quick). Rub out entire case
(it will take some elbow grease) until all the parts look like a mirror. Now do the same with an
extremely fine polishing compound, then Mequairs Show glaze #7. Always follow the manufacturers
directions. And always use 100% cotton turkish towels without the seams!!!

Assemble all the pieces and in about 3 months apply a nice coat of wax (I use Meguairs). This paint
will hold up to anything in the home, it is made for the car.

Well this is it, your case should look Greaaaaaaaaaaaaaat!!
If you are patient and take your time your project will turn out better then a professional bodyshop.

Another warning **PLEASE ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR EYES, SKIN and
an OSHA APPROVED FRESH AIR BREATHING APPARATUS!!!

SpamMan