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The Quest For Cool Cases Continues
Ok, so I have a problem: I want my case to look cool. I have neat hardware inside, why is it always a beige box on the outside. Well
jblakey pointed us to www.colorcase.com and I browsed around a bit, thinking they looked familiar. Well we actually mentioned these guys almost a full year ago but they have since significantly updated their inventory. Colored Cases, Interesting Designs, Transparent Cases, and even keyboards and mice to match. They also have that ridiculous looking penguin case ;) If this sorta stuff is your bag, check it out. I dig the C1 and the T3
The penguin case cries out for a CPU cooling system. :^)
Seeing the penguin case made me realize that having a case that looks like something else might not be a bad idea.
Now you know how much pride we all take in our computers, and many of us want the biggest and baddest cases that we can get. Make sure everyone knows you're looking for a full-sized tower, because you have so many drives. It's a macho geek thing.
So why not a penis shaped case? Call it the Pink Tower of Might or something.
-A.P.
--
"One World, one Web, one Program" - Microsoft promotional ad
"Remember when the U.S. had a drug problem, and then we declared a War On Drugs, and now you can't buy drugs anymore?"
- It doesn't double as a deli slicer, scraping the living $h!t out of your knuckles, fingertips, wrist, arm, etc. every single goddamn time you open it.
- If you drop a screw into the case, it rattles around like a pachinko machine and comes out in a tray at the bottom after ringing a little bell.
- USB, joystick, mouse, keyboard ports in front; video, parallel, serial ports in back.
- The critical side slides up like a roll-top desk to get to the slots, memory, and CPU.
- The front bays remove to install additions -- without opening the rest of the case and without screws.
- There's a washable dust filter, removable from the front panel, and it automatically tells you when it's dirty.
- Cable routing -- one unit smarter than "stuff it all in there and hope it doesn't touch the CPU fan".
I can't even get item #1 in any case I've ever owned. There's more flesh than components in some of the cases I've had. It's like the metal from computer cases comes from recycled cheese graters. These things should come with a coupon for a free tetanus shot.I have one of these two, best keyboard I've ever owned for feel of the keys. Plus it has a lifetime warranty.
:)
Now I just need to paint my case (and monitor someday) black to match.
Sorry, it's Friday and I'm almost off work.
Here's what I do. I have one powermac (9500) and an old Performa 410. The powermac runs two IBM SCSI drives and has two internal fans, so it needed extra help, but the Performa is what would be running if I was sequencing MIDI parts and singing or playing an acoustic instrument on top of them to get more instruments per track. Both got similar treatments. The key parts are Mortite (a sort of caulk stuff that stays pliable and is a powerful damper, metal foil tape, and heavy felt (like 1/2" thick and fluffy- I got mine out of old Pioneer speakers. Or, alternately, acrylic fake-fur, believe it or not)
The first thing you do is kill panel resonances. Heat doesn't dissipate much through solid panels- not much airflow through those! so you want to make them heavier and less resonant. Mortite can be separated into thin strings of material- fasten these to the inside of the case, fixing them permanently in place with a tapelike strip of metal tape over them. The 'bubble' of metal tape over mortite will keep the mortite permanently soft, and any deflection of the case sides will force either the mortite or the tape to distort. Since the metal tape is aluminum, either way you have a very mechanically lossy damping effect. Put lots of these all over the case panels. They kill hints of reverberation from undamped metal panels 'singing' along with the drives, and they help the case hold sound in, because you're making the panels heavier too. They probably really need it.
Next, hunt down all little airspaces that do _not_ contribute to airflow. Macs are pretty safe with this, be extra careful with high-powered PCs. You'll be finding places to stick bits of the felt (or fakefur, or fibreglass- anything that's acoustic damping). The inside of a computer is not only a hell of digital noise, it's also acoustically reverberant- you'll rarely see anything even vaguely soft in there. Your job is to get something in there that will cut down on this grating morass of highpitched flutter echo ;)
For my 9500, the case was much as you might expect for a PC, perhaps heavier gauge metal than some. Damping the panels was straightforward, and there proved to be many little nooks and corner places to tuck bits of felt in. I had to be careful to still allow airflow in crucial areas- tracking the air from vent slots at the bottom of the case to the top and the power supply exhaust fan.
The Performa is a pizzabox case, with a flat internally ribbed lid- which also has a metal shielding layer! This was a natural for damping- it's a mass of little airspaces that don't go anywhere. I heavily damped the internal metal part with metal tape/mortite, then cut up huge amounts of the felt into tiny bits, and made the entire lid a big sound absorber unit, almost solid with felt bits :)
This approach has produced two computers that are very pleasingly quiet. The noise that they do make is not intrusive. I once set up an old Mac II this way and ended up with a computer that sounded like the cabin of a 747 :) it's definitely worth some experimenting, just be very careful to maintain airflow- including convection in major internal airspaces to help establish an even internal temperature, without hotspots.
If you want super quiet, look into replacing solid areas of panel with heavy solid panels- the ultimate material would be something like lead, but you can avoid poisonous materials by choosing many worthy substitutes. The materials used to damp metal panels on cars and trucks are an obvious candidate. Have fun!
Don't misread that; I liked the Fifth Element; while the story may have been somewhat lame, the music and visuals more than made up for that.
But I don't want a computer made up in the colour of the Diva.
No, what the self respecting Linux nerd actually needs is a serious Rack Mount System.
Those that want cheaper options might want to Build A Rack Mount Case, and check out Rack Mount Hardware at eBay. Here may be the true ultimate case.
If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate.
I want a case that is infintely expandable. Need more space? Just add another section. Need another power supply?, just tack one on. There would be high CFM fans that just snap in, an the internals would be optimized for efficient airflow. Fans would be on a different circuit and there would be a plethora of molex connectors everywhere.
My case at the moment is a Supermicro SC750A (which is fairly large) and I have already run out of space. I have three SCSI hard drives, a cd-rom, a burner, and about 8 different fans. Lord only knows how many Y power cables I have and the cable situation is a complete mess.
Anyone out there that shares my interest in making a extremely customizable case (an erector set of sorts)?
Some friends of mine just bought a Borg Cube style case--essentially something along the lines of two mid towers side by side, with some funky stuff done for mounting internally.
Oooh. Two mid towers.
Lots of cases I see down at Fry's are from manufacturers that got their hands on custom molded platic that looks just like Apple's new shtick.
Oooh. iMac.
C'mon! Granted, the Penguin Case is cool, but it's still just that: A case. Show me some real designs, something that makes my jaw drop and go "Wow, I can put an ATX motherboard in that!?!" What about stereo components--hide a CD-Rom drive under a retractable panel and voila, a computer that integrates with the entertainment system. (Yes, Gateway had a monster system like this a while back.) What about glass? Sony has a LCD monitor embedded within a classic desk photo glass enclosure. People, it's beautiful.
We've got tens of thousands of people out there with the technical skill to render three dimensional vistas that take your breath away, or a battered soldier's rusting weapon. Sony does not have a monopoly on new case forms, and neither does Apple. I want to see what is possible and place my computers in what is obviously not a knockoff. I like beige boxes, but there's more to desktop machines. I love my Toshiba Tecra, but I'd be lying if I didn't say the sheer elegance of Sony's entire laptop line didn't blow me away.
C'mon. We can do better. Lets try.
Yours Truly,
Dan Kaminsky
DoxPara Research
http://www.doxpara.com
We're all creative geeks, some of us even artistic. My recent project has been pulling the panels off my case and using some spray paint and stencils. It's a little more work, and it doesn't look quite as professional, but it is a lot more satisfying and gobs cheaper than buying a new case. I heavily encourage anyone with a little time and creativity to try it out. Most cases are surprisingly easy to paint... most of the buttons and stuff just pop right out, and after a couple coats of spray enamel you'd swear it came in that color straight out of the factory. If you feel you're not qualified, let an artsy friend at it... if you're in college there's bound to be folks who'd love to have a crack at a computer case. Personally my project cost $10 for paint and will have taken me 3-4 hours by the time I'm done, including sitting on IRC while a coat of paint dries. ;) The point is that you SHOULDN'T have to pay to have a cool case... my case is Open Source, Open Paint... as soon as I post pics on my web site. :) So my fellow geeks, take what I've said and make beautiful cases that put the beige boxes to shame.
Adam "Fogie" Fogler -- Professional Paid College Student
I'm not the only one who can't work inside his computer case for 15 minutes without drawing blood. The damn thing has some hidden edge in it which is sharper than fresh-cut paper but hard as steel, and the thing slices through my skin so cleanly it'll be 5 minutes later before I feel any pain or notice the welling blood.
Anyway, it's good to know it's the case's fault. I thought I was just an idiot. Every band-aid felt like a "klutz badge"...
I painted my case (with this cool speckly "American Accents" spray paint) last summer. It's got a stoneish texture (both visual and tactile) with blue, black, white, and grey on it now.
The biggest things to worry about are "will the paint harm my computer?" and "will the paint stay on?"
For the first question, the simple rule is to never have your electronic parts anywhere near the painting. I'm lucky, my case has a sheet metalish cover for the top and the sides, and a plastic faceplate covering the entire case front, so I just snapped those off and painted them, leaving the back unpainted metal. It's a good idea to sand off any paint spray that gets on the inside face of the parts you paint, too.
For things like CD-ROM and floppy drives, you'll find that generally the plastic faceplate on the drive snaps off and can be painted away from the drive. On these you'll definitely want to sand off any paint that ends up on the inside surface of the faceplate.
As for "will the paint stay on?" the key things are primer and clearcoat. I used a plain white spray-on primer and an acrylic sealant, and with the amount my case gets hauled around and banged up I've already got a couple chips in the paint job. Now, maybe this is just because I used a thick coat of that fancy paint and put my case through physical abuse, or maybe the guy who posted instructions for using auto paints has the right idea.
I forgot you asked about this too.
Frankly, I copped out and didn't touch the monitor. I figured I'd need a new case in a year anyway and would try a different paint job then.
Painting the monitor carefully with a non spray paint might work.
Taking apart the monitor then spray painting the plastic might work too... but this can be quite dangerous. Your monitor has what's effectively one big freaking capacitor inside it, and can retain a dangerous static charge for a long time (at least hours) after it's even unplugged. My monitor isn't the most solidly made model out there, and you can literally hear several loud spark discharges hours after it's been turned off.
When I lived with my parents (years ago) I converted a bit of the basement into my room, I had the cieling covered with loosely draped reflective mylar emergency blankets. I put an old color wheel (the kind for the old style metallic christmas trees -- some of the old farts will remember) in the corner pointing up, along with a high powered fan that I could tilt up. Add to this that the walls were all black with some old HP3000 pizza boards nailed up, a couple black lights and the effect was amazing.
--J(K) DOS is like Unix in exactly the same way that a pinto is like an aircraft carrier.
They oughta take some of those thar nifty lookin' boxes and make webservers out of 'em -- the site's /.'ed ater 45 comments.
Like this.
Dunno about anyone else, but I found the best way to spruce up a boring beige box is to find stickers and plop them on. Your box then becomes a collection of stickers piled on top another. Any time you go to conventions and the like, you always get crap like this, on vacation you get stickers, hell, sometimes ya even buy stickers. Stick em on! After some time you'll have your own work of art, and once you have fully covered your box, and are going to put stickers over the old ones, you'll never want to give up that case, because not only does it look cool, it's YOU. To me, that's the coolest case of all.
Then if all I want is a text email box I can toss in low-performance components. If I want a high-performance box I can spend more and get the features I think are most important. If I want more batteries instead of PCMCIA slots then I can do that more easily than with the present proprietary cases. Or I could have four serial ports if I'm chatting with a lot of devices [Yes, I know I can get four serial ports on PCMCIA].
On that same note, is it just me, or does "All tomorrow's partys" not actually have a very satisfying ending? The major conflict of the book seems to be igored when it comes to the rounding up chapters! Or am I just missing the obvious? I suggest you read it again, and remember that Gibson has a very subtle end. and when you finally 'get it', it has a great impact. The most significant event in the book is witnessed by the most minor of characters with very mild interest.
--
Gonzo Granzeau
Gonzo Granzeau
"Nothing the god of biomechanics wouldn't let you into heaven for.." -Roy Batty
These cases do look kinda neat, but I gotta ask - do these work nice with standard components? For instance, my gateway Linux box is a Gateway 2000(Yes, I am aware of the irony) which has an internal IDE cdrom drive with the fancy bezel. The case looks very cool, but the only other CDROMS I can fit in that space must fit that particular bezel. I' like to get a case without that problem.
Also - as an aside, what's up with the "call for prices". Does market value really fluctuate that much from day to day?
I managed to get Colorcase.com's sales department on the phone, since they don't quote prices on the site. For all of their cases except the aluminum ones, prices generally run between $79-99. The aluminum cases are $159. Shipping can get expensive, and the rates depend on where you are relative to Southern California.
For more information, click here.
post an on-topic Haiku
off-topic poster!
Aluminum case
our most expensive product
Innovative? NOT!
They advertise that their "Yuri" case weighs in at only six pounds. I say "Big whoop." When you put the power supply and other components in it, it really isn't going to make that much of a difference. I doubt the type of person who'd buy one of these would be lugging it around anyways, all that fancy plastic trim scratches and dirties up quite easily.
There seems to be too much embellishment on this site for my taste, and not in the areas where a good case can make a real difference. I prefer a manufacturer that primarily concentrates on good airflow and component placement rather than weight and looks.
LouZiffer
LouZiffer
I have sold a few computers with cases that I got from www.colorfulpc.com. These are Sunus Suntek cases and the build quality is excellent. The outer shell is plastic, but the inner frame is all metal. My sole complaint about this case is the power supply that it comes with is generic, although usable for most people.
How exactly does one interview a computer?
I put together a computer back in november, and wanted one of these cool cases to put in. I sent two or three messages to these people, asking about pricing, shipping, etc. They never replied.
Their web site indicates that they would sell individual cases, but either they only sell bulk, or this company be defunct, which doesn't make sense since they updated their web site recently.
I think its pretty rude to just not reply. Could it have killed them to send a friggin email that says "We don't sell cases to individuals."???
/VENT>
As an aside, how do you put brackets in HTML anyway? I figured out how to do an ending bracket, but a beginning bracket escapes me.
>>>>>>>>> Kvort the Duck, Lord High Peanut of Krondor
-Don't mind me, I'm personality-deficient and mentally-impaired.
Stripped Olivetti mini cases work well. I've got one fitted with 12 SCSI CDROMs, four IDE HDs and a single MFM/RLL full height 170. Granted, I had to install my own drive rails for the HDs and replace the single huge 250W supply with two small 300W'ers. I hear AS/400 cases work great too.
.sig: Now legally binding!
I've done it too. Short on cases, short on deskspace, wanted a statement. Drywall screws and six different PC mobos. It scares people when I cycle up that powerstrip and the fans whir, the drives spin up loudly, and LEDs scattered throughout light. I ran it as a PAPERS cluster for a while, but eventually I graduated to a full 6x Beowulf style cluster. It still powers up, runs, and I still occasionally use it whan I need a few extra dumb terms.
.sig: Now legally binding!
I don't see anything in these cases to keep all the RF from leaking out. Forget Tempest, I just want to be able to use my radio and TV somewhere in the same house!
--
Time is Nature's way of keeping everything from happening at once... the bitch.
Step #1 Disassembling The Case:
Remove the side panels, or if all three sides come off in one piece remove the one piece. Remove the
front plastic bezel, remove all wiring, buttons, drive cages etc. We want a completely bare case.
Now separate the metal parts to be painted from the plastic parts.
If your front plastic bezel can be disassembled, then take it apart as well, it will be easier to sand this
way. Don't leave the buttons in or they can get stuck from the paint build-up.
Step #2 Trip To The Automotive Paint Store:
We have to pick up supplies before we start to work. I use PPG brand (or DuPont) Acrylic Urethane
base coat/ clear coat. This is Automotive paint (the best) and holds up extremely well (this answers
the question, "how well does it hold up")
Here's a list of supplies,
1. Silicone carbide wet or dry sandpaper in grits 220,320 (or 360),400,600,1000,1500,2000
2. Primer-I use PPG epoxy primer (or whatever is on the compatiblity chart for the paint you choose)
use a quick build-up type.
3. Flex additive- for the primer and the paint. This is used for painting plastic parts, so it will adhere to
the plastic without chipping off.
4. Paint- PPG Acrylic Urethane Base Coat/ Clear Coat (I also use DuPont, real good as well). That's
right we apply a basecoat of color first (enough for 3 coats) and then 3 coats of clear. You will also
need the appropriate thinner.
5. Clear Coat- As mentioned above, you will need clear acrylic urethane as well as thinner.
6. Activator- for the paint and the clear coat.
7. Masking paper- DO NOT USE NEWSPAPER!!!
8. Masking tape- Get it at the Automotive paint store, I always use 3M brand.
9. Stirring sticks, strainers, extra cans, tack clothes, white rags, rubber squeegee and laquer thinner
and aluminum trays for cleanup.
10. Wax and Grease remover. I make this #10 because it is the MOST IMPORTANT PART. You
must always keep your surface clean in between coats of primer and or paint. Oil from your hands
can ruin hours of work.
11. Rubbing compound (get a fine compound, it wont take much)
12. Fine finishing Polishing compound.
13. Show glaze Meguiars #7, this is the final topcoat to make it look like a show car.
14. Meguairs carnuba wax, after about 3 months wax your case.
Equipment You Will Need:
Air compressor, 5hp Sears works well, Paint gun, I use Binks Model #7 with filter screen or HVLP
(High volume low pressure, much less overspray), Oil and water extractor (place at least 25 feet from
compressor) keeps the air clean. Airhose. I also use a separate spray gun for primer.
Step #3 Sanding the Case Down:
Ok now the work begins. All the pieces should be separated. Get some 220 or 360 grit wet or dry
sandpaper ( use the 360 if your case has a nice finish on it) and wrap it around the rubber squeegee.
Get a bucket of water with a little dishwashing soap added, now sand all the metal panels and the
plastic front bezel, if you are going to do your buttons, sand them as well.
Now sand it all down with 320 or 360 grit wet/dry sandpaper (if you used the 220).
The purpose of the squeegee is to make sure all parts are flat.
Wash it all down with cool clear water. Dry all parts and let dry thoroughly. Take your wax and
grease remove and wipe all the parts down (always follow the manufacturers instructions on how to
use their product). Let this dry. wipe everything with a tack cloth.
Step #4 Applying the Primer:
Ok mix up the primer according the the manufacturer and pour it into the spray gun, MAKE SURE
YOU USE A STRAINER. Adjust the pressure at the gun according to the can and lets spray some
primer, (TACK CLOTH 1ST!!) on the metal pieces only (apply a couple of practice coats on some
cardboard first, using a 12" spray pattern), 2-3 full wet coats will be enough. Now the plastic pieces.
You must add flex additive to your paint when priming or paint plastic, this allows the paint to flex
with the movement of the plastic, like a plastic car bumper. MAKE SURE YOU WEAR A MASK
WHILE SPRAYING ANY PAINT, THIS STUFF IS EXTREMELY TOXIC!!!!!!!!!
Remember to practice spraying first, always hold gun parallel to your work surface, don't put it on too
thick, we DON'T WANT RUNS!! Use a 1/2 overlap spraying technique (overlap each pass by 1/2)
Step # 5 Sanding the Primer:
Be careful sanding the edges, you can sand through them in a nanosecond!!
Get out your 400 grit or 600 grit (read directions VERY IMPORTANT!! IT MIGHT SPECIFY 600 GRIT
which is what I use normally) wet/dry and start to sand, we want to use the little rubber squeegee
with the sandpaper wrapped around it (except for pieces that are not flat, like the front bezel). Again
we want the primer to be sanded perfectly flat. If you want it to be perfect sand horizontally, vertically
and diagonally, otherwise just sand all in one direction. Wipe it all down with cool clear clean water
and dry with clean white rag. Let dry completely, now wipe all parts down with W/G remover and then
the tack cloth. It is important to always tack right before you spray.
Step #6 Applying the Base Coat Color:
Ok this is where you find out if all the prep work paid off. Remember whatever is below the paint is
the way the finished product will look, paint magnifies all mistakes, it doesn't hide them. Get out your
paint and mix according to the manufacturer, strain it as you pour it into the spray gun and set the air
pressure. Now spray a couple practice passes on a piece of cardboard, adjust the fan to about a 12"
pattern (8-10 inches on smaller pieces), follow the same spraying techniques as with the primer
(metal pieces first, then add flex additive for the plastic parts). Apply 3 full coats of color. Let dry
according to the directions, lightly sand with 600 grit after it dries, remember tack cloth.
Step #7 Applying the Clear Coat:
Same technique as with the color base coat. Apply 3 full coats of clear coat. let this dry for 2 days
(no longer).
Step #8 Sanding Down the Clear Coat:
Be careful around the edges, you can sand through in a nanosecond
Ok get a clean bucket of cool clear water in a nice new bucket. It is extremely important to keep your
water clean. Add some dishwahing soap into the cool water, wrap a piece of 1000 or 1200 grit
sandpaper around the rubber squeegee, now lighly sand the flat metal parts first in one direction
making sure you don't sand through to the color, we want to make the paint perfectly flat, sand all
pieces this way, you will have to use the sandpaper without the squeegee for parts that are not flat.
Repeat this process for the 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper.
Dry all the parts and check to make sure there is no orange peel or runs and all surfaces are flat.
Rubbing Out The Paint:
Now it's going to come to life. Get your rubbing compound and lots of white turkish towels, cut into
pieces small enough to manage and make sure you don't use the seamed part of the towel. Apply
the rubbing compound in circular motions, rubbing until the surface looks like a mirror, do this to all
the parts, being extremely careful around sharp edges (they rub through quick). Rub out entire case
(it will take some elbow grease) until all the parts look like a mirror. Now do the same with an
extremely fine polishing compound, then Mequairs Show glaze #7. Always follow the manufacturers
directions. And always use 100% cotton turkish towels without the seams!!!
Assemble all the pieces and in about 3 months apply a nice coat of wax (I use Meguairs). This paint
will hold up to anything in the home, it is made for the car.
Well this is it, your case should look Greaaaaaaaaaaaaaat!!
If you are patient and take your time your project will turn out better then a professional bodyshop.
Another warning **PLEASE ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR EYES, SKIN and
an OSHA APPROVED FRESH AIR BREATHING APPARATUS!!!
SpamMan
The dell cases aren't that bad, but they need to put some sort of markings about how you are supposed to open them on the case or in the documentation. We use dell at work, and it wasn't until the third or fourth case that I managed to add a drive without breaking *any* of the plastic. (and I have no trouble working on clones, or macs, or cars, so it isn't me)
Once you figure it out, though, it's pretty convenient.
--Kevin
I bought this old computer (an Intel Intelic). The Thing has an 8080 P, ?16k of main memory, dual 8" floppy drives, a hard drive that holds about 1 Meg, a 12 or 13 inch CRT (white) with keyboard, and a dual PROM burner. The thing also came with the manuals. The machine was originally bought in 1976! I originally was going to try to get the thing up and running, but I've never been able to find any 8" floppies, or the original OS (ISIS II if anyone actually has a copy).
Since I can't find the original OS, and since I can't run ELKS, I'm essentially stuck with almost a quarter ton of obselete hardware. However, the cases are in good shape, I've thought of retrofitting the beast with new hardware. I should easily be able to fit a new motherboard inside the processor housing, the dual floppy case could easily hold enough hardware to completely load a couple of SCSI boards, and the HD housing should be able to hold at least two fully assembled tower cases. With some work, I could probably build enough support to put a four-node cluster inside. As for the PROM burner, since I have the schematics, I should be able to divine enough hardware specs to allow someone to write a device driver for it.
The whole mess cost me $25US, but I think it would be awsome to make this thing into a REAL computer. Check around your local junk shops and maybe you can find some old piece of electronics just begging to become your next computer case. Maybe it might be an old shipboard radio (Oh boy... hook up all those blinkinlights!). The possibilities become much better when you stop thinking about your new cases' original use.
-- Intelligence reports are useful only to the intelligent. -RAH
Check out the Alternate Cases Website where we review a good pile of interesting case designs.
Also check out www.geeknews.com, at the top they have a link to some cool cases also.
Indy
Why do you need candy colored cases????? Rackmount cases are much preferred by all the computers I have interviewed!!! They say it gives them much more space to "lounge around", makes it easier for those upgraded parts to be added w/o damaging something else, not to mention the fact that the computers feel much more fashionable while wearing a rackmount case :)
- Discard the insignificant computer cases you still have around.
- Wallpaper the entire room with tin foil.
- Bolt the motherboards to the table.
- Stick a fan to the ceiling, to get some cooling.
- Preserve the accumulating dust (and dust puppies) on the floor, your room will look like a real computer case.
- Toss cables everywhere.
- Print the specs of your boxes, and hang the piece of paper outside your door.
- If you want, purchase some blinking lights, to be turned on before your friends and relatives come in.
and you will get a big (and possibly cool) computer caseGo check out atacom. They have some great full tower cases, I bought one from them to use on my BP6, the BP6 is definatly the best Socket 370 board so far. If you have that board you may be interested in the Socket 370 Celerons @ 533 (8.0x66) are comming out soon. They will be the last 66MHz Celerons, finally, Intel will have to make a Celeron with a 100MHz FSB. info about the Celeron 533.
(http://www.ms-monopoly.com) -- (http://www.kmfms.com)
I have a biege box. I like my beige box. It will be a sad day in the world when you opressors force me to add color to my perfectly functional computer case. Mange
Or go out and buy a Sony Vaio laptop. :)
- - - - -
automatictaxistopelectriccigarettelovebaby
yeah, it was at http://www.rockcity.net.
- - - - -
automatictaxistopelectriccigarettelovebaby
I admit, the idea of a cool colored or translucent case is kinda neat. The problem is when you add any sort of drives to it such as an internal zip drive or a dvd and a cd burner. As far as I have found, its damn near impossible to find a translucent internal 8x cd burner. As soon as you add any drive, your computer looks like a crappy combination of Magenta and beige.
Cases try to solve this problem by putting that snappy sliding panel that covers the drive bays, but who wants to slide a silly little panel whenever you want to access a drive? Colored cases are only cool if you don't want your machine to have any added components....like an imac, or a doorstop.
-Chris
I would like to install an oven door in the side of my case so I could use it to bake small pastries and such. I think the heat generated in some older desktops could well outpace that of a 30 watt bulb.