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Mini-PC w/o Fans?

blinky2 asks: "I just read this article on Tom's Hardware about small PC-cases. I would really like to have a small box next to my current one for development stuff etc. Here's the problem: I don't want to have any fans in it, and case like the one in the article needs heavy cooling. Is there anything out there that is small and doesn't need any cooling? the box should run 24/7 here in my room and i don't want to hear some noise while I sleep. A case like the SAX01 from Gigabyte would be nice, too. BTW, there is no need for a high-performance box: something like 300-500 Mhz with a moderate amount of RAM would be enough." A while ago, Ask Slashdot tackled this very question, has the intervening time made such a system a practical possibility?

32 of 70 comments (clear)

  1. Fanless server w/ Crusoe by ehikory · · Score: 3, Informative

    NEC makes a fanless Crusoe server, but I don't think they sell them outside Japan. Also, the Netwinder 3100 was a fanless server, but Rebel.com is no more, so you'll have to find it used.

  2. Strange idea by Perdo · · Score: 5, Informative

    Get an ABIT NV7M micro atx Nforce chipset motherboard. Softmenu III allows you to underclock and undervolt your processor. Buy the XP1800 (good value for quiet & fast). I have an old Swiftech MC462 that can cool my XP1800 to sub-40c when I reduce the multiplier to 7.5 and voltage to 1.65 without a fan. I put a paper tube around the top of the heatsink to take advantage of the chimney effect. Remember, air MUST move but you can let the chimney effect do it for you. Nforce allows tiny design because no pci cards are required for a full fetured system. Slow hardrive @ 5400rpm or 40 Gb IBM 2.5 inch laptop drive willl be coolest. 36x max cd or 4-8x dvd for reduced noise/heat. Sorbothane shockmount everything. Get a vastly over rated powersupply 460w and throttle the fan down with a rheostat. The power supply will never be working at full load so you can safely reduce the fan rpm. Should be nearly silent, 800 to 1000mhz depending on how cool your processor is and cost less than 600 bucks. Oh, don't use paper for your chimney, that was just for test purposes.

    --

    If voting were effective, it would be illegal by now.

    1. Re:Strange idea by awx · · Score: 3, Insightful

      A power supply's current rating is simply a measure of the maximum current its components will supply before they break due to overwarming; therefore a higher rated power supply will still have to dissipate the same amount of energy internally and will run at the same temperature, if not fractionally higher due to its bigger componentry with their correspondingly worse thermal conduction properties.

      Want a silent supply? Adapt the output of one from a Mac Performa. Or buy a Cube or iMac.

      It's simple really, you want decent hardware, buy decent hardware!
      Disclaimer: I am not a Mac Fanatic, I do not own my Performa 630TV any more - tis DEC all the way baby...

      --
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    2. Re:Strange idea by Perdo · · Score: 3, Insightful

      The enermax EG651P-VE FMA has one 9 cm fan intake heat and one 8 cm fan exhaust heat with a rheostat included produces 500w/650peak with the fans at full. Turn the fans down to silent and it still performs at 300w. The heat sinks are massive, Representing 60% of the unit's weight. The unit is rated for 650 because of it's quality components and high heat tolerance. Combined with extreme passive cooling capacity, This allows for silent operation if you do not need the unit's full capacity. The Performa 630 used a 45 watt power supply. Not ATX and not enough power. The cube used an external power supply. The Imac has a decent power supply but you have to by all that glossy plastic and tiny monitor that goes with it.

      So..

      Enermax EG651P-VE FMA $185
      NV7M $136
      XP1800 $133
      MC462 $57
      256 kingmax DDR PC2100 $69
      Travelstar 40gb $201
      CD $20
      Brand name microATX $40

      So, $840 for a silent Tiny 1Ghz/ 40Gb/ 256Mb/ GF2mx/ Ether/ Modem/ Dolby6.1

      Or get an Imac

      --

      If voting were effective, it would be illegal by now.

  3. Easy Choice Liquid Cooling by Metrollica · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Hey Cliff, the link is incorrect.

    Easy choice for cooling a small case. Get a liquid cooling system like one from Koolance. It would be quiet and cheap and sounds like what you want. But I don't think Koolance offers solutions for small cases so try a different company. Liquid cooling is the most efficient way of cooling a small case so go with it. Then you can add a fast processor, hard drive, and other extras and not worry about heat.

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    --Metrollica
    1. Re:Easy Choice Liquid Cooling by Perdo · · Score: 3, Informative

      To quote Tom's hardware on the koolance:

      "As far as the noise level is concerned, the new Koolance system is not quite as inconspicuous as the old one. At medium heat levels in the processor core, the three fans can produce quite a racket."

      Also, It's a mid tower not a micro atx as pictured here (This is the propper link)

      --

      If voting were effective, it would be illegal by now.

  4. Fanless power supply by zsazsa · · Score: 3, Informative

    Getting a fanless power supply has been a problem plaguing quiet-pc enthusiasts for some time. The company TKPower has manufactured them, but have been unwilling to sell to either individuals or small vendors.

    Finally, Silicon Acoustics (who also sell the fanless 866MHz VIA C3 processor) have managed to wrestle some power supplies from TKPower. At $200, it is a bit steep, but is the only real safe way to have a fanless power supply. The form factor isn't standard ATX, but it is electrically compliant. If this could fit into that Gigabyte appliance case along with a C3, that'd be the way to go.

    Ian

  5. CPU/Motherboard suggestion by MadCamel · · Score: 2, Insightful

    I think the best CPU/Motherboard combination for your purposes would be a Socket 7 motherboard with an AMD K6-III+ (note the +) 550mhz. If you set the clock multiplier to 2, you can easily get 600mhz out of it. Being a laptop CPU, it's cooling requirements are low, and you can get away with a 100% passive cooling system(Think: large heatsink, no fan, or a very small/quiet fan). Combine this with a pizzabox case with holes or a screen in the top and sides for ventilation, and a small fanless power supply, and you have a small, very quiet system. You may also want to consider lower RPM hard drives, their not as fast, but are quieter and produce less heat.

  6. Single Board Computer from Advantech by maol · · Score: 2, Informative

    For example the PCM-9572 with a low power Celeron 500 (no fan), 8MB video mem (3D!) and up to 256MB RAM. Costs about US$ 1k together with a MicroBox chassis (MBPC-300-9572F) and the matching external 50W power supply (PS-55A).

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    --
    Du Deutsch -> Du gehe Symlink
  7. I just finished building one of the Shuttle boxen by TheAlmightyQ · · Score: 2, Informative

    As Tom's says, the 3 supplied fans are quite loud.
    I went to Radio Shaft and picked up a couple centrifugal fans which are almost silent but move a lot of air. And once I decided voiding the warrenty was an option, I replaced the powersupply fan and the rear exhaust fan. A resister on the CPU fan helped quite that one. Finally with rubber insulation between all the body panels and the fan mounts, and a nice coat of black paint to match the TV and reciever it works pretty nicely.br>
    With these mods the sound is hardly noticable above the already existing sounds in the apartment like the 'fridge and A/C.

    One problem I would still like to solve is figuring out how to push the FSB down to 100MHz when using a stock 1GHz PIII. This would let me slow the CPU fan down even more than it is currently.

    --
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  8. consider an iMac by markj02 · · Score: 2

    The old iMacs are quiet (don't know about the new ones) and pretty compact.

  9. Underclock your fans... by Spoing · · Score: 3, Informative
    Putting resistors on the fan wire will slow the fan down, cutting down on the noise substantially. A slight drop in RPM will make it difficult to hear the fan, while still providing the majority of the air turn over (and thus cooling).

    Some kits with dials are sold for this job, though you can do the same thing by doing some math and calculating what resistor to get. Plenty of details are in the links below;

    1. http://home.swipnet.se/tr/silence.html
    2. http://www.cocoon-culture.com/lib/noise-report/c om puter-noise-report.htm

      http://www.hardware-corner.net/guides/fanbus_1.p hp

      http://people.freenet.de/s.urfer/fan_control.htm

      http://www.overclockers.com/tips746

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    1. Re:Underclock your fans... by Nonesuch · · Score: 3, Informative
      Good point -- also, a big slow fan will move as much air as a small fast fan, at lower decibels.

      As a cheap alternative to a fan controller, I've been using these PCB thermostats to control fans.

      For a buck you get a little four-legged chip (fits standard 8-pin-DIP sockets) that closes a circuit when the temperature rises to around 75-80C.

      Rated for 1A and 120VAC, more than enough for your average PC cooling fan. Just tack to the hottest chip(s) on your board with heatsink epoxy.

  10. You either generate less heat, or move it silently by stienman · · Score: 3, Interesting

    The key here is you need to generate less heat, and/or use a method to remove heat to another location silently.

    Examples of the first method (make less heat) would be:
    Get a laptop that doesn't have a fan.
    Use an older computer or SBC (P100, etc)

    Examples of the second method would be:
    Using heat pipes to move heat away from the processor to a convection cooled heatsink
    Water cooling to a convection cooled heatsink (requires a method such as one discussed recently, or a silent pump)
    A seperate noisy bit located in another area (forinstance - you have the noisiest part of your air conditioner outside your home)

    Which method you choose depends on the processing power you need, and your budget.

    But then, you probably already knew this and were hoping for something in the 'cheap', 'little work', 'high power' bin. Unfortunately nothing currently exists that fulfills all three. If you really don't mind a low power system, then you can experiment with a k6-2 running at 200MHz or so, with a 300w PS. You'd have to put a big fanless heatsink on the k6-2, and arrange the case such that natural chimney effect airflow will go past all the major components and through the fanless 300w ps (which should be providing less than 100w). Don't put more than a single 5400rpm HD in there (or diskless boot, if possible - look at cheap compactflash - ide adaptors), and skip the cd and floppy unless absolutely needed. Use an all-in-one low end motherboard.

    -Adam

  11. Painting the Case (slightly OT) by R2.0 · · Score: 2, Funny

    Has anyone done any comparisons on what a simple paint job will do? Take the same system, measure temp in beige, then paint it black, white, etc.

    Also, would black crinkle paint do any better than flat black or glossy? Crinkle paint might be an idea for the guy who wanted to build a retro looking PC a while ago.

    --
    "As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
  12. Via C3/Cyrix III Processor by questionlp · · Score: 3, Informative
    As far as the processor is concerned, you can go with Via's C3/Cyrix III processor. I'd go for the 0.15u or 0.13u versions of the processors (speeds start at around 700Mhz) and eat up to around 10-12W of power (according to page at sandpile.org). With that, you would only need a nice heatsink and no fan (since it gets about as warm as a high-end G3). The only possible problem is chipset support and it's FPU runs at half of the core speed.

    If you want to stick with an Intel processor, you may want to look at the 0.13u version of the Celeron processor and cut the bus speed down to 66Mhz (if the chipset supports it) and cut down voltage (if possible). That should reduce the power consumption (and thus heat dissipation) by a fair amount.

  13. Covered this last week! by Ratface · · Score: 2

    Just 1 week ago, this link:
    http://slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=02/02/13 /154524 9&mode=thread

    showcased two micro PC's from Dgital-Logic
    http://www.digitallogic.com/english/ products/datas heets/mpc.asp

    Which were both fanless and tiny.

    Does nobody actually read Slashdot any more? How shoddy can you get??

    --

    A little planning goes a long way...
  14. Used laptop by bluestar · · Score: 2, Informative

    Why not pick up a used laptop? 300-500 MHz will probably run about $500 or so. You could build a quieter desktop (laptop disks can be heard when they seek), but I would think it'll be quiet enough even in a bedroom. And you get the added bonus of portability.

    I have K6-III/450 on 24/7 in my room. I replaced the power supply with an ultra-quiet one but not the CPU fan, though they are available too. I lucked out with a couple very quiet disks (one from my TiVo and a new 160 GB Maxtor).

    It's quiet enough that I can watch TV or listen to music and not be bothered by the white noise. And I got used to the noise it does make so I have no trouble sleeping.

    If I replace the CPU fan the machine will be *very* quiet.

    --
    "The cost of freedom is eternal vigilance." -Thomas Jefferson
    1. Re:Used laptop by Graymalkin · · Score: 2

      I replaced the stock 4.3GB Travelstar in my G3 Powerbook with a newer 20GB model last year and at first I was worried something went wrong because I could never hear the damn thing. Even the fans in the sucker hardly ever come on, I can't recall them coming on even after a 12 hour Diablo 2 marathon, if they did I didn't hear them.

      --
      I'm a loner Dottie, a Rebel.
  15. G4 CubeEsque by Slipped_Disk · · Score: 4, Informative

    Apple's G4 Cube, aside from looking cool with the right lighting, tackled this problem. Their solution was to put HUGE heatsinks on the CPU and vid card chips, leave a large area at the top of the case for hot air to get out, perforate the bottom profusely and stand the machine about 4-6" off the desk, letting convection do the cooling.

    They also pulled out the power supply, which I think would be a must for ANY fan-less system. Putting this heat-generating monster outside the case significantly drops the temperature (and provides the user a GREAT foot-warmer).

    Finally, as many other readers have said, look at ways to reduce heat generation - slower or cooler CPU & vid card, lower RPMs on your hard drive, etc. The G4 can blow quite warm when I'm giving it a workout and it's only 400MHz, I think anything over 5-600 may be beyond the limits of convection cooling.

    --
    /~mikeg
    1. Re:G4 CubeEsque by Aknaton · · Score: 2, Informative

      Be aware that Radeon equipped Cubes have a fan on the video card. I have one and it made more noise then I expected.

  16. same problem by Hadlock · · Score: 2

    i've had the same problem, athough i was a big x86 fan, their processors just ran too hot. the second problem is the need for a cooling fan for the power supply makes noise. currently i'm running a powerbook 550 ti, which the fan comes on about every 15 minutes with one display. i'm sure you could pick up a powerbook 400 for about 1200$ and the fan would come on even less.

    if you're just doing coding, might i suggest an old mac LC II? i have a terminal emulator for mine, and telnet to my powerbook (OS X). the scsi hard drive is noisy, but there's no reason you couldn't put the hard drive on the other side of the room (scsi spec calls for 6m cable lengths for that model). you could also boot it from a floppy without any hard drive. a mac LC I or II runs about $5. it makes an excellent webserver also. rj-45 network cards go for about ten bucks on ebay, and 1 gig scsi hard drives can be found used for about 10 dollars.

    --
    moox. for a new generation.
  17. Maybe not so steep by fm6 · · Score: 3, Informative
    At $200 [siliconacoustics.com], it is a bit steep, but is the only real safe way to have a fanless power supply.
    Depending on how well this thing is constructed, it might be cheaper than it looks. After all, what's usually the first thing to fail? Your power supply. Air cooling is complex, and complex systems are more likely to fail. Eliminate the moving parts and the dust-laden stream of air, and you eliminate a lot of problems.

    Also, if you have allergies, a device that accumulates -- and heats! -- dust is not the best thing to have around.

  18. VIA C3 by VortexVertigo · · Score: 2, Informative

    Some of the VIA C3 chips can run with just a heatsink. They even have a list of suggested heatsinks and other parts to build a quiet PC. They are probably the best x86 solution you can find without making this a major home project. You did mention that processing power wasn't a concern and the main drawback of the C3 is that it's FPUs run at half the processors clockspeed.

  19. don't forget some new laptops are totally silent by linuxbaby · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I just bought a Sony VAIO GR250P laptop - for the specs. And it was cheap! ($1500 or so.)

    But was VERY surprised, as a silence freak and hater of fan noise, that this thing must have no fan or something. It's TOTALLY SILENT!

    The only thing you EVER hear from it is the itty bitty sound of writing data to the hard drive. And you know if THAT'S the only sound you hear, the rest is pretty damn quiet.

    Anyway - I've been following the "How to Make a Silent PC" threads on Slashdot with great interest, and I think I accidently stumbled across a much easier solution.

    This thing is a silent powerhouse 1000 mHz, 256meg RAM, intel 10/100 ethernet, 20gig hard drive box, ready to go. Highly recommended. So is my girlfriend's new Apple iBook.

    Look into it. Much easier than the days you'll spend trying to make your own quiet PC.

  20. Laptop by Graymalkin · · Score: 2
    My G3 Powerbook is damn near silent while running even after playing Diablo 2 for hours on end. I agree with the folks suggesting old laptops rather than building a new MiniPC, the laptop would cost about the same and have some added benefits.

    • You get a stock battery backup and the power supply is external and fanless.
    • Comes with a screen and keyboard for any local terminal work you need to do.
    • Few to no fans at all and with enough memory very veyr little swapping is going to be done and even whe nthere is you'd be hard pressed to hear it.
    • It's a freakin laptop which means you can take your work with you easily.


    There's quite a few laptops that can be had fairly cheap I think I might suggest looking into older Powerbook laptops. Older PC laptops in many cases are clunky, hot, and I wouldn't REALLY trust them to be on 24/7. If you avoid the Powerbook 5300s you'll probably land a keeper. A particular model of note is the PB 2400 which is/was a subnotebook. It weighs about four and a half pounds and leaves the floppy and CD drive as external devices. You could stick YDL on it to do your coding work, it has revitalized many a Powerbook that is unable to run OSX. If you wanted a little more power you can find Wallstreet (older G3 based Powerbooks with 12 or 14 inch screens) PBs hovering around 500$ sometimes. Lombards and Pismos go for a grand or more if in good condition. Even if you went with a PC laptop it would probably be a bit more useful overal to you than a dedicated MiniPC sitting in your bedroom.
    --
    I'm a loner Dottie, a Rebel.
  21. Laptop has Drawbacks by Nonesuch · · Score: 2
    There are a number of drawbacks to using a laptop as a MiniPC:
    • No chance of ever installing a faster CPU.
    • Expensive and limited RAM options.
    • You're pretty much limited to the built-in hardware and what you can find/afford in PCMCIA cards. No PCI support.
    • Difficult and expensive to replace worn out parts (floppy, hard drive, etc).
    • The battery is probably dead, costly to replace, and some systems won't run without a battery installed.

    I originally considered using a laptop in a MiniPC application, but I wasn't able to find any really good prices on a working laptop with a broken display, and was concerned that a laptop is much more likely to be stolen than a small beige PC box.

    We ended up using the old DEC 'Multia' (Intel P100, not Alpha) due to the built-in SCSI and PCI bus. These are showing up cheap in bulk lots, and unlike the Alpha Multias, the Intel models do not need/have fans.

  22. Re:Thermo Electric Cooling by man_ls · · Score: 2

    aka, a peltier, used frequently with water cooling.

    Hey-now that's an idea. Water cooling.

    I'm sure that were you so inclined, you could make a purely passive water cooling system...a sufficiently large resivouir of water attached/surrounding a heat sink or plate. Make it big enough so that a 500MHz CPU won't boil it away overnight, and put some air-cooled fins in for heat dissipation.

    Probably be tough to do though.

  23. Does it need really to be on 24x7? by iangoldby · · Score: 2, Informative

    You mention that it needs to be on 24x7, but is this because it will be working all that time, or because you don't want to wait for it to boot up each time you come to it?

    I put my desktop PC to sleep whenever I'm not sitting at it. In sleep mode the disk spins down and the fan slows right down so it is completely silent. It takes about 2 seconds to wake up when I jog the mouse. This may be worth considering.

    If it's got to respond to other stimuli, e.g. an incoming call on the modem, a network request, cron, etc, you may even be able to make it wake up temporarily, deal with the request, and then go back to sleep, perhaps even without needing to start up the fan or disk. I haven't worked out how to do this yet (APMS doesn't seem as configurable as I hoped), but it is my aim.

  24. Cooling problems? by Valdrax · · Score: 2

    I just put together one of these machines myself two weeks ago. Since then, I've had some heating problems and have had to replace a Celeron 1 GHz due to overheating after running a video compression job unattended overnight.

    How hot does your system run after about 30 minutes of 100% CPU utilization? What kind of chip do you have in it, and are you using a PCI card in it?

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  25. BookPC by Valdrax · · Score: 2

    While not completely fanless, various "BookPC" style systems are very small, very quiet, and very cheap. Just get a Celeron 533 or or a VIA C3 chip, and a heatsink will be good enough for these little systems. That's more than fast enough for most code compiling.

    I've used one for about 3 days when I was trying to build a multimedia box for hooking up to a TV before I settled on the higher powered (and louder) Shuttle SV24 system.

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  26. What about central cooling? by jasno · · Score: 2

    How about this: take one big squirrel cage fan and stick it in another room. Run 2 inch ducting to the case and suck all the hot air out through that. Then use appropriately placed air vents to direct fresh air over the CPU and Video Card.

    I've been looking for the same setup for quite awhile, except that I'd like it to be cheap as well and that eliminates most options.

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