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Do-it-yourself UPS

Giampiero writes "Over at dansdata.com some guy named Dan creates a UPS out of some spare parts. To sum it up, "if you're looking for an industrial-capacity UPS solution, and don't like the prices of the off-the-peg options, it might be easier than you think to roll your own."" Of course you can mentally substitute U.S. 110 volts for Australian 220 volts wherever necessary...

3 of 388 comments (clear)

  1. Be Careful by TibbonZero · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Please, everyone take caution when working with high voltage and moreso, high ampre compenents. We don't want any fried ./ers

    --
    Tibbon
    tibbon.com
    1. Re:Be Careful by stienman · · Score: 5, Insightful

      This indicates that something is seriously wrong with your UPS. If it did drive a current or voltage across the input power plugs it'd be powering the building grid which is not only illegal, but those doing so are liable for any damage to the power grid and associated line workers. They take just as much protection for a downed grid as a live one for stupid users who try to power a downed grid, but several die each year because someone's power went out and their generator/UPS/alternative power system was back feeding the utility company when the grid was down. Connecting two mismatched live grids together is fun for the whole family.

      If your UPS is UL listed then there are several regulations which govern just this sort of action. Report the problem to APC, if they don't do anything about it (!!!) then report it to the UL and/or BBB.

      I'm being completely serious. For it to go this bad there is certian to be more wrong with it. I wouldn't trust it to power anything worth more than $10.

      -Adam

  2. Re:Why convert DC to AC to DC? by seanadams.com · · Score: 3, Insightful

    So why not save some money and bypass this, by running the PC straight off the battery (like a laptop)?

    A latop doesn't run "straight off the battery". It has a switching power supply circuit which is not entirely unlike your desktop's AC->DC supply. Most of the stuff in there runs at 3.3V, whereas the battery is 18V or more. So you still need a power supply.

    For desktop PCs, a 110V->5V supply is cheaper than a DC-DC supply.