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Building Rackmount Cabinet for Home Use?

Timothy M. Schumann asks: "I am trying to build a small rack mount cabinet for my family to help with the clutter of our home network. I don't want to purchase a rack or cabinet pre-manufactured; I would like to build my own. However, I have been unable to find a list of physical specifications that racks and cabinets must conform to when built, so I was wondering if any Slashdot readers could help me find such information? Just for a frame of reference, I'm looking for something along the same detail level as the BTX form factor specs that can be found here. Any input on cost effective hardware choices for rack mountable UPSs, switches and/or cases is also welcome." This topic was originally discussed some two years ago, and while there was some useful information was presented, the basic question wasn't really answered. If you were going to try and build a custom rackmount enclosure for yourself (or someone else), how would you go about doing it?

9 of 269 comments (clear)

  1. Buy rack rails by filtersweep · · Score: 5, Informative

    In the music industry it is done all the time- just buy the rails and bolt them to the enclosure of your choosing. It aint rocket science!

    --


    Those that suggest you "dance like no one is watching" really want to see you make a complete fool of yourself.
  2. H" x W" x D" by djupedal · · Score: 5, Informative

    1.75 (1U) x 19.0 x 16.63/20.0

  3. A few thoughts by boringgit · · Score: 5, Informative

    Our old office used a cupboard for rackmount hubs.

    If you are not going to be taking anything out of the "cabinet" too often, you could probably get away with this, and just put 2 bits of wood 19" apart so you can screw your kit directly into these...

    If you do want to take things out (as I would) it would be nice to find some metal sheets with the appropriate holes drilled - they must exist - dunno where you could buy them though...

    Remember rear access (no pun) but I spend as much time behind my cabinet rewiring this and that as I do in front.

    For some reason rack mount gear other than networking kit is usually about twice the price of its non rack mount equivalent - take switch boxes (KVM?) and UPS's in particular - even server rack mount kits tend to be a few hundred quid - and all you get is a few brackets and perhaps some rails...

    Hence I tend to go eith shelves in my cabinets - the advantages of rack mount, but cheaper!

  4. ARticle by TheGrayArea · · Score: 5, Informative

    Good article on building racks. It's musical equipment oriented, but all the same principles apply:Shavano music - constructing a rack

    --

    This space for rent.
  5. SPecifications and Pointers by Gil+Da+Janus · · Score: 5, Informative
    Fetch this Server Rack Specifications (PDF format) document - it has the specs you need and pointers to sites that have the actual specs that will cost you money. But this document is free and has all of the necessary sizes and such.

    Gil

    --
    -- Where ever you go, don't complain, you went there!
  6. Re:Simple Solution by Basehart · · Score: 5, Informative

    Here's a page that I used once to help me put together a cabinet to rack mount my musical gear.

    It's easy to follow and gives a list of stuff to pick up at your local hardware store.

  7. Re:Closet - too hot! by ahbe · · Score: 5, Interesting

    That's exactly what I did. I got the quietist bathroom fan I could afford, and an old electric base board thermostat. I took the thermostat and inverted the temperature element so it would come on when it got hot instead of cold. After a little fiddling with the setting I got it to come on at about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. On average the fan only runs about 10 minutes every hour, and keeps the closet temperature just fine. Total cost, about $65 US (not including the tools I already had). The only downside I can find to the set up is administrating the two servers in the closet. Most of the time I can ssh into either box, but if something goes wrong and I have to hook up a monitor it's a real pain. Other than that it's great.

  8. Metalworking for Dummies by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 5, Informative

    In the music industry it is done all the time- just buy the rails and bolt them to the enclosure of your choosing. It aint rocket science!

    That's right! Buy some rack rails. They should be available at large scrap metal yards, one can get used ones inexpensively.

    Buy some tools. Absolutely required:

    • mitre box and a good hacksaw (preferably a Sawzall or similar), or better still a compound mitre saw
    • good drill and steel bits
    • WD-40 or real cutting oil to lubricate the drill bits and the saws
    • safety glasses
    • file
    • good measuring tape
    • lots of small nuts and bolts
    • angle iron - scrap metal yard, old bedframes, Home Depot
    • 90 degree mending irons to brace corners together
    • bench vise
    • tin snips
    • scribe to mark sheetmetal along working lines or locations of holes
    • automatic center punch to make dimples so that drill bits don't skate
    • MIG welder with flux core wire or regular wire and an Argoshield bottle - nice to have but not essential

    Measure, cut, drill. Use the mitre box and a level to make sure everything is straight, bolt the pieces together.

    To make your own computer cases and rack-mount shelves, use sheet steel and/or sheet aluminum, and lots of small #6-32 machine screws and nuts to hold it all together. Buy a small sheet metal brake if you don't have one ($20-$40) so that you can make neat 90 degree bends. Pop rivets can be handy for stuff like holding the side braces onto your own shelves. I usually like to build things with machine screws and nuts. Once I've got all the sheet metal done, I either weld the seams or pop-rivet them, depending on what I need. Welds are very tough to cut, and pop-rivets have to be drilled out. Machine screws let you play with the design a little bit before making it final.

    Sheet metal is dangerous to work with - it's sharp and little filings will get all over the place. A pair of good leather sheetmetal gloves will protect your hands.

    Also, sheet steel comes coated with cosmolene or similar anti-corrosion coatings. You will need to wipe it off (a rag with rubbing alcohol usually works) before you spray-paint your finished cabinets. You need to paint the sheet steel (Tremclad is good for this) or else it will flash-rust in time.

    If you're working with salvaged scrap steel (which I usually do), you will probably need to clean it. An angle grinder with a suitably-rated cup brush will do wonders. Remember to wear the safety glasses!

    Measure twice, cut once! Take your time! This is no more difficult than carpentry.

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.
  9. Metalworking is not necessary by northstarlarry · · Score: 5, Informative
    You don't really need to use metal, though. Most people don't have the tools.

    I built myself a rack cabinet for my music gear about a year and a half ago. I built it out of 1/2" Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF), which is a pretty good, reasonably strong, all-purpose, cheap, and very consistent (because it's made out of sawdust glued together, basically ). My boss, who is a former contractor, uses it all the time to make shelves at work. You can get 3/4", and sometimes even 1", if you are concerned about strength.

    Then all you need to build the cabinet are: a circluar saw (table mount is best if you can get to one), some wood screws, and a drill. Plus, I guess, a tape measure.

    There are really only three crucial issues: securing the corners somehow so the whole cabinet doesn't wobble back and forth, making sure the screws don't crack the MDF (which can happen very easily), and making sure the two sides are as close to parallel as possible, so that your equipment will fit in correctly all the way up and down the cabinet.

    I solved the first by simply screwing a big piece of scrap MDF to the back bottom half of the cabinet. There are much more elegant ways to do it, and I am sure you can figure them out.

    The second simply means that you have to drill all your screw holes before you put the screws in.

    The third is the most difficult; I dealt with it by using corner clamps, and got lucky. Using a square in each corner would help, or you might be able to work something out using a level, if you have one.

    Rack rails are available at big music stores (Guitar Center, e.g.); small ones should be able to order them. I'm sure Fry's has them, and MicroCenter too, but I've never actually looked.

    The best way (I think) to attach the rails is with carriage bolts, and I didn't find that I needed washers (since there are so many bolts all the way down the rail). Rack screws are #10-32 machine screws (at least, that's what I use), and it's best to get short brass ones -- they go in easier.

    Good luck!