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Which Screw Goes Where?

Anonymous Coward writes "I saw this link over at HardOCP. Finally, a definitive (well, they hedge a bit at the end) guide that explains where to use each one of those little screws that come packed with new PC cases. All that and a 'test your knowledge' quiz in the bargain. Definitely bookmark-worthy."

21 of 471 comments (clear)

  1. Re:Where to buy extras? by Trailwalker · · Score: 2, Informative

    Fasteners

    If you have a really good local hardware store, they often carry fasteners in more sizes than the Borg Stores.

  2. Re:What I want to see... by thefultonhow · · Score: 5, Informative

    CyberGuys sells both every type of screw conceivable and a bin with a screw assortment (just in case you need a particular kind).

  3. Re:Don't forget to bolt the CDROM shut.... by DrLZRDMN · · Score: 2, Informative

    Who the hell modded this 'Informative??!
    remember this is from the same people who braught us How to tell if oyur son is a computer hacker, its a joke site where people pretend to know nothing.

  4. Re:Where to buy extras? by theLOUDroom · · Score: 2, Informative

    OK, so, where's a good place (online) to buy a set of extra screws?

    You're serious? Do you realize how many fscking screws you would have to buy to make the shipping worth it?

    Just go to a hardware store. They sell screws. Maybe they'll be slotted instead of philips, but they will have something. I've never seen a hardware store that didn't carry screws.

    If you're going to get something online, get thumbscrews, so you don't need a screwdriver.

    --
    Life is too short to proofread.
  5. The best part by 3Suns · · Score: 4, Informative

    The best part of the article is the link in the sidebar to Fastener Hut

    --

    -3Suns

    ~~~~
    The Revolution will be Slashdotted
  6. Little primer by Chris+Siegler · · Score: 4, Informative
    Already slashdotted, but I'll give a short primer for those confused diy'ers You generally only need two different size screws: M3 and 6-32.

    The M3 always seem to come in the same length and get used for 3.5" floppy drives, DVD-ROM, CDROM, Burner (ie anything that goes into the 5 1/4" bays). They usually get used to attach the motherboard by screwing into the brass standoffs that the mobo sits on (more on that later).

    The 6-32 get used to secure PCI/AGP cards onto the case, for securing the case side panels, and sometimes also fit the standoffs used to secure a motherboard (Enlight cases are an example of this). If you try to put an M3 screw into a standoff that wants a 6-32, it will probably work going in but not out, which pretty much sucks but we've all done it. It's pretty hard to differentiate a 6-32 brass standoff from a M3 one just by looking at it.

    Hard drives also use 6-32 screws, but they have to be shorter than what ordinarily gets used elsewhere. The hard drive manufacturers aren't obvious about what length is recommended, but 1/4" or 4mm is about right. For some cases with removable drive bays (like Antec), the hex head screws stick out too far and won't work, so you'll need a flat head. This is usually where the bag of screws you get with the case comes in useful, so I try to use those first. You don't want to use an ordinary 6-32 length screws (not sure how long they are), since they could damage the drive.

    Other than screws, I suggest buying some paper washers that go between the screw and the motherboard. Not really necessary, but they insure that there's no electrical short and prevent damage of the motherboard. Well worth the $0.10 each or whatever.

    Since you never seem to get directions with a case (or they're totally incomprehensible), I suggest separating all the hardware into groups to figure out what you've got. It's easiest just to buy the screws and washers in bulk and not mess with all the different weird screws you'll ordinarily get though.

    1. Re:Little primer by theLOUDroom · · Score: 3, Informative

      Other than screws, I suggest buying some paper washers that go between the screw and the motherboard. Not really necessary, but they insure that there's no electrical short and prevent damage of the motherboard. Well worth the $0.10 each or whatever.

      I would suggest NOT doing that. Those holes are designed to be electrically grounded to the chassis. The electrical engineers who designed your motherboard are smart enough to know that people use metal screws in metal computer cases.

      If you insulate one of those holes, a ground connection that your motherboard manfacturer was expecting to be made, is not being made. This typically would not cause a problem, as there are plenty of other ground connections to the motherboard, but there is nothing to be gained by removing some of them.

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    2. Re:Little primer by theLOUDroom · · Score: 2, Informative

      Sometimes the grounded area will be too small (or the screw too big).

      Sure, no matter what area they reserve, someone could always come up with a screw bigger than this area. All this means is to use screws that are the right size. Just as you can't use 6" long screws, you can't use 6" diameter screws.

      Sometimes you'll also get an area with too much solder so that the screw will angle as it gets tightened, so that it rubs against the PCB board (which voids the warranty).

      You let them refuse warranty service as a result of their own manufacturing defects? Sounds like you need to get tougher with your suppliers. Not trying to rip on you here, just to let you know that it's their fault, not yours.


      Those holes are supposed to be grounded, I wouldn't be suprised if it's actually called out explicitly somewhere, like the ATX specification. That spec at least calls for a keep-out area around mounting holes for exactly the reasons you describe.

      In short, I would blame your boards, not the screws. If putting a reasonably sized screw in the hole messes up the board, the manufacturer F'ed up, not you. You shouldn't need washers, someone made a mistake.

      Just be glad the boards you work with don't have 77 screws holding them to the chassis :)

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    3. Re:Little primer by zerocool^ · · Score: 3, Informative

      I would suggest NOT doing that. Those holes are designed to be electrically grounded to the chassis.

      Incorrect. ATX Power supplies have a plethera of ground wires, which ground inside the power supply, which ground into the wall outlet. What good would grounding something to your case do? There's no electrical difference, unless your floor is the ground and your case isn't on plastic feet.

      Many cases (including mine) provide *plastic* risers for motherboards.

      ~Will

      --
      sig?
  7. Re:Where to buy extras? by WuphonsReach · · Score: 5, Informative

    CyberGuys (Small Hardware)

    Probably cheaper to go troll the dumpsters, if you can find an old 286/386/486 being tossed you can probably scavange a dozen of each size. Anytime I toss an old system, I take the 15 minutes to strip it of any screws / connectors / etc.

    The small screws (usually for mounting CD-ROMs to the side-brackets) are 4mm fine, the 6mm (6x32) screws are for the case / slot covers / hard drive mounting. Don't forget to either get small snack-pack rubbermaid containers (about 2" round, 1.5" deep) to hold the screws/bits, or those yellow plastic stopper tubes (1/2" x 5").

    (I really don't understand the fuss about the issue at all... there's pretty much just the 2 types of screws, 4mm fine and 6x32.)

    --
    Wolde you bothe eate your cake, and have your cake?
  8. Crap I thought was being DDOS'd by Grimster · · Score: 4, Informative

    Then after I suspend the site thinking it's being DDOS'd I come refresh slashdot and what do I see?

    Folks that site is on a small shared server, their hosting plan is like a 3 gig per MONTH plan (and they've never used much over 2.5 gigs in a month) so that server croaked FAST.

    Now that I know it isn't a DDOS I'll see if I can get them on something that can handle it.

    (I host this site and just suspended it due to the traffic killing the server).

    They're on an empty server and DNS is updated, with some redirects going on, hopefully that'll help now.

    --
    --- www.f-theocean.com
  9. Re:lol by Grimster · · Score: 4, Informative

    Suspended sites NORMALLY redirect to the control panel but suspending this site didn't help the server recover so I removed the control panel redirect which resulted into a redirect to www.8-95.com (still not sure where I managed to set that at) which then resulted in www.8-95.com getting hammered.

    Now that I know this isn't a ddos (which is what I thought it was at first) I've put the content on a new server that should be able to handle this traffic.

    DNS is also pointing to the new server.

    In case you didn't figure it out I host this web site and have spent the last 30 minutes fighting what I THOUGHT was a DDOS and now that I check slashdot and see the link to this customer's site right on the top of the page, I KNOW what's happening and have done what I can to relieve the load.

    --
    --- www.f-theocean.com
  10. Thumb screws by Mr2cents · · Score: 2, Informative

    Just bought a few anodized thumb screws at my local PC dealer, to replace the philips ones. It makes live a lot easier when you have to open your case, I consider it money well spent (and yes, they are colored).

    --
    "It's too bad that stupidity isn't painful." - Anton LaVey
  11. Mirror by FiberOpPraise · · Score: 4, Informative

    To save you some bandwidth, I can try to help. Mirror

  12. Re:Where to buy extras? by xyote · · Score: 2, Informative
    The PC places will charge you about a dollar for a few screws of questionable quality. You are better off going places that specialize in them and buy in quantities of about a hundred. It doesn't cost that much more and you will always have spares.


    Try here, here, or here. Also here for torx screws as well as regular machine screws if you can figure out how to navigate the site. Has every type, size and style imaginable. You can even get black oxide coated for your black cases. A little patience with this guy, he's not the fastest shipper there is. And Ebay of course.


    For hard drives you want 6-32 screws. I recomment getting them in 3/16", 1/4", and 5/16" lengths so you can deal with any mounting situation without having the the screw too short or too long to screw in without hitting the drive's pc board. Case screws are 6-32 except Lian Li cases which take M3-6 (metric, 3mm dia. 0.5 thread pitch, 6mm long). Floppy drives and CD/DVD drives take M3-6 also. Basically these two sizes will take care of everything though you might find the odd disk enclosures taking 4-40 screws which might look like M3-6 if you aren't familiar with them so be careful. You don't want to cross thread some expensive piece of hardware. Fans will take a 8-32 screw and nut, or a 10-32 thread cutting screw if you don't want to use those cheap fan screws the pc places sell.


    There are different styles of screw heads. Hex flanged w/ phillips which is the case screw most of you are familiar with. Other head styles are button head which is rounded, pan head which is wider, and truss head which is even wider. Truss head screws look nicer and the wider head deals with mounting slot opening better. There are other styles as well. Check the sites I listed for illustrations of styles.


    There are different drive types. There's slotted which is the worst since it's easy for the screw driver to slip out and jab some other component in you pc. Phillips which is a cross tip, tends to cam out at high torques but you shouldn't be using high torque on anything in a pc. Hex which is hex shaped naturally. Socket which takes a hex (allen) wrench. And torx which is hexalobular (that's what the ISO standard calls it). Torx has the best feel for torque control which lets you snug up those screws without over torquing them. Plus it looks cool.

  13. CD-ROM Screws? by elmegil · · Score: 2, Informative

    I don't agree. They looked like PCI Card screws to me, which aren't always necessarily the same as case screws (may not have the lock nuts on them for example). All the CD-ROMs I have use the same screws as my hard drives....

    --
    7 November 2006: The day Americans realized corruption and incompetence weren't addressing 11 September 2001
  14. That is my website...the host pulled the plug. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Informative

    They moved it to a new server and the DNS hasn't caught up. Here is a direct link:

    http://216.180.233.175/~bunker/

  15. Re:Where to buy extras? by KC7GR · · Score: 2, Informative

    There are three standard sizes I've found in use in most PC's (and a great many non-PC systems). They can be found at either a well-stocked hardware store (may NOT be Home Depot or Lowes -- you'll probably have better luck with an independent), or at equally well-stocked electronic supply places. Those sizes are:

    6-32: Used most often for disk drives, case screws, and the ones that hold expansion cards and blank plates in.

    6-40: Often used for CD-ROMs, DVD, or tape drives.

    4-40: Used for smaller stuff like holding mouse connectors in place on some cases. #4's are also widely used for holding D-sub connectors (as used for serial and parallel ports) in place.

    In all cases, the first digit is a code that specifies the diameter of the screw body. I don't think there's any direct relation to the actual size.

    The second number refers to the number of threads per inch. A 32-pitch screw thread looks visibly coarser to the eye than a 40-pitch thread.

    I'm full of little bits of trivia like this. Want to know why helium balloons deflate at a faster rate than balloons blown up with lung air? Because helium gas has the smallest molecule size known to modern physics. It migrates out through the rubber a lot quicker than regular air.

    Go ahead! Ask me something else. Just don't ask me why I spend so much time posting things like this to Slashdot. ;-)

    --

    Bruce Lane, KC7GR,

    Blue Feather Technologies

  16. Re:Don't forget to bolt the CDROM shut.... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative
    -=Linked article blockquote=-

    A processor - or 'CPU' as the jargon-addicted poorly socialised hackers like to call them (anything to obscure a simple concept). The best processors are obviously made by Intel. Other companies make processors too, such as Sun and AMD, and while these are OK, they are not guaranteed to be Intel-compatible. adequacy.org tip: Ask for the retail-boxed pentium 4 1.4GHZ.. This will include a free cooling fan and fitting instructions, and is the fastest commercially available processor on the market to date.

    -=/Linked article blockquote=- Emphasis maintained from original publication.
  17. xp could have fixed it by RMH101 · · Score: 2, Informative
    ... - just enable digital audio over IDE in the drive properties and you don't need the analogue audio cable.

    Go ahead and mark this Troll, but it's true and would have saved drilling the rivets out!

  18. Some history about screw sizes by sloepoke51 · · Score: 5, Informative

    About the floppy / CDROM / hard drive screws and why are they mixed. When I was working for Olivetti back in the early 80's, we saw some of the first 3-1/2 inch floppy drives from ALPS and Sony. Since these came from Japan, and Japan uses metric sizes, they designed them with metric screws. The original 5-1/4 floppy drives came from the USA from Shugart (the original designers). The first Winchester hard drives originally came from IBM, IIRC, and since IBM is a US company, they used #6 screws. When Shugart and others (mostly US companies) started to build 5 1/4 hard drives, which are the same size as the 5 1/4 floppy drives, they used the same screws and mounting pattern as the Shugart "standard." They also used the same power connector so things would connect together with a minimum of odd connectors. So when manufactures started to build 3 1/2 sized hard drives, they used the same screw as the 5 1/4 hard drives. CDROM drives first came from Japanese / European manufactures (IIRC - Sony / Phillips), so they used "proper" screws - metric, not the holdout, oddball USA, still using the now outdated English sizing. One note about CDROM screws - IIRC, Floppy screws and CDROM screws both come in the short M5 4mm length. It seems that some of the early CDROM drives could get ruined if long (greater that 4mm) were used. The electronics were packed right up to the edges, and one could short out things inside if one used long screws. This problem has gone away, since the shrinking of the electronics, and dumb people who used the long M5 (greater than 5mm length) screws ruined the drives.