Slashdot Mirror
PCs For A Workshop Environment?
bryanporter writes "I'm a geek-turned-homeowner, and am in the processing of setting up my workshop for doing odds and ends around the house. I want to install a cheap, decent PC out there for looking up building plans, shopping for tools while I'm on a job, etc. The shop is going to be in a wooden outbuilding with a shingled roof but the building won't be heated or cooled (although I don't plan on using it much in the summer)." Read on for a bit more on what he's looking for -- what would you suggest for computing in a hostile environment on a non-industrial budget?
"I plan on doing things like sawing wood for shelves in here so dust will also be prevalent. Can any of you Slashdotters recommend components for building a machine resilient to cold weather and lots of dust? I was a PC upgrade/repair technician in a former life, so building my own machines is not daunting in the slightest (I've built all my own home machines). The ruggedized machines I've found online are all too pricey, and all seem more designed for avoiding shock damage than environmental dust and cold."
Check out Outdoor Computer Cases
Run a Cat5 and get yourself a Win or X or VNC terminal. Fanless, really rugged. Not too expensive to get a older model ( or used off ebay ).
Keep the 'real' hardware back in the house where it can be protected...
You can also get sealed keyboards for pretty cheap these days.
LCD screens deal better with bad environments then CRT as they run cooler, but they aren't what you would consider cheap.
---- Booth was a patriot ----
Having done what you describe in a light industrial environment, the only thing I would add is a work-through dust cover for the keyboard (the same kind you see in use at industrial will-call counters etc.) You can use the keyboard with cover in place, thus protecting it from dust, chemicals, grease, and other nasties on your hands while working. The covers are durable, and clean easily.
Ignorance is curable, stupid is forever.
You could carry a laptop to your outbuilding as needed -- bring it in when it's cold -- and something like an Apple iBook (with its cover closed) is relatively durable impact-wise; I've seen them survive after being dropped.
Build a fan box using an auto air filter and a high performance fan and connect it to the pc case with a length of laundry drier hose. It should ideally be positioned high where there will be less dust. Positive case pressure goes a long way. And just use a really cheap keyboard and optical mouse so you don't have to care about them dying.
That sounds a little over budget to me.
I was thinking getting a cheap p2-p3 system, whatever you can find lying around. Sometimes you can find them in the trash. just stick some of these babies on them (fan filters: http://www.directron.com/fangrill80bb.html) where ever there is holes in the case.
Get a cheap ass optical mouse. Try to find one that has an completely enclosed optical device. If it doesn't no big deal, you can find them for $3-4 at pricewatch.com.
Get a keyboard leaflet, this is a must. http://www.kador.com/leaflet1.htm
you can get one here for free, if you don't mind being "creative"
Finally a can of compressed air from your local office supply and your set.
Easy answer -- get a laptop with wireless networking. When you leave your workshop, you take the computer with you.
No wires or other hassles for setup, either.
-ch
... why not go completely fanless and seal the thing up completely? Many people - especially those building HTPCs - go with entirely passive cooling so they don't have noisy fans. There are some nice (but fairly expensive) all-aluminum HTPC cases where the case itself acts as a heat sink for components. You don't need a P4 or some other massively powerful CPU; you don't need a 15K RPM hard drive; you don't need a high power 3D graphics card.
Or just get a used Toughbook off eBay.
Mainly due to their low price (can be had for about 400$), and their much smoother exteriors (less cracks for dust to find its way into).
Grab yourself a shuttle or jetway, if you dont need a cd-rom/floppy you can leave the sealing front plates on them, having only the rear fan's outake as an open oriface, and pushing your price down to nearly 300$ (www.zipzoomfly.com).
after that your pretty much home free, every few months you can slide the cover back (three thumb-screws or less) and give the interior a quick air-dusting...
Since the size is small, it can be safely tucked away somewhere more secure than a full fledged tower might go, and can be kept all the more less exposed to dust and other harmfull airborne materials.
Heat is rarely a problem with all but the oldest and newest models, so as long as you keep the arc weilder away from the power cables you should be fine!!
Invest in a wireless keyboard/mouse, and youve reduced your clutter/liabilities that much more.
--Idiots, Every single one of YOU, A flaming mass of conglomerated morons, hey wait a second, isnt that how RAID works?
While there's lots of really, really good ideas here, I could add one more comment.
If your shop PC craps out in 2-3 years (due to the hostile environment, or whatever), what are you going to do? Probably the same thing you'd do if it didn't crap out -- upgrade. Most folks I know usually upgrade their #1 system (the one in your house) every 2-3 years anyway, so just move the hand-me-downs into the (shop) #2 system, clean the li'l puppy up while you're at it, and your good to go for another 2-3 years.
Unless you're going into the shop-made furniture business, the dust/dirt probably won't kill it in that time frame.
Cloned foods give the statement "We had that last week!" a whole new meaning.
Moving parts are bad.
You want to get a passively-cooled system, including the power supply, and just make sure there are decent filters on the vents. With no forced airflow, they won't plug up too badly.
Mini-ITX comes to mind, booting from flash.
Now, any system like this is going to be a dog, so what you want to do is run this as a remote terminal. Either an X-Terminal or Remote Desktop depending on your OS of choice.
As for keyboard/mouse, my garage computer has a Cirque keyboard with a touchpad. Cirque makes a drool cover for the keyboard that covers the pad, and it works fine with the extra layer of plastic. An optical mouse is probably OK as well, but I think you'll be cleaning out a touchpad a lot less.
Display is harder. LCDs are very temperature sensitive. CRTs always have warnings about low temperatures, but I've never had a problem with mine. I don't live in a very cold place, though. 25F happens half a dozen times a year.
HTH
-Z
You have violated Robot's Rules of Order and will be asked to leave the future immediately.
I wonder how many of those employees came down with non-specific nerve damage from the diesel fumes in their offices...
A fool throws a stone into a well and a thousand sages can not remove it.
In all seriousness, mineral oil is non-conductive and shouldn't eat away plastic. If the holes are sealed, the PC does not require alot of cooling, and there aren't any metal filings, it would work. Not the best solution, though IMNSHO.
I like the 'old PC for cheap' idea better; when it breaks, get a new one. The only modern suggestion I'd make is to use the workshop system as a display-only device; run the programs elsewhere and export the display to the workshop. PCs will work fine for quite a while even with metal filings and rat piss in them.
A firewall can not protect you from yourself. Turn off what you do not need. Do not use the firewall to do your work.
For your health and comfort, spend some bucks on a dust collection system (1.5 HP with good bags or a canister) to connect to tablesaw, planer, jointer etc. Also, an air cleaner to take out the "fines" is important as well. The fines can get pretty deep into your lungs and do cumulative damage.
A healthy environment for you ought to be fine for a PC.
When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.