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Electronic Gadget Ideas for a New House?

pmadden asks: "I'll be building a house this summer (standard straw bale construction, earth plaster, the whole low-tech gig). Naturally, I'll be putting gobs of ethernet in the walls, with drops to the rooms, on the roof, and so on. I'll add wireless too, once it's secure enough to keep all of you out. What gadgets should I plan for, so that I don't have to do a major retrofit? I'll have cables for TPZ cameras, for when they get super-cheap. We'll leave niches for putting in routers and stuff like that. What else? What cool thing will be cheap in a couple of years, leading my wife to ask, 'why didn't you plan for that'? Any recommendations for good Christmas light control systems, and so on?"

34 of 413 comments (clear)

  1. placeholder by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

    This is a placeholder, i will be referencing this when the dupe is posted.

  2. straw? by calebtucker · · Score: 4, Funny

    question: why are you building your house out of straw?

    --
    My sig can beat up your sig.
    1. Re:straw? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

      Bricks you fool, bricks!

    2. Re:straw? by quandrum · · Score: 5, Funny

      Shhhh! No one has told him yet, but he's the first little piggy.

    3. Re:straw? by Ferretman · · Score: 5, Informative

      It's not quite like that. We almost used strawbale construction before going with a different product (Polysteel) instead. Straw construction is very strong, makes for very thick walls, provide excellent insulation, and is relatively cheap. The straw is bound together in their bales and the whole wall sealed in plaster/concrete/etc. This makes the area they're in dry with no moisture, and hence no mold.

      Ferretman

      --
      Sic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc
    4. Re:straw? by Digi-John · · Score: 5, Funny
      This makes the area they're in dry with no moisture, and hence no mold.

      Dry with no moisture, you say? Impressive, but not nearly as impressive as the rare dry with moisture :-)

      --
      Klingon programs don't timeshare, they battle for supremacy.
    5. Re:straw? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

      Friend of mine did that. His house burned down, and he didn't care. Thought it was cool. Neat lights, lotsa warmth, and the Red Cross brought him some munchies later on. Then he had a nap. When we woke up, we told him his house went home, and he was like okay with that.

    6. Re:straw? by Mr.+Slippery · · Score: 5, Informative
      Can't build more than one floor.
      Incorrect.
      Looks like shit.

      Straw bale houses are usually finished with stucco, which has been a popular exterior for a long long time.

      Will fall over upon application of very little lateral force -- no matter how strong you say it is... Dissolves in the rain.

      How much lateral force does a typical home get exposed to? These straw bale houses have survived for over 60 years, and some from the 1800s are still standing in Nebraska. They're strong enough, and obviously they don't dissolve in the rain.

      One word: "Malaria".

      WTF are you talking about?

      --
      Tom Swiss | the infamous tms | my blog
      You cannot wash away blood with blood
  3. Since the future is wireless... by rufusdufus · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Wouldn't straw bale walls block wireless signals worse than normal walls? They are thick and are stuffed with organic material wrapped with chicken wire. This sounds like a recipe for bad reception...

    1. Re:Since the future is wireless... by mboverload · · Score: 5, Funny

      No, thats a good thing. If you want outside reception, you can buy an outside antenna. Otherwise it is good to keep the signal inside your house and safe from evil wardrivers (and your stupid neighbor trying to log into to your porno network share and deleting all your Asian...Yes, Bill, I know it was you!)

    2. Re:Since the future is wireless... by Tux2000 · · Score: 5, Informative

      For a new construction, it is silly to install Cat5. Cat5 limits you to 100 MBit/s, the current standard. Unless you want to re-install all cables within the next five years, you should at least install Cat6, which allows using Gigabit Ethernet (10 and 100 MBit/s still work on that cable). You should install some spare cables, so you can add further wall sockets or replace broken cables without having to open walls. Just install two cables whereever you need one cable. And install cable pairs not only in one corner of each room, use two to four different places, depending on the size of the room. Unlike conventional Ethernet, Gigabit Ethernet uses all four pairs in the cable, so there are no longer unused pairs in the cable that could be used for a second device or as a replacement pair. You should use tubes so you can replace the cables later. You should have a small room with a little 19 inch rack for servers, switches, and patch panels. Your initial plan should not fill more than 50% of the rack.

      For a lot more of good tips, search for "structured cabling".

      By the way: It is no problem to use Cat5, Cat5e, Cat6 or even Cat7 for ISDN or analoge telephone lines, and you should do this. It gives you a lot more flexibility. There are even solutions to drive video and audio signals over Cat5 or better, and depending on the quality of the cable, it should be possible to drive antenna or cable tv signals over Cat6 or Cat7, using an impedance adapter on each end.

      Tux2000

      --
      Denken hilft.
  4. Air ducts by mboverload · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Have two air ducts availiable where your comptuer will be. Then you can pipe the hot air from a rear fan and PSU outside. Even better, you could also attach ducts to the front for ice-cold computing during the night or winter.

  5. Not really gadget-related, but: by koreaman · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Put TV jacks in every room except bathrooms. I mean it, every room. You never know when the location of your TV will change.

    1. Re:Not really gadget-related, but: by TomTraynor · · Score: 5, Funny

      And a telephone jack in the bathroom. Hello.... you are with a telemarketing firm, please hold a second.... (sound effect of taking a massive dump and then a flush).

      --
      Panic now, beat the rush!
    2. Re:Not really gadget-related, but: by EnronHaliburton2004 · · Score: 4, Interesting

      This topic has come up three times this week...

      I've seen electricians use pipes for home wiring (and one underground conduit for a light-industrial location). When you put in a new wire you insert the wire in one end, and attach a vacuum cleaner on the other end and suck the new wire through.

      I know very few people who have seen this system, including electricians. They think I'm crazy. But I swear I've seen it at least twice...

  6. not hight tech but.... by johnpaul191 · · Score: 4, Insightful

    my uncle was just in town recently and had the plans to the house he is building. they are putting sockets under the roof overhangs just for christmas lights and they will all go to one or two switches. on one hand it seems silly, but on another it makes a world of sense.

    as for everythng else maybe you want to try to keep some conduit space open for the future. honestly who knows what we will be using for TV or internet in even just a few years. will everyone have fibre in the house? will coax be gone? will CAT5 cable be old? is today's CAT5 cable going to be good enough for tomorrow's speeds? i don't know how much it matters in a house setup, but cable is rated for speed.

    you might as well plan for ethernet everywhere. wireless is easy, but ethernet is cheap to do from the start. if you put something along the lines of an Audrey http://audreyhacking.com/ in the kitchen, it would be nice to have the wires ready to go.

  7. What to do by TomTraynor · · Score: 5, Interesting

    How about leaving an empty conduit so you can snake additional cabling (Gigabit Ethernet, Fibre, etc) for future expansion. Everything leads down to a central location in the basement so that you set that up as the location where the server, TV (cable or satellite), telephone are centrally located.

    --
    Panic now, beat the rush!
    1. Re:What to do by Piquan · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Another good idea: run a string along the conduit. That way, when you have to pull something later, you can pull it on the string (along with a new string). Easier than using fishtape, and (in my not-so-experienced opinion) less concern about cracking fiber.

      When you're choosing the conduit's thickness, don't forget that you're likely to have some runs with some thick bits of cable; for example, your home entertainment center may eventually have RG6 (for the TV cable), cat5 and/or fiber (for the home entertainment PC and/or TiVo), four pairs of speaker wire (to the 7.1 system's surround speakers), a stereo pair of audio signal wires (to the house music distribution panel), plus some stuff I haven't considered. You'll need some more room in the bends to make sure that there's plenty of space and cables don't get kinked; cable kinking can do icky things to signals even when it doesn't affect DC.

      I'm no architect, so I don't know how much your choice of building materials here is going to affect fire risk. Talk to a pro to make sure that the conduit doesn't make your home into a firetrap (by channeling fire to all the house walls quickly). You may need to use plenum cables at some points. But again, I'm not a pro.

  8. You mean PTZ cameras? by HorsePunchKid · · Score: 4, Informative

    You'll have a lot more luck searching for a good camera with pan, tilt, and zoom capabilities if you look for "PTZ camera" (164,000 results) instead of TPZ camera" (2,330 results).

    --
    Steven N. Severinghaus
  9. Consider Dilbert Ultimate House by JPriest · · Score: 4, Interesting
    The dilber author asked himself many of the same questions when building his house "Dilbert Ultimate house" or simply DUH. There is a portion of the site where he lists some poplular reader suggestions for the house and comments on some of the more practical and impractical ideas. This is not a complete answer to your question, but will help.

    As far as my suggestion, I say you should account for the possibility of having a small server room in your house. Such a room would should be easy to keep cool (basement?), fire resistant, and have some type of shielding from electromagnetic radiation (like thin sheet metal).

    --
    Saying Java is nice because it works on all OS's is like saying that anal sex is nice because it works on all genders.
  10. Flamethrower perimeter security by freelunch · · Score: 5, Funny

    Supply your in-ground sprinkler system with liquid propane and wire it to motion detectors.

    And please put it on a webcam so we can watch.

  11. Re:Motorola by noblethrasher · · Score: 4, Informative

    I think this is a relevent link to the parent's post.

  12. Solar DHW & Electric by silicon+dad · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Consider Solar Hot water and Radiant heat.

    If your utility charges US$.17/KWH or
    more (PG&E customers with 2 * baseline
    in Silicon Valley) consider solar electric
    right away, otherwise put in the 600V
    DC wires from the roof to the electric
    meter for when the costs come down
    enough to make it attractive.

  13. Passive solar heating, digital thermostat by demachina · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I'd spend more time concentrating in efficiently heating and or cooling your house.

    If you live someplace with cold winters...

    Lots of well insulated south facing windows with eaves that overhang just the right amount so the windows are mostly in the shade from the eaves in the summer when the Sun is overheard but catch tons of sun in the winter when the Sun is lower on the horizon.

    Then put remote controlled motors on the curtains so that they automaticly open and close for optimal heat in the winter(all closed at night and open to the east in the morning to the south midday and to the west in the afternoon) and for optimal light and minimal heat in the summer(close the curtains on the east windows in the morning and the west windows in the afternoon when the sun is shining in them, and then open them for light when the Sun isn't shining on them.

    If the house is well insulated and you don't open the front door(or have a small entryway with two doors, to much you wont need much heat during the day in the winter. If you want to sink more money in to it you could probably bank some heat in water tanks or such and use them to keep the house warmer at night too.

    Passive solar aside, do plenty of research and find a very good digital thermostat and efficient heating, air conditioning system. You also want to be able to program it so it automaticly minimizes energy consumption during times you are always out of the house(at work or school), or in bed, and warms up the house just before you get up or cools it down just before you get home from work in the summer.

    --
    @de_machina
  14. Time-Out Corner by Takuryu · · Score: 4, Interesting

    When planning your house for the future, you need to have one corner in one room of the house designed to have _no_ electronic hookups at all. If possible, you should also make it into a wireless dead-spot. That way, when your future child (heck, even those might be electronic gadgets by then) needs some discipline, you can send them to the corner for an experience of life in the 20th century (also known as "back when I was your age"). On second thought, you should have as many as you plan on having children...

    On a serious note, though... have you given thought to having one room without any hookups other than electric outlets? I have one room at my house that is my "escape" room. I don't have anything other than the room lights and a desk light in the room. I don't carry my cell-phone into the room. It is where I go to think, read books, practice playing music, etc... all free from the distractions of my gaming consoles by the TV, the new mail indicator flashing on the computer, etc.

    Your mileage may vary, of course... but when your mother-in-law/father-in-law/mother/father/etc come for a visit, you would also have a room that would be somewhat "safe" to put them in... "safe" meaning that your house doesn't burn down when they try to figure out how to turn down the radio.

    Takuryu

    PS: You could help out the economy here and buy one of our fine, high-tech toilets.

  15. Go for solar power by grqb · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Design your house so that you can add a solar power array. Dollars to doughnuts there will be some incentives for doing stuff like this in the future and it might even save you money in the long run. You can add a 2.6kW solar array for $23,000 as was done in Rochester NY recently, it works quite well. You can sell any excess power back to your utility and also check the status of your solar arrays online.

  16. Conduit with Pull Strings by mbrinkm · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Whatever amounts or locations that you decide for any wiring (electrical, coax, cat3/5/6, speaker, fiber) install it in conduit. This gives you the ability to "upgrade" the wire in the future using the old as a pull wire for the new. Then in specific locations that you feel may need future capabilities (entertainment areas, computer areas, etc) add a second spare conduit with a pull string installed for potential expansion. One note, this can get VERY expensive so planning it to meet your budget while maximizing your flexibility is important. But, if you have the money, putting everything into conduit and have some spares in the walls can give you some peace of mind.

    --
    "Don't worry about people stealing an idea. If it's original, you will have to ram it down their throats." --Howard Aike
  17. Excellent Point by eno2001 · · Score: 4, Informative

    I've lived in and completely rewired (electrical) and wire (network) two old homes (1905 and 1914 respectively) during the past five years. The one thing that is key to being able to account for future developments is having at least two hollow channels from top to bottom that can be accessed on every floor. Typically, your plumbing is already run like that. Electrical less so, but it should be. And phone/data also should be. So since you're building from the ground up, make sure to have one channel for electricity and another for phone/data or just data if you plan on using VoIP.

    --
    -"...bad old ideas look confusingly fresh when they are packaged as technology" - Jaron Lanier (Digital Maoism on Edge.o
  18. Some Pointers: by RedLeg · · Score: 4, Informative
    Out of order:
    • First, Wireless (IEEE 802.11) IS at the state to keep HaX0rz out. I know, I was on the task group (IEEE 802.11i) that did the work. The keywords to look for in the marketplace are WPA or WPA2. Now, YOU have to turn the security on, and WEP is not the answer. At this point, I would only recommend equipment that is WPA2 (IEEE 802.11i) capable, and recommend using the AES or CCMP crypto option. TKIP works, but CCPM is the better option.
    • For the home, Since you're talking about strawbale, I'd run at least a parallel set of conduit to each wall, in each room (some rooms will need more that one pull or pair per wall, think kitchen). One should be for power, the other for "media". Pull CAT6 to the wall where you THINK you want it, pull the pull string to ALL of the others so that you, or the person you sell to down the road has max flexibility.
    • Include a wiring closet in the plans. Make sure there's enuf room for at least one full height 19" equipment rack in there. Tie ALL of the media runs to this room. Bring the cable TV, broadband network, telecom, etc into this room and distribute from there. Consider tieing some of the aforementioned "media" (CAT5-6) into blocks on the wall TELCO style. This affords flexibility later.
    • Even if you ignore most of my other advice, NEVER allow a contractor to remove or not leave a pull string in a conduit run. With a conduit in place, and a pull string, you can retro-fit a,most anything cheaply.
    • I personally would pull a ~2" PVC pipe from each room to the wireing closet, and outfit it with a pull string, just in case.....


    If it's not already obvious, I'm advising you to build your house as if it were flex office space.
  19. CONDUIT! by Hobadee · · Score: 4, Interesting

    CONDUIT! For the love of God, CONDUIT!

    If you're really big on the idea of upgrading in the future, you seriously need conduit. It will save hours of your time in the future, as well as encourage you to do more upgrades! (Upgrade all my CAT-5 to CAT-5E, SURE! No prob!) Well, ok, so maybe it isn't quite that simple, but still, conduit will save you the hassle of drilling through walls, climbimg around in the attic and crawlspace.

    Also, make a central patch panel somewhere in your house. If it's already built, put it in the garage where your cable and phone come in, if the house is still in the planning stages, create an MDF room! (Where you house all your patching, as well as your file server and MP3 server than can play any song to any room in the house.)

    --
    ...Had this been an actual emergency, we would have fled in terror, and you would not have been informed.
  20. Wire for DC! by Once&FutureRocketman · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Along side your regular AC house wiring, you should run DC wiring. You could install a single transformer running at the highest DC voltage you wish to supply, then install voltage dividers at each wall outlet, so that you can select the voltage you want at point of use.

    What does this mean? NO MORE WALL WARTS! Also, you'll save quite a bit of power because the wall warts are very inefficient and burn power (1-5 watts) even when nothing is plugged into them. In a modern (esp. geek) house, those multiple small loads running 24/7 add up really fast.

    --

    "Research is what I am doing when I don't know what I am doing." -- Wernher von Braun

    1. Re:Wire for DC! by rco3 · · Score: 4, Informative

      DC wiring? Voltage dividers at each location? Are you nuts?

      This is poor advice.

      1) Well-designed wall warts are not that inefficient. Some geek with an ammeter who doesn't know the difference between real power and complex power may suggest otherwise, but he's wrong.

      2) Resistive voltage dividers are either a) mind-bogglingly poor regulators or b) mind-boggingly inefficient or c) both. Add in the fact that the resistors tend to get HOT, and you're got a recipe for unhappiness.

      3) Linear regulators, such as the venerable 7805, provide good regulation but the efficiency drops as the input voltage rises. Delivering 1 watt of power from a 5-volt regulator connected to a 24-volt supply is only 21% efficient - it wastes 4 watts to deliver 1! It also uses about 1/4 watt at idle (no load).

      4) AC transformers can easily be greater than 90% efficient. Choosing a secondary and rectifier to give you a 7.2 volt unregulated supply and then regulating it down to 5 V with a 7805 will deliver 5 watts with about 52% efficiency, and will draw around 65 mW with no load - far less than the 1-5 watts you've claimed. I'm curious to know exactly what sort of wall-wart is being described there.

      5) That 65 mW I calculated will cost (around here) far less than $1 per year. There are 8,760 hours in a year, which is 8.76 kilohours. A constant drain of 1 watt will result in an annual energy use of 8.76 kWh. Electricity at $0.114/kWh would result in an annual cost of exactly $1 for a constant ** 1 watt ** drain. You'd have to have a LOT of really inefficient wall-warts to justify running a complete secondary DC supply system, even if its efficiency were as good as you think it would be.

      6) Switching-supply wall warts can be much more efficient than linear regulators, and run cooler. 80%-90% under full load is common, although quiescent efficiency can be much less.

      In summary, anyone who suggests using high voltage DC and dividers to increase efficiency clearly knows nothing about power conversion OR efficiency. If you REALLY want to save power used by wall warts, don't listen to parent. Use switching-based wall warts and disconnect them when not using them. If you are really worried about saving $1/year, running a (thousand dollar or more) auxiliary power system is penny wise and pound foolish.

      --

      Ce n'est pas un vrai mouvement de robot!
  21. Re:not to mention secure by lachlan76 · · Score: 4, Funny

    If someone has made a hole in my wall and spliced into my network cable, my net connection will be the least of my worries.

  22. Re:Conduit Was:What to do by gremlin_591002 · · Score: 5, Informative

    I am a pro. Use 3/4 inch conduit to all data/phone jacks. I like to put one next to every electrical outlet. Electrical outlets are almost always 1/2 inch conduit. Three twelve gauge wires fit easily into a 1/2 pipe and 12 guage will carry twenty amps. It's pretty rare to find an outlet that feeds more than twenty amps. You 'utility room' will have your hot water heater, electric load center and a wall mount rack for networking/AV gear. I like wall mounted because it keeps it out of the water. If you home run all your conduit then you're going to have one heck of a junction box. I like to mount it right above the server rack. Usually at least 12"x12"x6". In a traditional built dwelling I like a 1.5 - 2 inch conduit into both the attic and the crawl space. In a straw bail construction the south wall is usually the corridor/window wall for passive solar heating. I would run the big conduit pipe to there so it's easy to pull in stuff that got forgotten earlier. Try to design a drop ceiling for that front corridor, you can hide quite the cabling nightmare in that. :)