DC Power distribution - Nix the Transformers?
MailtoDelete asks: "I have most of my electronic gear plugged into a couple power strips hanging off a UPS. Most of these devices have big block-type transformers which, besides being bulky, are a bit of an eyesore. I have been trying to find a product out there somewhere that would allow me to have one central transformer that would distribute DC power at variable voltages, depending on what devices I wish to plug into it (think one AC input and 9 or so DC outputs individually adjustable). I found this device that resembles what I have in mind, but it does not have sufficient output for my router, switches, and various other devices. Is there a product on the market already that would do this? Can I build one with my marginally above average soldering and electrical schematic skills? Have any of you found a better way to eliminate these blocky plug-hogs?"
"This is Reddy Kilowatt, reporting a dangerous, overloaded octopus connection in sector five!"
"Flyin' in just a sweet place,
Never been known to fail..."
Forget replacing wall warts with one very large wall wart.
Where is my wireless power?!
We wont be truly untethered until we have wireless power.
(Not entirely kidding. Is there any safe way to deliver wireless power? Or am I just asking to turn my house into a very large Microwave Oven?)
- For the complete works of Shakespeare: cat
This doesn't fit what you're looking for exactly, but it fill help the problem of having to plug wall worts into your power strip. It is basically a 12 inch extension cord that plugs into your power strip so that the transformer doesn't take more than one outlet up./ SearchTool s/item-details.asp?EdpNo=392776&CatId=1284
"Get full use of your power strips and UPS outlets with this premium power cable from Cables Unlimited! Just plug this cable between your bulky power adapter and any unused outlet and this revolutionary designed space saving cable acts as a 1' extension, giving you a little extra length to get into hard to reach places."
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The link you provided to the "ELK-PD9 Power Distribution Module" is telling.
Do you understand why devices such as that are used?
A power distribution module such as that is used to power devices like remote video cameras, remote security sensors, and other remote monitoring devices.
Key word being remote.
Devices such as these use structured wiring with data (video) and power coming in to the device over one cable bundle. This is done for ease of installation to the remote site, and because the security camera on your neighborhood Target store being 100 feet from the nearest power outlet makes a wall-wart is unfeasible not unsightly.
I dub thee... Sir Phobos, Knight of Mars, Beater of Ass.
Why bother? If each device has it's own power brick, it's safer. If one fails, the others won't.
If you combine all of them into a single point of failure, you might reduce what you think is an "eye sore" but at the cost of a higher risk of failure.
Is making your setup less sturdy worth a cosmetic fix?
What the parent poster said! I design boards for a living (along with doing some VHDL stuff in FPGAs). My expertise is digital, but I do have an Electrical Engineering degree -- and I could not properly design a switching power supply -- at least that what what I was told by my power supply guy after I tried laying out his circuit on the board.
I have also tried my own experiments in this area. I had an old Celeron 466 system, and my scanner, speakers, and force-feedback joystick all ran off of 12V. So I hooked up my computer's 12V rail to some connectors on the back (with caps attached to help reduce noise). Here were the results:
1) Scanner - worked like a charm. But you had to plug in the power while the computer was off. Otherwise, the whole computer would reset iself. This was my one success.
2) Speakers - Worked, but you could hear the hard drive heads moving. The amount of noise was too much, so I had to go back to a separate wall-wart.
3) Force Feedback Joystick - This was a Microsoft model, which connected to the Game port (not a USB model). Apparently, this stick did not like sharing its power ground with its signal ground. The computer shut off instantly, and the joystick was fried. This goes to show that you need to have FLOATING power supplies in any scheme like this.
In the end, my grand experiment was not really worth it, as I spend a couple of hours soldering and drilling, and all I did was to remove one power supply.
But if somebody DID make a power supply box that had the following: 3x12V, 2x9V, 2x6V, 3x5V, all at 2A each, and they could do it for under $100, then I would be very tempted to buy one. Unfortunately, I suspect that this type of supply would go for a lot mroe than $100.
"-1 Troll" is the apparently the same as "-1 I disagree with you."