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Hard Drive Cooling for 10 Cents
David Tiberio writes "I've bought many hard drive cooling solutions over the years, sometimes spending $50 or more on drive cooling systems that were noisy and did little to cool down the drive. After much tinkering, I discovered a simple solution that cost me only 10 cents per drive... the 1/2 inch bracket. Mounts any 80mm fan to the belly of an internal hard drive."
Fan not included, I take it?
(first post?)
Did we really need an article on Slashdot to figure this one out? ;-)
Uhh that sounds like Microsoft costing.
MS: "We can help you serve customers for only 10c a day!"
Manager: "woohoo. Approved!"
MS: "So your bill is $36.50 for the first year, plus $899 site license, plus $299 Windows licenses for each CPU plus $1599 service contract plus...."
Who knew you could attach things to other things using a bracket and screws? Thanks again Slashdot.
Support the First Amendment. Read at -1
Your data called.
It wants the integrity of its magnetic field back.
*This* is top-grade engineering! This could be used to cool down spacecraft re-entering earth atmosphere :|
Well... Most S.M.A.R.T. temperature sensors are on the PCB and they are measuring PCB temperature instead of the internal drive temperature.
Hence, a fan under the disk makes a lot of difference while making very little to make your data safer.
A 3x 40mm fan battery in front of a drive or a pressed enclosure that cools the actual package holding the platters makes a lot of difference there while not chaning the S.M.A.R.T. reading by more then a degree or so.
It is up to you - what do you want. Show (a good reading) or substance (good temperature of your drive platters and heads).
Baker's Law: Misery no longer loves company. Nowadays it insists on it
http://www.sigsegv.cx/
If you decide to go with this kind of setup, try to make sure you use a fan with low vibration (well balanced, low speed). The last thing you need with a hard drive is more vibration. The drive head is only flying a few hundred molecules above the drive surface.
It may not amount to much as the vibration needs to be of the right frequency to be really bad. But it is probably better to err on the side of caution with drive lifetimes already being as bad as they are.
I personally use a 120mm fan that is mounted on rubber pegs, perpendicular to the hard drives, but not mounted to the drives themselves. This way, less vibration is transferred to the drives.
I've seen a few HD coolers. This seems to work alright.
My question is - why? I guess I've never really heard of anyone over-cloking there hd's. Do they really overheat? How can you tell? When should you worry about it?
-dave
http://millionnumbers.com/ - own the number of your dreams
... but would it not make more sense to either
1. mount a 90mm fan on the front of your 3.5 inch bays.
2. mount a 120mm fan on the front of your 5.25 inch bays.
This way you actually get airflow for 2 to 3 drives rather than blocking airflow with another damn drive.
There is no sanctuary. There is no sanctuary. SHUT UP! There is no shut up. There is no shut up.
Absolutely. That's why on hot summer days I sit behind a nice cool fan facing away from me.
Yeah. LOL. It's not the PCB that gets hot anyway, at least not on my drives.
The heat is in the disc, the drive motor, and related surfaces. Some of them can get quite hot. I still have some (working!) giant SCSI bricks that get hot enough to burn flesh.
Full height 5.25 drives that would burn fingers and break your foot too, if you dropped it. I think it weighs close to 10 pounds. It'd probably still work after the fall but it only holds 1 gig or something. Not worth a bother.
Anyway, I cool my drives with a 120v turbine fan that blows sideways across the whole drive. The air cools the disc side and the PCB side. Works great. Doesn't tax the system PSU.
Sig for hire.
You sit in front of a fan to move that encourage the evaporation (i.e., cooling process) of that hot sweat off your body by increasing the coefficient of conduction of air. Unless you have a sweaty fan, you should be moving the air away from it.
I was mounting the fan on the OUTSIDe of the case. I was alot cooler but that damn drives kept getting hot! I was so close...
Karma means nothing to me, so suck it...
Whether the fan is blowing toward the heat sink, pushing in cooler air and displacing hot air in all other directions, or blowing away from the heat sink, pushing hot air away in a specific direction and pulling in cooler air in from all other directions, the same thing is being accomplished - warm air removed from the vacinity of the heat sink and cooler air replacing it.
The only real difference is where you are pushing the warmer air - with an intake fan the hot air gets pushed usually to the sides of the heat sink, and can raise the temperature of nearby components - with an exhaust fan you direct the warmer air usually up and away from the board. (and possibly onto something else you'd rather not heat up, like your hard drive) Although with an exhaust fan you are pulling air into the heat sink from nearby components, which could in itself reduce the cooling efficiency of your heat sink, while benefiting nearby components.
So choosing between exhaust and intake probably depends a lot on the physical layout of your case. A universal good selection would probably be exhaust that takes the air directly to the outside of the case.
I work for the Department of Redundancy Department.
This is obviously just a ploy to make some money. The guy has an affiliate link to PCMALL. He is hoping some people click and buy some other stuff along with the screw. Can we get back to real news?
That's about as logical a complaint about this article as "sure, I can play music on an iPod, but what happens if I'm deaf?"
Answer: you can't use this hack in your case.
I used 1/2-inch deep holes, and the drive wouldn't even fire up when I tried to boot. It turned out that the drive had really flimsy construction, and they had moving parts right under the surface that were immobilized by the screws. The cheap POS wouldn't even work after I took the screws back out.
If you plan to do this, I'd recommend using very short screws; probably no more than 1/8-inch.
All you need is the blade from an old fan, a toothpick, and a 2mm drill.
1. Drill a hole in the drive directly above the platters
2. With some superglue on the end of the toothpick, insert it in the hole so that it sticks to the spindle
3. Glue the blade to the other end of the toothpick.
Now you see, no need for a fan. As long as your drive's running, the fan blade you just installed will be spinning at 5400 (or whatever rpm) your drive is.
Much cheaper than $0.10.
This brings up a related subject, namely, putting a filter in front of the fan to filter out dust. Antec rackmount cases have a great solution, namely a removeable tray in front of the fan. The tray comes with a spongy filter type of material which is anti-static.
I've tried finding a raw source for this material, with no luck. Does anyone know where one might find this?
Basically I'd like to get a large sheet of this, and cut it up appropriately for all of the various fans that I have. I'd really like to reduce the dust in my systems.
If anyone knows of a source for the raw anti-static material in large quantities, I'd appreciate knowing it. Thanks in advance.
The best way to predict the future is to create it. - Peter Drucker.
Unmount your hard drive (but leave the cables attached) and power up the system. Touch your hard drave - can you even tell that its spinning? No vibrations.
Now, mount a cheapie fan to it, and touch it - a LOT more vibrations. And it will only get worse as the fan wears.
Anyone who mounts fans to their hard drives to cool them deserves what they get - you'll be losing data within a few months, and probably end up with a completely fucked drive.