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Build a Quiet Gaming System

ThinSkin writes "Armed with a newly discovered soundproofing foam, Loyd Case from ExtremeTech set out to build a quiet gaming rig that hits the sweet spot in both performance and silence. After choosing the right components and insulating the PC case, Loyd's silent PC weighed in at a shade under $2500, scored 5206 3DMarks, and is hardly audible from more than a meter away."

16 of 204 comments (clear)

  1. Eh... by GmAz · · Score: 5, Informative

    One must not forget that all that foam will increase temperatures in the case as well as make it a pain to get back in the machine to replace\troubleshoot hardware issues. He should have gone with http://www.dynamat.com/ . Its much much thinner and won't retain the heat.

    --
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  2. Or.... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    ...you could just use one huge heatsink: http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/view.asp?idx=6 4&code=020

  3. Quiet or silent? by MaineCoon · · Score: 4, Informative

    I have built a fairly silent PC that, during normal operation, is barely audible. During gaming, it is not noticable with even moderate sound from the speakers at a medium volume, scores 7800 in 3DMark05, and cost $1800 (7 months ago). Today you could build it even cheaper:

    Antec P180 Case (a sound-dampening, full size steel case built for heat management and airflow, using multiple tri-speed 120mm fans)
    Antec TruPower 2 550 W power supply (in the P180 case, it goes down below, in a separate air flow chamber, so it stays pretty cool)
    Athlon64 3700+. Best gaming price/performance at the time I built the system.
    Stock heatsink/fan. This is where my noise comes from, and I was satisified; 32C/3000rpm idle, 44C/5500rpm at max load after 12 hours in an unvented, uncomfortably warm room.
    Audigy 2 ZS. Cuz I like EAX, k?
    eVGA GeForce 7800 GTX (nowadays, the 7900 GT is same performance but for $200 less than what I paid, and lower power/heat, and the 7900 GTX is more power for about $100 less and same power/heat)
    2 matched Corsair TWINX 1-gig sticks
    160 gig SATA-II Western Digital HD
    Sony DVD-ROM (they make fairly quiet drives)
    ASUS A8N-SLI Premium motherboard. Uses a heatpipe to move the chipset heat into the airflow coming off the CPU. Works fine. No noisy motherboard chipset fans.

    It isn't silent, but its quiet enough. If it's not running a game, I can only tell it's on if I concentrate and listen for it. If the window is open (I'm not on a busy street), the ambient outside noise drowns it out entirely.

    --
    Hunt your preferred prey at Aliens vs Predator MUD. Join the war at avpmud.com port 4000
    1. Re:Quiet or silent? by Jeffrey+Baker · · Score: 4, Informative

      The article doesn't seem to mention some other important ways to make your PC sound quieter. One is to simply move it away from the wall. Most PCs have a rear-blowing fan that fires right into a wall, and the sound reflection is quite strong. Moving the PC away from the wall reduces the power of the reflected sound. You can also mount foam on any hard surface behind or beneath the PC if moving it is impractical.

      Changing the way your PC is mounted to the floor can also make a big difference. All computer fans vibrate to some degree, and the feet on the PC case transfer this vibration to the floor or cabinet with a sometimes surprising transfer function. Getting softer or harder feet, or even bolting it down to a large heavy object, can quiet this down.

      Finally hard disks can be mounted on soft rubber grommets which makes a huge difference in how much sound is transferred from the drive to the case. This can eliminate the subtle but annoying noise generated by disk eccentricity and muffle the sound of the voice coil actuator.

    2. Re:Quiet or silent? by Bios_Hakr · · Score: 5, Informative

      You'll pay a premium for "rubber grommets for component mounting". Instead, grab a bicycle intertube from WalMart for a few bucks. Use 9-11 certified utility knife to cit it into strips. Put a strip between the drives and the mounting bracket.

      Sometimes, the brackets are kinda tight. You can get over that by prying it open a bit. It'll come back together when you screw it down.

      Use all the screws you can. I see people just using one or two per side. Most CD-ROMs can take 4 screws per side; use all of them!

      Don't screw it down too tight. I've never seen a spec for how tight to torque a hard drive screw. Too tight and your dampener will be for naught. If you are concerned about the drive coming loose, grab some LokTite. If you are clever, a drop of rubber cement will server the same purpose as LokTite and costs a lot less.

      Get big fans and run them at lower RPMs. I know a lot of people are concerned over heat. Truth is, computers can run really fucking hot with no problems. 50c is a good number to be happy with. Even 60c isn't a big problem. Just make sure the hard drives are getting cool, fresh air.

      Make sure to select a good power supply with a 120mm fan. There is little you can do to quite a bad power supply.

      As for the other fans, get some baffles or thin foam. On the back of the PC, tape in some ducting to allow the fan to breathe without having a direct shot to the open air. A fan in the middle of a tube will be quieter than a fan at either end of the tube. Between the fan and the exit, stuff in some crumpled dryer sheets. These allow air flow but really deaden the noise. You can also use several stacked dryer sheets over the intake fans as well.

      Finally, take the fucking thing off the desk. There is no reason to have the PC on your desk. Put it under the desk or behind it. You know that box that the thing came in, use that to make a "computer cozy". Cut a few holes for air and cover them with dryer sheets. Cut another hole for the CD-ROM and cover that with a dryer sheet hinge. There will usually be a 1~2" gap between the box and the case. No dust or dirt will get in. It'll be dead quiet from inches away.

      --
      I'd rather you do it wrong, than for me to have to do it at all.
    3. Re:Quiet or silent? by evilviper · · Score: 2, Informative
      You'll pay a premium for "rubber grommets for component mounting".

      "A premium" being $0.25 each?

      I know a lot of people are concerned over heat. Truth is, computers can run really fucking hot with no problems. 50c is a good number to be happy with. Even 60c isn't a big problem. Just make sure the hard drives are getting cool, fresh air.

      60c isn't a problem FOR THE CPU, but it is for everything else in the system. I doubt you'll get through POST with a 60C northbridge (Thank God AMD rid us of dammed hot and unstable northbridges). Your PSU won't last a week at 60C. Your GPU will certainly start throwing visual glitches at you. And your RAM doesn't stand much of a chance, either. Hard drives are the most critical, of course, so keep them as cool as possible.

      There is little you can do to quite a bad power supply.

      That's completely untrue. Open it up. Remove the stock fan, and replace it with a nice quiet 80mm unit. Makes even the loudest $5 PSUs nearly silent. If you know how to solder, you can mount a 3-pin fan adapter very easily. If not, splicing the wires works fine.

      Between the fan and the exit, stuff in some crumpled dryer sheets. These allow air flow but really deaden the noise. You can also use several stacked dryer sheets over the intake fans as well.

      They "allow" a lot LESS airflow, and in a month, when they've become clogged with dust, lint, and hair, they'll be choking off your fans, and your system will cook. I've tried various filters, and have given-up on all of them. They just don't work.

      Finally, take the fucking thing off the desk. There is no reason to have the PC on your desk. Put it under the desk or behind it.

      Agreed. Having it on carpet, and further away from your ears, makes for a huge improvement.

      You know that box that the thing came in, use that to make a "computer cozy". Cut a few holes for air and cover them with dryer sheets. Cut another hole for the CD-ROM and cover that with a dryer sheet hinge.

      Gah! So now you've got an incredibly ugly card-board box with holes in it, instead of your nice-looking PC case... suffocating your PC, starving it of air, holding much of the hot air in, making it take up much more space, making it much harder to service, etc. That's a really, really, really terrible idea.

      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
  4. Re:you're kidding, right? by YU+Nicks+NE+Way · · Score: 2, Informative

    I just measured the distance between my ears and my main dev machine. It's less than a metre away.

  5. Re:you're kidding, right? by crabpeople · · Score: 2, Informative

    you have a metre long monitor kb and mouse cables?

    ( i know they exsist but how many people purchase extenders? )

    grandparent is exactly what I thought. except for the fringe people that hide the PC in a closet 3 rooms over from where they actually are working, most computers are either on or under a desk. definately alot less than a metre away.

    --
    I'll just use my special getting high powers one more time...
  6. Some wrong choices made for a silent gaming rig by jmke · · Score: 3, Informative

    YOu don't need FX-57 or 7900GTX to play the latest games; if he choices mid-range products they will produce less heat, and can be cooled easily without extra noise. CPU cooler choice is outdated model, CNPS7700 is old, CNPS9500/9700 is better choice, and there are tons of alternatives which offer even better performance/noise ratios like Scythe Ninja to name one. The choice of case is "okay", Antec's own P150 would be much more suited though. at $2000 this silent system is hardly budget friendly; too many expensive parts. My route to silence was posted on /. last year: http://www.madshrimps.be/gotoartik.php?articID=286

  7. Yeah, Dynamat by ignatz72 · · Score: 5, Informative

    When I first saw this article the first thing that popped into my head was DYNAMAT. Though the Antec solution w/ foam is pretty cool. But what about the dust that would collect in the foam? EWW.

    A couple drawbacks with Dynamat - it ain't cheap, so it would cost more than the foam kit, but you could build a quiet box much cheaper than $2500 anyway, so that probably isn't a huge consideration.

    I've used Dynamat in my car, and it is also kinda tough to work with. For best results you have to warm it for fitting, and that means you're working with a sheet of sticky play-doh. And you would think cutting it with an xacto knife or razor would be cake, but again, it's tricky.

    Unfortunately, Dynamat probably would likely retain some ambient heat in the case just like the foam. To what degree though? *shrug*

    One last thought - Dynamat is typically used in much louder, more dynamic volume environments - your car with a thumpin system on a street with potholes. Seems like Dynamat is more for serious vibration dampening vs. ambient dampening. Then again, I haven't coated my car's interior walls or hood w/ Dynamat, so what do I know?

    1. Re:Yeah, Dynamat by DigiShaman · · Score: 2, Informative

      Seems like Dynamat is more for serious vibration dampening vs. ambient dampening.

      That's exactly what it's for! In order to reduce or eliminate the white noise created from fans, you will need to use foam. Dynamat won't do anything for a PC other than reduce vibrational noise caused by hard drives and the like.

      --
      Life is not for the lazy.
    2. Re:Yeah, Dynamat by ddopson · · Score: 2, Informative

      There are three classes of acoustic products: Sound absorbtion and damping (air) - this is foam. It takes air born sound waves, absorbs them (as in _not_ reflecting), and converts them to heat (very little heat) Sound absorbtion and damping (solid) - this is dynamat. It takes sound waves traveling through a solid and damps them into heat. Kills vibrations on metal parts. Has an indirect effect on airborn sound by damping noise that is absorbed by the solid and would have otherwise been retransmitted (eg kills road noise in your car). Sound blocking - eg homosote. Prevents sound waves on one side from traveling to the other. May reflect a lot of sound if not used in conjunction with an absorbative material.

  8. Re:My PC... by Schnapple · · Score: 2, Informative
    Where is everyone else getting their hideously noisy jet-engine PCs from? Or am I just lucky?
    You said it yourself that your video card was cheap and fanless. Most expensive video cards have fans, so that's one source. CPU fan is another, but those are mostly quiet. But I think it's really this - most gamers that build their own systems (you bought yours from Dell) will spend all their money on the motherboard, CPU, card, etc. but then go and get the cheapest case and PSU they can find. I should know, that's what I did. I had this decent metal case for seven years until recently. And when my PSU would go out I would go out and buy the cheapest PSU with the most watts. The 500W CompUSA $24.99 special? I'm so there.

    Then recently I started to learn how cheap offbrand PSU's are bad. And I got a Antec Sonata II case, not because of noise but because it just looked cool (it was that or the Antec P180 but that one was too big). The Sonata II comes with a 450W power supply so I just used that. And I booted it up and damn, it was quiet. I used to think only wimps needed quiet PC's. I used to think a loud PC was just an expression of how good and powerful it was. Boy, that was stupid.

    So to sum up, Dells have been pretty quiet for years now, but most hardcore gamers don't run Dells. Some even scoff at Alienware. Personally, I just like having full control - I reccomend Dell to anyone who doesn't want full control (or who I don't want to have to support on the phone)

  9. Re:Other options by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

    The only thing I have to say about this is:

    http://www.silentpcreview.com/

    I'm stunned it hasn't been mentioned already. It's pretty much the only place that you can take their computer noise information seriously and has a great community as well. Everything from very reliably sound tested retail parts to crazy do-it-yourself projects (including shoving it in a cupboard) are intelligently talked about there. I know this sounds like an ad but go there yourself, you'll see.

  10. Interesting use of foam... by John+Whitley · · Score: 3, Informative

    Note that foam generally does a pretty good job of absorbing sound reflection, but what many folks don't understand is that it's fairly poor at dealing with sound transmission. It helps a lot that computer noise tends to be relatively high frequency, which foam is better at absorbing. As an example, an attempt to dampen out upstairs neighbors' footsteps using acoustic foam is an expensive way to do nothing. Especially as all acoustic foam is less effective the lower the frequency of the sound.

    In TFA, the foam primarily seems to be used to dampen internal reflections, making the case's sound reduction more effective. E.g. foaming the inside of the venting duct helps to reduce high frequency noise escaping from the duct. Clever.

    A great solution that I've used over the years is to just shove the computer into a closet, or even into the basement if the space affords it. When scouting out new living spaces, the ability to keep computers out of earshot has often been a key decision maker for me. I even got my last landlord to let me put a 4" circular port for cable passage into a closet off of a finished basement for just such purposes. Air space in the port was filled with foam discs cut to size -- open air passage between the computers and your space is to be avoided. Worked great; computers in the closet were completely inaudible more than a foot from the cable port.

  11. I see a lot of similarities here by KarmaOverDogma · · Score: 2, Informative

    My system is similar to yours. We may have read similar reviews.

    My stuff:

    01) I use a similar case: I chose the Antec P150 instead of the P180, because I use a more traditional airflow system, and never could get into the P180 design
    02) same motherboard: ASUS A8N-SLI Premium Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI ATX AMD
    03) probably the same memory: CORSAIR XMS 2GB (2 x 1GB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Unbuffered Dual Channel
    04) I use two Nexus 120 mm case fans, spun down using zalman fanmate 2 variable resistors to 35% normal speed (about 415 rpm)
    05) I use an IDE ATA-6 laptop hard drive (with an adaptor for the Mobo); 5400 rpm 80 gig. It's small but it's all I need.
    06) I use the stock Antec 440 watt PSU (despite the bad reviews on it, I've never had issues with it: b/c the fan speed is based on temp and power consumption, and my system is so low temp and power consuming, I can never hear the PSU fan, unless I put my ear up to it)
    07) fanless GPU: the GIGABYTE GV-NX66T128VP Geforce 6600GT
    08) I use a dual core AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ CPU
    09) Scythe SCNJ-1000 CPU Cooling Heatsink (this is where the 1st spun down 120mm fan is, the 2nd is at the back vent of the case, replacing the what-I-found-to-be fairly noisy tri-speed fan, even if it was 120mm)
    10) I use a simple Soundblaster Live! card (the card is three years old now) with the SPDIF/digital out for sound.
    11) LG 16X DVD±R DVD Burner 5X DVD-RAM drive: it supports dual layer and DVD-RAM (my favorite).
    12) A Hauppauge 980 ( WinTV-PVR-250 ) to watch and record TV

    I can *never* hear this system, since it's about 23 decibels, unless the room is completely quiet with no speakers on; then I can hear a "whoosh" of airflow. It doesnt have massive GPU power, but if I wanted that I would have sprung the $500.00 for a XFX PV-T71F-YDL9 GeForce 7900 GTX (650MHz) 512MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 card, with it's excellent heatsink and fan system. Since I'm not FPS gamer (never did like those kinds of games much), I passed on that expense.

    I didn't put any foam in (thought about it for while, though), since the sound deadening properties of the P150 were good enough, and the system is virtually silent anyway.

    I already had a DELL UltraSharp 2405FPW 24-inch Wide Aspect Flat Panel LCD Monitor, so that expense was out of the way. I read reviews at silentpcreview.com first, shopped in local retail stores, and then bought most components from Newegg.com (except the fans and fanmates from endpcnoise.com). The whole system cost me about $1,200.00, ($2,000 if you include the monitor) which I found reasonable, especially for an almost completely quiet system.

    Hope this helps anyone looking for a system out there,

    --
    uR iGn0ranc3, Their Power