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Lab Created Diamonds Come to Market

E writes "Technology is putting some new sparkle in the world of diamonds. Until recently, naturally occurring, mined diamonds were unchallenged in their quality and desirability. But now laboratory-created diamonds, which possess the same properties as naturals, are poised to give them a run for their money. A new company, Adia Diamonds, has quite the variety in their inventory. They have the same chemical and physical properties as a mined diamond and come in white, blue and yellow. Both GIA and EGL grading labs are offering certifications for lab created diamonds. Seems like a good, high-tech alternative to the DeBeers diamond cartel."

17 of 578 comments (clear)

  1. anything is a good alternative to DeBeers by yagu · · Score: 5, Informative

    Lab manufactured diamonds is an interesting concept, but if DeBeers gets its metaphorical finger in machine, it will ensure these diamonds either never get manufactured, or if they are manufactured never hit the marketplace with the name "diamond". The DeBeers monopoly is too dear and too powerful for disruption like this.

    You can argue the "blood diamond" political aspects of the diamond mining industry, but even tossing that aside DeBeers' behavior and domination and control of the diamond industry transcends any other monopoly. There's a reason DeBeers isn't a U.S. company (among many others...), DeBeers' monopolistic practices and domination and heavy handed control of the diamond market would not likely pass legal muster in the U.S.

    If you ever get a chance (/. "girlfriend" jokes aside), buy the lab diamonds, or buy your to-be a genuinely rare gem such as a Ruby (diamonds are not rare).

    The sooner the myth that is diamonds is de-mythed, the better. Read more about diamond myths here.

  2. A great article on the subject by g_adams27 · · Score: 4, Informative

    Wired had a great article on the subject of synthetic diamonds a few years ago. An excerpt:

    Back at the Diamond High Council, I open the film canister and shake the Apollo stones onto the table. Van Royen tentatively picks one up with a pair of elongated tweezers and takes it to a microscope. "Unbelievable," he says slowly as he peers through the lens. "May I study it?" I agree to let him keep the gems overnight. When we meet the next morning in the lobby of the High Council, Van Royen looks tired. He admits to staying up almost all night scrutinizing the stones. "I think I can identify it," he says hopefully. "It's too perfect to be natural. Things in nature, they have flaws. The growth structure of this diamond is flawless."
  3. Re:Natural Complexity by Dun+Malg · · Score: 4, Informative
    There's a reason why imitations (exempli gratia: CGI) lack that je ne sais quoi: we are unable to reproduce the complexity of naturally occuring systems.
    There is no difference whatsoever between a mined diamond and a man-made one (other than that the man made ones have fewer flaws). The is no "je ne sais quoi" that distinguishes one from the other. The reason man-made diamonds can't get traction is that the mined diamond suppliers have a very tight grip on the supply channel and synthetic diamonds are not available in large enough quantities for any large gem buyer to risk losing his place as a De Beers sightholder. The threat to the diamond mining industry is very real, though. De Beers is actively promoting the propaganda that man-made diamonds aren't "real"-- despite the fact that they're generally of higher quality in terms of clarity and uniformity.
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    If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
  4. Much more detailed article by Gregoyle · · Score: 5, Informative

    Wired did a much more in depth article on this subject a couple years ago.

    One thing to keep in mind is that saying the lab-created diamonds possess the same qualities as natural diamonds is a little misleading. They are certainly diamonds, in that they are the same type of crystal form of carbon, but they *are* distinguishable from natural diamonds.

    What I find very interesting is just how expensive and advanced equipment needs to be to tell the difference, and how much Debeers is shelling out to ensure that the biggest diamond testing labs have that equipment. Check out the linked article for more on that.

    If you want to do something about challenging the DeBeers cartel and their questionable business practices, check out Canadian Diamonds, also here and here.

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    "He's more machine now than man, twisted and evil."

  5. Indistinguishable? by Nefarious+Wheel · · Score: 5, Informative
    My late father was a jeweler and certified diamond rater (whatever that meant, but he studied hard for it). He said that all natural diamonds and sapphires, no matter how pure they look, have little inclusions and flaws in them. The way to tell them from the synthetic gems was that the synthetic gems were too perfect, and didn't have those microscopic flaws.

    He also told me how to tell an artificial pearl from a real one -- the real one, he said, will dissolve in vinegar. Strange sense of humor he had.

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    1. Re:Indistinguishable? by Jane+Q.+Public · · Score: 5, Informative

      That was not a joke. Back in the day it was a relatively easy and useful way to tell a genuine batch of pearls from fakes. Take random samples and see if they would begin to dissolve.

      Of course you would not want to dissolve the whole pearl. That would be silly.

    2. Re:Indistinguishable? by anagama · · Score: 4, Informative
      So AFAIK, right now, the only ways to tell synthetics from fakes are (A) they are flawless* or (B) they fluoresce.

      Check it out:
      http://www.adiadiamonds.com/content/frequently-ask ed-questions/#fluorescence
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      What changed under Obama? Nothing Good
    3. Re:Indistinguishable? by Ash+Vince · · Score: 4, Informative

      Since I have read this far down and nobody has posted a decent explanation on the difference between a Debeers mined diamond and a made one I thought I would post some five year old info about where they used to be up to. The most advanced people at making artificial diamonds was a lab in Russia.

      As far as I can remember the main problem they were encountering was Nitrogen. In a natural diamond which forms over a long period of time the nitrogen atoms would drift together over time and end up clumped together and form a seperate molecule (N4) of pure nitrogen embeded in the carbon lattice. This nitrogen molecule absorbed some light from the carbon but was otherwise undetectable.

      In the early attempts at making artificial diamonds they left the nitrogen in but it did not migrate together so ended up actually part of the carbon lattice. This gave the artificial diamonds a slight yellow tint as the nitrogen also emitted light back into the diamond crystal lattice. The Russian solution was to remove all the nitrogen at the start of the process.

      This produced perfect, pure carbon diamonds with a perfect crystal lattice. These diamonds however had a the property of trapping light so that when the light falling on them ceased (you switched the light off) they fluoresced, giving off the light they had been trapping with in the crystal lattice due to total internal reflection. Now this may have made them really cool but it did make them different to naturally occuring diamond.

      What the Russian team really needed was a way to leave in the Nitrogen impurity but so that it did not ever interupt the carbon crystal lattice.

      At this point De Beers was already shitting themselves and started looking at ways of marking there diamonds to prove they were mined diamonds not some knocked up in a lab. They semed to have a number of ideas such as laser etching the DeBeers trademark on each stone and similar but I dont know what the ultimately chose.

      If someone has some more info, please post it but don't start it with your dad, grandad, etc used to be jeweler as this just makes it hopelessly outdated. These new lab made diamonds are not like anything De Beers have had to deal with before (Cubic Zirconia, etc) as they are actually made of carbon which is formed into a diamond lattice using super high pressures but in a lab rather than underground.

      This information came from some sort of TV documentary I saw a number of years ago.

      I did however just throw some stuff at google and this is what came back -

      http://www.bbc.co.uk/science/horizon/2004/diamondl abstrans.shtml - The program I watched on BBC and have summarised (badly) above.

      (Please note - my summary is from memory so the info on the above link will be better.)

      http://www.russianbrilliants.net/introduction.html
      http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/1999/08/99081 7092046.htm
      http://www.wired.com/wired/archive/11.09/diamond.h tml

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  6. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by Dun+Malg · · Score: 4, Informative
    Actually, De Beers is terrified. Over the last decade, they have pushed "genuine diamonds". Cool. A good jeweler and a bit testing could determine the difference between natural and artificial.
    No, there is no non-destructive* way to reliably tell man made diamond from mined based on any material characteristics. The only way even a "good jeweler" can tell the difference is by checking for the official De Beers registry number laser etched on one of the facet edges. All part of their "genuine diamond" propaganda campaign. "Fake" diamonds are not registered.

    * mass spectrometry might do it by detecting certain trace elements, but in the end all diamonds are nothing more than tetrahedrally bonded carbon.
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    If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
  7. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by ravenshrike · · Score: 5, Informative

    Ding!. The DeBeers cartel has over a 400 yrs supply of diamond stock. If artificial diamond tech takes off and they can't get a stranglehold, that stock becomes essentially worthless.

  8. Not clear which process makes these. by Animats · · Score: 4, Informative

    It's not clear from the Adia diamonds whether these are grown like semiconductor wafers or made in high-pressure presses. Gemesys has a Florida plant making gemstones in high-pressure presses. They finally caved in to deBeers and laser-engraves their stones with some ID information. The FTC caved in to the diamond industry and insists they be called "cultured diamonds". They're distinguishable from natural diamonds by their absorbtion spectrum, and deBeers has a tester for this

    Grown synthetics were still experimental when Wired wrote their article, but that's the more promising process. Those, in theory, can be indistinguishable from natural ones.

    The diamond industry had painted itself into a corner with the concept that the most valuable diamonds are "flawless". You do not want to be in that marketing position when going up against the technology that makes semiconductor wafers. Look for PR about how real diamonds have "natural flaws".

    Tied to this is the "Kimberly Process", the agreement supposedly intended to restrict the flow of conflict diamonds. This requires source documentation to travel along with diamonds as they pass through the distribution chain. Previously, diamonds were generic; nobody cared where they came from. The Kimberly Process has the effect of making it much harder to insert large quantities of synthetic diamonds into the distribution system.

    Incidentally, most industrial diamonds have been synthetic for years. Annual synthetic production is around 600 metric tons, most of it in the form of abrasive grits for cutting wheels and such. When you need to cut a slot in concrete pavement, you use a diamond cutting wheel.

  9. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by Hawkxor · · Score: 4, Informative

    Artificial diamonds now have of these impurities added, just so that they can be indistinguishable (except for some trace elements, as mentioned). There is no jeweler that could tell them apart - and de beers has resorted to putting id tags on their diamonds for this very reason.

  10. Re:The purpose of the diamond ritual... by Beryllium+Sphere(tm) · · Score: 4, Informative

    I think it was David Friedman who claimed that the ritual serves an even more specific purpose.

    A lifetime ago, the ideal was that a "good" girl would wait until marriage, but in practice many women with normal libidos compromised on waiting until engagement. This led (duh) to guys proposing in order to get laid and then for some reason changing their mind about actually getting married. Laws were actually passed to protect women against having sex with dishonest people.

    The ring, then, he argues, was a nonrefundable deposit to provide some evidence that the guy would actually go through with the marriage.

  11. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by Ubergrendle · · Score: 4, Informative

    10 Reasons never to accept a diamond, published in The Economist.

    And then of course, the classic Atlantic article about the DeBeers Diamond cartel, and how the manufacture need.

    If diamonds are so special, how come they're 20x more common than sapphires but come at such a high premium?

    --
    John Maynard Keynes: "When the facts change, I change my mind. What do you do?"
  12. Pearls by jenara · · Score: 5, Informative

    You can also tell real pearls from fake ones by rubbing them against your teeth. The real ones feel grainy (like sand) and the fake ones are smooth. I'm a big fan of pearls, and the thought of them dissolving in vinegar makes my skin crawl.

  13. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by mottie · · Score: 4, Informative

    the story of the most successful marketing campaign in history

    Right you are.. and here's the book to prove it:

    The Diamond Invention

  14. Re:Real importance beyond jewelry? by dhovis · · Score: 5, Informative

    Actually that tester tests the thermal conductivity of the stone. Cubic Zirconia is virtually indistinguishable from diamond. A really well trained gemologist can tell the difference some of the time, but not the people who work in jewelry stores.

    OTOH, diamond has a very high thermal conductivity and cubic zirconia does not. When CZ first hit the market, jewelers really flipped out, because people could buy diamond rings, replace the diamond with CZ, and then return the ring with the CZ for full price. At first, the only surefire test was to measure the density, but that required removing the stone from the setting, something that takes some time. The company that created CZ then also produced a tester which at its tip had a small heater and a temperature probe a little ways away. If you touch the tip to a diamond, heat will transfer from the heater to the probe, whereas with a CZ, it will not. The company made more money off the patent for the detector than they ever did off CZ.

    Of note, a few years back, a new lab-created diamond alternative hit the market: Moissanite. It is a form of silicon carbide, and it actually has a higher index of refraction than diamond (it sparkles more). It also has a high thermal conductivity, so it would fool the old testers. Moissanite is easier to distinguish from diamond under a loupe, however. It is birefringent.

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