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Appliances Hog More Energy Than High-Tech Gadgets

Carl Bialik from WSJ writes "A tech columnist looked around his home and wondered, 'All these TVs and cable boxes and computers and computer gear and chargers for various adapters have to be sucking up a lot of power, right?' So WSJ.com's Jason Fry bought a power meter to find the biggest power hogs in his home. They weren't his newfangled gadgets: 'The heavily used agglomeration of PC / two monitors / printer / hard drive / speakers in my downstairs study costs a bit more than $10 a month. The PC in our bedroom costs about $6 a month. The upstairs laptop? Less than $1 — a bit more than other always-on gadgets such as the router, cable modem, wireless repeater and Airport Express. So what were our apartment's power hogs? The lights and the dryer. I estimate our lights cost us around $30 a month, nearly a third of that from a chandelier with eight bulbs. Then there's the dryer. I don't know exactly how many watts it uses, but estimate it's costing us at least $25 a month.'"

81 of 688 comments (clear)

  1. Dual Use Tech by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 3, Funny

    If he hung his wet laundry on that chandelier's hot bulbs, he could save $25 a month.

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    make install -not war

    1. Re:Dual Use Tech by Jarjarthejedi · · Score: 2, Funny

      All he really needs to do is buy a high power laptop, preferably Dell with Sony made batteries, and set that on top of his clothes, they'll be dry faster than they would with the dryer and it would cost less!

      Yet another reason to upgrade, multiple uses! "Hey dude! You're laptop gets hot!" "Yeah, I disabled the fans so I could dry my clothes and cook my food with it, now I only need it, a washer and a dishwasher and I've got everything I need!"

      --
      There are two kinds of fool One says 'This is old therefore good' Another says 'This is new therefore better'- Dean Ing
    2. Re:Dual Use Tech by cayenne8 · · Score: 4, Interesting
      I just use a gas dryer, gas heat, and gas stove.

      There's really no other way to cook (if you like to cook) than to use gas stovetop. Electric burners suck....just no heat control there.

      I've always been curious why more people don't use gas. Is it not readily available across the nation? I've lived in the SE and deep south mostly....and have pretty much refused to even rent from the few places that didn't have gas, tho, I rarely rent in apt. complexes...mostly I rent houses or lived in a part of a house built as a double (common in NOLA). This worked out for me in Katrina...we had 7ft of water at my place, the neighbors downstairs were totally washed out, but, I had the top floor, and nothing happened to my stuff...I was more worried about it getting looted, but, was lucky and got my stuff all moved out before they got to it...

      --
      Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
    3. Re:Dual Use Tech by julesh · · Score: 3, Informative

      There's really no other way to cook (if you like to cook) than to use gas stovetop. Electric burners suck....just no heat control there.

      Have you tried an induction cooker? I used to think the same way as you, until I first tried one. To my surprise, it is even more responsive than the gas burner I previously had (I don't know how that works, but it does).

      I've always been curious why more people don't use gas.

      I think safety issues are the prime concern, these days. Cooking on an open flame just seems risky.

    4. Re:Dual Use Tech by inviolet · · Score: 3, Insightful
      I've always been curious why more people don't use gas. Is it not readily available across the nation? I've lived in the SE and deep south mostly....and have pretty much refused to even rent from the few places that didn't have gas, tho, I rarely rent in apt. complexes...mostly I rent houses or lived in a part of a house built as a double (common in NOLA).

      Bingo. In a typical apartment complex with 16 units per building, all fire risks are multiplied 16x, because a single tenant can burn down all 16 tenants' apartments. So anything that significantly lowers the fire risk gives a bigger payoff.

      --
      FATMOUSE + YOU = FATMOUSE
    5. Re:Dual Use Tech by jfengel · · Score: 2, Informative

      Some electric burners come with dials, rather than buttons, and they have perfectly fine heat control. In fact, I find that they do better at the low end: I can lower the burner so low that I can practically put my hand on it. It's much easier to keep things simmering without becoming a rolling boil, and I can melt chocolate without a double boiler. And I don't have to invest in copper-sandwiched $300 pots to distribute the heat evenly or risk a burned ring in the center of my pot.

      Where electric really sucks is its inability to change temperatures quickly. If you turn one on full it takes perhaps a minute to hit full heat, where a gas stove achieves full heat instantly.

      Professional chefs use gas for a different reason: a professional stove can put out far more heat than an electric one can. However, that only applies to the big commercial gas lines that can deliver 15,000 BTU; the ordinary home stove often tops out at 9,000 BTU. In many cases an electric stove can boil a large quantity of water faster than a gas stove. (But gas is faster for a small quantity, since it starts up faster.)

      I don't know the full pattern, but I suspect that they go electric-only in inexpensively-built houses (like suburban developments) because it saves them the trouble of running gas lines. I've grown up around electrics so I can compensate for their failures (preheating burners before I use them, setting things aside rather than just turning the burner off).

    6. Re:Dual Use Tech by PAjamian · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I think safety issues are the prime concern, these days. Cooking on an open flame just seems risky. An electric heating element can turn black very quickly after you turn it off but is still hot enough to burn. I would rather be able to see when the element is on than risk my 2yo son burning his hand on one that looks like it's cool but isn't.
      --
      Windows is a bonfire, Linux is the sun. Linux only looks smaller if you lack perspective.
    7. Re:Dual Use Tech by Carnildo · · Score: 2, Informative
      Some? I didn't know there was such a thing as an electric stove without dials. That sounds idiotic.


      Trust me, they exist. They're also idiotic. It's even worse when the labeling is inconsistent (HI-2-3-LO-WM-OFF) and the buttons are placed over the rear burners.
      --
      "They redundantly repeated themselves over and over again incessantly without end ad infinitum" -- ibid.
    8. Re:Dual Use Tech by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Who says no one is? That "heat" is just the entropic byproduct of the physical processes at sub/atomic scales. The Earth is just a vast computer built for pan-dimensional shades of the color blue which look like "mice" in our plane, to compute the question to the answer "42".

      Turns out that Life, the Universe and Everything still means something mysterious, but it doubtless means a lot of laundry.

      --

      --
      make install -not war

    9. Re:Dual Use Tech by Ucklak · · Score: 4, Informative

      Actually it was probably that and the fact that where I lived, the gas companies were de-regulated and that was a clusterF*K of mess right there.

      You had to pay for the use of gas which was cheaper wholesale (which benefited business that pushed for deregulation) but marked up well over the original prices for residential customers and you had to pay for the billing of gas from the gas marketer which was a new charge.
      The deregulation was sold as cheaper gas for all but it ended up costing way more than they imagined, Natural gas prices rose insanely on top of that, and people that couldn't pay for the increase of both had to freeze in the winter.

      http://www.psc.state.ga.us/consumer_corner/cc_gas/ gasderegfaq.asp

      --
      if you steal from one source, that is plagiarism, if you steal from many, well, that's just research.
    10. Re:Dual Use Tech by Maxo-Texas · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I'd really doubt you can drive an electric stove from alternative energy that well.

      You'd be much better off to have one of those solar cookers most of the year- they can hit over 300 degrees in sub-optimal light.

      Maybe when solar drops by an order of magnitude in price.

      --
      She was like chocolate when she drank... semi-sweet at first and then increasingly bitter.
    11. Re:Dual Use Tech by leenks · · Score: 3, Informative

      He was talking about an induction hob - ie there is no element to stay hot. Your gas stove, however, will heat up all the ironwork around the burner that holds your pans in place, so there is still a risk of burning.

    12. Re:Dual Use Tech by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 2, Insightful

      You just described one of the many permutations of Enron's business model. All of which hinged on "deregulation", but retained regulations protecting Enron from investigation of their market abuses. Just ask Grandma Millie.

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      make install -not war

    13. Re:Dual Use Tech by Shakrai · · Score: 2, Informative

      Not saying it's a realistic reason, but seriously, a lot of people are just afraid of gas.

      It's not realistic at all. Ever light the pilot light on a furnace or hot water heater? Notice how the switch has three modes: off/on/light (or pilot, pilot-light). In the 'on' mode a thermocouple is enabled. This thermocouple generates a tiny current using the heat of the pilot light and uses that current to hold the gas valve open with an electromagnet. If you blow out the pilot light then the thermocouple stops generating that current and the gas valve closes automatically.

      Only in the 'pilot' mode does it bypass the thermocouple and open the gas valve directly. So, yes, if you set it to pilot, lit the flame and forgot to turn it to 'on' your house might blow up. But not in normal operation.

      Add to that the fact that a lot of modern gas appliances (stoves and furnaces) are using electronic ignition these days. Why? Because the pilot light is a huge waste of gas. The pilot light on my old furnace alone uses about 6-8/therms a month of gas! That's more then half of what my hot water heater uses (10-12/therms) and it's actually doing something!

      --
      I want peace on earth and goodwill toward man.
      We are the United States Government! We don't do that sort of thing.
    14. Re:Dual Use Tech by AlHunt · · Score: 2, Insightful

      >I've always been curious why more people don't use gas.

      Came home 11pm, family asleep, house full of gas.

      Emptied house, shut off gas, cleared the air and sent everyone back to bed.

      7AM the next day - threw out the gas stove, removed gas cylinder and had an electric installed by noon.

      That was 1980. I've used gas in commercial settings seince then, but never again in my own home.

      --
      1 in 4 Maine children in struggle with hunger.
    15. Re:Dual Use Tech by Shakrai · · Score: 2, Informative

      Gas was much more expensive than electric.

      Unless your electric is insanely cheap or your gas furnace is insanely inefficient then gas should always be cheaper then electric. Do the numbers: 1 therm = 100,000 btus = 29.307107 kWh. At $0.08/kWh that therm costs $2.34 with electric. The highest I've ever seen gas prices around here was about $1.20/therm.

      Now that calculation doesn't take into consideration how efficient your gas furnace is. New model gas furnaces can achieve >95% efficiency. They suck so much heat out of the combusted gas that the water vapor condenses and has to be drained away. Older model furnaces can really ruin your day though. The one in my apartment seems to manage

      Electric heat is always 100% efficient (from the end users prospective) so this might explain why it seems to be cheaper to use electric. I'd consider buying a new gas furnace though. Unless the insanely cheap electric applies to you.... My electric runs about $0.045/kWh (hydro) and gas would still be cheaper if my landlord would get me a new furnance.

      --
      I want peace on earth and goodwill toward man.
      We are the United States Government! We don't do that sort of thing.
    16. Re:Dual Use Tech by Shakrai · · Score: 3, Interesting

      -1, FUD. Ever heard of a Thermocouple? Any modern gas appliance with a pilot light has one. And saying that old appliances can be dangerous is hardly unique to gas.

      --
      I want peace on earth and goodwill toward man.
      We are the United States Government! We don't do that sort of thing.
    17. Re:Dual Use Tech by raddan · · Score: 3, Interesting

      I think safety issues are the prime concern, these days. Cooking on an open flame just seems risky.

      Safety is definitely the concern with natural gas. My brother is both an EMS first responder and part-time firefighter. He has pictures of what can happen when your house fills with gas. There was an elderly couple who were killed recently (unfortunately they died after much suffering from the burns, weeks later) when their house filled with natural gas-- the old man happened to be working on his dryer at the time. He finished, plugged it in, and BANG. They found their front door about 50 yards from the building, and all of the condo units in the building ended up being condemned-- the explosion actually cracked the foundation of the building. The fire was so intense that the firefighters spent most of their time putting out the blaze on the building next door which was caused from the heat of the original building. It was a real tragedy.

    18. Re:Dual Use Tech by cayenne8 · · Score: 2, Informative
      "It isn't really that likely, but if you ever needed to go off grid in an emergency, your gas stove, dryer, furnace, etc will be useless if upstream gas production stops, and you can only store so much of the stuff for emergencies."

      Actually, quite the opposite. Power was out a couple days after a tropical storm. I could still cook quite easily...the electric gas stove starters didn't work, but, matches did just fine.

      "Oh, and I call BS on the "can't really cook on an electric stove" thing. You do have heat control, and if you don't, you got a POS stovetop. They may not have the instant feedback of dialing down the gas, but just *plan* a little bit and adjust for the slight cool-down and warm-up times."

      Well, not really....not if you are into some serious cooking...if you look into a pro kitchen, commercial setting, you'll never see an electric stove...ovens may indeed be electric (like the convection ones), but, for sauteeing, or for that matter, stir frying...you don't get near the results on an electric element.

      I had my own restaurant for awhile...ran my own kitchen...I do know a little of what I speak of here.

      My waistline is my resume...as they say, "Never trust a skinny chef".

      :-)

      --
      Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
    19. Re:Dual Use Tech by Blkdeath · · Score: 2, Insightful
      An electric heating element can turn black very quickly after you turn it off but is still hot enough to burn. I would rather be able to see when the element is on than risk my 2yo son burning his hand on one that looks like it's cool but isn't.

      Man, whatever happened to letting kids get hurt every now and again? Guaranteed he'll never touch a burner with his bare hand again.

      --
      BD Phone Home!

      Shameless plug. Like you weren't expecting it.

    20. Re:Dual Use Tech by lucifuge31337 · · Score: 5, Informative

      Safety is definitely the concern with natural gas. My brother is both an EMS first responder and part-time firefighter.

      Blah blah blah. I'm the Fire Marshal of a small town in PA. Most fires (not just in my town) are caused by cooking, and have nothing to do with the fuel used. It has little to do with the exact method of heating, its just that its hot. It's normally because of carelessness (especially including lack of maintenence). This includes crappy old gas stoves with no thermocoulpes that aren't properly mainteined. It includes overloaded elctgrical circuits. It includes filty ranges that have dirt and buildup catch fire during normal usage. It includes imporperly installed applicnces that don't vent correctly. It includes decrepit electrical wiring in the wall supplying a 30 amp 240v circuit.

      Don't kid yourself that gas is a higher risk. Improperly installed, improperly mainteained, and imporperly used are the real risks.

      --
      Do not fold, spindle or mutilate.
    21. Re:Dual Use Tech by Aczlan · · Score: 2, Informative

      if it is that old it is probably passing carbon monoxide into the air, if I were yuo I would have it checked and if your furnace is putting too much carbon monoxide into the air your landlord is (often) REQUIRED to fix it, not sure where you live but here is want they have to say in VT: http://healthvermont.gov/enviro/indoor_air/co.aspx #six

      Aaron Z

      --
      "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote
    22. Re:Dual Use Tech by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      Lived there. I think you misread his critique. The "cylinder" style cooking is just as he said, a camp stove or such. When the gas is empty, you unhook it and screw the regulator on another. No surprise there was a leak. The copper tubing probably was being bent repeatedly.

      Out in the country, we had the large propane tank in the yard. The gas tubing inside the house was never touched in all the years I lived there. No leaks could develop. The only "gas leak" was when the pilot lights on the stove went out, but they had such a small gas feed to them they would never fill the house. This happened maybe once or twice a year. So I can say from experience a gas leak is not common in a properly installed home environment.

    23. Re:Dual Use Tech by ameline · · Score: 2, Insightful

      My gas stove is 15,000 btu per burner -- that's 60,000 for the top plus another 30,000 for the oven. (Needed a new gas meter when it was installed :-) It's just a small (30") Viking.

      If you work out how many amps of current at 240V that would be, it will surprise you -- You'd need to run awg 3 or 4 wire to your stove to get that kind of heat from electricity (without heating up the wires to the point of setting your house on fire).

      For those interested in the numbers, it's 109.875 amps at 240V to get you to 26,370 watts == 90,000 BTU/hr. To compare, a typical electric stove of the same size will not draw over 40A at 240V.

      --
      Ian Ameline
    24. Re:Dual Use Tech by afidel · · Score: 2, Informative

      If the pilot light is out then the thermocouple should have cut off the gas supply! If you were getting gas leaking because the pilot went out something was SERIOUSLY wrong and the unit should have been replaced. Every gas appliance since forever has required the gas be manually opened in order to relight the pilot.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
  2. Wow by kjart · · Score: 4, Funny

    He owns a PC and a hard drive. The Wall Street Journal must be paying rather well, nowadays.

  3. Lights? by Quila · · Score: 4, Informative

    Time to get those compact fluorescents. I have them in all but a few of the sockets in my house, and I estimate they save me big $$ given how much we have the lights on (there's almost always someone home, and I'm a night owl).

    1. Re:Lights? by LWATCDR · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Yep old style lights are a huge waste. Not only that but the compact fluorescent seem to last much longer.

      --
      See my blog http://ilovecookes.blogspot.com/ for light hearted technical information.
    2. Re:Lights? by oni · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I've converted most of my house - but I keep wondering what's going to happen to all that mercury once they do eventually wear out. I'm not aware of any place in my town that will recycle them.

    3. Re:Lights? by soft_guy · · Score: 2, Informative

      I've converted most of my house - but I keep wondering what's going to happen to all that mercury once they do eventually wear out. I'm not aware of any place in my town that will recycle them. Depends on where you live, but usually you want to call the people that run your local dump. They will be able to tell you the correct way to dispose of hazardous waste in your area.

      My wife switched us completely to compact flourescents a few years ago. It has saved a bunch of money.
      --
      Avoid Missing Ball for High Score
    4. Re:Lights? by Line_Fault · · Score: 3, Interesting

      I put compact fluorescents in every light possible in my place after our renovation. The only other lights are the halogens in the kitchen. They are new 15w ultra compacts which emulate a 75w bulb, I thought this was better than the 13w -> 60w, a lot brighter for 2 watts!

      It was around $20CDN for 8 of them.

      They also produce a nice white light, not yellow!

      But, now that I'm not producing incredible amounts of heat from light bulbs, how much more does it cost in natural gas to heat my house?

    5. Re:Lights? by polar+red · · Score: 4, Informative

      fluorescent are being caught up by LED's now.

      --
      Yes, I'm left. You have a problem with that?
    6. Re:Lights? by dfn_deux · · Score: 2, Informative
      Not sure where you are located.... But, for most of us Americans and Europeans you can bring your burnt CFLs (used up alkaline batteries too for that matter) to your local Ikea store where they will accept the waste for proper disposal free of charge.

      I don't work for Ikea, I just like referring others to free resources that help people be more responsible in their consumption behaviors.

      --
      -*The above statement is printed entirely on recycled electrons*-
    7. Re:Lights? by Maltheus · · Score: 2

      Yeah, but you can't dim compact fluorescent and they look awful. I'd guess that dimmed incandescents use about the same energy as full powered fluorescents. Unless you're reading, you shouldn't need that much light at night anyway. And given that this is Slashdot, all your reading material is likely self-illuminating.

    8. Re:Lights? by zxnos · · Score: 4, Informative
      cant do what now?

      also, someone up above made a comment about LED lights and got moderated troll. he is correct, LEDs are the next thing in lighting, as soon as the cost comes down. considerably more efficient than CFs.

      last note. i put CFs in my current house when i moved in 4 years ago. i havent had to replace a single one yet. and i too am a night owl.

      --
      always mosh clockwise
    9. Re:Lights? by GoRK · · Score: 4, Informative

      He was probably modded a troll because he was trolling.

      It is a misconception that LED fixtures are more power efficient than CF or other traditional "hot wire" light sources. Compared to your typical compact fluorescent bulb at the magical "100 watt incandescent" equivalent light output, they are in fact about the same. Fluorescent tubes are quite a bit better.

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy

      There are however some new high-flux LED's in development that are cracking the previous 100 lumen/watt ceiling, but they still have a *long* way to go until they are cost competitive with any other light source.

    10. Re:Lights? by 644bd346996 · · Score: 2, Informative

      Mercury vapor is harmful. Do not attempt to extract the mercury from a fluorescent bulb. Recently, there have been cases where whole schools have been evacuated because of a broken mercury thermometer. While that is overreacting, keeping a jar of mercury in the closet is very stupid.

    11. Re:Lights? by DragonWriter · · Score: 2, Informative
      Yeah, but you can't dim compact fluorescent and they look awful.


      The best looking light (in terms of the light it puts out) I've ever owned is a full-spectrum flourescent desk lamp I bought at a craft store, that has all the usual benefits (in terms of low power consumption : output, long tube life) of flourescent bulbs over incadescent bulbs. It was expensive, which is why most CFLs aren't the same, but IMO most CFLs are about as good as avage incadescents (halogens last longer and look better than normal incadescents without saving energy, and nice-looking incadescents are available at premium prices, but still are short-lived.)

      I'd guess that dimmed incandescents use about the same energy as full powered fluorescents.


      If you want dim lighting you can just use lower-output or fewer flourescents; whatever illumination level you want, flourescents will provide at lower power use than incadescents, and last longer doing it.
    12. Re:Lights? by Maxo-Texas · · Score: 2, Informative

      They sell warm and cool CFL's.

      It makes a dramatic difference to how painted walls look.

      Green under "warm" vs "Mint green" under "blue".

      I have a wide variety of CFL's in my house and have at least 4 different shades from a very reddish light to a very blue/white light (like a reveal bulb).

      --
      She was like chocolate when she drank... semi-sweet at first and then increasingly bitter.
    13. Re:Lights? by Maxo-Texas · · Score: 2, Informative

      They now make CF's that fit. Check at lowes or home depot.

      There are a wide variety of form factors available these days.

      They make teeny ones that fit in cieling fan and candle type settings, bulb size ones, they make cold white, cool white, warm, and very warm lights. etc.

      --
      She was like chocolate when she drank... semi-sweet at first and then increasingly bitter.
    14. Re:Lights? by hankwang · · Score: 2, Insightful
      60-120kHz. The flicker should not be noticeable by people. However, some people still claim to sense the flicker.

      It is theoretically possible that electronic ballasts generate flicker. After all, the AC line voltage is rectified and smoothed with a capacitor before going through a circuit that rapidly switches on and off the current through the tube. Without smoothing, the voltage would vary between 0 and 230*sqrt(2)=325 V (for 230 VAC); with the smoothing capacitor, it would be vary between something like 230 and 325 V. It is well possible that this variation shows up as 100 (120) Hz in the light intensity, although the amplitude of the flicker should be much lower than with a magnetic ballast.

    15. Re:Lights? by Chris+Pimlott · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Sadly it is a very common misconception that you can't get dimmable compact fluorescent bulbs. It is true that they are next to impossible to find, however; none of the big-box retailers in my area had any, aside from a few large bulbs clearly meant for spotlight/outdoor use. Every employee I asked was surprised to find out that they actually exist; I even went to a few specialty lighting stores and was told flat out that it couldn't be done, that it would require special circuitry.

      Ultimately, I gave up, since I am planning to move soon anyway. I will certainly be careful to check what type of lights are used in the next place I live, though; every single overhead light in my current apartment is on a dimmer. Bleh.

  4. EIA Residential Energy Statistics are free to all by radl33t · · Score: 5, Informative

    This isn't a suprise at all. Residential energy use is well documented in the EIA's Residential Energy Consumption Survey. The DOE runs these once every 4 or 5 years. Heating > A/C > Lights/Fridge/Cook/Clothes > gadgets.

    Things might change as people consume their 8h/day TV on 60" plasma space heaters.

  5. Re:If only... by __aaclcg7560 · · Score: 4, Funny

    You need a wife. As my Daddy used to say, "A wife is an appliance you screw on the bed to get the housework done."

  6. Use a dimmer by lpangelrob · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I'm about done with replacing the light bulbs (that I can) from incandescent to fluorescent, but we have a smaller chandelier that's hooked up to a dimmer. I generally keep it at 75% of full power. The light bulbs also last longer because (hearsay warning!) apparently, the fact that the lights don't flip on/off immediately helps the bulbs not burn out as quickly.

    Anyways, somewhat on topic, I hear that in California all new development and remodeling requires fluorescent lighting. Is that true?

    1. Re:Use a dimmer by Waffle+Iron · · Score: 2, Informative
      By all means someone should correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe a dimmer doesn't actually save on power use, because the "dimming" mechanism is merely a (forgive the lack of electronics terms) a device that increases resistance.

      Most light dimmers actually use a transistor that chops off parts of the AC waveform. Since the transistor is always full-on or full-off, no significant power is lost in the dimmer switch (which would get very hot otherwise). The chopped-up waveform is also the reason you're not supposed to hook fluorescent lights, motors, etc. to light dimmers.

      However, dimmed incandescent lights are even more dismally inefficient than normally running incandescent lights, so a dimmer is really more for setting a mood than saving power.

    2. Re:Use a dimmer by HuskyDog · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Many of the other replies to this post are at best mis-informed. So, here are the facts.

      1) Reducing the power to incandescent bulbs via a dimmer does not save money. It is true that you use less power, but as you reduce the voltage the efficiency of the bulb goes down. Wikipedia has an article on this with some handy power laws. If we apply these to the example case (75% of the voltage, assume 100W bulb) we get only 38% of the light (i.e. about what we would get from a 40W bulb), but we consume 63W of electricity. Of course, the bulb will now last for about 100 times as long. Perhaps the original post didn't mean 75% of the voltage, but instead 75% of the light. Doing the maths for this case we get: 88W and 3.8 times lifetime.

      Note that the above lifetime extensions are purely a result of the lower voltage and nothing to do with flipping on and off. You will get the advantage even if you leave the bulb on all the time. But, since bulbs cost more to run than they do to buy and replace (except in special cases such as traffic lights) then reducing the voltage is a false economy. You would be better off simply buying some lower wattage bulbs or better still getting some compact flourescent lamps instead.

      When I first knew my wife she lived in Estonia and her bedroom was fitted with a very clever scheme for dimming the lights (something which I often wanted to do!). Her light fitting had three bulbs connected to a double wall switch. One switch operated a single bulb and the other controlled the other two. One could therefore have 1, 2 or 3 bulbs and they would always be running at optimum efficiency. I suspect that limited Soviet domestic technology was the motivation behind this scheme rather than power efficiency, but it worked very well. Sadly, although several of the rooms in the flat are still wired for this scheme, you can no longer buy the special multi-wired fittings. I have offered to modify my mother-in-laws new lights, but she is reluctant.

      Finally, can I point out that dimmer switches do not rely on resistance. If they did then they would get very hot! Most use electronic components called triacs, which are essentialy switches which can be controlled in such a way as to permit current to flow for only part of each half cycle of the AC voltage. This reduces the average voltage and for incandescent bulbs this is what matters.

  7. Irrelevance by silentounce · · Score: 5, Funny

    I fail to see this article's relevance to the Slashdot userbase. Being nocturnal, underground dwellers we have no need of light other than the soft glow of our displays and diagnostics. As for the rest of our energy needs, we tap into the power grid of the mysterious beings that dwell above us. They provide us with nourishment and also manage the laundry.

    --
    There are many tongues to talk, and but few heads to think. -Victor Hugo
  8. Dryer by frostyboy · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Well, that $25/month that you pay to run your dryer (even less if you spend a little more upfront and get a gas model) is just about a wash in the long run as compared to the $1.50/load that it would cost at a laundromat. We used to spend $40/month on quarters for laundry. About two-thirds of that was for drying and the rest for washing.

    But yeah, those multi-bulb units will really kill you. Once you realize how much it costs per month to operate a 100 watt incandescent light bulb, that's the real incentive for switching to compact fluorescent wherever you can (slow startup-time and all).

    --
    Who is General Failure? And why is he reading my disk????
  9. Re:This was actually printed in the WSJ? by ergo98 · · Score: 2, Insightful
    Natural gas or oil heating costs a lot less than electric heating though.

    True enough, though they've gotten a lot closer.

    Nonetheless, I remember having a computer room full of always-on PCs, a giant tube television, a huge power sucking amp, and so on -- my furnace never came on. Since switching to a lot of power efficient gear, a low power LCD screen, CF lighting throughout, and so on, suddenly the furnace seems to always be one, so my conservation has been offset to a degree in the winter.
  10. The bottom line by rrohbeck · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Wasn't there an attempt to force a label on every appliance saying "this device will cost you $x.xx per month if it's kept running" or some such? Can't remember. That would definitely make a lot of sense.

    On the other hand, as long as everybody I know never turns off the light in their office I don't expect them to do that at home either. That tells me that energy is still far too cheap.

    1. Re:The bottom line by ergo98 · · Score: 5, Interesting
      Wasn't there an attempt to force a label on every appliance saying "this device will cost you $x.xx per month if it's kept running" or some such? Can't remember. That would definitely make a lot of sense.

      Yes, but they're still working out kinks with the measurements. For instance I bought a dishwasher that was world's better than the competitors on the energuide/energy star scale. Turns out that my dishwasher has a sensor that measures how dirty the water is, automatically (and significantly) shortening the cycle for small/null loads. Turned out that the energy test the government ran did a cycle with nothing in it at all, making a best case.

      While the sensor will definitely help, it certainly won't to the degree demonstrated in the artificial benchmark.
    2. Re:The bottom line by rk · · Score: 2, Funny

      So, if I hand wash the dishes first, I'll save a ton on electricity!

  11. Felt the article was lacking. by gurps_npc · · Score: 3, Insightful
    It did not discuss the "remote on" issue at all. (When your TV, Stereo, etc. has a remote control that lets it turn on, that means it is really ALWAYS on, just in a kind of 'sleep' mode, draining some power, costing your money)

    He also failed to give real numbers and total things up. Sure, maybe the electric clothes dryer is an energy hog as compared to say the a computer. But it does not let us know if the dryer is twice as bad as a computer, 10x, or 100x. If you have say 3 computers up and running constantly, then it still makes sense to unplug them instead of 'the energy hog' dryer, if the dryer only uses up twice the power of a single computer. I would have loved to know relative strengths, such as 1 electric stove = 7 laptops.

    --
    excitingthingstodo.blogspot.com
    1. Re:Felt the article was lacking. by schwaang · · Score: 3, Interesting

      When I measured power usage around my house not long ago, most remote-on devices used 1W each in standby. But there were some exceptions:

      A cable co.-supplied DVR uses 52-53W ON, and 50W when "OFF". (I put a lamp timer on that thing, since I don't record overnight anyway.)

      A regular (non-DVR) cable box uses 15-16W ON, and 15W OFF.

      An HP4110 fax/scan/printer uses 10-11W ON(idle), and 10-11W OFF. (Ok, not a remote-on device. WTF?)

      Stereo, LCD monitors, and CRT TV each uses =1W in standby.

    2. Re:Felt the article was lacking. by imsabbel · · Score: 2, Informative

      your experience with the real world is SERIOSULY lacking.

      I personally witnessed small compact hifi systems drawing 30W while "off" compared to 35W while on without any load.

      --
      HI O WISE PRINCE. WHT TOOK U SO DAM LONG?
    3. Re:Felt the article was lacking. by raxx7 · · Score: 2, Informative

      I'm afraid that the status quo in consumer electronics is much worse than that.
      Many, problably most, devices consume a few watts to a few tens of watts in standby mode.

      1 watt or less in standby for most devices is what the International Energy Agency is pushing for in 2010.

  12. His guess about the dryer is spot-on by raddan · · Score: 3, Informative

    Our dryer died one day, and since it did not belong to us (it belonged to the landlord; he did not want to fix it; long story), we just left it there and started hanging our clothes instead. We were a little irritated by the inconvenice at first, but after that first electric bill we were sold. $25/mo less per month. I made sure to compare all the transmission/generation charges just to be sure it was all from the dryer.

    Now this was in 2003. We've noticed that the generation charge has been going up, so that, compared to 2003, we are paying roughly $10 more a month for the same number of kWh (roughly 180 kWh/mo). So you'll even save a bit more now.

    Anyhow, that prompted us to walk around and replace all of our lightbulbs with compact fluorescents, and so on (saving us another $10/mo). Considering that none of these bulb have died (save the one that our landlord dropped), I think the $40 or so we put into bulbs has paid us back quite a bit.

    I did the same experiment with the power meter. I was quite surprised to discover that under normal load, my Soekris router consumed less than 1W. Very cool. The same can't be said about the laser printer (LaserJet 4M Plus), though. 700W peak, ~30W at idle. We leave that one off most of the time.

  13. I've got this guy beat, big time. by glomph · · Score: 5, Funny

    I live in Bellevue, Washington, a large suburb between Seattle & Redmond (the land of Evil).

    Almost the entire city, plus the environs, has been without power for the past 4
    days.

    Ref:
    http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/20 03482933_stormmainbar18m.html

    Thus we are major leaders in energy savings!

  14. Re:Duh? by $RANDOMLUSER · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Erm, no. The sticker on your power supply shows the PEAK wattage available, not the actual current draw, which is undoubtedly much less.

    --
    No folly is more costly than the folly of intolerant idealism. - Winston Churchill
  15. Estimate 18 Month Payback for CF Bulbs by Doug+Dante · · Score: 5, Interesting
    I estimate rather conservatively that my compact florescent (CF) bulbs will pay for themselves in less than 18 months, and double their investment in less than 36 months.

    That's better than a 26% per year ROI. The 100 Watt equivalents are about than $2.70 each when purchased in 3 packs at Walmart. I replaced every bulb that didn't have an occlusion due to a light fixture (about 30) in my home for around $80.

    It's a better investment than the stock market any day.

    --
    The world will not get better through technology. We must seek to be better people.
    1. Re:Estimate 18 Month Payback for CF Bulbs by RealGrouchy · · Score: 2, Interesting
      I estimate rather conservatively that my compact florescent (CF) bulbs will pay for themselves in less than 18 months

      Sorry to burst your bulb, but this is a really dangerous style of reasoning.

      For example, there are a lot of ads at the bus shelters here in Ottawa talking about how ethanol and biodiesel "reduces" greenhouse gases.

      I'm sorry, but when you burn any hydrocarbon there are more--not less--GHGs in the atmosphere as a result. Carpooling with one other person will reduce your emissions by 50%; teleworking or cycling one day per week will reduce by 20%.

      Similarly, CF bulbs (yes, I do use them) don't "pay for themselves": you don't get paid to use them, they only cost less, when compared to an older, less efficient technology. Do you still hear people talk about the money that they save from not having to pay for lamp oil by using incandescents?

      That's why I don't bother with those LED Christmas lights: sure they use less energy than the old kind, but I use no energy at all when I don't have any Christmas lights! (well, plus I have it in for Christmas; see username)

      The advantage of performing a task with less energy (or at less cost, or with fewer pollutants) often distracts people from asking themselves if that task needs to be done at all, or as much.

      - RG>
      --
      Hey pal, this isn't a pleasantforest, so don't waste my time with pleasantries!
  16. ok, perhaps not obvious by mrcdeckard · · Score: 2, Insightful


    but just a moment of reflection should tell you that yes, anything that generates heat is going to be a huge draw of power. one can directly express heat power in Watts; yes, the same watts used to express electrical power.

    electric heaters are usually 1500 watts. light bulbs from 60 to 100 watts. appliance motors in the home are around 1/4 to 1/2 horsepower (1 horsepower ~= 746 watts).

    let's keep this in terms of heat for a second. in case you're wondering what uses more power -- your hair dryer or wireless router, you can do this simple test. put your hand on the hair dryer -- in just a few seconds, it will burn. perhaps a 1st degree burn. now, put your hand on your wireless router. warm, but not burn. in fact, it might feel cozy depending on your clime. therefore, i give to you the severity of the burn is proportional to how much electricity a device is using.

    another indication is the size of the power cable something uses.

    i dunno. i thought every self-respecting nerd had a handle on basic home power and loading.

    mr c

    --
    "Physics is like sex. Sure, it may give some practical results, but that's not why we do it." - R. Feynman
    1. Re:ok, perhaps not obvious by Lithdren · · Score: 2, Funny

      let's keep this in terms of heat for a second. in case you're wondering what uses more power -- your hair dryer or wireless router, you can do this simple test. put your hand on the hair dryer -- in just a few seconds, it will burn. perhaps a 1st degree burn.

      For Your Information, it was a 2ed degree burn, you insensitive clod. Expect my doctor bill shortly.
  17. Wasting electricity in the winter impossible? by CaseyB · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I've spent time thinking about this recently.

    Assuming that you're spending money heating your house in the winter, isn't it effectively impossible to "waste" electricity? Any electricity you consume is going to end up as heat (minus an irrelevant amount as light and kinetic energy), which you want anyway.

    Of course, if your main heat source is not electricity (e.g. gas), electricity might be slightly more expensive. But I think the basic idea holds.

    1. Re:Wasting electricity in the winter impossible? by bcattwoo · · Score: 4, Insightful

      That does hold to some extent, but I think you are underestimating how much electric resistive heating can cost compared to other methods. I have a heat pump which will run with a coefficient of performance of around three for the usual winter weather around here, meaning it requires three times less electricity to run than straight resistive heating. Gas heating is still a bargain compared to electric in most places. Plus, don't forget that if one lives someplace where A/C is needed in the summer, the A/C will have to run even longer to get rid of that waste heat.

    2. Re:Wasting electricity in the winter impossible? by StarsAreAlsoFire · · Score: 2, Informative

      Sadly, few people have heat pumps.

      Ironically, many people have A/C.

      Where's the irony? An A/C unit is simply a heat pump facing the wrong direction.

      Anyway. Adding to your point: even electric heat is generally designed to deliver the heating effect to areas where it is most useful. As opposed to heating your ceiling.

      Even it everything broke even, CF bulbs are nearly cheap enough (if not ARE cheap enough) to offset the cost of replacing the 5 or six incandecent bulbs which would be required in the CF's place (in terms of lifespan). Not to mention saving the hassle of breaking out ladders for those of us with high ceilings.

  18. American style science by mnmn · · Score: 3, Insightful

    So you do not know how many watts your dryer is, yet take the liberty to 'estimate' the $25 figure.

    I would start with reading the wattage close to the handle.

    --
    "Give orange me give eat orange me eat orange give me eat orange give me you." -Nim Chimpsky
  19. Evidently by Cutting_Crew · · Score: 3, Funny

    he doesnt have a 30" Inch LCD screen as his computer monitor and a dual-core GeForce 7900 GTX with 512 MB RAM and a 7.1 Surround Sound System.

  20. Depending on where you live, this may not matter by viking80 · · Score: 2, Insightful

    All the electricity these gadgets consume is turned into heat, so in the cold season, they are completely free. Every watt they use results in one watt less used to heat the house.

    The same goes for lightbulbs and any other electric appliance except the ones that heat the outside (like the clothes drier)

    On the other hand, if you run the A/C for a long time in the summer, you pay twice for the electricity these gadgets use. First when the gadget turns it into heat, secondly when the A/C pumps the heat out of the house.

    --
    don't cut it off www.mgmbill.org
  21. I dunno by prelelat · · Score: 2, Insightful

    I wonder how long he estimated he left his lights on and how long they actually were on. On anouther note I would have thought that an always on device like the fridge would have ranked alot higher on the cost range. I mean I can go weeks without washing my cloths, my friends stay away but sometimes thats a plus. The fridge on the other hand is always plugged in and doing something even if its not cooling. I also wonder if he included the light in the fridge as part of his math for lighting. Lord knows that things always on...

  22. Re:If only... by cayenne8 · · Score: 3, Funny
    "You need a wife. As my Daddy used to say, "A wife is an appliance you screw on the bed to get the housework done.""

    Nah...in the long run, that will prove to be VASTLY more expensive, especially if you ever decide to upgrade to a newer model.

    That's why I just live with them....more like leasing with an option to buy.

    :-)

    --
    Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
  23. Don't confuse consumption with waste by Sir_Sri · · Score: 2, Insightful

    One shouldn't confuse consumption with waste, he's talking about total consumption here. A dryer running constantly with no clothes in it is wasted power. Yet no one sensible would do that.

    Most newer computers can ramp down power consumption when not in use, but they're still using some power. Lights left on when no one around is wasted energy (and bulbs), just as a computer running at full tilt with no one around is usually wasted. But if you're google using however many thousands of computers that they are running constantly isn't a waste.

    Wasted power are things you don't see any benefit from. Yes, I could air dry all my clothes, though I live in canada, so 6 (now thanks to global warming 4) months of the year I could air freeze my clothes. So a dryer is an inefficient use of power at least part of the year but it isn't wasted as such. Leaving the refrigerator open 24/7 is wasting power. Running the dryer 20 minutes longer to make sure your clothes are extra dry is wasting power. Leaving a computer running full bore when no one is using it is wasting power. Inefficient power use is when you don't insulate your house (or open air it depending on your climate and house) but they obviously don't work for everyone. Incandescent bulbs are inefficient in terms of power, but total cost of ownership is harder to quantify. I find fluorescents burn out as fast or faster than regular ones, and the fluorescents cost more, that may be a matter of tolerance to humidity, electrical fluctuations and air temperature but I don't know. It would be nice to reduce power consumption but not if it costs me 30 or 40 bucks a month in replacement bulbs to save 10 bucks on my power bill.

  24. Hierarchy is: by Ungrounded+Lightning · · Score: 3, Informative

    The hierarchy of power consumption is:
      - Electric heating (resistive heating: Driers, room heaters, heating appliances.)
      - Motors
      - Lighting
      - Consumer electronics.

    Electric heating (by resisitance heaters) consumes an ENORMOUS amount of power.

    Switching from electric to gas drying (so the electric load is just the motor) will cause a big savings in the electric bill, while the gas bill won't go up anywhere neer enough to compensate. Ditto (even more so) if the house has electric heat.

    Same is true of the other heating appliances (hair driers, toasters, stoves and ovens, etc.) But (except for ovens if you do a LOT of baking) they tend to only run a short time so it doesn't make all THAT much difference on your bill.

    Motors are the next big load. Air conditioners are the worst, due to the heat pump. But moving anything around (even air) is costly. One horsepower is almost exactly 3/4 KW (and motors can be very efficient - 80s to 90s percent - but they're still not lossless). (Nevertheless, using a heat-pump for HEATING - especially if the weather outside is above freezing or so - uses a lot less power than resistive heating. But except for merely cool days it's still more expensive than gas.)

    Lighting is next. Incandescents are especially hot heaters, and the light is the visible part of the hot-wire glow. Much more is heat. Switch to fluorescents (compact or otherwise) and you get about four times as much light per watt. (LEDs may beat that in a few years but right now they're trailing fluorescents.)

    Consumer electronics is 'way down there - because it's improved a lot and because there has been serious effort to increase its efficiency and reduce its losses - as well as to reduce localized heating of the components. (When I got my first linux box it was a good space heater - and most of that was the disk drive. Nowdays things take a LOT less power.) With cheap semiconductors modern power supplies are now highly-efficient switching-mode devices, which also helps a lot.

    (Other appliances have also been re-engineered for efficiency, so switching to a modern large appliance may save you significant power and/or fuel. But electronics has had a much bigger improvement.)

    --
    Bantam Dominique roosters crow a four-note song. Once you've heard it as "Happy BIRTHday" you can't NOT hear it that way
  25. Re:60W bulbs? by Gilmoure · · Score: 2, Informative

    You can get LED christmas lights now, for around $7.00 a string of 35. They're pretty bright.

    --
    I drank what? -- Socrates
  26. Re:Quality? by Detritus · · Score: 2, Interesting

    If you look at a spectrogram of the light output of an incandescent bulb and a fluorescent bulb, you will see one of the major problems with fluorescent lighting. The incandescent bulb produces uniform energy over a wide range of frequencies, while the fluorescent bulb produces a very spikey output, most of its energy is emitted in a very narrow range of frequencies. See here for some examples.

    --
    Mea navis aericumbens anguillis abundat
  27. Was it really your dryer or was it your washer? by ProppaT · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Recently I bought a Fisher and Paykel washing machine from an appliance outlet store. It's quite the unique little washing machine. Instead of having a clutch and transmission, it runs off of a brushless electric motor. This thing spins and spins fast! The ending cycle spins the clothing at 1000RPM to sling all the water and soap out of them. Since this purchase, my clothes take about 1/2 the time in the dryer that they used to. Instead of pulling out soaking wet clothes from the washer, my clothes are only a few steps from being dried. I have a dryer with a moisture sensor built in, so they spend no more time than they have to in the drying cycle. I actually prefer them to be slightly damp so that, when they fully dry, they will be wrinkle free. I seem to be saving an average of $10 a month on electricity, and my clothes have never been so soft and clean smelling....

    --
    Wise men say, "Forgiveness is divine, but never pay full price for late pizza."
  28. Re:PC Power supplies get larger by the year by Lord+Kano · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Slap a carbon tax on Microsoft, Intel, AMD and graphics card makers.

    In the end, it's you and I who would pay it. Such taxes serve only to depress the standard of living for regular people and give governments more money to waste on pointless bullshit like lobbying for additional taxes.

    LK

    --
    "Hi. This is my friend, Jack Shit, and you don't know him." - Lord Kano
  29. Re:Clotheslines are not allowed by Eunuchswear · · Score: 4, Insightful

    And Americans fondly imagine they live in a free country.

    --
    Watch this Heartland Institute video
  30. Have showers with your clothes on!!! by cheekyboy · · Score: 2, Funny

    Dude, just have a shower with your cloths on, get 100% wet, take them off, and hand wrince them dry.

    Place them on a clothes rack and they will dry indoors in hours.

    1) no washer needed, just uses soap from shower
    2) no dryer needed, all natural
    3) you wash in FIFO order, not 5 days worth at a time.
    4) you save water
    5) its dry by the morning to wear again, so you only need 2 pairs of everything at most

    --
    Liberty freedom are no1, not dicks in suits.
  31. Re:Induction hobs by geert · · Score: 2, Informative

    Yes, it still gets a bit hot. But you can easily touch it (for less than a second). The people who give demos actually put their hands on it for longer times, but they're used to it.

    Imagine putting your hand on a halogen cooking device...

    So far I cooked on gas, plain electric, halogen, and finally induction. Induction cooking beats everything else!