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Entry-Level Astronomy?

brobak writes "I'm getting ready to move into a new home on a couple of acres of rural property a significant distance from any large source of light pollution. I've always been interested in astronomy in general, and I would like to put my dark skies to use by picking up decent telescope and learning a bit about the skies over my head. The overall budget for this project is going to be around $1,000. I am particularly interested in astrophotography, but I understand that that may carry me outside the scope of the initial budget. I've already signed up for my local astronomy club's next monthly meeting. I have been doing Web research, but I thought that the Slashdot community would be the perfect place to get opinions on entry-level equipment, websites, and books."

64 of 358 comments (clear)

  1. Astronomy software by jchillerup · · Score: 5, Informative

    The first thing I'd do would be to install Stellarium. That'd enable you to "tune in" on stars, even in cloudy weather.

    1. Re:Astronomy software by Mr2cents · · Score: 3, Informative

      While we're listing astronomy software: Kstars is great too.

      And if you want to use a (web)cam on your telescope, take a look at registax.

      --
      "It's too bad that stupidity isn't painful." - Anton LaVey
    2. Re:Astronomy software by screen404 · · Score: 5, Informative

      I have been doing backyard astronomy for a few years now.

      Hear is the list of groups and websites you want to visit or sign up:
      http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/DeepSkyImager/?yguid=222412370
      http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/ETXASTRO/?yguid=222412370
      http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/astroplanner/?yguid=222412370
      http://www.weasner.com/etx

      The software. One of the best softwares i have tried is Astroplanner http://www.ilangainc.com/astroplanner/
      It allows you to plan your observations or download plans of others.
      Will control your telescope and help align it correctly. runs both on Mac and PC.
      They guy is very good at support, and it is not very expensive.

      ps: I'm associated with Astroplanner but a very happy user.

    3. Re:Astronomy software by EBFoxbat · · Score: 3, Insightful

      You'll want the fastest (optically) scope you can afford. Don't be conc0erned with aperture. You'll appreciate the fast speed (low f/stop) when taking photos.

      Have realistic expectations: You'll NEVER take Hubble-like pictures and there are very few things (outside of our atmosphere) that you'll see any color from with your eye. Photography offers a better change to capture color.

      Learn about stacking multiple exposures: see Photoshop or applications like AStroStack

      Spend the extra money on a good tripod and mount as you'll really wish you did when you start shooting longer exposures (because stacking isn't cutting it and now you want to stack long-exposures)

      Don't waste your money on a red flash light. Red light is needed to help keep your eyes acclimated to the darkness. Red cellophane over a regular flashlight works. LEDs are the best as they have long battery life.

      Allow the telescope to adjust temperature for several hours.

      Know your equipment. This will some with time AND USE.

      Know this sky. This will come with time and use.

      Remember that you spent all that money to enjoy the wonders of the universe. Don't get pissed or let down.

      Good luck on keeping mosquitoes away.

    4. Re:Astronomy software by jdray · · Score: 2, Interesting

      You forgot, "Buy equipment that's not frustrating." A friend of mine has an entry-level 8" Dobsonian (?) telescope that he loaned me for a few months so I could try out astronomy. The focus mechanism on it was operated by unscrewing a thumbscrew that held the eyepiece in place, then sliding said eyepiece up and down in its socket to focus. The slightest bump to the main tube pushed the thing out of inclination angle, but (maddeningly), moving it on purpose was an effort (too much push, it went way too far, not enough push, it wouldn't move at all).

      In the end, I could find the moon just fine and get focused on it, but never anything else. He had plenty of experience, and once when I was over at his place (after returning the telescope), he lined it up on Jupiter and focused in for me. It was beautiful, and I could even make out a couple of the moons when I knew what I was looking for.

      With a motorized base and a dial-&-gear focus mechanism, I think I could really get into astronomy. Without those things, any scope I owned would sit and gather dust.

      --
      The Spoon
      Updated 6/28/2011
    5. Re:Astronomy software by Rei · · Score: 5, Informative

      The Weasner site would, of course, only be particularly useful if they're buying a Meade. As a Meade owner myself, however, it's wonderful ;)

      Anyways, to the poster: First off, let me recite the standard advice for getting a telescope:

      1) Don't buy from a "junk" brand (and there are a lot of them -- Bushnell, Tasco, Baytronix, etc). Get a name brand -- Meade, Celestron, Orion, etc.
      2) Get large aperture, but keep the telescope portable, or you'll never use it.
      3) Don't buy from Ebay.
      4) Don't even buy from a store like Walmart. Buy from a telescope dealer.
      5) Get quality optics like Televues and Naglers.
      6) Subscribe to astronomy magazines, join a local astronomy club, and on and on.
      7) If you can't afford everything above, just buy binocs.
      8) Don't do astrophotography; you'll just be disappointed.

      Let me tell you that most of that advice is bollocks.

      Follow #1 and, as money allows, #2. Completely ignore the Ebay advice. Ebay is *wonderful* for telescopes and accessories (of course, verify that they're actually cheaper there than elsewhere before you buy, but they usually are). I find that things get to you faster from Ebay, too, and they're almost never "backordered" like so many stores are. I bought my scope, four eyepieces, and a barlow from Ebay, and everything was exactly as described, shipped quickly. One caveat: With the scope itself, if it has a motorized mount or an autostar, make sure you have a warranty. This is very sensitive scientific equipment, so Murphy's Law applies. Also, never trust an airline with *any* part of your scope any further than you can throw them, no matter how well you pad it. Trust me on this one. I've had an equatorial mount sheared clean in half by them -- i.e., straight through a bolt with about half an inch of steel, sheared right off. I think they were having a monster truck rally on top of my luggage. If you're taking a scope on the plane, the whole thing must be carryon. Let me also take this change to plug Meade's customer service, which I've dealt with several times, and have been *very* pleased with.

      The "Televue and Nagler" advice is idiotic. People who advise that (and I've heard way too many) would have you spend your entire budget on two eyepieces. There are plenty of cheaper eyepieces that aren't too much lower quality than those top-of-the-line pieces. Antares eyepieces are good. I use Meade 4000 series, and have been very happy with them. On ebay, you'll only spend about $40 each for them.

      Your budget is bigger than mine was, so I wouldn't recommend my scope (a Meade DS 2130AT -- a 5" newtonian with a motorized equatorial mount and autostar -- $170, plus some money for eyepieces to replace the junk ones that it comes with). You can do better than 5" aperture. I wouldn't go with a newt at all; they'll get too heavy and bulky as they scale up, and the short tube newts aren't that good. I think you'd want one of the Cassegrain or Maksutov varieties so that it'd be more portable. Perhaps something in the Meade LX series.

      It doesn't hurt to join clubs or subscribe to magazines. On the other hand, you don't *have* to. There are plenty of astronomy forums online, and lots of articles.

      As for astrophotography, it's not a case of "don't do it", just "do it right and be patient". One thing not to do, IMHO, is afocal with your current camera. On sites that list afocal as a method, caveats with it often are not stressed enough. If you have a fast lens, the vignetting will be atrocious, often to the point of the pictures hardly being usable. Also, the higher the magnification you use, the worse the vignetting. You really need a camera that you can remove the lens on (eyepiece projection and prime focus astrophotography). Ignore the people who say to get an SLR (non-digital). If you want to use a regular camera, get a DSLR; modern astrophotography benefits hugely from digital postprocessing. However, any camera that might be even a little heavy should

      --
      By a scallop's forelocks!
  2. How dark is it? by jdigriz · · Score: 2, Insightful

    What's your Blortle number?

  3. Web site by tumutbound · · Score: 3, Informative

    Have a look at http://iceinspace.com.au/ while it's run out of Australia, there are members worldwide.
    'Where to start' is a common question there.

  4. Well there's always... by Artaxs · · Score: 4, Informative

    ... Google Sky.

    --
    Militant Agnostic: "I don't know, and damn it, neither do you!"
  5. A Great Camera? by SpottedKuh · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Now, I know that this probably won't be the kind of answer you're looking for, but here I go anyway...

    Personally, if I had the kind of space you had, with no light pollution, and if I had the budget you mentioned: I would buy a high quality digital SLR camera. Obviously, if you're looking to photograph things that you need a telescope to see, this wouldn't be a good use of money for you. But, if you're looking to take shots of constellations and the moon and such, then a high-quality digital SLR with a tripod will work beautifully.

    Plus, such a setup would allow you to take great photos of various weather phenomenon (e.g., thunderstorms). While it may not be the case for you, most of the people that I know that enjoy photographing the moon and the night sky also love photographing weather as well.

    And, obviously, you'd then have a great camera for travelling and such.

    1. Re:A Great Camera? by Registered+Coward+v2 · · Score: 4, Informative

      Personally, if I had the kind of space you had, with no light pollution, and if I had the budget you mentioned: I would buy a high quality digital SLR camera. Obviously, if you're looking to photograph things that you need a telescope to see, this wouldn't be a good use of money for you. But, if you're looking to take shots of constellations and the moon and such, then a high-quality digital SLR with a tripod will work beautifully.

      A good dSLR can be had for under $500 (Canon 350d/d40) new or even less used (KEH.com and fredmiranda.com (Buy & Sell forum) are good sources) and quality tripods start at $100.

      That leaves the choice of lens - whatever you buy if you decide to go the camera / tripod route invest in a really good lens - it's better to buy a $300 body and a $700 lens then vice versa since your glass has a greater impact on picture quality than MP's and you'll want fast glass (the ability to shot at faster shutter speeds in low light). Your investment will pay off over time since the lens will stay with you when you get a new body. Don't get all wrapped up in MP - anything 6mp or above is more than adequate for virtually any shoot. Don't worry about the endless Canon / Nikon fanboy debates - both are great systems so pick one that you like, meets your needs and fits your budget; realizing that you investment in lens will pretty much result in a lock to one manufacturer.

      I'd recommend holding of on a purchase until you attend a club meeting or too - you'll get advice there as well as a chance to talk about what you want to do and learn about other's rigs before you invest.

      --
      I'm a consultant - I convert gibberish into cash-flow.
    2. Re:A Great Camera? by falconwolf · · Score: 2, Informative

      Personally, if I had the kind of space you had, with no light pollution, and if I had the budget you mentioned: I would buy a high quality digital SLR camera. Obviously, if you're looking to photograph things that you need a telescope to see, this wouldn't be a good use of money for you. But, if you're looking to take shots of constellations and the moon and such, then a high-quality digital SLR with a tripod will work beautifully.

      To stay within budget and get good exposures of the night sky, stars and planets, it's better to get a 35 mm film camera. Then get a mount along with the telescope, using the mount the camera can be attached to the telescope. Someone at Astronomy.com asks for advise on getting a camera and mount for $500. Here's an adapter and mounts for different cameras for less than $100. If there is already a camera then several hundred dollars is available for the telescope. However if a camera is needed as well, one can be bought for $300 leaving $600 for the telescope. Oh, and a high quality dslr won't fit in that budget, for astrophotography and high quality a fullframe DSLR is where it's at. And the cheapest fullframe DSLR I know of is the Canon EOS 5D which retails for about $3000.

      Though I haven't spent much tyme researching it, I have done some because I'm interested in astrophotography myself. I've got the 35mm and have been looking at telescopes, unfortunately I live in a brightly lit city and know of no place where I can go to shoot the stars.

      Falcon
    3. Re:A Great Camera? by ookabooka · · Score: 2, Informative

      TouCam is dirt cheap and perfect for entry level astrophotography. Just google around, there's lots of literature on modifying/using the camera. I myself have taken some nice pictures of jupiter and moon(with filter) using a Toucam and 114mm maksutov-newtonian telescope. After you capture a video w/ the camera you can boot up registax to process it and make a compilation of multiple video frames for a nice still image. If you want to go for imaging deep objects like M31 or other galaxies, you will probably need to invest in a "real" astrophotography CCD.

      One of the many sites about the TouCam
      Registax

      --
      If you are about to mod me down, keep in mind that this post was most likely sarcastic.
    4. Re:A Great Camera? by De+Lemming · · Score: 2, Informative

      And if you want to go this far, here are some articles on modding your digital SLR for use in astronomy (noise reduction for longer exposure times by cooling the CMOS imaging chip, removal of the infrared filter,...). I've not done this myself, so YMMV.

      300D Peltier Modification
      Canon Digital Rebel 300D IR Filter Removal Modification and Peltier Cooling Plans -by Gary Honis

    5. Re:A Great Camera? by KarMann · · Score: 2, Informative

      ...the latest version of 'registax' - it's free (beer or speech - i can't remember)....

      As in beer, FYI.

      What the heck, here's the link, while I'm at it.

      --
      ProofReading Markup Language - and yes, I find typos.
    6. Re:A Great Camera? by Starwanderer · · Score: 2, Informative

      unfortunately I live in a brightly lit city and know of no place where I can go to shoot the stars
      Try http://www.darksky.org/darksky/. Click on Dark Sky Finder version 3 and input your coordinates. It will show you the dark sky sites closest to you.
    7. Re:A Great Camera? by rs79 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Just another datapoint for the "film is dead" theme...

      I'm just a hacker when it comes to photography. I have a newish Canon DSLR which I think is awesome. But i have friends with serious serious camera collections and portfoios.

      They're all disassembling their darkrooms and have gone completely digital. Film is dead there, they use Epson printers with the Ultra Chrome inks. While the ink isn't cheap it is better and more durable than current photographic methods.

      They use 'spensoive things like the R2200 and up. Thy were blowing out the R800 here for $99 (Canadian, but they take US cash ar par these days around here so I guess cad/usd is a moot point) which isn't bad considering it comes with full ink which is $160.

      I got one and am utterly blown away with the print quality even up at 8x10. I've never had prints this good from a lab or even a friends darkroom.

      While hp and canon make nice stuff too it seems to be the Epson that everybody I know has gone for.

      --
      Need Mercedes parts ?
    8. Re:A Great Camera? by frenetic_wimp · · Score: 2, Informative

      No point in buying a fullframe DSLR for astrophotography. Reduced frame gives you a blow-up factor, meaning you can get better shots with shorter lenses. Seriously, how often do you need ultra wide angle field of view when photographing the night sky? And how often do you wish you had a lens just _that_ bit longer? For the price of a 5D ($2,500) you can get a 40D _and_ a 400mm f/5.6 L lens. Throw in a 1.4x teleconverter and you have a ~900 mm equivalent camera system - nice for moon shots etc. For stars & such you should forget about conventional lenses and look at telescope mounting systems instead.

      --
      get a Free BSD!
    9. Re:A Great Camera? by emaname · · Score: 2, Informative

      Registered Coward's advice about attending a meeting or two is spot on. Actually, you should join the club and attend on a regular basis. This will give you a chance to see what other people are using and doing. This is really important. If you have the impression that you're going to set up a camera and start capturing a bunch of beautiful, full-color images of nebulae and globular clusters and galaxies, think again.

      For 30 years, I was a key-holding member of a group that has several scopes with an observatory on a parcel of land on a small hill in the country. The premier instrument is a 16-inch Cassegrain with some great optics in a really nice building with a dome. For several years, I ran the public viewing nights. The things that impressed people the most were the Moon, Jupiter, Saturn, Mars, and several open and globular clusters. Nebulae and galaxies all appear as very indistinct objects. The first time someone looks through a telescope at something like the Andromeda galaxy, they find it a bit disappointing. It's just a vague, hazy, blue blob.

      Doing photography requires an enormous amount of patience and excellent equipment especially if you intend to do any deep-sky stuff. Deep sky will require long exposures and a good deal of guiding. I was successful in getting several shots of Andromeda and a few nebulae. I also have several shots of Jupiter and a bunch of the moon. Nothing that would ever get publish.

      My point is again, Reg Coward's advice is on target. First look at some things in the night sky. Get a sense for what you can do and understand what the results might be. In combination with the advice you get from the club members, you'll have a good idea about what to buy.

      And if you live in the northern climate, I'd spend about $1000 on ways to stay warm or keeping mosquitoes off you.

      --
      An effective "democracy" creates the illusion the people have a say in their government.
    10. Re:A Great Camera? by ceoyoyo · · Score: 2, Informative

      Digital has a HUGE advantage over film in almost all areas of astrophotography. It's well worth getting a DSLR. You don't need full frame (for telescopic use full frame is fairly useless because the edges of the field in most telescopes are quite degraded). You can get an older model DSLR for less than what you'd spend the first year in film and processing.

      The real advantage of digital is sensitivity. Digital sensors capture a LOT more of the light than film does. Much of that sensitivity is swamped by noise, but if you take multiple exposures and stack them you reduce that noise, revealing faint objects. Stacking frames with film, besides being very difficult, isn't very useful because with film's lower sensitivity what you see is more or less what you get.

      You'd be far better off with a DSLR and no telescope than with a film camera and a telescope.

      The one exception I've found is star trails. I've still got my film SLR and it's unbeatable for that kind of shot. Long exposures you can't stack are still much easier with film.

  6. Go slow by Tablizer · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Hang out at astronomy clubs and go to their camp-outs and slowly glean more info before blowing a wad of cash. Maybe subscribe to Astronomy Magazine. However, don't be tempted by the ads to buy the Ultra-Mega-Scope. Work your way up slowly. And, purchase a good star map with all the common nebula's and galaxies marked. Also note that the best viewing targets tend to come out in the winter, so prepare yourself for cold weather.

  7. Why not binoculars first? by Starwanderer · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Yes, $1000 is a rather small budget where astrophotography is concerned. A good mount alone can cost many times that amount. Please don't skimp on the mount. I assure you, few things in life are more frustrating and miserable than attempting quality astrophotography on a cheap, inadequate mount.

    You can get a quality telescope for $1000, especially if you build your own. I grind my own mirrors because the mirror I make myself is quite a bit better than all but a very few of the ones commercially available. It's quite a bit of fun too.

    Your best course of action would be to hold off on getting a telescope for now. Get good astronomical binoculars ($200 - $400) and learn the sky. Once you've done that, you'll have a much better idea of exactly the aspects of astronomy that interest you and you'll have some additional time to decide upon the right equipment. You'll also have more time to save some additional money for qualityequipment.

    1. Re:Why not binoculars first? by Starwanderer · · Score: 3, Informative

      Yes, entry level. A lot of amateur astronomers have ground their own mirror for their first telescope. It's not a difficult thing to do at all, although I'm sure it might sound as if it would be to someone who hasn't done it.

    2. Re:Why not binoculars first? by FireFury03 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I grind my own mirrors because the mirror I make myself is quite a bit better than all but a very few of the ones commercially available. It's quite a bit of fun too.

      Can you provide information on how the amateur grinds mirrors? What kind of equipment do you need?

      Thanks.

    3. Re:Why not binoculars first? by Starwanderer · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Sure. It's not nearly as much equipment as one might think. The Stellafane ATM pages http://www.stellafane.com/atm/atm_main.htm are a good starting place to learn about how it's done. The best book I've found on the subject is How to Make a Telescope by Jean Texereau. Another fine set of books are Amateur Telescope Making - Volumes 1, 2, and 3 by Albert G. Ingalls (Editor).

    4. Re:Why not binoculars first? by nacturation · · Score: 2, Funny

      Can you provide information on how the amateur grinds mirrors? What kind of equipment do you need? I would recommend this link:

      http://www.google.com/search?q=information+on+how+the+amateur+grinds+mirrors?+What+kind+of+equipment+do+you+need?
      --
      Want to improve your Karma? Instead of "Post Anonymously", try the "Post Humously" option.
    5. Re:Why not binoculars first? by tom17 · · Score: 2, Informative

      I just spent the last hour or so googling and investigating this since his comment. I love making stuff so this intreagued me.

      There is plenty of stuff out there about it. Basically you start from a blank piece of plate glass or Pyrex (or portals it seems) and you make yourself the 'tool'- The tool is a convex shaped lump usually with small porcelain tiles on the working surface (A glass tool was traditionally used but this means using a second blank just for that so making your porcelain tiled tool is cheaper for the DIYer). The tool is made using the glass blank as a mould to get the approximate curvature for the tool correct.

      Then with the 'tool' you work through differing grades of carbide grinding pastes, then aliminium oxide paste until you get the curve close. Then for the polishing, you cover the tool in optical grade pitch (a gooey stuff from trees or something), and then use fine polishing compound that I have forgotten the name of.

      Then you need to get the glass coated in a suitably reflective surface, usually aluminium it seems.

      2 things that bug me about this. (Things I did not work out before getting back to work)

      1. How do you make the 'tool' curved on a flat blank. I assume you need to do the rough cut first and I did not find anything about this.
      2. Depositing the aluminium is apparently done by specialists with vacuum chambers, thus taking it out of the DIY realm. This bothers me. I don't mind buying premade blanks but it'd be nice if all the processes could be DIY.

      I'm sure there are easy to find answers to those 2 points but I will find them if I ever try to make one myself - an intreaguing prospect when I have a house.

    6. Re:Why not binoculars first? by Lumpy · · Score: 3, Informative

      You can get a quality scope that will WOW you for far less than that. Orion Skyquest X10 classic. 10" Dobsonian that blows away everyone that looks in it for $550. Go up to 12" and kick the crud out of almost all Cassegrain scopes for $870 and get something that can blind you by looking at the moon! it has fantastic quality all over it. and YES I have taken photographs with it. no not long exposure but then that's advanced and not entry level like the question asked.

      For a grand I can set someone up for basic entry level easily out of an orion catalog. That is where he needs to start. and he also needs to stay away from anything smaller than 8" primary mirror size.

      Oh if it's a refractor telescope, dont touch it. Short of professional 6 figure versions I never looked through a refractor scope that was worth it's weight in scrap aluminum.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    7. Re:Why not binoculars first? by szyzyg · · Score: 2, Informative

      Oh you are more than a littel harsh with refractors..... I use mine for imaging and the tube (sans mount) costs $200 from Orion's catalogue. Sure you get less aperture for your money, but you also have to deal with fewer alignment issues and it has a lot less coma than reflectors (unless you want to spend $$$ on a paracorr).

  8. Try building a telescope by Derwood5555 · · Score: 5, Informative

    When you go to your astronomy club's meeting, see if they have a group that builds telescopes. Building your own telescope is a great way to save a lot of money, plus you'll learn a lot in the process.

    If you're lucky enough to be in the SF bay area, the Chabot Observatory Telescope Maker's Workshop is a great place to learn about telescopes, and also how to build them. They can guide you through the process, and its really not as hard as you might think. http://chabotspace.org/vsc/observatory/telescopemakers/

    If you want to hold of on astrophotograpy for a while, I recommend picking up a Dobsonian mount telescope. They're a low cost design, and you can find 10 and 12 inch reflectors for $800. Also, they're easy to build, which goes back to the building your own comment earlier.
    Dobsonians are not suitable for photography though. But, they are a cheap way to break into backyard astronomy.

  9. Best advice I got by BuR4N · · Score: 4, Interesting

    The best advice I got (now in retrospective) when starting out was to buy an telescope that was easy to take out and setup, the best scope is the scope you use often.

    --
    http://www.intellipool.se/ - Intellipool Network Monitor
    1. Re:Best advice I got by Spackler · · Score: 4, Insightful

      The best advice I got (now in retrospective) when starting out was to buy an telescope that was easy to take out and setup, the best scope is the scope you use often.

      I SECOND THIS. I can not say it strong enough. This is THE most important advice for someone just getting in to astronomy. So many people as they are buying their first telescope take the wrong road.

      There are 3 roads to take here.

      Road 1: It's only $129 and it magnifies 8000 TIMES. - The trap is that the optics are junk in it.

      Road 2: I will see more deep sky stuff with a 10 inch dob, or a 12 inch SC. - The trap is that it sits in the basement, unused. It is too much of a pain to just get out on a wonderful night, so it sits. This is the advice the poster above was giving you.

      Road 3: A nice middle of the road scope that fits your budget and you use all the time to learn the sky and see things that are amazing.

      As others have said, the astrophotography aspect of it is really going to be above your budget. Sure, you can get the "webcam converted to a starscope", but it is junk. Stay within your budget, and get a nice scope for yourself. One that you can get outside at the drop of a hat. Not something that becomes an anchor.

      Let me quote him again:

      The best advice I got (now in retrospective) when starting out was to buy an telescope that was easy to take out and setup, the best scope is the scope you use often.

      That was the best advice I got as well. The best one is the one you will use. I guess that means smaller is better in this case.

  10. get an Apochromatic Refractor by Janek+Kozicki · · Score: 4, Informative

    $1000 is not much. I've been doing research quite a long time on what should I buy, to get the best possible view both for planets and deep-sky. You know - usually for deeps skies a newton with huge mirrors is good, while they are not applicable for planets, because newtons cannot produce big magnification with enough detail. While for planet viewing the refractors are the best, because they can produce big magnifications without the distortions of newtonians. But refractors have too small aperture to collect enough light for comfortable deep-sky viewing.

    The best balance in this big_mirror/refractor conflict is an apochromatic refractor. Because - apochromatic means that the lens are covered with special layers that give about 96+% of light transmission (so it's better than non-apochromatic refractor, where some light is wasted on the lens and you don't see deep-sky objects clearly), and special layer eliminates light dispersion like in an optical prism (otherwise each color would go on a different path and the resulting picture of something looked more like a rainbow instead of beight sharp). And also as a refractor it's good for planets. But... this APO refractor has to have big aperture, or it won't work for deep-sky anyway.

    Refractors have some other advantages - for instance you don't have unnecessary air flow between the lens because they are inside a tube. Newtons are much brighter (good for deep-sky) but air turbulence blurries the view on planets.

    Oh, and forget about cassegrains, they are compact, that's true (the only advantage). But the view is terrible.

    Well if you have just $1000 you gotta decide: (1) want to see distant galaxies (newton), or (2) view to see planets (refractor). But I suggest to spend a bit more cash and get APO refractor. Should be good for both.

    You can look at those reviews I had bookmarked long time ago: http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=1260 and http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=32&pr=2x6x17

    You can consider Takahashi also, althought from my research it looks like TMB make better equipment, but you never know that for sure: http://www.tmboptical.com/itemsGrid.asp?cat_id=4 .

    --
    #
    #\ @ ? Colonize Mars
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    1. Re:get an Apochromatic Refractor by Astro+Dr+Dave · · Score: 5, Insightful

      I'm a moderately experienced amateur astronomer, and a professional astrophysicist. I have a nice TMB 105 apochromatic refractor, and I would never recommend one to a beginner. Good apo refractors have impeccable quality, but they are not cost-effective, unlike a halfway decent 10" Newtonian (which will cost 1/4 as much, yet give far superior views).

      Aperture is king. Aperture wins. You can never get enough aperture

      My advice is to forget about astrophotography for the moment. Do not get a DSLR camera -- you will want a dedicated astro-camera with a cooled CCD sensor. You will also want a good equatorial mount (Losmandy, Astro-physics, or similar) which will cost at least ~$2000. Deep-sky astrophotography is expensive and for the moment, you're better served with a good visual instrument to get you started. (If you just want to take images of the moon and planets, you can get by with a webcam and a lower cost equatorial mount.)

      With a $1k budget, you won't be able to do deep-sky astrophotography. Given your budget, the economics of astro-imaging, and the difficulty of putting a large telescope on a quality equatorial mount, your best bet is to forego imaging until you can save a substantially larger amount of money. In the meantime, get yourself a 10" or larger Dobsonian-mounted Newtonian. They may look cheap, but you will appreciate the aperture when viewing deep-sky objects.

      Oh, and join a local astronomy club if you can.

    2. Re:get an Apochromatic Refractor by Phroon · · Score: 3, Informative

      $1000 is not much. I've been doing research quite a long time on what should I buy, to get the best possible view both for planets and deep-sky. You know - usually for deeps skies a newton with huge mirrors is good, while they are not applicable for planets, because newtons cannot produce big magnification with enough detail. While for planet viewing the refractors are the best, because they can produce big magnifications without the distortions of newtonians. But refractors have too small aperture to collect enough light for comfortable deep-sky viewing. The best balance in this big_mirror/refractor conflict is an apochromatic refractor.
      You seem uninformed on the caveats of refractor vs. reflector designs. You have the basic ideas right, but your reasoning is a bit flawed, let me try. Refractors are a lensed design, the problem with lenses is that they do not bend all colors the same amount, that is their refractive index varies by wavelength. To correct this most telescopes use a achromatic doublet, which converges most colors except for the near purple end of the spectrum, resulting in a purple haze around the object your viewing. Recently the concept of an apochromatic has reached the consumer, in which a doublet or triplet with exotic glasses are used to focus much more of the visible spectrum than achromatic reflectors. This results in a perfect image with no obstructions in the objective (I'll get to this in a moment). However, the exotic glasses are extremely expensive, resulting in a small aperture for the money.

      Reflectors, by contrast, are a mirrored design. Mirrors bend all light the same amount, so they do not have the chromatic problems. The issue with reflectors is that the secondary mirror has to be in the path of the light that hits the primary mirror, so there is a "shadow" of the secondary mirror and it's supports on the primary mirror. This does not create a hole in the image, but the secondary and it's supports do diffract light around them, resulting in stars that have a spike around them. The Hubble is a reflector design, and shares these diffraction spikes. Reflectors also suffer from coma distortion.

      What it comes down to then is Aperture vs Obstructions. Aperture (the size of the primary focusing element): Reflectors have much larger apertures than similarly priced refractors. A higher aperture allows you to see darker of objects, it allows you to use a higher magnification and increases how much detail is present at higher magnifications.
      Obstructions: These lower the amount of light getting to the primary mirror and cause diffraction in the image. The reduction in light is acceptable for reflectors as they have a large unobstructed aperture. The issue is diffraction with bright objects, mainly planets and stars. For stars, it simply causes a starburst pattern in the image, but for planets the diffraction of the circular secondary becomes important because planets are extended objects with details. With stars this circular diffraction simply increases the brightness of the sky surrounding the star, but for planets this slightly blurs the image of the planet which some feel is unacceptable.

      The telescopes you've listed are in the $10,000 and above range, very far above the poster's $1000 budget. I couldn't even find a mounted 80mm semi-apo (the minimum aperture I'd suggest for planetary viewing, let alone deep sky) for under $1000. For sub-$1000, a reflector wins over a refractor hands down simply because there are no apos in this price range. The aperture of a reflector simply destroys the possible advantages an refractor in this range due to the chromatic aberration on planets, plus you can do deep sky observing with a sub-$1000 reflector and still be happy with the planets you can see.
    3. Re:get an Apochromatic Refractor by E-Lad · · Score: 2, Informative

      This man speaks the truth.

      Seriously, you want to learn the sky and the gear before you try photography. That's a whole different world.

      First, like the parent of this post, I would also suggest a 10" Dobsonian telescope, specifically an Orion Inteliscope XT10. This scope will run you about $700 on average.

      Second, while the XT10 or whatever scope you get will come with an eyepiece or two, you'll still want to invest in more eyepieces. Eyepieces comprise half of the telescope. Initially with your scope purchase, if it's a dobsonian, I would recommend a Televue 7mm Nagler.

      Third, go to Home Depot, get a metal tool case (not a box... you want one of those briefcase things made by Husky) and start making a parts box to keep your eyepieces and other things in.

      Fourth, get a red flashlight, a Planisphere, and a sky atlas. These, especially the red-light flashlight, are indispensable.

      Fith, for extra credit, get a Telerad. You really wan to learn the sky? Try star-hopping with a Telerad. Telerads also make zeroing in on stuff easier. You use it to get your scope pointed in the correct general area, zero in on the object with the finder scope, and view through the eye piece. For me, It realy cut down the time spent getting the scope pointed in the right direction so I can see what I want throught the finder scope.

      The above should start you out quite well, and be around your $1k budget.

      You may come across filters. Since we're coming up on the winter sky, there's only one filter I would suggest getting and that's a triple ionized oxygen filter (O-III filter). This will make the Orion nebula just pop out of the sky at you... but filters like these are expensive. The 2" O-III filter from Baader is typically around $250.

      Oh, and one thing about filters - even if all you have right now are 1.25" eyepices, buy the 2" filters. There's a 2"-1.25" focuser adapter you can get from Astro Physics that is threaded on the inside for 2" filters. What does this mean? It means that you should only have to buy 2" filtes regardless of what kind of eyepiece you're using... ergo, you don't need to waste money buying separate 1.25" and 2" sizes of the same filter.

  11. Buy binoculars by Uther+Pendragon · · Score: 2, Informative

    Seriously, get a good (as in buy them from a proper telescope shop) set of binoculars and a decent camera tripod.

    Both are useful outside of astronomy and until you know whether you are really keen it's not worth spending lots of money. They are also great to use as spotters while you are using your real telescope as they have a fantastic field of view.

    I started with a pair of Gerber 10x50s which is getting to the limit of what I would consider comfortable to hand hold without a tripod. The tripod itself is a standard camera tripod with a binocular mounting bracket.

    Then start out with something simple like: http://www.skymaps.com/downloads.html to see what you should be looking at in the sky and getting familiar with the sky.

    Once you are happy that astronomy is right for you just have a go at lots of different telescopes that your local astronomy club members use and see what you like. Astronomy is a very expensive hobby, one that you might not like so just be careful

  12. check out the specialist internet groups by petes_PoV · · Score: 2, Informative
    There are many astro (and astro-photo) yahoogroups.

    They are well versed in helping beginners and will be able to give you advice and guidance on this fascinating hobby. They have their own experts who don't necessarily post here.

    As a starter, get the book "Turn Left at Orion". Read it. This will set your expectations of what you can really see. If you are still enthusiastic, go ahead and take advice on what equipment to buy. Be aware though that there are as many opposing opinions as there are people willing to offer you advice (including this one). You will still have to choose which ones you want to adopt.

    Good luck and clear skies

    --
    politicians are like babies' nappies: they should both be changed regularly and for the same reasons
  13. Budget too small by Cecil · · Score: 5, Informative

    You're not going to have enough budget to pull off any sort of astrophotography that will satisfy you, so I would recommend you start saving up.

    For astrophotography you absolutely *must* have an equatorial mount, it is simply impossible to do astrophotography with a stock altitude-azimuth mount, because while it can still track the sky as it moves, the view will rotate as it does so. With an equatorial mount, the view stays properly aligned even while it tracks the sky. German equatorial mount is the preferred mount for astrophotography. Even looking at just the mount you've pretty much blown your budget right there.

    Secondly, you're going to want a high quality right-ascension drive motor. It's possible to get by without one, though tedious and limiting, but don't bother with a cheap one. The gearing is insufficient for astrophotography and will cause jerking and backlash resulting in awful pictures.

    You'll also need to get a heavy duty mount and tripod, because a normal tripod is only designed for the weight of a telescope, not a telescope with a camera hanging off the end. You also need to make sure you've got a very sturdy, firm mount, because any vibration at all will ruin your pictures. Remember we're talking about huge magnifications and long exposures here, it's extremely easy to blur the pictures. Astrophotography is a challenging enough hobby to begin with. Inferior equipment can make it damn near impossible.

    You'll notice I haven't even talked about the actual telescope yet. That's how important the mount and tripod is to astrophotography. So now that I've completely blown your budget, I'll try and be a bit more gentle on the telescope side of things. Probably the most bang for your buck in this case will be a newtonian reflector telescope. They're by far the cheapest type of scope per inch of aperture. Sort of big and unwieldy, and they require very precise and regular maintenance (called collimation). I'd recommend a bare minimum of 5" aperture, but as high as 8" if you can manage it.

    Then you have to figure out how to mount your camera to the telescope, which is a black art in and of itself. Duct tape is not recommended. For most SLRs and telescope brands you can find a suitable T-mount adaptor which will allow you to attach your camera in place of the telescope's eyepiece. For non-SLRs, I'm not sure. If you were thinking of getting an actual astronomy CCD camera (such as the popular SBIG brand) well that alone will blow your budget and then a whole lot more. Then you'll want a second one to use it as an autoguider. :)

    Astronomy isn't cheap, but it is rewarding. Good luck and clear skies.

    1. Re:Budget too small by dargaud · · Score: 3, Informative

      Secondly, you're going to want a high quality right-ascension drive motor. It's possible to get by without one, though tedious and limiting, but don't bother with a cheap one. The gearing is insufficient for astrophotography and will cause jerking and backlash resulting in awful pictures. I'm not sure if this really applies anymore. Nowadays with a digital SLR attached you can take short exposures (just a few minutes) where the defects in alignment and stability won't show, and then stack the images in software. As an introduction to astrophoto it beats blowing thousands on an arch-stable mount.
      --
      Non-Linux Penguins ?
    2. Re:Budget too small by Lumpy · · Score: 2, Informative

      Incorrect.

      I shot many MANY photos including long exposures with a dobsonian scope and a tracking table. Less than $1000.00 spent on scope and table. It moves the whole scope as one with the sky and if you follow directions it is set up polar so it works well.

      Do I shoot incredibly dim deep sky objects? nope I only have a old SLR digital and a 10" dob, not enough light collecting capability for the distant stuff. But i got photos of the horsehead and other nebulas that upset the guys at the club that have a $15,000 scope setup for photography.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    3. Re:Budget too small by Zoinks · · Score: 2, Insightful

      It matters. Actually, what matters more is the actual exposure time vs. field of view. Just like in regular cameras, the higher the magnification (higher zoom), the narrower the field of view and the more sensitive the image will be to any motion during exposure.

      For planetary images, you can do pretty well with short exposures and using align/stack software. By short, I mean 1/30 to 1/2 second. This will get you pictures of Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn.

      For deep-sky stuff, you need to have much longer exposures, and you will often want a narrow field of view. For this, you will definitely need accurate RA tracking and a very accurate polar alignment. I have worked with up to 30 second exposures; this takes quite a bit of patience with a manual polar alignment.

      Really wide field photos with a digital camera and no telescope is a lot easier to do, but most regular digital cameras aren't that sensitive (lots of noise in long exposures).

      The equipment I have: 6" Matsukov-Cassegrain, Meade DSI color camera, plus an $800 mount (I forget the brand). This ran about $2.4K total.

      I guess my main point would be that astophotography requires quite a bit of patience, and does not produce the kind of pictures you see in magazines without a lot of extra work and a lot of really expensive equipment. I didn't start out on this path right away and wouldn't recommend it unless you have a lot of money to spend.

      Another way to look at it is everything I say here is wrong if you throw enough money at it!

  14. Lets see.... by Ecuador · · Score: 2, Informative

    I was an amateur astronomer for years before I switched to being just a computer geek (no dark skies where I live now). However, even if my Messier-marathon nights are over, I think I can still give some good advice. So, let us start with equipment. Since you really don't know what you are mostly interested in viewing, I would say get a 6" - 8" Newtonian reflector with a decent equatorial mount (you can find deals for much less than $1000), or if you want to stretch your budjet you could get a more compact Schmidt Cassegrain (again 6"-8" aperture). Go for either Celestron or Meade (with the latter probably being better but more expensive). This type of telescope will provide a rich viewing experience, for both planetary and deep space targets. It is also astrophotography ready (computerized or motor equatorial drives are usually standard).
    So, at first I recommend "testing the waters" for astrophotography. Find a cheap, old, mechanican Canon, Minolta etc SLR. Start with that, and if you are still interested you can invest to a CCD camera in the future.
    I can't recommend books, since been such a long time, except Stars and Planets by Peterson Field Guides which was a nice reference and gets updated once in a while. I was a fan of the Astronomy magazine for years. Sky & Telescope was also decent, you should certainly pick one of those up.
    I have also skipped the part about telescope accessories, but I do have to go to sleep now, so you'll have to do with the included eyepieces for now... ;)

    --
    Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent. Polar Scope Align for iOS
  15. dobson: newtonian reflector on dobsonian mount by Janek+Kozicki · · Score: 2, Informative

    Just a clarification, so you can compare what I'm talking about in my other post. A dobson is a newtonian reflector (has a huge mirror, and good brightness) with a dobsonian mount. Dobsonian mount is the cheapest possible. You cannot adjust it to the ecliptic plane, etc. Also such dobson is quite good for deep-sky (big mirror = big brightness), and terrible for planets (blurry view on high magnifications due to airflow turbulences and cannot track planet moevement on the sky due to cheap dosbon mount). Personally I'd advice against dobson, because after the initial enthusisam wears down, you get tired by the unconfortability of working with dobson mount. It's like using debian 4 years ago (eg. woody release) compared with comfort of using kubuntu today ;) So get a better mount if you can. But that's expensive too. Oh well, if you can't spend more than that $1000 you gotta buy just binoculars.

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    1. Re:dobson: newtonian reflector on dobsonian mount by jamie · · Score: 2, Informative

      I agree with basically all of what you're saying except the last sentence. It sounds like the person asking the question hasn't spent a lot of time looking at the stars and doesn't really know if it's going to turn into an occasional night out having fun or a serious time investment. For such a person, spending a few nights with a decent no-frills Dobsonian reflector finding celestial objects themselves will tell them how much they love the sky. If it turns out they really love it, they can invest thousands later in something computerized and motorized that points the scope for them and tracks the Earth's rotation -- maybe camera-ready, probably a Cassegrain.

      If you thought you maybe liked to draw, you probably wouldn't drop $4000 right off on a fast computer with a big screen, Photoshop, and a graphics tablet. You'd start with a good set of pencils and lots of paper, and first find out how much you really liked it.

      An 8" no-frills Dobsonian runs $500 (the Orion SkyQuest XT8 is what I'm looking at) and can be found at most hobby shops. If you have less than $1000 I think that's an excellent start, certainly much better than binoculars. It's a real amateur telescope, better than what most amateurs had in the first half of the 20th century I guess -- and our sky's the same as theirs :)

      The main thing I would add is to never buy a cheap refractor, they're basically binoculars on a stick... and never buy a telescope in a mall!

  16. Is there an "entry-level" for radio astronomy? by HarryCaul · · Score: 2, Interesting


    If so, what would a basic setup generally look like? Any pointers to sites?

    1. Re:Is there an "entry-level" for radio astronomy? by Tastecicles · · Score: 2, Informative

      A scanner capable of picking up along the 20cm band is a good start; this is the hydrogen band (H1) most commonly used in array radio astronomy for plotting the positions of strong radio sources. With a directional antenna such as a satellite dish it is possible to pinpoint "local" sources such as the sun and nearby microwave sources (such as ovens and wifi hotspots). Radio static is an indicator of background radiation from the Big Bang; analysis of this white noise is still keeping radio astronomers busy since its discovery.

      --
      Operation Guillotine is in effect.
  17. Celestia by lobotomir · · Score: 2, Informative

    I would also recommend Celestia, because in addition to simulating the night sky it lets you "travel" to points of interests -- the planets and nearby stars, so you can view them from different angles. Lively modding community around that one, too.

  18. I went through the same thing by Phroon · · Score: 5, Informative

    I went through the same thing. I was fresh to amateur astronomy and didn't know what to do. My first warning: Don't spend to little on a telescope. $180 for a StarBlast is the lowest I'd pay for anything decent (and it is, I drool over it as a quick 'plop down and observe' scope from time to time). Second Warning: Astrophotography is insanely expensive. As in 10+ times your budget. Don't do it. If you really want to do astrophotography take a camera, put it on a tripod, point at the sky, set it as wide as you can and expose for 15 seconds for digital, a few hours for film. The results are quite nice.

    Here's what my own experiences have taught me: Get a Dobsonian. With $1000 you can get a 10"-12" Dobsonian and still have tons of room for accessories. A dobsonian is very portable compared to a refractor and with near zero setup and takedown using it is much easier than a refractor too. 10" is a lot of aperture and you won't catch the "aperture fever" for something bigger for a while. The scope I eventually got is an Orion XT10 Intelliscope, but you may not want the computerization with your budget.

    I found the people at Cloudy Nights very, very helpful. They have reviews of lots of products as well as their forums and they tend to specialize in getting the most out of your money.

    As far as books go, I use Nightwatch by Terence Dickinson every night I observe just for the charts. Star Watch by Philip Harrington goes well with Nightwatch as good place to find new objects for the beginner. A lot of people suggest Turn Left at Orion, but I fount it to be a bit slow and the charts lacking in lower magnitude stars for their size.

    1. Re:I went through the same thing by slick_rick · · Score: 2, Insightful
      Going straight to astro-imaging is an recipe for a letdown. The best thing the submitter could do would be to first grab an old pair of binoculars and just learn the sky. Once he can name most every constellation on site he will already know where all the really cool "big" stuff in the sky is (all the Messier objects, as most are very apparent in any pair of binoculars under dark skies) and he will know where he needs to point his scope. THe first scope should probably be an 8-12" Dobson as it is trivial to setup and operate (an F6 8" is especially forgiving collimation wise also). Once he has done the whole visual observing thing for a while he will know whether the hobby might mean enough to him go onto astro-photography. If so he can buy or build an equatorial platform for the Dob and do some basic imaging with a CCD device. This will get him experience in stacking photos, aligning the scope, etc. If he is still interested at that point he can drop the $3-5k on a serious astro-photography setup.

      Or he can buy some cheap piece of junk mount and try to do astro-photography for ~ $1k and be very disappointed.

      My biggest piece of advice to the newby: Green laser pointer, you can see the beam. Mount it to your telescope, I built a mount of wood (drilled 3 holes, glued on two rare-earth magnets from think-geek, it took 10 minutes) or you can buy a $100 setup, but any way you cut it the green laser pointer will help you locate things in scope much, much faster. You simply aim the "canon" by pointing the laser at the spot in the sky you want to see. Other accessories very useful for the newb: right-angle corrected finder, laser collimator (get the "deluxe" so you can align your primary with the barlowed-laser approach)

      Get a barlow so you can use the barlowed laser approach to colimate your primary, it makes it dead-simple. The Barlow of course also can be used to double the "power" of all your eyepieces so you need less glass to get going (good glass is very expensive)

      Pay the $12 so you can shop at Astromart, you can pick up most everything 30-50% off there.

      You already joined your astronomy club, this is good, Cloudy Nights is a great resource too, the people in the beginners forum are extremely friendly and helpful. The one CloudyNights star party I went to (Buck-Eye-On-The-Sky) this summer was a great place to learn from the masters and it was a lot of fun too.

      Stelarrium rocks, there are a lot of other programs that work too, but Stellarium is dead-simple to use, perfect for the beginner, OSS, free, and it runs on anything with any 3d card.

      Most importantly, Have fun! Seriously though download Stellarium onto your laptop. Take it and any pair of binoculars you can find and go out tonight about an hour after dark. Look to the south for the "teapot" that is Sagittarius, the center of our galaxy. It is just exploding with star-clusters and is a delight through binoculars, and Stellarium will guide you through what there is to see in it. If that doesn't do it for you, then a telescope isn't gonna help ;-)

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      apt-get install redhat please god - Me (take it easy, I love Debian)
  19. One of the best pages I've ever seen by mambru · · Score: 2, Interesting

    http://www.astroimagen.com/

    The photos that this guy manages to take are stunning! He gives full details about the process and equipment. The web is in Spanish, I hope it won't be a problem.

  20. Low Buck, High Yeild by SoupIsGood+Food · · Score: 2, Insightful

    First things first... decide if you want the focus of the hobby to be the scopes or the stargazing.

    If you're serious about the stargazing, forget the pricey glass. Get a decent set of binoculars and a few good books, and one of those plastic "Star Wheel" sky charts.

    For the binocs, a basic pair of 10x70's will set you back a hundred and fifty bucks or so online. For the books, try Astronomy for Dummies and Left Turn at Orion. Also, your library will have back issues of Sky and Telescope - read 'em, and then visit their site. They have star maps you can print out that shows what's worth looking at each month. Try not to be too put out by their over-agressive marketeering.

    The learning curve will be steeper than a big-bucks robotic "Goto Scope" that aims and focuses for you, but with a nice lawn chair, some decent binoculars and a rough understanding of what you're pointing them at, a night under the stars won't fail to deliver a few thrills.

    Once that gets old, then look into the big-money glass. Telescopes, on their own, are a pretty damn rewarding hobby, especially once you get into making and modding them yourself. But unless you really, really know what you're after, dropping a grand on glass isn't a good idea. It likely won't be anywhere near what you want once you understand what that is.

  21. Start small... by Tastecicles · · Score: 3, Insightful

    A decent pair of wide field binoculars and a good sturdy tripod (20x60's weigh like 6 pounds so a tripod is a must). I recently picked up a pair of 20x75 Russian bins for less than £200 (US$400) and a surveyor's tripod for £30 (US$60). If you have an SLR camera with an M42 mount it wouldn't be a stretch to build a ring adapter for one side of the binocular and spot with the other side, you can get some good closeups of the moon and some of the brighter deepsky objects (LMC/SMC/M33/M42, etc.). Being in the middle of a city I found that film was getting a bit expensive particularly with a lot of shots being spoilt by streetlighting bloom, so I started to experiment with CMOS and CCD. I quickly came to the realisation that a supercooled CCD was far more sensitive than any film, and so went for broke and bought a cheap secondhand palmcorder. A freon cooling system later and I'm taking shots of the Pleiades cluster in the middle of a major metropolis!

    --
    Operation Guillotine is in effect.
  22. Non budget-breaker suggestions by baldeagle21b · · Score: 2, Informative

    Either a Meade ETX or a small Newtonian on a equatorial mount for the scope. Either one will give you a motor-driven imaging platform that you need for any kind of astrophotography. For a camera suggestion, if you have a notebook computer, an inexpensive webcam ($115 or so), and a free program called Registax will get you into lunar and planetary photography without breaking the bank.

  23. Good binoculars, star charts, and a red flashlight by mikehoskins · · Score: 5, Informative

    I read in an astronomy magazine that a budding astronomer should first buy a high powered pair of binoculars (10mm x 50mm) and star charts, plus a red LED flashlight.

    That way, you get used to pointing out where things are in constellations. You also find out if you can handle the long nights, getting your eyes used to darkness and waiting, waiting, waiting.

    It takes about an hour to get used to the darkness. Red LED flashlights also keep your eyes dilated, having little effect on night vision.

    If you get good at doing things the "old-fashioned way", then buy from somebody on EBay, who spent the big bucks and found out they weren't as interested as they originally thought.

    Worst case, you got a good pair of binoculars and saved about a grand.

    Best case, you learned a lot more about astronomy and will be able to find anything by constellation.

    Of course, download and use Stellarium. They have a red night vision mode you can take with you on a laptop. (I'd still recommend dimming the display as much as possible and enabling a 1 minute monitor shutdown, to keep your eyes).

    Also, go to http://heavens-above.com/ for more information about tracking objects in the sky. (Be sure to synchronize your clock to the atomic clock, since satellites and other objects wait for nobody). Watching satellites pass is a good way to keep yourself interested in astronomy, while you wait, wait, wait.

    Heavens-above.com and Stellarium are excellent planning tools, as are your handy star charts.

  24. Go to your meeting first by YGingras · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Do not buy anything, except binoculars and a star finder, before you go it a starry night party and try a few instruments. Good binoculars will cost 20$ to 100$, something like 7x50 to 10x50 will be perfect. You don't need Celestron or Bushnell binoculars; any no-name brand will do as long as you have a 50mm apertume.

  25. First get into astronomy, then astrophotography by jalex0 · · Score: 2, Informative

    My advice - learn the sky first. There's tons to see, and you'll need practice finding it. If you've been interested in astronomy, maybe you already have used binoculars (which is a good start) to scan the sky. If you're in a hurry and want to get your first telescope, I'll give the advice that was given to me -- get a Dobsonian reflector. Dobs are very easy to set up, don't require alignment, and are generally lighter (important if you're planning on carrying your scope). The downside is that you have to manually track what you're looking at, and simply can't do astrophotography. As many people have said, you'll have a hard time getting a good telescope with a good mount with a drive system for under $1000. What you can do is spend ~$500 on something like the Orion SkyQuest XT8 Intelliscope (that's what I have and I love it), use it for a while (maybe a couple years depending on how frequently you take it out) and get to know the night sky, then when you've saved up that $1000 again in your astronomy budget, get a nice equatorial mount for it with a drive system, put some rings on the tube and attach it to the mount instead of the Dobs base. Oh, and order a Barlow lens along with the scope. Also, I really enjoy having a solar filter - why limit your telescope to night use??

    The time you spend learning the sky with your Dobs will also help you decide if you want to spend the extra money for the fancy mount, camera, etc.

    One thing I'll point out that may be blindingly obvious to some, but comes as a surprise to others... for the most part, images in your telescope appear in black-and-white to the naked eye. There simply isn't enough light for your eye to detect color. Once you get a spiffy camera and that fancy mount, the longer exposure pictures will get you all the color you want.

  26. Re:Good binoculars, star charts, and a red flashli by dumb_jedi · · Score: 3, Informative

    I'm an amateur astronomer myself and Mike's advice is perfect. Astrophotography is addicitive, but needs planning and patience. As I assume you don't own an telescope yet, my advice is to buy a good binocular. If you still want to buy an telescope, buy a cheap ( not cheapo ) one, around US$ 250, with EQUATORIAL mount, that's VERY important. Get used to it, learn what you like the most to observe ( deep-sky objects, planets, moon, variable stars, nebula ), learn how to align your telescope so it can track the sky movement's. Then borrow from someone an old SLR camera, with film. Yes, that's right, not a digital one. Couple in your telescope ( you'll need an adapter ) and read some FAQs, ask help from your astronomy club and play with the settings, see how they change the result. You can use a webcam for that too, and some software like Registrax to stack the pictures, the result is amazing! After you get to know the dirty details, you'll know what's the best equipment to buy, the best DSLR camera. One tip: it's not about the camera or the telescope. I've seen AMAZING pictures taken with an old SLR with a home-made refractor telescope, mounted on a US$ 500 mount. It's about the MOUNT, spare no expense here. Spend 1000 on a mount and 200 on a telescope, you'll get GREAT pictures. Dark skies for you!

  27. Re:Good binoculars, star charts, and a red flashli by frdmfghtr · · Score: 2, Informative

    That's all very good advice.

    I've take to using my binoculars more than my telescope. While I don't get the aperture with the binoculars, I do get the ease of instant set-up time and a wide field of view so I can see not only the various objects in the sky, but also the star field around them.

    The wide field of view helps you learn the sky too. You get the big picture when learning what is what up in the sky, which makes finding things easier down the road with a telescope.

    Another little tidbit--don't be so quick to use the "Go To" function all the time. Star-hopping from point to point will help you learn the sky's landmarks, how to use and control your telescope, and you might come across something that you have never seen before (think driving across country and discovering sights that you would miss in an airplane).

    --
    Government's idea of a balanced budget: take money from the right pocket to balance...oh who am I kidding?
  28. Re:Good binoculars, star charts, and a red flashli by OwnedByTwoCats · · Score: 4, Informative

    One of my earliest astronomical memories (aside from the shows at the local planetarium) was standing on a friend's driveway just after dusk. He says to me, pointing at a bright point of light against the rapidly darkening sky, "hey, I bet that's Saturn". He ducks into the garage, and drags out a 8-ish inch reflector telescope his dad had made. He lines it up, adjusts the focus, looks, and then invites me to have a look. Boom, there it is. Just like in all the picture books, only live, in front of my eyes.

    So look at the planets through your scope. It should be bright enough to resolve any of the naked-eye visible planets as discs. You should be able to see the phases of Venus.

    On my desk I have a picture of Comet Hale-Bopp. I took it with a 35mm film camera, with a 100-200 mm zoom lens set all the way out. Tripod, Kodacolor Gold color film (although there isn't any color in the print.) I thought I would want to take more astro-photographs, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

  29. Re:Astronomy software & Photography by greedyturtle · · Score: 2, Interesting

    The other two mentioned are also open source and run on linux. It actually begs the question: Are commercial programs such as these even available?

    I'd also like to know if any professionals use these (Celestia, Kstars and Stellarium) or if they have their own fancy-pants versions.

  30. The Second Thing I'd do..then 3rd..then 4th... by Liquidrage · · Score: 2, Informative

    Is whatever scope you get, get a Telrad for it. A Telrad is a zero reflex finder. It lets you point the scope with your eyes open looking through a non-magnified view with a projected set of concentric circles on your target. Even with a Goto mount, the Telrad is what I would call a necessity.

    My experience went from a few seasons of frustration, to actually being able to easily find deep space objects and planets in the scope, the moment I got a Telrad.

    Also, concerning software, Cartes du Ciel is a freeware astronomy program that is very robust and probably the most common outside of Stary Night.

    My advice for a purchase it perhaps an Orion ED 80 on a Sirus goto mount. You'll crack just over a grand, but it's a quality set up the price. It's not a Tak sitting on a Losmandy, but it'll work.
    Another option, especially for the photography part, would be to try and find a Meade SN-8 OTA used. You can't get the OTA alone brand new. And still get the Sirus mount.
    The Atlas EQ-G mount is perhaps the best bang for the buck in astronomy, but that's about $1,500 by itself. The Sirus is it's little brother.

    For best results you're also going to need to guide your scope taking the pictures. So you'll need to mount a second guide scope, or use what they call an off-axis guider. The first option is preferred. And it gives you the option of manual guiding, or getting a second imager, and autoguding.

    My last little bit of advice. Typically, dedicated CCD imagers work better then dSLRs for astrophotography. I use a a couple of different Canon dSLR's and you can get the job done with them. Though you're not going to be able to get some targets well unless you get them modified to remove the IR filters they come with. The Meade DSI Pro can be found right now for about $100. And at that price is a super bargian.

    Be warned, it's an expensive hobby. As I've said before, astronomy is a hobby where free software abounds, yet a simple 2" long piece piece of 2" machined tubing will cost you $100. The tech side of it is free. Everything from planetarium software, to focusing software, to control software can be found free. But the

  31. Re:Good binoculars, star charts, and a red flashli by MarsDefenseMinister · · Score: 2, Insightful

    True, but that's not the typical advice given. The advice typically given is binoculars, with no mention of a tripod and binocular mount.

    Plus, a nice 10 inch dob gives bright images, it's a quality instrument, you can get fancy electronic setting circles, and they don't cost much at all.

    Besides, when a kid says he wants a telescope, he wants a telescope! Not binoculars, but something that looks like a telescope.

    At the end of the day, M-43 in binoculars is NOTHING compared to M-43 in a 10 inch Dobsonian scope with a quality eyepiece. Images and experiences like that are what make astronomers out of wide-eyed kids. Binoculars are for the birds (watchers).

    --
    No weapon in the arsenals of the world is so formidable as the will and moral courage of free men.-Ronald Reagan
  32. Re:Astronomy software & Photography by Technician · · Score: 2, Insightful

    I just downloaded the PDF user manual. It isn't clear on one point.

    I use Astroplanner for all of my observing and planning. It will draw the stars as they appear in the eyepieces of you telescope, so you can compare and make sure you are looking at what you think you are looking.

    It mentions pointing and clicking an item in the manual and then clicking Go to drive your mount to the object. This drive to an object, is it then tracking the object, or is it a one shot to there while waiting the next Go as the star drifts out of view?

    Can you answer this? Are you using it with a motorized mount?

    --
    The truth shall set you free!