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5 Powerline Networking Devices Reviewed

An anonymous reader writes "Most people who can't or won't hardwire for broadband have an obvious alternative: Wi-Fi. Unfortunately, there can be architectural anomalies between floors or even between rooms that can interfere with Wi-Fi signals, resulting in spotty, or even dead, signals. So what do you do? Well, you can try using a powerline device. Computerworld reviewer Bill O'Brien tests powerline units from Belkin, D-Link, Linksys, Netgear and Zyxel, and compares their performance to that of his wired and wireless setups."

25 of 153 comments (clear)

  1. I remember these... by houstonbofh · · Score: 3, Informative

    They used to be kind of squirrely, and WiFi was just so much better. But with the explosion of interference, it might be time to look again.

    1. Re:I remember these... by Shakrai · · Score: 3, Informative

      I'd be worried that my neighbours would be able to listen in over their power lines.

      If your using cable and your cable provider doesn't bother to use BPI (Time Warner doesn't, in my area anyway) then they have a much more direct way to listen to your communications -- the downstream portion anyway.

      --
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  2. Only metric is time to transfer 8.05 GB? by corsec67 · · Score: 3, Insightful

    What about packet loss, ping, ping jitter and resistance to interference?

    Bulk transfer is useful, but may not be important to gamers or people who want responsive.

    --
    If I have nothing to hide, don't search me
    1. Re:Only metric is time to transfer 8.05 GB? by Shakrai · · Score: 4, Interesting

      How about they try turning on a toaster, microwave, dish washer, space heater or some other high consumption device as well? I played around with these back in the day and somebody turning on a toaster in the different room on a completely different circuit was enough to murder my connection.

      There are still a few hitches. Here in the U.S., we tend to run split-phase wiring. The electrical service enters our homes as 240 volts made up of two 120V lines (or legs). Our 120V outlets are derived from tapping off one or the other of those 120V legs. As a result, you may not be able to network devices that are plugged into outlets on different legs.

      Good catch on the different legs of split phase. Always wondered about that. Guess they can't use the ground wiring for some reason?

      --
      I want peace on earth and goodwill toward man.
      We are the United States Government! We don't do that sort of thing.
    2. Re:Only metric is time to transfer 8.05 GB? by hansamurai · · Score: 4, Informative

      I have a Linksys PLK200 set connecting my living room to my basement router and over that I:

      Stream HD movies from Netflix
      Stream tons of other content from my media server
      Play online games over Xbox Live
      Surf the internets

      All without a problem. But then again I also use a wireless mouse and an LCD monitor to play first person shooters...

      I've also noticed no problems due to microwaves or the dishwasher.

    3. Re:Only metric is time to transfer 8.05 GB? by gad_zuki! · · Score: 4, Insightful

      >What about packet loss, ping, ping jitter and resistance to interference?

      Heck, how about reporting in standard units? Time it takes to transfer his porn collection in a zip archive, i mean 8.05gigs of data? What the heck is that? How about just running iperf and reporting standard mbps.

    4. Re:Only metric is time to transfer 8.05 GB? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

      Similar experience here - I have the 200MBit Devolo plugs in the UK. It's a 10y/o house (so modern circuit breakers etc which no doubt help).

      Powerline has provided a far more reliable connection for me than wireless, and I can happily transfer HD video to my media box, and access the internet simultaneously on it (which is basically all it needs to do).

      Setup-wise, I'd definitely recommend them to non-tech-savvy friends too - no messing with settings, literal plug and play.

      Obviously UK and US electrical systems have marked differences, so YMMV.

      I'm surprised by all the people complaining about electrical interference but who haven't complained about wireless interference. My boiler (with faulty relay - now fixed) used to be able to disconnect my internet access by upsetting my wireless router with interference alone. I've found the powerline cable to be much more reliable in this regard. Then again NB that UK wiring keeps major electrical items on a different circuit to the main house sockets.

    5. Re:Only metric is time to transfer 8.05 GB? by unitron · · Score: 4, Informative

      Since the "ground", the third wire, the bare or green wire, properly known as the "grounding" conductor, is, at radio frequencies, somewhat separated from the "neutral", the white wire, properly known in a 120 Volt circuit as the "grounded" wire (it and the "grounding" wire are tied together at the meter base only)(it's only the "neutral" in a 240 volt circuit where you have 2 "hot" wires 240 volts apart and each 120 volts away from the neutral), you should be able to insert a radio frequency signal between the "ground" and the "neutral" and have the "neutral" act as antenna, which would solve the "are you on the same leg or not" problem, since the "neutral" is common to both 120 Volt sides.

      Don't know how Underwriters Lab and the National Electrical Code folks would feel about it, though, or whether it might "confuse" Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters.

      Anyway, I hope it works better than those NICs that used (or tried to) the telephone wiring--Home Phone Network Alliance, or something like that.

      --

      I see even classic Slashdot is now pretty much unusable on dial up anymore.

  3. Wow... by fuzzyfuzzyfungus · · Score: 5, Funny

    A little slow; but at least they are flaky and expensive, so I give them a thumbs up.

    1. Re:Wow... by hansamurai · · Score: 4, Funny

      Sounds like my ex.

    2. Re:Wow... by peektwice · · Score: 4, Funny

      nah, she wasn't all that expensive.

      --
      Other than this text, there is no discernible information contained in this sig.
  4. Heat by Jon.Laslow · · Score: 3, Informative

    Flipped through the article, but what I'd like to know is if they've improved heat dissipation on these things. I tried a few different makes years ago (back when the best you could hope for out of them was ~10Mbps), but after about a month they'd cook themselves to death unless you modded them with vents and fans.

    1. Re:Heat by athakur999 · · Score: 3, Informative

      I have a pair of cheap Airlink adapters from Frys that have been running well for several months now, despite them both being enclosed in areas with poor airflow. I use them to connect the Xbox (running XBMC) in my bedroom with my router in the living room.

      The connection is fast enough to play back downloaded videos with zero issues. I tried some tests using computers at opposite ends of the house and was able to get around 3 or 4 MB/s transfer between them. My 802.11n wireless network usually peaks at around 6-8 MB/s, so while it is slower, it's not noticable for most tasks and still enough to max out my FIOS connection.

      --
      "People that quote themselves in their signatures bother me" - athakur999
  5. Seriously? by MBCook · · Score: 4, Insightful

    When your router/modem is "here" and you have one or more computers either upstairs or downstairs from that location -- or both! -- life begins to get complex. Hardwiring your network is fast and efficient, but it's often not a practical answer, especially for homes and small offices.

    What kind of small office wouldn't be able to run a piece of CAT5? If you can't afford to do that (and I'm including the done by hand up through the ceiling by the CEO method) then your company has bigger problems.

    Renters may have difficulty convincing their landlords to let them rewire a home or apartment that they don't own themselves. Even wiring your own place may not be fiscally feasible.

    $20 of CAT5, $10 of jacks, and a $20 fish-tape isn't fiscally feasible, but these gizmos are?

    In testing the power-line devices, I started with a room-to-room test where I plugged one of the modules into a [...] electrical outlet downstairs and the other module into [an older] electrical outlet upstairs.

    These real world speeds are pretty bad. The D-Link didn't even finish the test. It looks like they came out at about 2.4 MBps. His WiFi was 4x faster. Ethernet was 10x faster.

    I also set up the power-line equipment using a 90-foot extension cord into which one of the modules was connected downstairs; that extension cord was then plugged into the same outlet upstairs as the second module.

    Oh, yeah, that's a common test. Why is it you can't let the Ethernet cable hang through the hall again?

    Basically, this represented a connection through a length of electrical wire in which there were no phase leg, aging or wire condition problems. In a new home, or if you had an electrician run two outlets from your breaker box, you would probably find transmission times similar to these.

    Wanna bet? I've seen new houses where it was dumb luck (and incredible fault tolerance) that let the phone jacks work. When you try to go from one end of a new house to the other, or across floors, I doubt this will be representative of anything.

    (This was the setup I used when testing the power-line devices with video streams.)

    So these things can't stream video under real world conditions. Excellent.

    Finally, I plugged the two modules into the same outlet. In theory, with little to no electrical wire between them, this would be the fastest they could communicate with each other under any network load condition, offering performance under what would pass for ideal conditions.

    Nice to know the top speed, but obviously you'll never run into this case except in the same room. And if both boxes are in the same room... run the Ethernet cable hanging from the ceiling.

    If you really want to these kind of gizmos for your little office, how well do they work with 3 computers? How about 5? What happens if your 2.4 MBps goes to 0.3 when you add the 3rd computer? He mentioned that at least one has some kind of security. How good is it? Does it compare with WPA2? What are the chances the next office over is close enough (though the power lines) they could be on my network?

    Pull a wire. We fussed with WiFi for years, and it is often problematic. If you are in a house or office, pull the wire. It's no that hard (for the simple cases he is listing, like two rooms above one another). Get the land lord's permission if you don't own the place. It's not worth all the fussing you may end up having to do with WiFi (thanks to neighbor access points, cheap $30 APs, etc).

    --
    Comment forecast: Bits of genius surrounded by a sea of mediocrity.
    1. Re:Seriously? by Linker3000 · · Score: 4, Informative

      What kind of small office wouldn't be able to run a piece of CAT5?

      One in an historic ('listed' in the UK) building where any form of drilling through walls or fixing cables to the structure is not permitted - at least not without a craplaod of inspections and paperwork.

      Like my parents' 18th Century cottage.

      --
      AT&ROFLMAO
    2. Re:Seriously? by westlake · · Score: 3, Insightful
      $20 of CAT5, $10 of jacks, and a $20 fish-tape isn't fiscally feasible, but these gizmos are?

      not everyone is a twenty-something DIY geek eager to cut into the sheetrock.

      Why is it you can't let the Ethernet cable hang through the hall again?

      because your wife said no way in hell.

    3. Re:Seriously? by Chabo · · Score: 5, Funny

      Right now you can think freely, but they're working on that.

      --
      Convert FLACs to a portable format with FlacSquisher
    4. Re:Seriously? by Change · · Score: 3, Informative

      Plastic raceway.
      http://cableorganizer.com/surface-raceways/latching.html
      I use something similar to run speaker wire to my rear speakers. I have it run up the side and across the top of a doorframe to the corner of the room, then it goes up to the ceiling, and along the ceiling/wall edge to the speakers. It blends in fairly well.

      You can also pull up the edge of your carpeting and stuff cable under it (along the walls works well, but I wouldn't do that across a hallway or doorway), or remove your baseboards, cut a cable path into the drywall, run cable through it, and replace the baseboards.

  6. Re:Nicest thing about moving to the country by Shakrai · · Score: 4, Informative

    I don't even worry about encryption. WiFi range isn't 10 acres with the standard antennas

    Fixed that for you. You might want to rethink your policy about not encrypting your connection because you are out in the middle of nowhere.

    I used to work for a WISP. One day I was out in the field doing tests with a 24db directional antenna. My laptop automatically associated to my home network before I could direct it to connect to the network I was trying to troubleshoot. My house was a little over a mile away and the AP at home had the standard issue dipole antennas on it. Had enough signal strength to surf the web at full speed and transfer files off my server.

    Moral of the story: Don't underestimate what someone can do with a high gain antenna. Encrypt your network or don't come crying to us when the Feds kick down your door after someone uses your network to download kiddie porn, pirate software or threaten to kill the President.

    --
    I want peace on earth and goodwill toward man.
    We are the United States Government! We don't do that sort of thing.
  7. Re:Does this mean... by corychristison · · Score: 3, Insightful

    What if all your equipment is hooked up to a UPS?

    Wont work. Any line conditioning will kill all communications.

  8. Networking good, telephone bad by nsayer · · Score: 3, Interesting

    I bought a set of 3 of these for my parent's house and they worked really well for what we needed them to do - namely, to hook up the TiVos to the home network (these were the newer TiVos that only support the TiVo branded WiFi adapter, unfortunately). As I don't live in their town and was only there for the weekend to help, this was the quickest thing Fry's could arrange.

    It worked so well, that when I got home I was inspired to feed a phone line to our tv satellite receiver over a powerline box. That way, all 4 pair in the one cat5 run going to that spot could be used for Gigabit and the phone could go elsewhere. So I bought a set of the RCA phone line over power gizmos. The resulting phone line was so shitty-noisy that I wouldn't want to make a phone call over it myself, much less ask the DirecTV receiver to attempt it.

    I wound up buying a set of RTX DualJacks to solve the problem. They use 2.4 GHz to move the phone line and work perfectly, but they're nearly impossible to find anymore. I had to get them used on eBay.

    I'm a little annoyed that nobody has made a similar box to transport a phone line over Ethernet. Yes, there are VoIP solutions, but they're way too expensive and over-engineered for what I want. Just two boxes that talk to each other with raw Ethernet frames to move a phone line from here to there oughtn't to be too much to ask, but apparently is.

  9. The winner is obvious by 2phar · · Score: 3, Funny

    From personal experience, I have to say the Belkin Powerline AV+ unit is by far the best of the bunch here. Rock solid performance all the way. Look no further!

    Sincerely,
    Mark Bayard

  10. These things work...sometimes...if you're lucky by DrVomact · · Score: 3, Funny

    I tried using Netgear powerline devices to connect my outside security cameras to my router about a year ago. It kinda worked--as long as I didn't expect too much in the way of throughput—like streaming video instead of occasional JPEGs. I also had a couple of computers connected via Wi-Fi at the time, and was so (unreasonably) encouraged by this less than stellar success that I switched them over to powerline "warts" too. They worked pretty well.

    Then I moved my router to another room, and I haven't gotten these things to work ever again. Apparently, if your house wiring is just so, the powerline warts are fine; if the wiring—or the wiring between the points you are trying to connect—is not what the warts want, you won't get a signal.

    Somebody told me I should try one of those "bridges" that the X-10 people use to connect different parts of their home wiring so their X10 devices work, but messing with these things was giving me a worse chronic eyelid twitch than wireless. Luckily, I discovered that my youngest daughter has all the necessary qualifications for an excellent cable monkey—mainly, she's petite enough to worm her way through tight, dark spaces, and isn't afraid of spiders. So I just tied some CAT5 to her ankle and sent her into the attic. No more problems now, everything's connected. Wire is good.

    --
    Great men are almost always bad men--Lord Acton's Corollary
    1. Re:These things work...sometimes...if you're lucky by spandex_panda · · Score: 4, Funny

      So I just tied some CAT5 to her ankle and sent her into the attic.

      So err... you must let her out for sunlight every now and then right? Sounds good otherwise.

      --
      like phosphorescent desert buttons singing one familiar song
  11. Interference with Amateur Radio by ztransform · · Score: 4, Informative

    Can't we wait till the interference issues with radio communication are sorted out? See The ARRL site on this issue.