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Up To 10% of CD-Rs Fail Within a Few Years

Whatever you think about the likelihood that a new kind of DVDs could last for 1,000 years, this note from reader crazyeyes should give you pause about expecting current CD-Rs to be reliably readable for decades. TechARP found a failure rate near 10% for CD-Rs recorded 7 to 9 years ago, after storage in ideal conditions. On some, one or more individual files could not be recovered; others were not reliably readable on two separate drives. "In the past, hard disk drives were small (in capacity) and costly. To make up for the lack of affordable storage, many turned to CD-Rs. As it became common to store backups and personal pictures, videos, etc. on CD-Rs, the lifespan of these discs became a concern. According to manufacturers, CD-Rs should last for decades. Some even quoted an upper limit of 120 years based on accelerated aging tests! That sure is a long time, isn't it? But will CD-Rs really last that long?"

32 of 317 comments (clear)

  1. According to... by NervousNerd · · Score: 5, Insightful

    According to manufacturers, CD-Rs should last for decades.

    According to their marketing dept., rather.

    1. Re:According to... by goombah99 · · Score: 4, Funny

      Well you of course have to use an error correcting code. people who don't do that then blame the manufacturer's got what they deserved. For example, personally I get 120 years out of my CDs by encoding 699Megabytes of errorcorretion. this leaves me with 1 byte of data. but it last 120 years.

      --
      Some drink at the fountain of knowledge. Others just gargle.
    2. Re:According to... by suso · · Score: 4, Informative

      Exactly, in my own experience, I started using CD-Rs in 1996. Back in 2007, I spent the time to copy all my old CD-ROMs of value to a hard drive for archival. I found that pretty much all of them were readable, even the 5 or 6 that were from '96. The only one I had problems with was a hybrid audio/data disc that I foolishly wrote in a proprietary format. But 80 or so of the discs that were spread across all the years worked ok. I was actually surprised because I expected some to be unreadable. I do think its great that they are trying to improve the longevity of the discs though, but they should find a solution that doesn't require a special drive.

    3. Re:According to... by Jafafa+Hots · · Score: 4, Interesting

      While the GP was just joking, you CAN burn stuff to media with extra error correction of a sort. Burn it as rar files, with a certain percentage of the space devoted to par files. Redundant blocks that way - so if, say, 5% of the files are unreadable, you can reconstruct them. I suppose you could do the same thing across a series of discs, to be able to replace a bad disc.

      --
      This space available.
    4. Re:According to... by w0mprat · · Score: 4, Insightful

      I reccently went back to CD-Rs from the 90s, and didn't really think much of it. I have a stack of about 25%-30% unreadable CD-Rs from less than 5 years old. Interestingly these are mixed brands, some of the buggered ones.

      I would suggest as the cost per unit fell through the floor, so did any regard for quality control as well as the consumers lack of motiviation to drive all the way back to the store and get a replacement.

      --
      After logging in slashdot still does not take you back to the page you were on. It's been that way for 20 years.
    5. Re:According to... by KahabutDieDrake · · Score: 5, Interesting

      I used to work for a company that burned about 100 CDs a day. Half were kept as "backups" on site. The other half were shipped off to clients that were only going to use them once to transfer the days data to their server.

      About 4 years later we lost a drive array and wanted to restore from the CD backup. I set one of my people to offloading the CDs to a new set of drives. Meanwhile I went to our offsite backup and copied the relevant data back to the server in a few hours. Days later my employee comes back to me and says that "most" of the CDs are coasters and the data is gone. It turns out that about 1/3rd of the CDrs either didn't burn properly in the first place, or had failed in the 2-6 years they were on a shelf.

      The lesson was a simple one. The offsite backup server was faster, easier and more reliable than the CDRs. Of course, management blamed the (long since) fired employee that burned most of them. They also paid 5k$ for a brand new Mass burner / labeler, and used up nearly a week of production time getting it working and tested.

      A year later the clients all moved to USB thumb drives and or FTP transfer for the data, making the fancy mass burner obsolete.

    6. Re:According to... by hairyfeet · · Score: 5, Informative

      You can not only do that to ensure data, you can also use one of several free CD/DVD checking utilities and simply burn a new copy if the disc starts to go. I use DiskCheck to check the CD/DVD, which is free, and if I get a bad one I use Elprime Media Recovery which is not to recover it. With this combo I have been able to save discs that looked like my boys had used them for hockey pucks.

      But I have several discs from the days of my $300 1x DVD burner, and several from the days of my 12x CD Burner, and they are still readable. I just run the oldest discs through DiskCheck once a year and if it reports any troubles I make a new copy and chunk the old one. But CDs are...what? Like $15 for a 100? And DVD is $20 for 100? So replacing the discs that start to go bad with age is no problem, and lets face it, when they are cranking out discs for that cheap bad batches are bound to slip through occasionally, and I have my old 8x DVD Burner installed in a 733MHz I use for Win9x so checking is simply a matter of feeding it while I switch back over with my KVM to check results. But with a simple yearly check you can get your data back by simply getting it off before the media degrades. And I have had a lot less problem with CD/DVDs that have been sitting in a dark cabinet for 5 years than I have with HDDs that have done the same. YMMV of course.

      --
      ACs don't waste your time replying, your posts are never seen by me.
    7. Re:According to... by hairyfeet · · Score: 4, Informative

      Are they data or audio? Because if they are data you can use Elprime Media Recovery to get most of the data back. It is $39 but you can see with the demo if it is gonna work with your discs or not, and how much it will recover. I have used it to get a good 85-90% back off of discs that looked like they had been used as hockey pucks, as well as for a couple where the dye had started to go.

      So if you haven't tossed the discs you can probably get a good deal of your stuff back. And since you used buggered I assume you are British, which makes $39 USD...what? Like $2 in your currency? And while I can't say about CDs, as I haven't used them for anything but Linux liveCDs in ages, I can tell you there are a couple of DVD brands I would avoid like the clap. One is a bunch called Ilo, whose dye seems to go bad after about 9 months, and anything branded Staples. Do they have Staples in England? If so to quote the great Monty Python "RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY!" as I bought a couple of 50 packs there last Black Friday and a good 40% were coaster and the ones that burned correctly were in the garbage in less than 6 months due to bitrot. I have never seen a shittier brand in my life.

      I have found Ridata to be the best of the cheapos as far as CD/DVD is concerned. I rarely get more than 5% coasters and have had no trouble reading 5 year old DVDs from them. And at $20 USD for a 100 from Newegg you just can't beat the price. You can also keep an eye on Surpluscomputers.com as they often get Taiyo Yuden CDs there cheap. Oh, and OT, but if anybody needs a server cheap Surpluscomputers has dual Xeon 3GHz HPs for $129. They'll even sell you a 10 pack of IBM dual Xeon 2.4GHz 1u for $599. Great place for when you need some hardware for cheap.

      --
      ACs don't waste your time replying, your posts are never seen by me.
    8. Re:According to... by characterZer0 · · Score: 4, Informative

      If you have not tested your backup system, you do not have a backup system.

      --
      Go green: turn off your refrigerator.
  2. Depends on the brand by Goldberg's+Pants · · Score: 5, Interesting

    I've experienced this myself lately with a bunch of disks that were now useless. It was cheaper off brand disks that failed. The irony is at the time I got them, they were the ONLY disks I could get to work on my CD player.

    So far I've had no failure with CD-R's from Sony, TDK etc... Which were the disks my CD player simply would NOT play.

    1. Re:Depends on the brand by plover · · Score: 4, Informative

      By brand, you mean "manufacturer". Most big names, such as Sony, etc., don't make their own disks, but buy them from an external factory and place their own labels on them. The various manufacturers have different chemicals and dyes embedded in their discs, and its that chemical composition that determines the longevity.

      Usually the brand will buy discs exclusively from one factory, but some of the off-brands (such as house-branded Office Depot or no-name discs at Micro Center) could be sourced from anywhere, and their quality will vary widely.

      --
      John
  3. i have entire 1993 CD-R spindle by markringen · · Score: 5, Interesting

    i have entire 1995 to 1998 CD-R spindle's and all 400 of them still function just fine. i recently had to run trough all 400 of them, and had zero read errors. i guess my discs are possessed by some magical force, or this is just bogus.

    1. Re:i have entire 1993 CD-R spindle by willy_me · · Score: 4, Informative

      The earlier burners were expensive and better quality so it's probably more of a burner issue than a disk issue in this case.

      Not likely, burners do not affect the aging of disks. It is the dye on the Aluminum that ages and eventually kills the disk - typically a result of oxidization. Cheaper disks use cheaper dyes. The brand name disks are more expensive because they use dyes that are patented - and therefor more expensive to license. The plastic coating that protects the dye from oxidization is also likely to be different on the more expensive disks.

      Personally, I've only noticed flaws in the cheap disks - the brand name disks appear to age well. But the cheap disks are still very useful. I use then when distributing files to friends and family - this way I do not have to worry about getting them back.

    2. Re:i have entire 1993 CD-R spindle by camg188 · · Score: 4, Interesting

      From the TechARP article, "Also, this isn't a properly "calibrated" test in that the samples are based on a mixed bunch of CD-Rs - from cheap no-brand CD-Rs all the way to premium Kodak and Mitsubishi CD-R media."

      The 10% failure rate reported was from 1 person's experience copying old discs back to a hard drive. No mention was made of the CD hardware used or at what speed they were recorded at.

  4. Follow the Orange Book by La+Gris · · Score: 4, Insightful

    120yers, lets start with archive rated CD-R, and use a decent recorder with a tray. Then write according to the orange book specifications.

    --
    Léa Gris
  5. Were those disks verified? by msobkow · · Score: 5, Interesting

    I've had CD-Rs and DVD-Rs that I burned over a decade ago still read fine. However, those disks were verified burns where I immmediately read back the data with Nero to make sure they were ok.

    There was a time when I didn't do verified burns. Those disks have a ridiculously high failure rate, but I'm betting they were bad burns in the first place. With most media I get close to a 10% failure rate on verifying the burns.

    --
    I do not fail; I succeed at finding out what does not work.
  6. Not sure that hard drives are any better... by damn_registrars · · Score: 4, Insightful
    The summary seems to want to lead us to backing up on hard drives:

    In the past, hard disk drives were small (in capacity) and costly. To make up for the lack of affordable storage, many turned to CD-Rs.

    Though I'm not convinced many consumer hard drives have shelf lives on the same order as the optical media that some of us are backing up to. Add to that the fact that hard drive interfaces do change fairly often (some of us still have systems in the transitional period between IDE and SATA), and you could have potentially more irritating problems if you were to back up to hard drives instead.

    I suspect for paranoid user it may be more cost effective to backup multiple times to CD-R rather than to a hard drive. And on top of that, if one CD of your backup set goes, you are only out 700 MB or so. If you have a series of backups on a single 100+ GB hard drive, and it fails, you may be out everything that was on that drive.

    --
    Damn_registrars has no butt-hole. Damn_registrars has no use for a butt-hole.
    1. Re:Not sure that hard drives are any better... by Darkness404 · · Score: 4, Insightful

      It depends though, you can get SATA to USB docks for next to nothing and I don't see USB going out anytime soon, if anything the external HD will crash (or end up being terribly obsolete) before USB gets replaced with anything more than the next version of USB. I mean, with USB appearing on -everything- from cell phones, to game consoles, to cigarette port chargers and more, I just can't see it being replaced especially when some legacy ports are still on many computers (does anyone really connect their printer via parallel port anymore? and aside from legacy systems and embedded systems does anyone still use the serial port?)

      --
      Taxation is legalized theft, no more, no less.
  7. Re:doubtful by sakdoctor · · Score: 4, Funny

    I would say take the Rosetta Stone approach.

    Good advice. I save three word 97 copies of all my documents. One in English, one in classical Greek, and one in in hieroglyphics.

  8. dvdisaster anyone? by MoFoQ · · Score: 4, Informative

    dvdisaster is what I use now...both on CDs and DVDs (it also supports dual-layer)

    think of it as a way to embed par2 (parity) onto a disc (it requires an ISO image that you create in your favorite authoring software, then after it's done embedding the parity in it, you can burn it)

    alternately, you can create a separate recovery data which you can store on backup tapes or hard drives or on another disc, etc.

  9. Buy Quality Blanks!!! by the+eric+conspiracy · · Score: 4, Insightful

    "Studies" like this are useless if they don't include information from the codes off the CD's (not the label on the box!) as to who the manufacturer is.

    Get the Taiyo Yuden and MAM-A Gold blanks and you won't have issues like this.

    Also please read the Wikipedia article on CD-ROMs, and expecially the references. You WILL end up with better burns if you do.

    1. Re:Buy Quality Blanks!!! by analogue_guy · · Score: 4, Informative

      Mam-a is not what it used to be.

      Buy Taiyo Yuden or Falcon.

    2. Re:Buy Quality Blanks!!! by cdrguru · · Score: 4, Interesting

      The "codes" on a CD-R that indicate the manufactuer are pretty much meaningless. Why? Because they are often the code assigned to the manufacturer of the stamper.

      Stampers are hard to make and require a cleanroom, lots of chemicals and skilled people. After you have a stamper, you put it into a machine and any idiot can turn out CD-Rs. So plenty of manufacturers with the cleanroom facilities and the knowledgeable staff sell stampers. So you have some place like Ritek that will sell anyone stampers. Now Wong's Cheaper Discs buys up some stampers from Ritek and starts turning out discs.

      Since Wong's Cheaper Discs are a few cents less than anyone else's that week, Memorex and lots of other folks buy up discs from Wong's. Sadly for Ritek, all the discs from Wong's have the manufacturer code from Ritek. Now someone from Ritek might be able to tell you that these discs were not actually made by Ritek, but it is going to take someone familiar with their processes to tell you that. It is not obvious.

      So the manufacturer codes on discs are pretty useless. About the only thing you can do is buy discs from reputable manufacturers where you actually know who the manufacturer is.

  10. My experiences with CD-Rs - some good, some not by PatMcGee · · Score: 5, Interesting

    I recently tried reading a bunch of audio CD-Rs burned between 2003 to 2007. I used Exact Audio Copy on a Toshiba drive. I was able to get error-free reads from about half the disks recorded in 2003; about 3/4 of the ones from 2004, and from all the ones recorded after that. On the early ones that worked, sometimes EAC took a couple of hours to do the reads, which means it was doing a lot of retries. On the later ones, the transfers were mostly just a few minutes. On the ones that reported less than 100%, sometimes EAC spent 50-60 hours trying.

    For the disks that I could not get 100% reads on from the Toshiba drive, I tried them in several other computers using a variety of programs. Mostly I was not able to get results as good as EAC on the Toshiba drive. I tried two Mac Mini's using Max and an old Mac G3 using cdparanoia from the command line, and got lots of failures. Then I tried Max on my MacBook and they all read perfectly. Go figure.

    I theorize that one reason the disks had errors was that they were labeled using a Sharpie. According to the NIST report on CD-R failures (nvl.nist.gov/pub/nistpubs/jres/109/5/j95sla.pdf), this is a really, really bad idea. Since I read that report, I've been adamant about using only water-based markers on CDs and DVDs.

    1. Re:My experiences with CD-Rs - some good, some not by PatMcGee · · Score: 4, Informative

      You're right; sorry. Try this one: http://www.itl.nist.gov/iad/894.05/docs/CDandDVDCareandHandlingGuide.pdf, looking at pages 21-22. Also see the notes about adhesive labels on page 23. They're also a no-no. Pat

  11. CD-Rs Design is Flawed. DVD-R More Reliable. by Ron+Bennett · · Score: 4, Interesting

    CD-Rs design is very flawed in that the recording layer is near the surface as opposed to being well protected in the middle, as it is in DVD-Rs.

    I've had numerous CD-Rs that were well cared for get flaky after a year or so; data is usually still there, but requires use of various recovery tools.

    DVD-Rs have been very reliable in comparison - never had a problem.

    With that said, what I do for archival data is use two different brands of DVD-R *plus*, when possible, save two, sometimes even three, duplicate copies of the data on the same DVD-R. That way I have two to as many as six copies of the data, often including dups on the same DVD-R allowing for faster, more convenient recovery.

    Ron

  12. how to get good burn quality by analogue_guy · · Score: 5, Informative

    I burn thousands of CDs and DVDs per week and here are some tips

      - use pro grade media from Taiyo Yuden (Made in Japan) or Falcon (Made in UAE). Verbatim still makes some good media but you have to know what to look for (Datalife Plus) because they also buy cheap media and rebrand it.
      - burn cd-r at 16 or 24x. 32x is ok for short-term use. Even the best discs will fail if you burn at maximum speed.
      - burn dvd-r at 8x
      - if you must burn dvd-r at 16x, test your quality regularly for signs of failure.

    how to test the quality:

      - Plextor made good drives bundled with Plextools testing software but they are no longer making their own drives. For a replacement to Plextools, see Opti Drive Control at cdspeed2000.com

  13. Re:doubtful by Anpheus · · Score: 4, Funny

    I save mine in Arial, Times New Roman and Wingdings.

    Is this sufficient?

  14. 4 CD, Raid 5. by evilviper · · Score: 5, Informative

    I used-to make 2 CDs of every ISO, until I figured out how best to utilize PAR2.

    PAR2 calculates parity information on a set of files, and writes out a file which can be used in the event that any of the files is damaged. This is quite similar to RAID-5, but PAR2 is more robust, and works on any files, not just equally sized hard drives.

    Though it's no help on DVDs, CDs work GREAT with PAR2, because of their two different methods of recording. Mode 1, as all regular files are stored, reduces the amount of space available by about 12.5%, using that space for additional error correction data. Audio CDs, and Video CDs, where a single bit error isn't nearly as critical, are recorded in Mode 2, with substantially reduced error correction, but about 100MBs more usable space available.

    PAR2 is similarly resilient to errors, so it can safely be used with Mode 2. This allows much more space for the parity information, and the opportunity to be safe against, and correct, respectively more damage to a disk.

    Specifically, I recomend a 4-disk parity set. You fill 3 CDs full of data, and tell PAR2 to calculate 37% recovery data on those files. The first 33.334% allows you to RECOVER THE DATA FROM ONE COMPLETELY LOST CD, no matter which of the 3 it is. That still leaves you with a margin of 3.667%, so those two CDs you DO have, can have a few bad sectors as well, and all the data from the lost CD, as well as undamaged versions of the files on the two lightly damaged CDs can be recovered. Alternatively, if you DON'T lose an entire CD, all three (4 actually) CDs can have numerous bad sectors, in any distribution, up to a total of 37% of all the discs, and pristine data can still be recovered.

    The method to do all this is quite simple. Just run the par2create command, telling it to create 37% recovery information. Then take the resulting BASENAME.Par2+??????? file, and create a CUE file, describing a CD with a single track across the whole CD, with the PAR2 file as the supposed audio data. eg.:

    FILE "par2.bin" BINARY
        TRACK 01 MODE2/2352
            FLAGS DCP
            INDEX 01 00:00:00
        TRACK 02 MODE2/2352
            FLAGS DCP
            INDEX 00 00:04:00
            INDEX 01 00:06:00

    Now, any CD recording software that understands CUE files will happily record this to disc. On Unix systems, you can choose cdrecord, or cdrdao.

    Now, like regular audio CDs and Video CDs, you can't just use or copy this data off the disc like a normal file on a CD. There are programs for converting VCDs into regular files, something like dat2mpeg, but I prefer a more generalized tool that can do the job:

        mplayer vcd://2 -dumpstream -dumpfile par2.bin

    You'll note that checksums of the file and the data on disk don't quite match... This is because, in mode2, data MUST be padded to the block size. PAR2 files are fine with it, and the padding is silently discarded.

    Something like DD_RESCUE to copy the (normal) files off the other CDs, in the event of damage, is probably necessary as well. Then, once you've got 3CDs worth of data (eg. 700MB CDs x 3 = 2100MBytes) you can run par2recover and all with be repaired, like magic.

    The only footnote being that calculating the parity information isn't fast, so this method is probably slower than just recording 2 copies of every CD. Also, if you lose more than 37% of the data across all the discs, the error-free originals can't be recovered. However, I consider it more reliable than duplicate discs, if only because the odds of an error on the same sector of two discs (or one disc lost, and the backup with a few errors), seems more likely than 37% of the discs being damaged beyond hope. And as an added bonus, you save 1/3rd on your CD-R purchases.

    --
    Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
  15. 50,000 year retention time by MillionthMonkey · · Score: 5, Funny

    Just broadcast your illegal movies and ugly photos toward a large, massive body so that the signals intersect with the earth again later after traveling along space-time geodesics. You can use Sagittarius A* (black hole at the center of the galaxy) for this, but you have to remember to be there to record your 50,000 year old backup once it arrives, because it's not like the hole is your bitch.

  16. Re:doubtful by plover · · Score: 4, Funny

    30 years ago I punched my programs on "archival quality" punch cards. They weren't like regular cardboard cards, they had a higher rag content that would assure they'd retain their shape longer with less chance of bending.

    --
    John
  17. re: recording speeds also probably matter by King_TJ · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Back in the earlier days of CDR, a "high speed recorder" was recording at a whopping 4x or so. As drive recording speeds increased, the CDRs rated for those higher speeds had to become more responsive to the laser hitting it for a shorter period of time. How do you accomplish that? One big way was spreading the dye out in a thinner layer. That's likely to have a negative effect on longevity.